[watchdog507]

Well, I don't know any equipment, which is able to fix this automatically. Does anyone know?

My point is that the V281 is true to the source. It will not add noticeable colouration to the music.

 

[PHC1]

through all my research to upgrade my Asgard 2 paired with the sennnhieser 800S. It always comes back to the 281 or 280.
The Asgard 2 is a very cold amp. I definitely need more warmth.
Sorry but I have too ask 1 more time as $2g on a amp is a big decision ..
Can I achieve substantial warmth upgrade of my Asgard (inexpensive solid state) with the purchase of the 281?
Thanks.

I have the Asgard 2, Valhalla 2 and Bryston BHA-1 that I am currently using with Senn HD600, 650, Focal Elear and Utopia. If you think the Asgard 2 is somehow a cold amp, I would suggest you listen to other headphones as the 800s may be the culprit of your unsatisfaction and chasing "warm" amps may prove futile. The Asgard 2 is a very smooth and slightly laid back Class A headphone amp by comparison to even the Valhalla 2 Triode OTL and Bryston BHA-1

 

[LCMusicLover]

I have the Asgard 2, Valhalla 2 and Bryston BHA-1 that I am currently using with Senn HD600, 650, Focal Elear and Utopia. If you think the Asgard 2 is somehow a cold amp, I would suggest you listen to other headphones as the 800s may be the culprit of your unsatisfaction and chasing "warm" amps may prove futile. The Asgard 2 is a very smooth and slightly laid back Class A headphone amp by comparison to even the Valhalla 2 Triode OTL and Bryston BHA-1

Similar to my opinion earlier.

Key point is that if you really are looking for a warmer amp, v280/281 probably isn't it. You could try a Liquid Carbon relatively cheaply. That would give you sense of where you might end up if you travel the 'warmer amp' road. However, it seems unlikely that any amp is going to get you to a 'warm' sound in front of the 800s. Warmer, yes. Warm, probably not.

 

[Pharmaboy]

Well, I don't know any equipment, which is able to fix this automatically. Does anyone know?

I've never heard of any equipment that's in the consumer realm that could process low bit-rate/low quality music to sound better. There are devices used for similar purposes in recording studios (complex 10+ octave EQ, de-click & other noise shaping digital devices), but these would probably be too expensive & large for the average home office/studio environment.

If you are able to actually download the low bitrate mp3 in question, you maybe be able to use a desktop app (not free) to upsample it--though I kind of doubt this would make a lot of difference (the old "garbage in/garbage out" principal).

 

[zhgutov]

I've never heard of any equipment that's in the consumer realm that could process low bit-rate/low quality music to sound better. There are devices used for similar purposes in recording studios (complex 10+ octave EQ, de-click & other noise shaping digital devices), but these would probably be too expensive & large for the average home office/studio environment.

I think more true to source devices may lead to better sound even with low quality recordings when there is no flaws like in the case 2.
There is no simple correlation between signal degradation during recording / mixing / mastering / lossy compression, and signal degradation in different playback systems.

I don't know, may be this is my own bias, but I don't think what hiss, clicks or something like this will always be an issue, and will lead to bad sound.
But I know what some equipment may be harsh or can put such things to your face, and this does not mean greater resolution or quality.
Another equipment may put music to the front. In this case people say that such peace of equipment is "musical", and this does not mean less resolution or quality.

If you are able to actually download the low bitrate mp3 in question, you maybe be able to use a desktop app (not free) to upsample it--though I kind of doubt this would make a lot of difference (the old "garbage in/garbage out" principal).

I have hardware resampler, but the resampling itself will not make it sound better.

 

[zek4u]

I think more true to source devices may lead to better sound even with low quality recordings when there is no flaws like in the case 2.
There is no simple correlation between signal degradation during recording / mixing / mastering / lossy compression, and signal degradation in different playback systems.

I don't know, may be this is my own bias, but I don't think what hiss, clicks or something like this will always be an issue, and will lead to bad sound.
But I know what some equipment may be harsh or can put such things to your face, and this does not mean greater resolution or quality.
Another equipment may put music to the front. In this case people say that such peace of equipment is "musical", and this does not mean less resolution or quality.


I have hardware resampler, but the resampling itself will not make it sound better.

My Chord 2Qute doesn't sound bright with my V281/HD800S headphones and sounds great even playing slightly compressed 16/44 redbook. Don't laugh but I've watching Stranger Things via Netflix from my noisy PC to my V281/HD800S headphones using a Peachtree Audio X1 Asynchronous 24/192 USB to SPDIF converter. Not sure what the bit rate is but I'm shocked how good it sounds! It's way better then any surround sound system I've heard. I hear every little detail without it ever sounding irritating or harsh. It's scary good!

 

[zek4u]

V281 update: just rewired my desktop system to test a feature of the V281 that's been discussed here -- its ability (or maybe not so able) to drive the L+R RCA outputs at the same time as the L+R 3-pin XLR outputs. This is how it's wired as of this morning:

1. RCA L+R outputs from the DAC (Audio GD NOS 19) connected to RCA L+R inputs on V281
2. RCA L+R outputs from V281 connected to inputs of subwoofer (SVS SB-1000 w/crossover set to 80Hz)
3. 3-pin XLR L+R outputs from the V281 connected to the L/R inputs of the monitors (Zenpro modded Yamaha HS7s)

I know going into this experiment that the sub vs monitors balancing may be out of whack (ie, their respective volume levels). We'll see how far off it is (if at all) when I crank the system later today. The other way the balancing may be out of whack is that the HS7s are now run full-range (before they were getting line level signal from the crossover >80Hz). Full-range sound out of the HS7s + regular subwoofer output may put a "hump" in the bass below 80Hz. Or not: the HS7s are described as losing volume below ~80 Hz, with the falloff per octave in the manner of any ported design.

There is one theoretical benefit of this rewiring scheme that I may already be hearing--fewer electronics in the chain. Before today, I obtained a balanced signal for the HS7s by running the RCA L+R outputs through a single ended-to-balanced converter (Aphex 124A, well regarded by music studio types). I believe that converter sounds pretty good to begin with--I wired the HS7s direct from its balanced outputs once & got the best sound I've yet heard from them--but now that the Aphex 124A is out of the chain, the HS7s' sound may improve a little. Listening to classical music low-volume now; definitely hearing that midrange clarity & details these monitors are known for.

(more to follow)

I ended up with a flatter sounding sealed Vandersteen VLR Wood speakers to use with my Belles Aria integrated amplifier. This is in a near field computer configuration. It seemed to integrate better then my Harbeth P3ERs with its elevated mid bass. First time ever I've ever gotten a subwoofer to blend perfectly. I'm using an REL sub off my speaker taps and the V281s fixed-out or pre-fader outputs feeding my integrated amplifier. Just sounds better to me then all the other combinations I've tried: post-fader into the integrated's A/V pass through or running off the tape outs to the V281. I still wish I had a Chord TT to run balanced to my V281 and unbalanced to my integrated but I'm content for now. Would rather spend the money improving my vinyl rig or getting a better A2D converter.

 

[armymanhaha]

Aside from being a headphone amplifier, I use my V281 as a preamp to my Musical Fidelity M6 PRX power amplifier for multimedia duties (ie movies, netflix, gaming). My power amp understandably goes hot in my country's hot weather although it dissipates heat quite well thanks to the fact that it has large heatsinks on its side.

However, I am concerned about my V281's longevity. It goes warm even when ventilated well (not hot as the power amp, duh) even on idle. This amp has been out for years now so I am wondering if you guys have had reliability issues? Do you think the V281 can last for decades if it stays on for 10-12 hours a day? Should I just turn it off when not in use, even though my next usage will just be in the next 20 mins? I know Violectric / Lake People devices are designed for professional use, but I dont know if in their world they do this sort of abuse to their equipment and if Violectric had longevity in mind.

At this point, I am thinking of getting a digital integrated amp (ala NAD 388) for multimedia usage instead not unless somebody can tell me what I am doing is fine. Let's not talk about power consumption differences to make replies to this inquiry short.

 

[PleasantSounds]

I would not recommend switching the amp off for short breaks in listening. That can do more harm than good.
Regarding the reliability - mine is early production (2014) and still going strong, with use between 6 and 12 hours per day. I can't say it gets too warm, at least when compared to some other gear I have. Looks like it has the potential to last for years.

 

[zhgutov]

My power amp understandably goes hot in my country's hot weather although it dissipates heat quite well thanks to the fact that it has large heatsinks on its side.
However, I am concerned about my V281's longevity. It goes warm even when ventilated well (not hot as the power amp, duh) even on idle. This amp has been out for years now so I am wondering if you guys have had reliability issues? Do you think the V281 can last for decades if it stays on for 10-12 hours a day?

My amp is almost always on. It is hot, like you described (warm, but not hot as the power amp). Even in idle. Looks like it is normal condition. It works this way more than 2 years already.
UPD. The temperature in my room is about 20°C.

 

[watchdog507]

I would not recommend switching the amp off for short breaks in listening. That can do more harm than good.
Regarding the reliability - mine is early production (2014) and still going strong, with use between 6 and 12 hours per day. I can't say it gets too warm, at least when compared to some other gear I have. Looks like it has the potential to last for years.

I would concur about the switching your gear off. It's not a great idea. One solution that could work is laptop cooling pads. They are cheap and I've used them before and they are effective. The only potential issues are RFI/EMI and vibration.. You would need to make sure your cooler is low emission. You would need to use some anti vibration supports/feet. There are many choices.

 

[Pharmaboy]

Aside from being a headphone amplifier, I use my V281 as a preamp to my Musical Fidelity M6 PRX power amplifier for multimedia duties (ie movies, netflix, gaming). My power amp understandably goes hot in my country's hot weather although it dissipates heat quite well thanks to the fact that it has large heatsinks on its side.

However, I am concerned about my V281's longevity. It goes warm even when ventilated well (not hot as the power amp, duh) even on idle. This amp has been out for years now so I am wondering if you guys have had reliability issues? Do you think the V281 can last for decades if it stays on for 10-12 hours a day? Should I just turn it off when not in use, even though my next usage will just be in the next 20 mins? I know Violectric / Lake People devices are designed for professional use, but I dont know if in their world they do this sort of abuse to their equipment and if Violectric had longevity in mind.

At this point, I am thinking of getting a digital integrated amp (ala NAD 388) for multimedia usage instead not unless somebody can tell me what I am doing is fine. Let's not talk about power consumption differences to make replies to this inquiry short.

I don't use my V281 every single day (I have other amp/preamps and sometimes switch it out). But when I do use it, such as right now, it's on ~12-14 hrs/day, acting as both pre-amp & headphone amp.

Just checked, and it's very slightly warm (the old "hand-on-the-case" test). I'm not even sure it's as warm as body temp.

Hard to be sure about the future w/my (purchased used) V281, but it's giving every indication of being as bullet-proof as an amp gets.

 

[armymanhaha]

I also have a musical fidelity a3.2 preamp here but it is not in the same league as the v281. The a3.2 makes music sound full but hollow at the same time. Thats why i use the v281 because everything sounds 'right' with it when paired with my power amp, so you can see my concern because it is not designed to be one's main preamp in the first place.

But with that being said, I appreciate all your inputs here. It does feel like the V281 is built like a tank so maybe my worries are unfounded.

 

[13713]

On the discussion of heat and operating temps I have my stack on for about 9-12 hours a day and it gets warm but not hot. Operating temps like this seem normal I use mine in my PC chain at the moment so when I work or play games it is on and running.

 

[Badas]

V281 doesn't operate hot. My Yggy DAC gets hotter.

I also have many Home Theater products that get super hot compared to the V281.
They have been in operation for 5 years with no issues.
If they are designed to take the heat then it's okay.

My HT components get waaaaaay hotter: