[bryceu]

I currently own Presonus Eris 4.5, as well as JBL 305s. If you got the space the JBLs are bitchin. But if space is an issue I would have no problem settling for the Eris 4.5s. They're also convenient that they had a front facing single power switch to control both speakers as well as volume control in case your dac/pre-amp doesn't have convenient adjustable volume.

 

[nuraman00]

I am updating my last post from February. I love my Vanatoo T Zeroes, but as time went on, they were not impressing me. That is probably related to my binging on headphone gear in 2019. It was basically just from motherboard (bult-in sound card) to my DAC/AMP/speakers. It wasn't as clear as I was getting used to out in the living room.

So I bought a Topping D30 DAC and dedicated one of my headphone amps for the office. My wife had been complaining about no longer having a headphone option in the office since I dumped our 2.1 system and put in the Vanatoo's.

Anyway, WOW, does this sound great! It sounds like a real stereo now. Computer to D30 DAC to Burson Fun-Classic amp to Vanatoo T Zeroes. It is full and clear with any kind of music, Rock, pop, blues or horn jazz. Nothing is too bassy or too high. Working on the desktop or hunting for music is so much more fun now.

Shane D

PS: I need the sun to come out to get a decent pic:

Thanks for the report.

I don't know when, but sometime on my wishlist is getting a DAC.

I would use it in 2 ways:

* PC-->DAC-->Emotiva Airmotiv 6s

* CD player with optical out-->DAC-->Headphones.

Right now, with the Airmotiv 6s, I like them. But coming from a 2.1 system, I miss the bass sometime. For 90% of the music, it's good, but for certain songs or genres, I miss it.

Not sure if I should focus on a DAC first, or a subwoofer. But since you mentioned the D30 DAC, I thought I would ask about that.

How would a DAC make a difference in my PC setup? What would I notice with the D30?

Also, what cables do I need? Right now, from the PC to Emotiva 6s, I am using a 3.5 mm from the PC to RCA L and R to the speakers.

Could I use PC --> optical out --> DAC? Then after that, get separate L and R RCA cables for the line out?

For the CD player setup, is there a headphone out I can with the DAC?

Most of the time, I play the CDs in desktop, hence the PC setup.

But occasionally, I'd be using my portable CD player in my room, so I'd want to take the DAC with me.

 

[Shane D]

Thanks for the report.

I don't know when, but sometime on my wishlist is getting a DAC.

I would use it in 2 ways:

* PC-->DAC-->Emotiva Airmotiv 6s

* CD player with optical out-->DAC-->Headphones.

Right now, with the Airmotiv 6s, I like them. But coming from a 2.1 system, I miss the bass sometime. For 90% of the music, it's good, but for certain songs or genres, I miss it.

Not sure if I should focus on a DAC first, or a subwoofer. But since you mentioned the D30 DAC, I thought I would ask about that.

How would a DAC make a difference in my PC setup? What would I notice with the D30?

Also, what cables do I need? Right now, from the PC to Emotiva 6s, I am using a 3.5 mm from the PC to RCA L and R to the speakers.

Could I use PC --> optical out --> DAC? Then after that, get separate L and R RCA cables for the line out?

For the CD player setup, is there a headphone out I can with the DAC?

Most of the time, I play the CDs in desktop, hence the PC setup.

But occasionally, I'd be using my portable CD player in my room, so I'd want to take the DAC with me.

I am far from an expert, but I'll take a shot:

I chose the D30 over a D10 for dedicated power supply and connectivity options.

I did not test the DAC without the amp, so I am not sure about which brought more improvements.

My Vanatoo Transparent Zeroes are active speakers that already have a DAC and amp built in. And a remote to add to or tame the bass.

My cabling is computer via USB to DAC. Then RCA DAC to amp. Then RCA to 3.5mm cable for amp to speakers. So I have double DACing and double amping going on.
Sounds great to me though.

With the DAC D30, you can go computer to DAC via USB or SPDIF or even coax. Whatever works for you. And then it is only RCA out.

Are your speakers active? Meaning are they self amping?
Mine are active, but don't have RCA's in because they already have a DAC and an amp inside. They even do bluetooth. Tons of flexibility with these.

Not sure if I helped much, but feel free to shoot more questions and I will try my best.

Shane D

 

[nuraman00]

I am far from an expert, but I'll take a shot:

I chose the D30 over a D10 for dedicated power supply and connectivity options.

I did not test the DAC without the amp, so I am not sure about which brought more improvements.

My Vanatoo Transparent Zeroes are active speakers that already have a DAC and amp built in. And a remote to add to or tame the bass.

My cabling is computer via USB to DAC. Then RCA DAC to amp. Then RCA to 3.5mm cable for amp to speakers. So I have double DACing and double amping going on.
Sounds great to me though.

With the DAC D30, you can go computer to DAC via USB or SPDIF or even coax. Whatever works for you. And then it is only RCA out.

Are your speakers active? Meaning are they self amping?
Mine are active, but don't have RCA's in because they already have a DAC and an amp inside. They even do bluetooth. Tons of flexibility with these.

Not sure if I helped much, but feel free to shoot more questions and I will try my best.

Shane D

The Airmotiv 6s are active powered monitors.

https://emotiva.com.ua/pdf/6s/airmotiv_6s_user_v01.pdf

For volume, I use the volume buttons on my keyboard. Emotiva did make a stand alone Control Freak turn knob, but I never got it, and they later discontinued it anyways.

These do not have bluetooth. It was something I was considering in 2016 when I made my purchase, but ultimately I wanted what sounded the best. I compared these to the JBL LSR 308 side by side at home.

I can probably get some 3rd party device to do bluetooth, or WiFi, but for now, my priorities are a DAC or subwoofer. I would also be a bit concerned about music being compressed via bluetooth. (But not over WiFI).

Do you know if the D30 has a headphone out? If so, then I can consider it for my portable CD player setup too. When I'm ready to get a DAC, I want something that can support both the setups for my PC, and portable CD player.

Thanks.

 

[Shane D]

The Airmotiv 6s are active powered monitors.

https://emotiva.com.ua/pdf/6s/airmotiv_6s_user_v01.pdf

For volume, I use the volume buttons on my keyboard. Emotiva did make a stand alone Control Freak turn knob, but I never got it, and they later discontinued it anyways.

These do not have bluetooth. It was something I was considering in 2016 when I made my purchase, but ultimately I wanted what sounded the best. I compared these to the JBL LSR 308 side by side at home.

I can probably get some 3rd party device to do bluetooth, or WiFi, but for now, my priorities are a DAC or subwoofer. I would also be a bit concerned about music being compressed via bluetooth. (But not over WiFI).

Do you know if the D30 has a headphone out? If so, then I can consider it for my portable CD player setup too. When I'm ready to get a DAC, I want something that can support both the setups for my PC, and portable CD player.

Thanks.

Hello again. Weird that they don't have a volume knob, but do have XLR inputs.
The D30 does not have a headphone jack as it is just a DAC. That is why I added an amp to the chain. Now I have beautiful speaker sound and you can plug in the headphones at any time. And when you plug into the headphone amp you control your headphone volume with the amp knob.
With my speakers I have four ways to adjust the volume: on screen, via amp, remote control and knob on speaker back.

The D30 is a pretty bare bones DAC, which is fine for my use. I paid $134.00 in Canada (about $100.00US) and am very happy with the results.

My only mistake was not looking at the Zeroes closer first. There is no RCA in, which makes sense. Luckily I had an RCA X 2 into a 3.5mm cable sitting around. I was afraid it would hurt sound quality, but sounds awesome to me.

You may want to go further up the DAC chain to get more features. Maybe even look at a DAC/amp?
Topping D30 and a Liquid Spark would be an awesome combo! I got an open box Spark for $80.00US.
I was going for that but decided to use the Burson instead.

Your computer gives you several output options for the DAC. Hopefully the CD player does too.

Just out of curiosity, why don't you rip all your CD's to the computer? I rip mine as ALAC because I use iTunes. FLAC would be the same. Then everything runs through the computer to the DAC and buy yourself a DAP as funds allow?

Shane D

 

[nuraman00]

Hello again. Weird that they don't have a volume knob, but do have XLR inputs.
The D30 does not have a headphone jack as it is just a DAC. That is why I added an amp to the chain. Now I have beautiful speaker sound and you can plug in the headphones at any time. And when you plug into the headphone amp you control your headphone volume with the amp knob.
With my speakers I have four ways to adjust the volume: on screen, via amp, remote control and knob on speaker back.

The D30 is a pretty bare bones DAC, which is fine for my use. I paid $134.00 in Canada (about $100.00US) and am very happy with the results.

My only mistake was not looking at the Zeroes closer first. There is no RCA in, which makes sense. Luckily I had an RCA X 2 into a 3.5mm cable sitting around. I was afraid it would hurt sound quality, but sounds awesome to me.

You may want to go further up the DAC chain to get more features. Maybe even look at a DAC/amp?
Topping D30 and a Liquid Spark would be an awesome combo! I got an open box Spark for $80.00US.
I was going for that but decided to use the Burson instead.

Your computer gives you several output options for the DAC. Hopefully the CD player does too.

Just out of curiosity, why don't you rip all your CD's to the computer? I rip mine as ALAC because I use iTunes. FLAC would be the same. Then everything runs through the computer to the DAC and buy yourself a DAP as funds allow?

Shane D

Thanks. I do have a DAP, I have both an iPod Video, and Sansa Fuze+. I use those too.

But I also like the sound of my portable CD player, so I like using that once in a while too.

When I'm commuting or on the go, I'll use my DAP. When I'm at home, or driving, I use a CD player. Just my preference.

Thanks, when I'm ready to start researching and make a purchase, I'll look for a DAC/amp. Thanks for the recommendation.

Also, because I want a format that's compatible with both an iPod and Fuze+, I use 320 kbps mp3s. But if I'm on the go, I'm not as picky about sound quality as I am when I'm at home, in a quieter environment. A noisy bus or subway isn't the best for attentive listening, IMO. So during those times, I don't need it to be perfect.

I also chose to build my desktop with a 1 TB SSD only, I like it for the performance and quiet. I do also have a 2 TB external HDD for media storage (but I keep my music on my desktop too).

 

[Shane D]

Thanks. I do have a DAP, I have both an iPod Video, and Sansa Fuze+. I use those too.

But I also like the sound of my portable CD player, so I like using that once in a while too.

When I'm commuting or on the go, I'll use my DAP. When I'm at home, or driving, I use a CD player. Just my preference.

Thanks, when I'm ready to start researching and make a purchase, I'll look for a DAC/amp. Thanks for the recommendation.

Also, because I want a format that's compatible with both an iPod and Fuze+, I use 320 kbps mp3s. But if I'm on the go, I'm not as picky about sound quality as I am when I'm at home, in a quieter environment. A noisy bus or subway isn't the best for attentive listening, IMO. So during those times, I don't need it to be perfect.

I also chose to build my desktop with a 1 TB SSD only, I like it for the performance and quiet. I do also have a 2 TB external HDD for media storage (but I keep my music on my desktop too).

Sounds like you have a pretty good grip on things! I have a place that I used to buy from that was all MP3 (320k). When I ripped my CD collection, that all became ALAC's. When I buy CD's now (Very rare), they are usually jazz and do go ALAC.
I started buying from iTunes about 5 years ago and so they are all AAC (260k, I think).

Back on subject, the DAC and amp additions made a world of difference to my music listening at the desktop.

Good luck!

Shane D

 

[nuraman00]

I am updating my last post from February. I love my Vanatoo T Zeroes, but as time went on, they were not impressing me. That is probably related to my binging on headphone gear in 2019. It was basically just from motherboard (bult-in sound card) to my DAC/AMP/speakers. It wasn't as clear as I was getting used to out in the living room.

So I bought a Topping D30 DAC and dedicated one of my headphone amps for the office. My wife had been complaining about no longer having a headphone option in the office since I dumped our 2.1 system and put in the Vanatoo's.

Anyway, WOW, does this sound great! It sounds like a real stereo now. Computer to D30 DAC to Burson Fun-Classic amp to Vanatoo T Zeroes. It is full and clear with any kind of music, Rock, pop, blues or horn jazz. Nothing is too bassy or too high. Working on the desktop or hunting for music is so much more fun now.

Shane D

PS: I need the sun to come out to get a decent pic:

Can you post some tracks, albums, or genres of music, that you thought made the most difference, from before when you had just the Vanatoo T Zeroes, and then later added the D30 DAC and the headphone amp?

Also, are there any genres of music where you felt it didn't made much of a difference?

 

[Shane D]

Can you post some tracks, albums, or genres of music, that you thought made the most difference, from before when you had just the Vanatoo T Zeroes, and then later added the D30 DAC and the headphone amp?

Also, are there any genres of music where you felt it didn't made much of a difference?

Bassy stuff was just rumbling. Lots of desk vibration, but no real focus. It was messy. And female vocals were going too high. I have a speaker remote which I was using regularly to adjust the treble and the bass. I don't touch it all all now.

My music is rock, a bit of pop, Blues and horn jazz.

Large difference since I added the DAC and amp to the system. I can now go louder and everything feels tighter.

Shane D

 

[nuraman00]

Sounds like you have a pretty good grip on things! I have a place that I used to buy from that was all MP3 (320k). When I ripped my CD collection, that all became ALAC's. When I buy CD's now (Very rare), they are usually jazz and do go ALAC.
I started buying from iTunes about 5 years ago and so they are all AAC (260k, I think).

Back on subject, the DAC and amp additions made a world of difference to my music listening at the desktop.

Good luck!

Shane D

Thanks. I do have a DAP, I have both an iPod Video, and Sansa Fuze+. I use those too.

But I also like the sound of my portable CD player, so I like using that once in a while too.

When I'm commuting or on the go, I'll use my DAP. When I'm at home, or driving, I use a CD player. Just my preference.

Thanks, when I'm ready to start researching and make a purchase, I'll look for a DAC/amp. Thanks for the recommendation.

Also, because I want a format that's compatible with both an iPod and Fuze+, I use 320 kbps mp3s. But if I'm on the go, I'm not as picky about sound quality as I am when I'm at home, in a quieter environment. A noisy bus or subway isn't the best for attentive listening, IMO. So during those times, I don't need it to be perfect.

I also chose to build my desktop with a 1 TB SSD only, I like it for the performance and quiet. I do also have a 2 TB external HDD for media storage (but I keep my music on my desktop too).

Just an update on this.

I had 3 reasons about why I burned my CDs to 320 kbps mp3s instead of a lossless format.

1) . I needed to support both an iPod and Sansa Fuze+, so I didn't think I could use ALAC (Apple Lossless) in a Fuze+. I didn't want to have 2 copies of everything. As I use both my iPod Video and Fuze+, depending on what I'm in the mood for, or which one has more current battery life.

2) . I fall asleep 40% of the time during my commute, for 15-20 minutes. If I'm not giving my music my full attention, then how much effort should I put into trying to hear every detail?

As I said previously, the only time I can guarantee my full attention, is when I'm at home.

3) . Noisy environment. Whether it was the noisy tracks of the subway on my old commute, or hearing large trucks and motorcyclists go by me at a bus stop on my new commute, I'm not in a great quiet environment. If outside noise gets in the way of trying to hear every detail, then why should try so hard to have perfect music quality?

Well, I found out today that # 1 is not true. I converted one of the tracks to ALAC, and tried it in my Fuze+. It worked. So now I can have a lossless format across both devices.

I think it has something to do with how a Fuze+ can play anything in a AAC container, which is what the ALAC file was in.

# 2 and 3 are still valid concerns/obstacles, but I think I will start to convert some future music to ALAC. It depends on what I'm listening to, and if it's meant to be hi-fi, or not.

 

[Shane D]

Just an update on this.

I had 3 reasons about why I burned my CDs to 320 kbps mp3s instead of a lossless format.

1) . I needed to support both an iPod and Sansa Fuze+, so I didn't think I could use ALAC (Apple Lossless) in a Fuze+. I didn't want to have 2 copies of everything. As I use both my iPod Video and Fuze+, depending on what I'm in the mood for, or which one has more current battery life.

2) . I fall asleep 40% of the time during my commute, for 15-20 minutes. If I'm not giving my music my full attention, then how much effort should I put into trying to hear every detail?

As I said previously, the only time I can guarantee my full attention, is when I'm at home.

3) . Noisy environment. Whether it was the noisy tracks of the subway on my old commute, or hearing large trucks and motorcyclists go by me at a bus stop on my new commute, I'm not in a great quiet environment. If outside noise gets in the way of trying to hear every detail, then why should try so hard to have perfect music quality?

Well, I found out today that # 1 is not true. I converted one of the tracks to ALAC, and tried it in my Fuze+. It worked. So now I can have a lossless format across both devices.

I think it has something to do with how a Fuze+ can play anything in a AAC container, which is what the ALAC file was in.

# 2 and 3 are still valid concerns/obstacles, but I think I will start to convert some future music to ALAC. It depends on what I'm listening to, and if it's meant to be hi-fi, or not.

If I wasn't tied to Apple, I would rip in FLAC. Identical to ALAC, but neutral system wise. I only do ALAC because iTunes is my music software and where I buy my music. I still have my ipod Classic, but it is only used in my car now.

To be honest, I can not tell the difference between the formats. crappy recording sounds crappy in any format. And early 128Kbps stuff was horrible. I am a big Florence and the Machine fan. I bought her first two albums as CD's and ripped them as ALAC. I bought the next two on iTunes as AAC files. I can not tell any difference when I play her music on shuffle, none at all. Actually one or two of the orginal CD songs have picked up some noise. I am guessing corrupted files. I dumped all my CD's and will replace them with AAC's.

I have bought CD's in the recent years, just for jazz. And I get CD's from Jazziz magazine.

Shane D

 

[nuraman00]

If I wasn't tied to Apple, I would rip in FLAC. Identical to ALAC, but neutral system wise. I only do ALAC because iTunes is my music software and where I buy my music. I still have my ipod Classic, but it is only used in my car now.

To be honest, I can not tell the difference between the formats. crappy recording sounds crappy in any format. And early 128Kbps stuff was horrible. I am a big Florence and the Machine fan. I bought her first two albums as CD's and ripped them as ALAC. I bought the next two on iTunes as AAC files. I can not tell any difference when I play her music on shuffle, none at all. Actually one or two of the orginal CD songs have picked up some noise. I am guessing corrupted files. I dumped all my CD's and will replace them with AAC's.

I have bought CD's in the recent years, just for jazz. And I get CD's from Jazziz magazine.

Shane D

Same here. If I wasn't tied to Apple through my iPod Video, I would convert to FLAC too. But, my iPod Video was a special gift to me a long time ago, so I like using it.

I also agree that bad music sounds bad in any format. And with good music, I'd say for 90-95% of the songs, it's hard to tell the difference between a high quality mp3/AAC, or FLAC. Only those songs that have sounds that reach the very high or very low frequencies, can I tell the difference.

EDIT: Did you change your avatar a little? I thought your cat was wearing headphones before.

 

[fonkh]

I don´t want to create a new thread, so hope it´s Ok to ask here..

I upgraded to the KEF LSX for my desktop setup (got the iLoud micro monitors before) and wanted to put them on my Audio-GD R2R-11, like i did with my iLouds. But as the LSX only has optical and the Audio-GD only optical for input, this is not working. Currently i hooked the LSX directly to the PC with optical, but thats super annoying to switch with Headphones, volume control etc.
So im looking for an allround solution like i had before, so PC -> DAC/AMP -> LSX / Headphones. I was eying at the RME ADI-2 before (because i also got some Andros), but i guess thats also not working now. Any ideas what to get for my "problem" ?

 

[Shane D]

Did you change your avatar a little? I thought your cat was wearing headphones before.

Funny you mention that. No, I did not change my avatar. However, I found Redbubble and went on a BIG T-shirt binge. Mostly music related, but two of them are really cool cat shirts with headphones on and off. I get WAY more comments on the cat shirts vs Steely Dan, Dave Matthews or Miles Davis.

Shane D

 

[Shane D]

I don´t want to create a new thread, so hope it´s Ok to ask here..

I upgraded to the KEF LSX for my desktop setup (got the iLoud micro monitors before) and wanted to put them on my Audio-GD R2R-11, like i did with my iLouds. But as the LSX only has optical and the Audio-GD only optical for input, this is not working. Currently i hooked the LSX directly to the PC with optical, but thats super annoying to switch with Headphones, volume control etc.
So im looking for an allround solution like i had before, so PC -> DAC/AMP -> LSX / Headphones. I was eying at the RME ADI-2 before (because i also got some Andros), but i guess thats also not working now. Any ideas what to get for my "problem" ?

Wow, those are some expensive speakers!
Anyway, you could hook up just like I did, if you want. That is USB, optical or coax to your DAC.
Then RCA out to your speakers. I had to use a 2 X RCA to 3.5mm cable, which I thought would mess up the sound, but it really didn't.That will go into your accessory jack. Your speakers don't have an RCA in, because they already have a DAC and amp built in, like mine.

Did that help at all?

Shane D