mbwilson111
Headphoneus Supremus
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I am confused because someone said it is $249
1MORE H1707 Triple-Driver Over Ear
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I am confused because someone said it is $249
waynes world
Headphoneus Supremus
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It might compete well with Audeze Mobius and Beyerdynamic Amiron Wireless. This model (which I am itching to get and may soon!) is wonderful... except that portable form factor just begs for wireless in today's world, no?Nonetheless, there's always Bluetooth receivers for now....
Bluetooth 1More Triple Driver's would be sweet. In lieu of that though, the Radsone ES100 is a wonderful bluetooth receiver, but I'm not sure if it could drive the Triple Driver's appropriately.
Has anyone tried the 1More Triple Driver's with the ES100?
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Are FB1 and you not talking about this product? Is Amazon selling "used or fake" MK801 as new then?
https://www.amazon.com/1MORE-MK801-...F8&qid=1526599467&sr=8-3&keywords=1more+mk801
My bad, noise isolating not cancelling.
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FullBright1
Headphoneus Supremus
Geared4me....
You're not confused.
My Typo..<
Duly corrected.
Thx.
And, they are due to arrive to me 5-18.
So, in that case, and as long as there is not a QC issue, i'll post their reality check sooner rather then later.
I have not read any reviews, here or out there, so, im not already preprogrammed to worry about their tizzy trebles or missing low end.
I basically have no idea what to expect, and thats a good thing if im going to post a modest review .
well then, i guess its music time.......
Good, glad you agree......
Pergolesi, this piece, is just ..........ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh.
And Jimmy Wahlsteen,..... Hes my favorite "contemporary" Finger-style Steel String Player.
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Slater
Headphoneus Supremus
Fellow H1707 fans, I just finished a mod that some of you may be interested in.
This one doesn't mod anything sound related, but rather something that has bothered me since the very 1st time I saw pictures of the H1707 - the grille. To me it looks like a gaudy aftermarket car rim. I know 1More was trying to be "bold" with the design (as well as protect the plexiglass window), and I applaud them for the effort. But it just never did anything for me, and I prefer a more traditional look. So I thought it was time to go ahead and fix that.
I have always thought the Grado grilles were sexy as heck, so I decided to give the H1707 the same treatment. The H1707 still remains a closed design however - I left the plexiglass window 100% intact despite it looking like an open design. The grilles are purely a cosmetic mod.
I actually did 2 different grille configurations:
1. My silver H1707 received a stainless steel grille. The material cost me under $3usd, and is available in a variety of sizes (ie how fine or coarse the mesh is). The stainless mesh comes as a sheet, so it has to be cut to the proper size/shape.
2. The gold H1707 I gave my brother received a more traditional/subdued black grille (which he thought better offset the flashier gold/copper color). Those grilles cost under $2usd, and come ready-to-go (ie drop right in), as they are made for a 1" tweeter. It's the same grilles I've used on countless other headphone mods (open-converted Philips SHL3300, Bluedio T2, Meizu HD50, and Akai Project 50X).
There is a recess machined into the back side of the stock trim ring, and it is important to make sure whatever grille material is used fits unto the recess. The trim ring must sit flush against the plexiglass window to ensure it seals properly.
So without further ado (click photos for larger version):
The before shot (or as I call it, "rollin' on dubs"):
Removing the grilles:
Delete the center 'wheel' section:
Grille version #1 (Gold H1707 and black grille):
Grille version #2 (Silver H1707 w/stainless 'Grado' grilles. Now that's what I'm talking about!!):
So what's it look like when you reverse the grille configurations?
Silver H1707 w/black grille:
Gold H1707 w/stainless 'Grado' grilles (damn that looks nice too!):
Finally, either grille can be painted any color of the rainbow. I may paint the stainless grilles gunmetal or black, making it look like the Fidelio X2. Or maybe a bronze or copper color would look nice too.
Anyways, enjoy!
This one doesn't mod anything sound related, but rather something that has bothered me since the very 1st time I saw pictures of the H1707 - the grille. To me it looks like a gaudy aftermarket car rim. I know 1More was trying to be "bold" with the design (as well as protect the plexiglass window), and I applaud them for the effort. But it just never did anything for me, and I prefer a more traditional look. So I thought it was time to go ahead and fix that.
I have always thought the Grado grilles were sexy as heck, so I decided to give the H1707 the same treatment. The H1707 still remains a closed design however - I left the plexiglass window 100% intact despite it looking like an open design. The grilles are purely a cosmetic mod.
I actually did 2 different grille configurations:
1. My silver H1707 received a stainless steel grille. The material cost me under $3usd, and is available in a variety of sizes (ie how fine or coarse the mesh is). The stainless mesh comes as a sheet, so it has to be cut to the proper size/shape.
2. The gold H1707 I gave my brother received a more traditional/subdued black grille (which he thought better offset the flashier gold/copper color). Those grilles cost under $2usd, and come ready-to-go (ie drop right in), as they are made for a 1" tweeter. It's the same grilles I've used on countless other headphone mods (open-converted Philips SHL3300, Bluedio T2, Meizu HD50, and Akai Project 50X).
There is a recess machined into the back side of the stock trim ring, and it is important to make sure whatever grille material is used fits unto the recess. The trim ring must sit flush against the plexiglass window to ensure it seals properly.
So without further ado (click photos for larger version):
The before shot (or as I call it, "rollin' on dubs"):
Removing the grilles:
Delete the center 'wheel' section:
Grille version #1 (Gold H1707 and black grille):
Grille version #2 (Silver H1707 w/stainless 'Grado' grilles. Now that's what I'm talking about!!):
So what's it look like when you reverse the grille configurations?
Silver H1707 w/black grille:
Gold H1707 w/stainless 'Grado' grilles (damn that looks nice too!):
Finally, either grille can be painted any color of the rainbow. I may paint the stainless grilles gunmetal or black, making it look like the Fidelio X2. Or maybe a bronze or copper color would look nice too.
Anyways, enjoy!
Attachments
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Slater
Headphoneus Supremus
As @mbwilson111 said, they are easy to drive.
I think that irritating reviewer guy just likes throwing around the fact that he has all of the fancy amps and room full of gear, as he comes across as quite full of himself (granted I don't know the guy, I'm just going by his video).
Anyway, he makes it out like the H1707 sounds like they are garbage without a powerful amp. Uhh, sorry don't think so. I use them with my xduo X3, iPhone SE, Rockboxed Sandisk Clip+, iPod Classic, and right out of my crappy little Chromebook jusssst fine.
Sure, like 90% of headphones, if you amp them they sound even better (duh no shock there). And obviously they'll certainly go much louder with amping (which that reviewer alluded to, as he obviously cranks the snot out of the volume). I use mine amped, but only when I'm at home. When I'm out and about, they run right from my phone 90% of the time. And my brother runs his gold pair from his iPhone 8, and absolutely raves about the sound.
So in summary, the H1707s:
1. are easy to drive
2. do not require amping for great sound
3. can be used with an amp for even better sound (maybe 5% improvement)
If I wanted to improve the sound, and I had my choice between amping them or doing the foam mod (https://www.head-fi.org/threads/1more-h1707-triple-driver-over-ear.849824/page-15#post-14221717), I would do the foam mod without a doubt. That provides a significant upgrade in sound, whereas amping provides a small step up in sound.
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Nice work Slater! I can't wait to see what you can do with the pads.
Slater
Headphoneus Supremus
Thanks friend.
Pads are next up for this beast (although I do have some other projects before the pads). So far though, I'm pleased with the mods. It's really shaping up to be one of my favorite cans.
waynes world
Headphoneus Supremus
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You points are compelling... me to want the triple drivers even more lol! Thanks. Btw I saw your mod post before, and I appreciate how nicely you laid it all out. I think that even I could handle those mods!
Ok, now all I have to do is convince myself that I need another pair of headphones to hide from the rest of my family (who think I'm crazy enough as it is!).
Slater
Headphoneus Supremus
OK, so I made time to bust out 4 pad mods. This should give everyone a number of desirable options for this awesome headphone
Note that I'm not addressing any sound changes with any of these pads mods. Obviously, any time you change pads from stock, you risk changing the sound. I will mention that I liked the sound with the HM5 pleather and 100mm round pleather pads the best, as they sounded almost identical to stock (except with a healthy increase in soundstage width). However, those impressions are subject to change, as I only initially spent about 30-60 minutes with each pad.
Also note that with all 3 of these options, the stock storage case no longer works. However, you can still fold the headphones fine no matter which pad option you choose.
Basically, you have (4) larger pad options for the H1707:
The 90mm round pads fit perfectly, like it could have come that way stock. The 95x80mm ovals also fit perfectly, it is just a little taller than wider (due to the oval shape). The HM5/Senitek pads also work fine using this method, but they are just a tiny bit loose (ie you can spin the pads). They are not so loose that they don't seal, nor are they in danger of falling off.
Here's a few photos (click for larger views). Sorry I didn't take any photos of the 95x80mm oval pads.
90mm round pleather pads:
HM5/Senitek (these are Senitek fabric pads):
===========================================================
If you want to use larger pads, such as 100mm or 105mm pads, you will have to do this additional mod 1st.
You can also use this mod if you want the HM5/Senitek pads to fit tightly, however I recommend 1st trying the HM5 pad using the 'normal' method at the very top of this post. If you can tolerate the tiny amount of looseness, stick with that. If it really bothers you, then continue with this modified method.
1. Obtain insulating foam tape (called Armaflex), available at Home Depot and most hardware stores (in the plumbing section). I use it for headphone modding (dampening cups for example). Make sure it's 1/8" stick and 2" wide (it comes in 30 foot rolls).
2. Cut a 10.5" piece of foam tape, and then cut the strip down the center (so you end up with 2 strips, each 1" wide and 10.5" long). Now cut 1 of the strips in half again, so you end up with 2 strips, each 1/2" wide. These are the strips you will be using for the mod (ie the 2 1/2" wide strips).
3. Remove the backing paper from the foam tape and carefully center it using the polished aluminum section in the earcup as a centering guide, like in the below photo. (Note that the photo below shows a 1" wide strip - yours will be thinner ie 1/2"):
4. Go around the circumference of the ear cup, until the whole 10.5" foam piece is attached. (Note that the photo below shows a 1" wide strip - yours will be thinner ie 1/2"):
5. Now, gently fold over each side of the foam tape, sticking it to both sides of the earcup. Smooth out any wrinkles as you go along. In other words, because the strip is 1/2" wide, you are folding 0.25" of the strip over each side of the ear cup. (Note the photos below have a 1" wide strip - your strips will be thinner and will cover much less of the headphone):
6. Now simply attach the 100mm, 105mm, or HM5/Senitek pads. (If you're using HM5/Senitek pads, you'll notice it fits much tighter). Here's 100mm round pads using the foam method:
If you ever want to remove the insulation tape, just peel it off and remove the adhesive residue by rubbing it off by rubbing with your fingers (and using a gentle adhesive remover such as Goo Gone and soft cloth to clean up the remainder of the residue).
Enjoy!
Note that I'm not addressing any sound changes with any of these pads mods. Obviously, any time you change pads from stock, you risk changing the sound. I will mention that I liked the sound with the HM5 pleather and 100mm round pleather pads the best, as they sounded almost identical to stock (except with a healthy increase in soundstage width). However, those impressions are subject to change, as I only initially spent about 30-60 minutes with each pad.
Also note that with all 3 of these options, the stock storage case no longer works. However, you can still fold the headphones fine no matter which pad option you choose.
Basically, you have (4) larger pad options for the H1707:
- 90mm round pads. Only 10mm larger diameter than stock, but it could be all you need to get the pressure off your ears.
- Brainwavz HM5/Senitek oval pads (of course I had to make these work, since we ALL have some of those LOL). These are the biggest and most generously-sized pads.
- 95x80mm oval pads, as used on the Audio Technica AT-M40, M40X, M50, and M50X. Be careful when buying pads for this though, as some are 110x80mm and advertised as "AT-M50 pads". Make sure you get 95x80mm. These are personally my favorite option, and I use this size pads on other modded cans. They are juuust big enough to be fully over ear for average size ears (due to their oval shape), yet still small and compact vs larger pads like the HM5.
- 100mm or 105mm round pads. This requires an additional mod (the foam tape method at the very bottom of this post).
The 90mm round pads fit perfectly, like it could have come that way stock. The 95x80mm ovals also fit perfectly, it is just a little taller than wider (due to the oval shape). The HM5/Senitek pads also work fine using this method, but they are just a tiny bit loose (ie you can spin the pads). They are not so loose that they don't seal, nor are they in danger of falling off.
Here's a few photos (click for larger views). Sorry I didn't take any photos of the 95x80mm oval pads.
90mm round pleather pads:
HM5/Senitek (these are Senitek fabric pads):
===========================================================
If you want to use larger pads, such as 100mm or 105mm pads, you will have to do this additional mod 1st.
You can also use this mod if you want the HM5/Senitek pads to fit tightly, however I recommend 1st trying the HM5 pad using the 'normal' method at the very top of this post. If you can tolerate the tiny amount of looseness, stick with that. If it really bothers you, then continue with this modified method.
1. Obtain insulating foam tape (called Armaflex), available at Home Depot and most hardware stores (in the plumbing section). I use it for headphone modding (dampening cups for example). Make sure it's 1/8" stick and 2" wide (it comes in 30 foot rolls).
2. Cut a 10.5" piece of foam tape, and then cut the strip down the center (so you end up with 2 strips, each 1" wide and 10.5" long). Now cut 1 of the strips in half again, so you end up with 2 strips, each 1/2" wide. These are the strips you will be using for the mod (ie the 2 1/2" wide strips).
3. Remove the backing paper from the foam tape and carefully center it using the polished aluminum section in the earcup as a centering guide, like in the below photo. (Note that the photo below shows a 1" wide strip - yours will be thinner ie 1/2"):
4. Go around the circumference of the ear cup, until the whole 10.5" foam piece is attached. (Note that the photo below shows a 1" wide strip - yours will be thinner ie 1/2"):
5. Now, gently fold over each side of the foam tape, sticking it to both sides of the earcup. Smooth out any wrinkles as you go along. In other words, because the strip is 1/2" wide, you are folding 0.25" of the strip over each side of the ear cup. (Note the photos below have a 1" wide strip - your strips will be thinner and will cover much less of the headphone):
6. Now simply attach the 100mm, 105mm, or HM5/Senitek pads. (If you're using HM5/Senitek pads, you'll notice it fits much tighter). Here's 100mm round pads using the foam method:
If you ever want to remove the insulation tape, just peel it off and remove the adhesive residue by rubbing it off by rubbing with your fingers (and using a gentle adhesive remover such as Goo Gone and soft cloth to clean up the remainder of the residue).
Enjoy!
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It was designed in partnership with Maserati and is modeled after their "Astro" rims, as I understand it.
Slater
Headphoneus Supremus
Wow, that's an interesting nugget of info. Thanks for the info.
I can totally respect that, being a car guy nut myself (I used to own businesses designing/manufacturing aftermarket racing parts and upgrades). It's just not my cup of tea though, and if I owned a Maserati, the Astro rims (assuming they look like that) would be the 1st things to go.
I have a thing for open headphones, and I've been looking for a reason use the Grado style mesh (and Fidelio X2) mesh on a headphone.
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AudiophileAri
Sponsor: Audeze
Member of the Trade: 1MORE, HELM Audio
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Nothatso is correct. Surprisingly accurate actually. The first MP run was branded under Maserati and went to new owners of their roadster as a gift .
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