watchdog507
100+ Head-Fier
Well, I don't know any equipment, which is able to fix this automatically. Does anyone know?
My point is that the V281 is true to the source. It will not add noticeable colouration to the music.
Well, I don't know any equipment, which is able to fix this automatically. Does anyone know?
I have the Asgard 2, Valhalla 2 and Bryston BHA-1 that I am currently using with Senn HD600, 650, Focal Elear and Utopia. If you think the Asgard 2 is somehow a cold amp, I would suggest you listen to other headphones as the 800s may be the culprit of your unsatisfaction and chasing "warm" amps may prove futile. The Asgard 2 is a very smooth and slightly laid back Class A headphone amp by comparison to even the Valhalla 2 Triode OTL and Bryston BHA-1through all my research to upgrade my Asgard 2 paired with the sennnhieser 800S. It always comes back to the 281 or 280.
The Asgard 2 is a very cold amp. I definitely need more warmth.
Sorry but I have too ask 1 more time as $2g on a amp is a big decision ..
Can I achieve substantial warmth upgrade of my Asgard (inexpensive solid state) with the purchase of the 281?
Thanks.
I have the Asgard 2, Valhalla 2 and Bryston BHA-1 that I am currently using with Senn HD600, 650, Focal Elear and Utopia. If you think the Asgard 2 is somehow a cold amp, I would suggest you listen to other headphones as the 800s may be the culprit of your unsatisfaction and chasing "warm" amps may prove futile. The Asgard 2 is a very smooth and slightly laid back Class A headphone amp by comparison to even the Valhalla 2 Triode OTL and Bryston BHA-1
Well, I don't know any equipment, which is able to fix this automatically. Does anyone know?
I think more true to source devices may lead to better sound even with low quality recordings when there is no flaws like in the case 2.I've never heard of any equipment that's in the consumer realm that could process low bit-rate/low quality music to sound better. There are devices used for similar purposes in recording studios (complex 10+ octave EQ, de-click & other noise shaping digital devices), but these would probably be too expensive & large for the average home office/studio environment.
I have hardware resampler, but the resampling itself will not make it sound better.If you are able to actually download the low bitrate mp3 in question, you maybe be able to use a desktop app (not free) to upsample it--though I kind of doubt this would make a lot of difference (the old "garbage in/garbage out" principal).
I think more true to source devices may lead to better sound even with low quality recordings when there is no flaws like in the case 2.
There is no simple correlation between signal degradation during recording / mixing / mastering / lossy compression, and signal degradation in different playback systems.
I don't know, may be this is my own bias, but I don't think what hiss, clicks or something like this will always be an issue, and will lead to bad sound.
But I know what some equipment may be harsh or can put such things to your face, and this does not mean greater resolution or quality.
Another equipment may put music to the front. In this case people say that such peace of equipment is "musical", and this does not mean less resolution or quality.
I have hardware resampler, but the resampling itself will not make it sound better.
V281 update: just rewired my desktop system to test a feature of the V281 that's been discussed here -- its ability (or maybe not so able) to drive the L+R RCA outputs at the same time as the L+R 3-pin XLR outputs. This is how it's wired as of this morning:
- RCA L+R outputs from the DAC (Audio GD NOS 19) connected to RCA L+R inputs on V281
- RCA L+R outputs from V281 connected to inputs of subwoofer (SVS SB-1000 w/crossover set to 80Hz)
- 3-pin XLR L+R outputs from the V281 connected to the L/R inputs of the monitors (Zenpro modded Yamaha HS7s)
I know going into this experiment that the sub vs monitors balancing may be out of whack (ie, their respective volume levels). We'll see how far off it is (if at all) when I crank the system later today. The other way the balancing may be out of whack is that the HS7s are now run full-range (before they were getting line level signal from the crossover >80Hz). Full-range sound out of the HS7s + regular subwoofer output may put a "hump" in the bass below 80Hz. Or not: the HS7s are described as losing volume below ~80 Hz, with the falloff per octave in the manner of any ported design.
There is one theoretical benefit of this rewiring scheme that I may already be hearing--fewer electronics in the chain. Before today, I obtained a balanced signal for the HS7s by running the RCA L+R outputs through a single ended-to-balanced converter (Aphex 124A, well regarded by music studio types). I believe that converter sounds pretty good to begin with--I wired the HS7s direct from its balanced outputs once & got the best sound I've yet heard from them--but now that the Aphex 124A is out of the chain, the HS7s' sound may improve a little. Listening to classical music low-volume now; definitely hearing that midrange clarity & details these monitors are known for.
(more to follow)
My amp is almost always on. It is hot, like you described (warm, but not hot as the power amp). Even in idle. Looks like it is normal condition. It works this way more than 2 years already.My power amp understandably goes hot in my country's hot weather although it dissipates heat quite well thanks to the fact that it has large heatsinks on its side.
However, I am concerned about my V281's longevity. It goes warm even when ventilated well (not hot as the power amp, duh) even on idle. This amp has been out for years now so I am wondering if you guys have had reliability issues? Do you think the V281 can last for decades if it stays on for 10-12 hours a day?
I would not recommend switching the amp off for short breaks in listening. That can do more harm than good.
Regarding the reliability - mine is early production (2014) and still going strong, with use between 6 and 12 hours per day. I can't say it gets too warm, at least when compared to some other gear I have. Looks like it has the potential to last for years.
Aside from being a headphone amplifier, I use my V281 as a preamp to my Musical Fidelity M6 PRX power amplifier for multimedia duties (ie movies, netflix, gaming). My power amp understandably goes hot in my country's hot weather although it dissipates heat quite well thanks to the fact that it has large heatsinks on its side.
However, I am concerned about my V281's longevity. It goes warm even when ventilated well (not hot as the power amp, duh) even on idle. This amp has been out for years now so I am wondering if you guys have had reliability issues? Do you think the V281 can last for decades if it stays on for 10-12 hours a day? Should I just turn it off when not in use, even though my next usage will just be in the next 20 mins? I know Violectric / Lake People devices are designed for professional use, but I dont know if in their world they do this sort of abuse to their equipment and if Violectric had longevity in mind.
At this point, I am thinking of getting a digital integrated amp (ala NAD 388) for multimedia usage instead not unless somebody can tell me what I am doing is fine. Let's not talk about power consumption differences to make replies to this inquiry short.