Vsonic GR06 broke fast?
Jul 1, 2012 at 10:12 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 19

189906

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Has anyone else had the problem of the left side going out for no reason? (even after taking GOOD care of it)
I ordered my GR06 on ebay from bigbargainonline. Does annyone have an idea on how to disassemble it?
 
Jul 1, 2012 at 10:20 AM Post #2 of 19
How long have you had them?
 
Member SoundStige repairs headphones. You may want to shoot him a PM.
 
Hope it works out, Jim
 
Jul 1, 2012 at 10:24 AM Post #3 of 19
I've had them for a month. Do you think he might tell me how to open it? I was thinking about making the glue on the housing of it warm so that it gets loose, so I can open it up. Also I think it might be a cold solder in it thats causing it to stop working. Whenever I put it in my ear and pull it a bit out of my ear till it creates pressure it works.
 
Jul 1, 2012 at 5:22 PM Post #6 of 19
I opened the housing up and measured the driver itself. It somehow increased to 100 ohms. Does anyone know how this could happen?
Will post a picture of the driver when I wake up tomorrow (Live in Belgium so time is different.)
 
EDIT: Found the problem.
It was driver flex, I never knew driver flex could cause these kind of problems. The resistance is now going down when I burn it in.
I will still post the picture of the insides of the GR06 tomorrow. (Might be useful for poeple that want to recable their GR06.)
 
Jul 30, 2012 at 4:02 AM Post #8 of 19
I wanted to re-cable them with an original Apple cable w/ controls for ipod/iphone.
 
Best way to open them is to heat them slightly, then look where the cable enters the earpieces, on the outer side you'll see there's intentional space to insert a xacto knife (flatly) and do some force to pry it easily open.
 

 
As you see there's no cable knot inside, in fact, don't do one but use shrink tubing if you're not using the original cables (the cable "stoppers" are glued to the original cables) and yours are thinner,  add a drop of glue to seal the cable exit from the outside; try to leave the same length and cable volume that was inside originally as otherwise the sound will be vastly altered as I shockingly discovered on the first try...
 
It may be possible to cut the original black cable stoppers and pass the cable (if thinner) through them... but I didn't want to do that as that's irreversible and wanted to test the sound first without destroying the original cabling.
 
Aug 1, 2012 at 2:50 AM Post #10 of 19
Quote:
I wanted to re-cable them with an original Apple cable w/ controls for ipod/iphone.
 
Best way to open them is to heat them slightly, then look where the cable enters the earpieces, on the outer side you'll see there's intentional space to insert a xacto knife (flatly) and do some force to pry it easily open.
 

 
As you see there's no cable knot inside, in fact, don't do one but use shrink tubing if you're not using the original cables (the cable "stoppers" are glued to the original cables) and yours are thinner,  add a drop of glue to seal the cable exit from the outside; try to leave the same length and cable volume that was inside originally as otherwise the sound will be vastly altered as I shockingly discovered on the first try...
 
It may be possible to cut the original black cable stoppers and pass the cable (if thinner) through them... but I didn't want to do that as that's irreversible and wanted to test the sound first without destroying the original cabling.


hi bro, you've got pm :D
 
Nov 30, 2012 at 8:11 AM Post #13 of 19
Wow! So that's how it looks when disassembled. Please keep us posted regarding the cabling if any of you would give it a sure go. Let's see how significant the sound will change
biggrin.gif

 
 
Apr 12, 2013 at 6:58 AM Post #14 of 19
Quote:
I opened the housing up and measured the driver itself. It somehow increased to 100 ohms. Does anyone know how this could happen?
Will post a picture of the driver when I wake up tomorrow (Live in Belgium so time is different.)
 
EDIT: Found the problem.
It was driver flex, I never knew driver flex could cause these kind of problems. The resistance is now going down when I burn it in.
I will still post the picture of the insides of the GR06 tomorrow. (Might be useful for poeple that want to recable their GR06.)

 
Heavy driver flex... these drivers need more than 60 hours after soldering to go back to "normal" performance.
 
Just had to resolder the cable as an accidental trip to the washing mashine loosened the glue; after those burn-in hours the sound went back to "normal", and the "veil" that covered the sound right after the soldering went away.
 

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