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What's the best USB audio cable for the money?
- Thread starter Mediahound
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- cables
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Anything best for the money is DIY
Sonic Defender
Headphoneus Supremus
Or whatever isn't defective and comes from the shelves at a Best Buy or The Source. As another perspective. I used a USB cable that was included with a printer for a $3000 DAC. Sounded absolutely perfect. Again, just as another perspective.
Redcarmoose
Headphoneus Supremus
There are many roads to Rome.
manueljenkin
100+ Head-Fier
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Not sure if you can diy a wire from copper without good manufacturing facility!Anything best for the money is DIY
- Joined
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LOL!!! Thanks for the good laugh, but that still doesn’t change what I said earlierNot sure if you can diy a wire from copper without good manufacturing facility!
greenblured
100+ Head-Fier
Did a swap from the standar Supra to a Neo Oyaide d+ usb class s. 3 meter is arond a hundred bucks..LOL!!! Thanks for the good laugh, but that still doesn’t change what I said earlier
This cables are promotet againtst the pro marked. DJ's,studios and the like. Very sturdy. Power awg18/signal awg22, double shielding, solid connectors, platinum+rhodion plated bronce alloy terminals.
Calmer more analog sounding than the supra. less sibilance, not as 'glassy'. Fy first impresions where that music sounded dark and muffled. Held out and swept in the old Supra after 14 days. Soundet sharp,glassy and fatiguing. So very satisfied with the Neo( made in china designed by Oyaide) The real deal is out of my budget.
The Jester
1000+ Head-Fier
Picked up both the D+ class S and the slightly cheaper class A in past couple of years, interestingly, slightly preferred the class A as being slightly more neutral or “organic” sounding … but that‘s just my feelings … they make a pure silver version for the “hifi market” too at over twice the cost… well made robust cables though …
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greenblured
100+ Head-Fier
Did you use the same lenght for A and S?Picked up both the D+ class S and the slightly cheaper class A in past couple of years, interestingly, slightly preferred the class A as being slightly more neutral or “organic” sounding … but that‘s just my feelings … they make a pure silver version for the “hifi market” too at over twice the cost… well made robust cables though …
The Jester
1000+ Head-Fier
I did, though both only 1 metre, found them very robust and use the Class S for my mobile setup .. Laptop/DAC/ powered Sub and satellites mainly cause it’s much easier to see in lower light conditions, less chance of leaving it behind ….
All that being said they are pretty good cables for the money…
All that being said they are pretty good cables for the money…
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audiobomber
500+ Head-Fier
I also tried the silver Class S vs. the copper Class A and preferred the copper version. The Class S was too bright in my system so I returned it and kept the Class A.Picked up both the D+ class S and the slightly cheaper class A in past couple of years, interestingly, slightly preferred the class A as being slightly more neutral or “organic” sounding … but that‘s just my feelings … they make a pure silver version for the “hifi market” too at over twice the cost… well made robust cables though …
I noticed that Oyaide no longer manufacture the original Neo d+ Class A cable, as the pure copper is no longer being manufactured. I believe there is a replacement, called Oyaide Elec D + USB Class A Rev2, but I'm not sure how it compares.
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Based on your findings, I gave the class A a try and it is indeed good. I wish I could try class S, but it is hard to find. Have you come across other notable usb cables of reasonable price? Thank youI kept the Oyaide Neo d+ Class A USB 2.0 cable and returned the more expensive Class S cable. Both are very detailed, but I preferred the Class A for its warmer, more organic sound vs. the bright Class S sound. This review describes what I hear in the Class A cable. http://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/oyaide-neo-d-class-a-usb-20-cable/
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audiobomber
500+ Head-Fier
The Ghent Audio Y-cable is not quite as good as the Oyaide Class A when judged as a pure USB cable, but for DAC's that benefit from upgraded external USB power, it can make a significant difference. Pretty much a necessity with my Rasberry Pi 3B+ due to its dirty USB bus. Also great with my Dell Inspiron laptop.Based on your findings, I gave the class A a try and it is indeed good. I wish I could try class S, but it is hard to find. Have you come across other notable usb cables of reasonable price? Thank you
https://ghentaudio.com/part/u21.html
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Howdy, I wasn't planning on posting on this thread until my battery-powered supercapacitors to power my USB optical cable was ready.
But Monoprice has a sale going on right now, so here we go....
For USB, you may want to consider a Monoprice USB optical if it fits your needs:
https://www.whatsbestforum.com/thre...-crème-de-la-crème.27433/page-151#post-631947
This statement may indicate it has similar decoupling effects to Toslink optical. You can even use mains + USB charger or mains + power conditioner + USB charger. USB battery pack when critical listening.
USB optical + low latency realtime === pretty nice.
I run exclusively battery-powered low latency realtime NUCs and supermicro motherboards. I also run low latency realtime on my Raspberry Pis. I call them baby Taiko Extremes since the low latency realtime Taiko Extreme @ $35,000 is out of my range, these will have to do for now.
https://taikoaudio.com/taiko-2020/sgm-extreme-music-server/
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=16377
https://www.whatsbestforum.com/thre...treme-the-crème-de-la-crème.27433/post-631854
Since Chord DACs requires the VBUS, there was no issue with the SlimRun. If you use Thunderbolt (USBC) optical, there's no VBUS communication so that needs to be ruled out.
Unfortunately, the DAC-side of the USB optical gets warm when powered, so I added heatsinks wrapped by non-conductive Kapton tape:
You may need to adjust so your USB ports doesn't stress. A single heatsink is fine.
So if you have >= DAVE, Monoprice Slimrun USB optical + Sablon
If you have <= TT2, Monoprice Slimrun USB optical + Uptone USPCB
I'll try to post photos of how I power the USB optical cable in a month. I don't like any USB cooper wires on the DATA side in my chain, only optical + PCB. USB cooper wires also add coloration by imparting their own signature. I only like perfectly neutral signatures like glass toslink and now USB optical + PCB. Also, since I run exclusively low latency, I don't know how much cooper wires will slow down or impede the sound. I enjoy the quick, tight, layered pro audio audiophile bass that only realtime audio can provide. Cooper wires will only slow things down.
The sale may only last a few more days. You can also try to search coupon codes for free delivery. It works, but you have to click through some links.
But Monoprice has a sale going on right now, so here we go....
For USB, you may want to consider a Monoprice USB optical if it fits your needs:
That's right, Geoff. SlimRun optical + "any USB cable" I have tried sounds better than that USB cable alone with the Extreme.
https://www.whatsbestforum.com/thre...-crème-de-la-crème.27433/page-151#post-631947
This statement may indicate it has similar decoupling effects to Toslink optical. You can even use mains + USB charger or mains + power conditioner + USB charger. USB battery pack when critical listening.
USB optical + low latency realtime === pretty nice.
I run exclusively battery-powered low latency realtime NUCs and supermicro motherboards. I also run low latency realtime on my Raspberry Pis. I call them baby Taiko Extremes since the low latency realtime Taiko Extreme @ $35,000 is out of my range, these will have to do for now.
https://taikoaudio.com/taiko-2020/sgm-extreme-music-server/
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=16377
This inexpensive Monoprice SlimRun USB 3.0 extender is the functional equivalent of MSB's Pro USB adapter for a non-MSB DAC and comes in lengths of up to 164 feet and for the 65 foot length that I am using, I paid only $200 USD. Unlike a lot of other optical USB solutions, it is backward compatible with USB 2.0 and provides a pure optical data connection from server to DAC. While 5V VBUS and power to the receiving module is generally provided by the server's USB port, it can be fully bypassed with a 5V battery (or in my case, an LPS-1.2) resulting in complete galvanic isolation. To ensure that this is the case, I have shut off the 5V VBUS coming from the JCAT Femto USB card by pulling its jumper. Unlike the Corning optical USB cable (which I own and sounds horrible), this fiber USB extender when coupled with Sablon's latest USB cable sounds REALLY good and, to my ears, is superior to the Intona USB 3.0 isolator (which I find flattens the sound stage). There is a very obvious drop in noise floor resulting in greater clarity and definition with no perceptible downside that I can hear. The further benefit of this complete galvanic isolation is that I no longer hear any benefits from grounding the Extreme. This solution has proven so effective that I use it for both listening rooms but just as importantly, I am now fully leveraging the Extreme in both listening rooms without the use of a sound degrading endpoint.
Finally, I was curious to know how the Extreme would sound as a Roon endpoint while using my AMD 12-core server as the Roon server. Would the Extreme benefit from offloading some of the work to another high-power device? The presentation was full and dynamic but I found that the AMD server actually slowed down the Extreme and I say this quite literally. In this configuration, the Extreme sounds slower and it is a definite step backward. Thus far, the Extreme sounds best standalone.
https://www.whatsbestforum.com/thre...treme-the-crème-de-la-crème.27433/post-631854
Since Chord DACs requires the VBUS, there was no issue with the SlimRun. If you use Thunderbolt (USBC) optical, there's no VBUS communication so that needs to be ruled out.
Unfortunately, the DAC-side of the USB optical gets warm when powered, so I added heatsinks wrapped by non-conductive Kapton tape:
You may need to adjust so your USB ports doesn't stress. A single heatsink is fine.
So if you have >= DAVE, Monoprice Slimrun USB optical + Sablon
If you have <= TT2, Monoprice Slimrun USB optical + Uptone USPCB
I'll try to post photos of how I power the USB optical cable in a month. I don't like any USB cooper wires on the DATA side in my chain, only optical + PCB. USB cooper wires also add coloration by imparting their own signature. I only like perfectly neutral signatures like glass toslink and now USB optical + PCB. Also, since I run exclusively low latency, I don't know how much cooper wires will slow down or impede the sound. I enjoy the quick, tight, layered pro audio audiophile bass that only realtime audio can provide. Cooper wires will only slow things down.
The sale may only last a few more days. You can also try to search coupon codes for free delivery. It works, but you have to click through some links.
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ImpressiveHowdy, I wasn't planning on posting on this thread until my battery-powered supercapacitors to power my USB optical cable was ready.
But Monoprice has a sale going on right now, so here we go....
For USB, you may want to consider a Monoprice USB optical if it fits your needs:
https://www.whatsbestforum.com/thre...-crème-de-la-crème.27433/page-151#post-631947
This statement may indicate it has similar decoupling effects to Toslink optical. You can even use mains + USB charger or mains + power conditioner + USB charger. USB battery pack when critical listening.
USB optical + low latency realtime === pretty nice.
I run exclusively battery-powered low latency realtime NUCs and supermicro motherboards. I also run low latency realtime on my Raspberry Pis. I call them baby Taiko Extremes since the low latency realtime Taiko Extreme @ $35,000 is out of my range, these will have to do for now.
https://taikoaudio.com/taiko-2020/sgm-extreme-music-server/
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=16377
https://www.whatsbestforum.com/thre...treme-the-crème-de-la-crème.27433/post-631854
Since Chord DACs requires the VBUS, there was no issue with the SlimRun. If you use Thunderbolt (USBC) optical, there's no VBUS communication so that needs to be ruled out.
Unfortunately, the DAC-side of the USB optical gets warm when powered, so I added heatsinks wrapped by non-conductive Kapton tape:
You may need to adjust so your USB ports doesn't stress. A single heatsink is fine.
So if you have >= DAVE, Monoprice Slimrun USB optical + Sablon
If you have <= TT2, Monoprice Slimrun USB optical + Uptone USPCB
I'll try to post photos of how I power the USB optical cable in a month. I don't like any USB cooper wires on the DATA side in my chain, only optical + PCB. USB cooper wires also add coloration by imparting their own signature. I only like perfectly neutral signatures like glass toslink and now USB optical + PCB. Also, since I run exclusively low latency, I don't know how much cooper wires will slow down or impede the sound. I enjoy the quick, tight, layered pro audio audiophile bass that only realtime audio can provide. Cooper wires will only slow things down.
The sale may only last a few more days. You can also try to search coupon codes for free delivery. It works, but you have to click through some links.
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