Quote: Originally Posted by tomb ((15V x 0.9) x 1.414) - 1.4V = 17.69V (this assumes adequate cap smoothing, however) E=IT/C Use the current drawn from the supply (I) to estimate the voltage ripple (E, to subtract from his 17.69V figure) based on the current draw(i) and cap...

Quote: Originally Posted by headphonejunkie It was a military school back in the 80's. I suppose that would not go over very good nowadays.Of course, it wasn't written on a blackboard or anything like that. It was just passed by word of mouth.Let me just take back the school thing and...

Quote: Originally Posted by philodox EDIT: My amp seems to be immune to any of this for what it is worth. Sounds the same straight out of the wall as it does out of my power conditioner. I am so happy with how it sounds that I haven't bothered trying any other power cords, but I may do...

Quote: Originally Posted by philodox Sorry, but it is common knowledge that switching power supplies feed noise back on to power lines. Do you really need me to explain that to you? Why did you choose to use a switching power supply? Using a different power cable seems to be the...

Quote: Originally Posted by TzeYang Fancy F'ing Solder Pic We cannot be friends

Quote: Originally Posted by philodox Sure do, what would you like to know? Well, for starters you could throw some ideas out there on how noise on the power supply makes it's way from the mains line to your headphones. I mean after all, there's a ~110V 60Hz "sine" wave going in...

I'd just like to throw in my two cents that if we're talking ARM architecture and BGA's, the Y in DIY means "YOURSELF". You're not gonna find a lot of existing designs and discussion to help you. It's really gonna be a project from scratch. I just did a quick and dirty project with an...

Not knowing anything about your particular unit, I'd suggest unplugging it, taking it apart and finding the source switch (FM/AM/TAPE/CD/OFF). See if there are twice as many leads going to the switch as options. This would indicate L/R signals for each, at which point you could use an ohmmeter...

Post a pic of the underside of that first board! That's where we see your real work. Any schmuck can put parts on a board, how the connections are routed is another story Everything in my signature is on perf boards at the moment, it takes up about .66 cubic feet of space with all the...

For those of you debating the use of tube equipement in recording, I direct you to the Journal of the Audio Engineering Society, May 1973 Volume 23 number 24 : "Tubes Versus Transistors--Is There an Audible Difference?". The abstract: "Engineers and musicians have long debated the question...

Quote: Originally Posted by joneeboi I remember hearing a story of a guy salvaging computers in a dumpster who got severely shocked by capacitors sitting in one of the computers that [was] over 10 years old. In class, they told us to discharge any caps with a resistor before working...

You could go into the depth to measure the output impedance of your source, and input impedance of your amp, and create a divider network to achieve the desired attenuation while maintaining efficiency for both parts, but that's 2nd to 3rd year engineering work. I would personally use a...

I'm interested if the people who improve their sound with fancy power cables understand how the power supply in their device ACTUALLY works?

Quote: Originally Posted by holland A heat gun is another, but I've only heard about this and never used it. This is by far the easiest way to remove parts from a board. Sometimes you may need a board heater if it has a large groundplane connected to the part, though. And with...

The data sheet says 3V on the plus supply, sounds like you're doing well. I need an OPA548, where did you find yours?

I could only suggest that where c2 and r2 meet at a right angle, you might want to move them further apart so as to have more space to solder that right side of the cap. Also, is the silk screen for your 220uf caps backwords on one of them? I'm guessing in the populated rendering that the...

Quote: Originally Posted by DrBenway Even if you can't tell the difference, if you one day move up to higher resolution equipment, that difference may become apparant, perhaps painfully so. I don't know why anyone bothered to say anything after this. SR225's, and a very detailed...

Having already learned to solder, I would have recommended the next step before this beast should have been to build a mint or similar op-amp based design on a perf-board. Once you can make that sound decent, then you could DEFINITELY solder parts onto a PCB well. Also, did you do any...

Quote: Originally Posted by Tachikoma I think most of the bass in these songs is in the midbass range, so the K1Ks should do fine I think your insight is what the original question was missing that spawned the flames. Asking for headphones for Nelly sounds like "i like nelly...

I dont think any of these examples are more dumb than suing Apple over hearing loss. HONESTLY, it has to be atleast uncomfortable to cause noticeable damage, unless this guys' iPods been playing into his head for MONTHS on end, 24/7. I'm going to sue my LCD monitor manufacturer because...

So, i was watching "Submarine : hidden hunter" on the Discovery channel, and the sonar operator on a Swedish submarine was <i>definately</i> wearing HD-580's.

Quote: Originally Posted by ATAT This might help http://www.epanorama.net/documents/l...ghtdimmer.html at a glance, that sounds like you think i should alter the phase of the current, instead of the amplitude of the voltage?

I have enough knowledge to work out the details myself, but what exactly would i use for the following operation? I want to use and audio signal for control (either headphone or line level) to control the amplitude of a 120V signal, in this instance for lights). I can work out the details...

Quote: Originally Posted by tangent R2 isn't strictly necessary in that sense. If you left it out, the RC time constant would be the C times the input impedance of the op-amp. All R2 is doing here is lowering the input impedance to the op-amp, and providing a DC path to ground...

I've found that after a few months of use, the finish starts to wear off of the tins, but for that price, you can always have a new one