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What computer speakers to get?

Discussion in 'Computer Audio' started by nuraman00, May 15, 2016.
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  1. Pharmaboy
    early in 2018 I read 100s of comments about all the powered studio monitors that music professionals tend to use. I was looking for a true sonic unicorn: a powered studio monitor that actually sounded good for music reproduction (as opposed to the forensic sound that music tracking & production requires). I read a many comments about various Adam monitors. Most didn't mention sound at all, but among those that did, it seemed to fall in 2 camps: users who loved the incisive, detailed sound of their ribbon tweeters; vs those who found them intolerably bright/edgy.

    I didn't even mention monitors like entry level Adam because they typically cost more than your budget, and usually don't have built in DAC or remote controllable volume.
  2. mwhals
    It sounds like the one you linked is the best option so I don’t end up with a volume controlled Sys in front of a volume controlled Milo. I prefer not to have double volume knobs.

    I also like that the one you linked has a longer cable for connecting the two speakers. My issue now is that the Bose cable is not long enough to place each speaker on either side of the two 24” monitors.
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2019
  3. Pharmaboy
    I should also explain a built-in advantage I have in my system, that avoids multiple in-line volume pots:
    • The DAC I used IMS for 3 ys, Audio GD NOS 19, was modded at my request to have 2 pairs of RCA outputs, both live all the time.
    • The one I just upgraded to, MHDT Labs Orchid, was modded in the same way
    • So one RCA output pair goes to a headphone amp/preamp (Violectric V281), on which I can listen to headphones anytime I want.
    • The V281's line-out goes to an amp which powers my passive studio monitors.
    • The 2nd RCA output of the DAC goes to any other headphone amp I feel like installing (I have a number of amps, and change them fairly often). Right now that 2nd RCA output goes to a Lake People G109-A amp, on which I have a new headphone (AQ Nighthawk Carbon) burning in)
    • Note the volumes I use on the speakers vs 2nd amp can be totally different. I can also have the speakers on & 2nd amp not on; or the reverse.
    I'm totally used to this very convenient DAC-has-2-outputs scenario...
    mwhals likes this.
  4. bzippy
    Have you every heard any Audioengine speakers? I really like my little A2's.
  5. mwhals
    I haven't heard any of them.
  6. mwhals
    The Vanatoo T0 is getting good reviews too, but I like the T1e better if I can get it to fit. If not, I will give the T0 a look.
  7. Donut
    So I'm looking at getting a new set of speakers for my computer in my bedroom - a small room. The speakers currently connected to my computer - Logitech Z-5300 - actually work fine. But all of the inputs for my headphones to my computer are no longer functional, and that's a much more serious problem. I had a Schitt Magni-Modi combo I was using early on but a storm shorted them out. The headphone jack on my speakers haven't worked in awhile, and the headphone jack directly on my computer doesn't really work anymore, either. So I'm taking the opportunity to upgrade my overall speakers.

    I'm looking for a pair of powered bookshelf speakers and a subwoofer to match up. I want to be able to directly connect them to my computer - it's onboard Realtek, but I do have a spdif optical port in the back, so that's something. Trying to keep the whole thing under ~ US$700 has proven somewhat difficult. My original plan was to get the Audioengine A5+ and the S8 sub to match. Right now I'm close to wanting to pull the trigger on a pair of Kanto YU6 & a SVS SB1000 sub. That combo sounds like I could hook them up really easily to my computer, and while the total price is a bit above what I was originally looking at, it seems like it's worth the price. However, looking at Kanto's website they seem to have a newer set of speakers that will be out in a couple weeks - the TUK. There's a big part of me that wants to match the Kanto TUK with the SVS SB2000 sub. This combination is double my original budget but from what I can gather it might actually be worth it. Any route I go it feels like I'm destined to get a specific separate headphone amp/maybe DAC to use. Audioquest Dragonfly Red or iFi Nano iDSD Black Label seem like the ideal options for me in this realm.

    I should note that speaker usage will be split between music & movies/TV. Space is a bit of an issue so getting speakers that are too big would be a problem.

    Any opinions here? Am I wrong in my thinking? Or am I missing something? Any input is greatly appreciated.
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2019
  8. Varmintbaby

    You don't really need a sub though dude. Especially not for a smaller room and for a computer. I would highly recommend the Pioneer DM-40 or if you need Bluetooth DM-40BT. They have plenty of base for a room, even a large room. They can get very loud and have RCA and 3.5mm input on the back. You get a pair and they go for $149. I use them as my master speakers when I practice DJing off my DJ controller. I have XLR cables out of the Pioneer DDJ-SX2 controller going to RCA on the back of the DM-40s. As long as your sound card has 3.5mm out, you can just run a 3.5mm cable to the DM-40s. Again, I can't state how awesome these speakers sound for the price. They really perform well above their paygrade. I upgraded to them from Samson MediaOne M30's and the DM-40s blew those out the water. They are clear, loud and have great bass. Check them out I promise you won't be disappointed.

    P.S. A sub is needed when you have a large room with a lot of human beings occupying it. Just the speakers won't keep the bass audible because that many people absorbs the lower frequencies that bass rolls at. Someone once told me that it's the water in our bodies that causes that, but who knows. Anyway, for your situation, it's not required.
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2019
  9. Donut
    Thanks for the heads up; I'll look into the Pioneers. I don't need Bluetooth or wireless connectivity at the moment.

    Insofar as a sub is concerned, it makes a big difference for me. I've had a speaker system with a sub connected to my computer for a long time. I've listened to speakers without a sub, and unless they're the bigger, higher end type that can reach down low I always end up missing the sub. The speakers that I've looked at and would consider forgoing a sub with seem to be either too big or out of my price range. I still haven't taken going without a sub off the table, though, at least for the right speakers.
  10. nuraman00
    I'm the one that started this thread, in 2016.

    I too have my speakers connected to my computer.

    I ended up comparing the JBL LSR 308 side by side with the Emotiva Airmotiv 6s. My prior speakers, which I had for 17 years, were a 2.1 set, so they had a sub.

    I went with the Airmotiv 6s, but still feel that with certain songs or types of music, I miss a sub. I regret not comparing with the Swan m50w side by side, to see what I thought of a system with a sub during this time.

    90% of the time, I don't miss a sub, but about 10% of the time, with certain songs, I do.

    Yes, I can still add a sub later, but it's a future wishlist plan to add a DAC and sub. It's not something I can spend on right now. Back in 2016, would have been the time to properly budget and evaluate.

    This is the first I've seen for a recommendation for the Pioneer DM-40s. I am a fan of Pioneer for video and audio products in general, as I've always had a good experience and quality with them. So I would consider that recommendation.

    I've also seen a lot of recommendations for the SVS-1000. Given that the price difference between a SVS-2000 and 1000 isn't that much IMO, I'd probably go with the 2000. But again, for me, this is why this plus a DAC would have to be a future purchase, and not something I can buy until I'm ready to spend that much.

    Perhaps the Pioneer DM-40s with one of the SVS subs is a more affordable but still good option.

    Also, from your earlier post, did you mean you have a Schitt DAC? How do you like it?

    Perhaps get a few different things from a retailer that allows returns, like I did, so you can compare a few different options and see what you think. You'll have to pay for return shipping. But it doesn't sound like you're getting things that are too big, like the ones that I did, so maybe the return shipping won't cost so much.
  11. radosuaf
    Looking for a replacement for my Creative A60 - these are standing on my office desk, so the replacement should have a small footprint and blend nicely in the surrounding - small black boxes would be perfect. Is there anything better than GigaWorks T20 I can get for a decent price (~60 USD)? Obviously, Audioengine A2 are over the budget :).
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2019
  12. mariopepper
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2019
  13. mwhals
    Soundtouch is Bose and I don't believe those soundbars work well with PCs for audio compared to the other speakers mentioned in this thread.
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2019
  14. aisalen
    I am also looking for one and my short listed are the Edifier R1850DB, R2000DB or S350DB. I do not want to invest so much as I do have both portable and desktop headphone system. I am probably getting the R2000DB due to small footprint compared with S350DB and yet have ample bass compared to R1850DB. You can get at least some idea how it sounds for your target speaker from Digital Stereophony in YT, but of course, demoing in person is a much ideal one.
  15. Pharmaboy
    I have a single SVS SB-1000 & love it. Great sound for little $$. I would have gladly gotten an SB-2000 instead, but no room for that. My fantasy is to get a 2nd SB-1000 and somehow carve out space for it in my crowded home office (which already holds a shtt-ton of audio gear).

    But one word of caution about the SB-1000. When I first installed it in place of an old 8" NHT sub (excellent), I did what I had done w/the NHT: ran the RCA output pair from the preamp to the input of the sub; and then a 2nd RCA output pair connecting the sub's output (low-pass filtered to remove frequencies below 80Hz @a slope of 12 dB/octave). That worked extremely well--clearly the little passive crossover was very transparent. But when I tried the same thing w/the SB-1000, the sound via the speakers was unsatisfactory.

    Finally I inserted a quality external cross-over in the system (Marchand XM66); this divides the input signal into high- and low-pass filtered outputs (80H @24dB/octave). The resulting sound is quite transparent. But I never would've gone in that direction if the SB-1000's crossover had done the trick.
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