I say - fire them up and take a listen.  They look like a very cool set of headphones, and it's always neat to see vintage electrostat threads pop up.

Really, the only issue I'm having is the occasional lock-up, and that's a known issue with driver compatibility and the game I'm playing.  I'm really more interested in getting a better digital transport via sound card, while still maintaining the speaker and mic capabilities I have right now.

For an electrical Neanderthal like myself, can you explain the difference in sending a signal via a voltage-based interface, compared to a current-based?  How does the conversion to current from voltage, in relation to this method of signal transfer, work?   Quote:    

Latest version for Win7 64-bit installed...if I recall right, its a couple months old now.

Just to hop back and clarify a bit (bad wording on my part) - I don't think the stock tubes have a cut-off of the lows and highs (re-reading what I wrote, that's what it seems like I was saying to me), but rather they're not quite as distinct and controlled with the JJs as they are with some NOS...

Using normal speakers for gaming, do you notice a reduction of sound when going from listening to music to playing a game, without adjusting the volume at all?  Or is it just relegated to happening when you use your headphones?

Definitely wouldn't max the Lyr's volume - given its output capability, there's a not-insignificant danger of accidentally smoking your headphones, ears, or both if someone inadvertently bumps the pre-amp volume while you're listening to music.   For pre-amping, I normally adjust the level...

I'd be using foobar, which (I'm assuming) would allow me to manually select the S/PDIF out on the Xonar for music playback, while leaving my Windows default as the X-Fi, similar to how I'd select an external DAC connected to my computer via USB in foobar, while leaving my sound card the default...

Ah.  With the HD650s, I'd definitely look at swapping the DAC first, and then the amp later on down the road.  Of course, that's assuming you're not going to be perfectly happy with the setup you have now when you plug the HD650 into it.  Things can always be improved, but a lot of the time they...

Hah, I didn't read the whole thing, but I bet that got some "interesting" responses from the arf-commers.   Course, if LaRue came out with an optics mount that promised fewer FTEs, it would be the new trend of the month over there.  Every community has its manias.   Quote:    

With AD700s?  Neither really represent an obstacle.  If I had to upgrade one or the other, though, it would be the DAC - I'd sell the V-DAC and the USB cable, and put the money towards a better multi-input DAC and go optical. 

Bit of a crazy thought, and I'm not sure it would work, but...   Would it be possible to use two audio cards in the same computer?  The reason I ask is because I have an X-Fi Titanium that I currently use for my normal speaker-out to my Z-5500s, and mic in for gaming, as well as for the...

The ERC-2 is pretty nice, but unfortunately a bit out of my price range right now.  Ended up buying a Marantz CD5004 from the For Sale section today; good timing, I guess.

Ouch!  The SR80i here in the US is something like $85 on Amazon.   I'm a headbanger myself, but I could never really get into Grado - they were just a little too "right there" for me.  Great if you're listening to a live album and want to imagine yourself 10' from the stage, but they're a...

Heh, yeah.  The wonderful thing about LCD-2s is that they have impressive low-end extension and impact, but the bass is also extremely transparent.  I'm not sure how well Adire Audio is known around here, but they had a couple subs, especially the Brahma, that produced some of the most...

I thought the MS-1 was just the "international" version of the SR60i/SR80i, since Grado has some sort of unrequited fear of selling their normal headphones overseas for reasonable prices?   Quote:   I honestly couldn't tell you what the difference is; the SR80i is supposed to be...

If you can go up a bit, the SR80i might be a good choice instead of the SR60i.  You might check out the Ultrasone HFI-780 if you like pronounced highs and a set of headphones that do well with rock and metal.

Especially considering two of the highly-anticipated reference-level tube amps, the Liquid Fire and Eddie Current Super 7, are priced at a significantly lower level, and the BHSE, Zana Deux, and Beta22 are all markedly lower.   Is the new Woo amp going to be more of a "statement amp", given...

They were actually one of the most recommended headphones for metal a couple years back.  I still think they do a great job with most of it, the exception being some Southern/stoner metal like Clutch.   Quote:    

HFI-780: 4 years, used primarily at work and while traveling on planes.  Never had any issues at all with them; they're in semi-retirement now as. LCD2: about two months, only use them at my desk at home.  No problems with them so far. SRH-840: a week, primarily work phones, to use both at...

Right but unless you have DC riding on the AC, doesn't the transformer (assuming the equipment has a good transformer) basically eliminate the AC noise?  Even if it doesn't, aren't inductors common in most gear to remove high-frequency noise that might be riding on the AC?   I just don't see...

I didn't like mine, which is why I sold them; although I do wish I had kept my 601s.   Quote:    

The 702s would be a definite upgrade over the 240S, although they do have very low bass levels.  There's adequate bass impact with the right amp, but there's not a whole lot of extension.   I sold my 702s recently for ~$185; they'll normally go from $160 to $220 depending on the condition...

"Liquid midrange" refers to very smooth mids, rather than recessed or grainy mids.  Think female vocals - if a headphone can accurately portray throaty, velvet female vocals, they likely have a "liquid" midrange.  A lot of lower-priced cans have a metallic or thin midrange, which is pretty much...

I think ebay is the only place to order them, but the seller "coolfungadget" is the actual manufacturer from what I've read in threads discussing the D100, and has a 100% rating on ebay.   http://cgi.ebay.com/Yulong-D100-ASRC-DAC-/350429616134?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51973b9806