Ah okay thanks, that really helps.  One last thing, does the value of r9/r13 matter that much?  All I have are 220k resistors, although I can order some 200k if needed.

Hi, I plan on building a skeleton dac, and I was wondering how important are the smd resistor/cap values?  For instance, the BOM asks for a 20 pf cap, but would a 22pf cap work in its place?  What about resistors, would a 100 or 120 ohm resistor work in place of the 110 ohm resistor in the BOM? ...

If you want to know more about civ 4 mods, or just any civ in general, look up civ fanatics, or just go here:   http://www.civfanatics.com/   Did you end up buying civ 4 or civ 5?

I suppose.  Remember I never had civ 5, only read about it.   END OF LINE

Well, I have to agree with you that it is hard to figure out which city the mysterious maintenance costs are coming from.  Civ 4 is more complex, but not in a bad way.  I think civ 5 was dumbed down a bit to make a lighter learning curve, but also a less realistic game.

Well, not having to be a warmonger all the time in civ 4 is a plus, at least for me.  You don't have to always go to war with everyone, and you don't have to even have an army to win the game (if you are really good)!  As for the winning conditions, I was talking about civ 4 + the expansion...

More aggressive?  Every thing I have seen about civ 5 said that the AI was very dumb, and not near as smart or as human like as civ 4.  Besides, civ 4 has way more victory scenarios than civ 5.

Look here for an excellent comparision of civ 4 vs civ 5.   http://vnboards.ign.com/acf/b5258/113790566/p1/

I don't know about you, but from what I've read, civ 4 has MUCH more replayability than civ 5, and much more "stuff" (units, reasearch, great people etc..) too.  If I were you, I would choose civ 4, unless you want slightly better graphics and eaisier gamplay, but I still think you should get civ 4.

I have not played civ 5 myself, but from what Ive read, civ 4 is much better.  I have civ 4, and not only is it super smooth, but is very moddable and is probably much more deep than civ 5.  In my world gamplay>graphics every time.  I have only had it for a few weeks, but it is great fun!  You...

Hi!

RED

I have the NE-7m and cannot recommend it enough. It has amazing bass and soundstage, but the mids are a little recessed.

Thanks barleyguy, I am planning on using it with a sennheiser 428, which has 32 ohm impedance. I don't think that should cause any hiss.

For those who have a sansa fuze LOD, (or any LOD for that matter) and a fiio E5, how much volume do you need to use on the fiio to get acceptable volumes? Does it produce any hiss when using the fiio with an LOD? How loud is the max volume of a fiio e5 with an LOD? Please help!

I have to admit, it looks pretty cool!

Devo

Britt Nicole- The Lost Get Found Matthew West- The Motions

Just two days ago my NE-7m was working perfectly, but when I put them in my ears to listen to some tunes yesterday, the right channel was completely dead. I think it might be a cable problem, because if I wiggle the right channel back and forth quickly, I hear music through it, but just for a...

BTW nice pics

Interesting, but superjohny, do you think that your JVC V80 is overemphasizing the mids and highs, and that the T4 is kind of "neturalizing them"? Because all the reviews I read said that the T4 was very neutral.

Hello I am thinking about getting a D1001 and pairing it with an ibasso T4. I already have a sansa fuze at home. Do you think that the T4 would have good synergy with the D1001 or would a cheaper amp suffice? Thanks ahead of time.

Thank You! I will let them dry out for a couple of days.

Yesterday I accidentally got a couple of drops of water on my NE-7m. I took the tip off and let it dry out, and it seems to be working fine, but I was wondering if a little bit of water could of hurt the driver. I don't hear any difference in sound, but I just want to know if I could have...

Thank You!