I built a mini3 more than a few months ago... and just need some verification on 2 of capacitors and their pos/neg. C2 solid dipped tantalum capaictor This has a strip across the top and then bends at a right angle down, toward one leg. The legs are the same length... I know the strip going...

Quote: Originally Posted by Mullet Sounds good. These are the liners right? http://bit.ly/9Oo3Ie Yes, those are the ones... wow, expensive! I had some lying around... I can certainly understand going a more cheaper route. Electrical/duct tape are a much cheaper alternative...

Thanks MisterX... I know, I know... Beat me to the punch, I see them on Monoprice. Thanks to you both for answering my questions!

Quote: Originally Posted by amb If you mean config E (S/PDIF only), yes. Exactly what I meant... The analog output is a 3.5mm stereo phone jack, correct? Do they sell a male 3.5mm stereo phone jack to 2 wire (White/Red) RCA jack wire?

Thanks AMB! I guess I'll be placing another order to you soon then... I was thinking that option E of u2 is all that I needed?

It was suggested from a question I posted in the main DIY area, that the y1 would fit my needs. Here is my original post: With summer coming, I bought myself a pair of Polk Atrium 60 outdoor speakers. The plan was to hook them up to my Onkyo SR-606 stereo, via it's Zone 2 area. I also have...

I've use thin black foam liners for upright tool boxes from Sears... used double sided tape to keep the foam in place. Once you put the LED in place, such as using one of those mountings, glue it into place from inside the tin.

I was hoping someone can point me to some DYI (or even kit) DACs... I was looking at the y1 but I'm not sure it would work. I'm not driving speakers directly with the DAC but the analog output of the DAC would go to a stereo/reciever. I would think then, that the y1 would work. Can someone...

Hello all, Has been awhile since I've lurked here, but I have a new project for myself. With summer coming, I bought myself a pair of Polk Atrium 60 outdoor speakers. The plan was to hook them up to my Onkyo SR-606 stereo, via it's Zone 2 area. I also have my HTPC hooked up to that...

If it is a socket, I believe you also have to be aware of the orientation of the new opamp when you install it. Not sure if all sockets are the same, but if you put in the opamp in the wrong orientation, you could crap something out. Experts, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Hey guys, I just wanted to let you know that I finally got my new opamp in from Digi-Key, as I also ordered the Chip Quick smd remover from them. First, let me say that the Chip Quick is well worth the money. I knew it was going to be a pain getting opamp off, especially with the pcb fully...

Quote: Originally Posted by MisterX http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/sti...-mini3-422899/ Maybe reading "Mizu's" thread from the other day will help you sort it out? Thanks MisterX, I knew I read that somewhere, on the Chip Quik. Since this was my second time doing Mini3...

Seems my AD8397ARDZ opamp is bad in my new Mini3 assembly. While I would normally order these from Amb, I have other stuff to order from DigiKey and would like to keep shipping costs low. So, I want to order the AD8397ARDZ opamp from DigiKey. I just want to make sure I'm ordering the...

Before I go and order more opamps from Amb, anyone have other suggestions? Or is it pretty much looking like the AD8397 opamp is fried/defective? If so, I know that removing these is a pain, as that is what I've read. Can anyone point me to a decent method of removing them without ruining...

I've reflowed pretty much everything. I've even tried to reflow the pins on AD8397. Same problem...

How do the opamps look? http://members.cox.net/aschmeer/DSCN0948x.jpg

Here are some pics... let me know if you need more: http://members.cox.net/aschmeer/DSCN0943x.jpg http://members.cox.net/aschmeer/DSCN0945x.jpg

Quote: Originally Posted by MisterX Yep. The OPA690 is the ground channel op-amp. The AD8397 is the left and right channel op-amp. The DC offset check is a very rudimentary way to ensure each op-amp is functioning as intended. Do you have a high rez photo of the top side of the...

Quote: Originally Posted by ShinyFalcon Google AD8397 and you'll find analogdevice's page on the opamp. Funny, exactly where I found it! Thanks!

Quote: Originally Posted by ShinyFalcon It can be possible that it's just bad soldering. Your AD8397 is basically half working. We should focus on the parts with the L (like R1L, L1L (the ferrite cylinder bead), etc). Focus on AD8397's pin 5, 6, and 7 as well. Is there a pin...

So testing IG & OG is testing DC offset for the OPA690ID? IG & OL and IG & OR is testing DC offset for the AD8397? I appologize foe the questions... I am trying to learn. MisterX, does my testing show the the AD8397 opamp is crispy fried? Or is still possible that I have bad soldering...

Nope... I know just a little to know not to use good headphones when in first use. I used crappy ones. How do you know it is the AD8397 opamp and not the OPA690ID? I'm guessing that the opamp must have been bad/defective... Any way of knowing if it was something that I did? I've done...

Ok, here you go: DC offset Set meter to 2000m DB Voltage and get the following: Black probe on IG and red probe on OG = 0 Black probe on IG and red probe on OL = 0 Black probe on IG and red probe on OR = 0 DC offset Set meter to 20 DB Voltage and get the following: Black probe on IG...

So the DC offset is ok? I thought it needed to be in 5mV range and I'm getting .2, 0, .4... Not disagreeing with you, just trying to understand how it works. Rail Split test I believe this is good. Set to 20V and I get 7.45 on V- & V+ and 3.70 on V- & IG I put the battery, turned on to...

Ok, here are my results: DC offset Set meter to 200m DB Voltage and get the following: Black probe on IG and red probe on OG = 0.2 Black probe on IG and red probe on OL = 0 > no value Black probe on IG and red probe on OR = 0.4 Diode test Set meter to diode testing Forward Bias...