[soloz2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'll go through about $10 in Thermasil pads, but hey, that's 2 beers at a bar or just over 2 gallons of premium fuel.

hell that's 2 gallons of regular here... and I drive just under 60 miles a day round trip to work... I need a tiny car...


Anyway, back on topic. BoilerMakerFan, you've almost got me convinced to try some of the new transistors, but I'm still leaning towards a mosfet build. If I still had Gradoes, or had a pair of RS1's (saving up) then I'd probably make a different decision.

 

[UglyJoe]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif I really suspect that the new MOSFET Max will become the de-facto pairing with Black Gates, based on AMB's simulations. Wait just a week or two, and tomb will hopefully have the MOSFET site up and post some comparative listening impressions. (And no, this IS NOT meant as a hurry up to tomb! )

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan /img/forum/go_quote.gif It didn't come off that way. But if you have two boards and those cans, then I why don't you save the BGs for a MOSFET build and use the Muse ES caps/VitQs with the 2344/1011s and 12FK6 tubes? Personally, I think that setup would rock with the Grados since the Muse ES are bass caps and the VitQs keep the highs. The resolution and detail with the 12FK6 tubes is better too. Then build the MOSFET with the BGs and 12AE6A tubes for the K701s or K702s when they are finally released. I'm planning to buy K601s now, then K702s when they hit the streets...

Someone needs to catch me up on the MOSFET Max. When I was in the loop a couple of months ago it seemed to me that the BJT Max was outperforming, in most peoples opinions, the MOSFET version. However, there has been a lot of talk in the last few pages of the thread about a new MOSFET Max website and things like AMB's simulations, which I haven't come across yet. What's changed and what modifications have happened on the MOSFET side that seem to have everyone pumped about building the MOSFET version?

BTW, thanks both of you. I'm strongly considering building the BG with MOSFETS when that option is available. I've already got the BGs for the BJT build, but I could just spend an extra $8 at Beezar to get the ESs and wait for the MOSFET version with my BGs. If anyone could point me out to previous discussion on the MOSFET Max and AMB's simulations and whatnot that has everyone excited, please do so.... 500 pages of thread is simply to long for me to look through to find it, and searching MOSFETS in the thread is close to useless as many times as they have been mentioned.

 

[bperboy]

Soloz2, sorry to take this OT, but is your PM box full?

 

[soloz2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bperboy /img/forum/go_quote.gif Soloz2, sorry to take this OT, but is your PM box full?

I got back to you. Just been busy.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm not too fond of Mil-Max sockets when they're not supported by additional cross-members as in DIP-sockets. They're not very stable, as anyone who's tried to use them as resistor sockets can attest. One is usually better off chopping up a DIP-socket, instead. I don't think Mouser has them, but DigiKey has a Molex-type socket made specifically for TO-220 transistors. I had some discussions with Colin early-on about this, but decided to build separate MAXes for each transistor type, anyway. Here's a pic: That's a Molex #10-18-2031, DigiKey part #WM2551-ND. Datasheet drawing here. The disadvantage I believe, is that you need some side clearance to manuever the transistor into the socket. So, the middle two sinks may be an issue for the inside transistor. Plus, you have to trim the legs so that their height is correct for the heat sink mount with the added length of the socket. That makes them useless for regular soldering. There's no reason why you can't solder on some spent leads if you decide to mount them permanently, however. P.S. The rest of your strategy sounds good.

I would solder those into the boards, then use the screw-mounted sinks so I can mount the BJTs to the sinks, then plug in the combo into that socket. The screws would support the sinks...

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by UglyJoe /img/forum/go_quote.gif <snip>If anyone could point me out to previous discussion on the MOSFET Max and AMB's simulations and whatnot that has everyone excited, please do so.... 500 pages of thread is simply to long for me to look through to find it, and searching MOSFETS in the thread is close to useless as many times as they have been mentioned.

Without revealing too much from the new site still under development ... or dredging up some not-too-kind remarks about tubes from non-believers ... this link will give you the essence of the conversion:

Millett Hybrid MAXed JFET-MOSFETmod

Essentially, the original MOSFET buffer placed a bit of a capacitive load on the output of the tube, due to the charge capacitance of MOSFETs. Along with the input impedance of the buffer, this formed a filter that rolled off the highs slightly in the original version. The JFETs provide a very high impedance load to the tube and as Amb says, the high frequency roll-off is pushed well into the ultrasonic region.

 

[Ferrari]

The whole dicussion and the first implementation and evaluation of AMB's modification in January this year can be read at page 308-310 of this thread, uncensored.

 

[procalli2007]

Hi,

Im trying to price up the BOM but as Im in the UK and only have a little electronics experience Im having problem making up a list.

I am using farnell as the shipping cost is the cheapest.

So I was wondering if anyone in the UK has already ordered the parts from farnell if they would be kind enough to paste a list here.

Also are there any parts which I should buy when I order the PCB from beezar.com?


Thanks

 

[tomb]

We've had several Head-Fiers from the UK build Millett MAXes. User "adfinni' comes to mind as someone who posted just recently. You might try sending him a PM. He lives in London. I apologize if I forgot someone else who's posted lately. There are several in the beezar.com database, but there's not always a connection to a Head-Fi username.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by procalli2007 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hi, Im trying to price up the BOM but as Im in the UK and only have a little electronics experience Im having problem making up a list. I am using farnell as the shipping cost is the cheapest. So I was wondering if anyone in the UK has already ordered the parts from farnell if they would be kind enough to paste a list here. Also are there any parts which I should buy when I order the PCB from beezar.com? Thanks

I'm a little biased (rim shot), but I would definitely order as much from beezar.com as you can. The ALPS pot, the transistors, RCA jacks, Muse ES and VitQ caps, tubes, ceramic sockets, transistor mounting kits etc. Really, almost everything that Beezar sells you will need, so why not support the man that supports us?

 

[procalli2007]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm a little biased (rim shot), but I would definitely order as much from beezar.com as you can. The ALPS pot, the transistors, RCA jacks, Muse ES and VitQ caps, tubes, ceramic sockets, transistor mounting kits etc. Really, almost everything that Beezar sells you will need, so why not support the man that supports us?

I will probably do that but problem is I will have to do multiple orders as customs charges over £18.

 

[adamus]

the last 4 orders from the us i have been charged nothing from customs. Its pretty random

 

[DrizzitT]

So I just started populating my board with the resistors/diodes and noticed something...

RR1 and RR2 are supposed to be 1/4 and 1/2 Watt resistors respectively, but the linked part is 1/8 and 1/4 Watt respectively. Are the 1/8, 1/4 watt ones acceptable or do we need the 1/4 and 1/2 Watt ones?

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrizzitT /img/forum/go_quote.gif So I just started populating my board with the resistors/diodes and noticed something... RR1 and RR2 are supposed to be 1/4 and 1/2 Watt resistors respectively, but the linked part is 1/8 and 1/4 Watt respectively. Are the 1/8, 1/4 watt ones acceptable or do we need the 1/4 and 1/2 Watt ones?

Not to worry - everything's fine.

This is typical of mil-spec Vishay-Dale resistors, which everyone likes to use. They are mil-spec'd at one-half of the commercial power rating. RN55's will take 1/4W in stride and RN60's handle 1/2W continuously (both will probably handle even more than that).

 

[procalli2007]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm a little biased (rim shot), but I would definitely order as much from beezar.com as you can. The ALPS pot, the transistors, RCA jacks, Muse ES and VitQ caps, tubes, ceramic sockets, transistor mounting kits etc. Really, almost everything that Beezar sells you will need, so why not support the man that supports us?

I have made the first order with the pcb and transistors. Now Im going to make a second order but dont really understand fully the different parts.

I will be ordering a pot, jack and 2 tube sockets but need a no nonsense list on which other parts are essential for a first build. I especially like the look of the green caps. Anyone willing to list which part and how many so I can complete an order.

I will be usng it with either a hd 595 or a hd600.

Thanks for any help.