Quote: Originally Posted by ruZZ.il If you only need a foot or 2, I'll gladly send you some, though it'll take a little while to get there.. just let me know. Also, IIRC, he may have gone on vacation for a little while, promising to come back with a bunch of re-stock. It may be worth...

Quote: Originally Posted by tomb Yep - I worded it poorly, but grounding the tube through the pin connections is what I was talking about, not really "grounding" in the sense we normally talk about. Sometimes the pins themselves can get a hairline crack at the entry point into the tube...

Another Millett Max (build 2) lives! I'm not much of an audiophile (built for cost of mats for a friend + soldering experience), but it does sound good. One problem though... I got both the 12FK6 and the 12AE6 from beezar.com. The 12AE6's all work fine, one of the 12FK6's hums. The humming...

So I just started populating my board with the resistors/diodes and noticed something... RR1 and RR2 are supposed to be 1/4 and 1/2 Watt resistors respectively, but the linked part is 1/8 and 1/4 Watt respectively. Are the 1/8, 1/4 watt ones acceptable or do we need the 1/4 and 1/2 Watt ones?

So... I'm planning on ordering parts to build a Millet Max today (pending parts approval of my co-projectee). Ordering seems more or less straight forwards off the BOM until QB9 L/R and QB8 L/R. In the BOM there's two NPN/PNP transistor options given, but both are calculated into the final...

Don't buy the generic ratshack iron. Sucks big time. If anything I use my EE lab's Weller WLC100 which works really well. Might consider getting one myself to replace my ratshack one. And practice soldering your interconnects with really cheap hook up wire/stranded/leftover wire first. My...

Bought the dock from Steven Kelby so I can't check the caps. ... Interesting thing is that the output from the amp is actually reading only 12 mV... Might just be discharging issue? Edit: Think it was discharging (was playing music to test if channels were correct). Seems like one is...

So, after finally having the time to attempt to trouble shoot the my Mini... I find that there is STILL a DC offset no matter what I do. From the LOD its 30 mV and after my amp (yes, I know running DC through my amp is BAD), its ~ 15 mV I'm pretty sure I'm doing this right (I get one...

So I just did the DIYMod (caps are damn small...), and I haven't broken anything, but I do have a problem Apparently there is a DC offset of ~ 50 mV between each channel. One channel is offset by ~1 mV (probably ok), but my other channel is offset ~70 mV. Any ideas what could be the problem...

30 AWG it is. I figured 24 AWG was a bit much so just wanted to make sure. Thanks!

What gauge wires are people using for the hookup in the Ipods (specifically the Mini). I don't have much access to wire and don't really want to use generic EE project hook-up wire, so I was considering buying some. The first page recommends the e-bay shop or Digikey/Mouser, but one is 24 AWG...

Change it not just for the sound (there is a slight difference, but nothing dramatic), but for the microphonics. The microphonics on the steel cable is pretty ridiculous... you brush against ANYTHING and you will here it.

And some people have said the opposite... *shrug* To clarify, the advantages that the HD25-1 has over the ES7 is NOT its sound. Its pretty much well determined that the ES7 has a "funner" (ie, sq slightly altered) sound while the HD25 has a more "analytical" sound (ie, less alteration in SQ)...

Senn HD25-1 is THE top portable closed headphone. AT-ES7 is close if not equal: Senns supposedly more "analytical," ES7's more "fun." (I only have the HD25-1). But you can wear the HD 25's around neck very comfortably, ES7, not so much (based on a few reviews).

Heh, so did I... That idea changed quickly though...