[bcowen]

One last thing, I have many pairs of hemostats but the ones I use for this application do not have a huge amount of grip strength, I would not run the risk of flattening out the inside portion of a tube pin so be careful if you buy brand new ones and keep the pin toward the end where there is less force applied.

I've been using a pure copper alligator clip which seems to work OK. Was just wondering if you were using something fancier or jealousy-inducing. We use something a little more robust at work on the stainless panel welder -- 42 lb copper billet plates.

 

[Paladin79]

Here is a better view of the hemostats I use for this application. I just re-soldered the pins in this black glass after removing the old solder. I am using a fairly high heat tip with a good amount of surface area so I do not have to stay on each pin very long. As I said earlier your new solder joints need to be nice and shiny when done, if you get something that looks milky or cloudy, re-apply rosin and try again.

These hemostats have about a 30 degree bend so they stay out of the way so I really like them for this application. Copper is a better conductor of heat, just as it is with electricity but the surface area of these help and do the job for me.

This black glass tube was sold at a reduced price because it was considered microphonic. So far in my listening, it is now as solid as it can be. I used some solder with a bit of silver in it, I gave this one special care.

 

[bcowen]

Here is a better view of the hemostats I use for this application. I just re-soldered the pins in this black glass after removing the old solder. I am using a fairly high heat tip with a good amount of surface area so I do not have to stay on each pin very long. As I said earlier your new solder joints need to be nice and shiny when done, if you get something that looks milky or cloudy, re-apply rosin and try again.

These hemostats have about a 30 degree bend so they stay out of the way so I really like them for this application. Copper is a better conductor of heat, just as it is with electricity but the surface area of these help and do the job for me.

This black glass tube was sold at a reduced price because it was considered microphonic. So far in my listening, it is now as solid as it can be. I used some solder with a bit of silver in it, I gave this one special care.

That's a hemostat? I thought it was a roach clip.

Making a note if it now...

 

[Paladin79]

Ok I checked my Melz and the solder work from the factory looks awful. It is grey and cracked. I removed that solder and used the good stuff. The pins seem a bit different than US pins as well. I can see why folks say you need to re-flow the solder on the Melz lol, good thing they sound great when they work.

 

[bcowen]

Ok I checked my Melz and the solder work from the factory looks awful. It is grey and cracked. I removed that solder and used the good stuff. The pins seem a bit different than US pins as well. I can see why folks say you need to re-flow the solder on the Melz lol, good thing they sound great when they work.

I measured the pins on the Melz at .08". A handful of other 6SN7's all measure at .09" or more. Doesn't seem like .01" would make that big a difference, but it sure can and especially if the socket contacts are stretched out to .09" from other 6SN7's.

 

[Paladin79]

I measured the pins on the Melz at .08". A handful of other 6SN7's all measure at .09" or more. Doesn't seem like .01" would make that big a difference, but it sure can and especially if the socket contacts are stretched out to .09" from other 6SN7's.

I did not pull out a micrometer but I could tell when I re-soldered them they were smaller. Luckily the silver solder i was using was a bit smaller than the .o31 as well. I need to get my second Melz done cause it probably looks as bad as the first, mine are from two different years.

 

[Robert Padgett]

That's a hemostat? I thought it was a roach clip.

Making a note if it now...

I am curious if you have seen issues of this type with the ribbed plate Fotons from 1951-52. I ask because I have noticed if a bit of whining and static sounds as the Fotons warm up, and then when I start playing music, all is well, and dead silent when I stop the music. Only on cold start-up has this been observed. Thanks, and this could be totally unrelated to the solder issues.

 

[bcowen]

I am curious if you have seen issues of this type with the ribbed plate Fotons from 1951-52. I ask because I have noticed if a bit of whining and static sounds as the Fotons warm up, and then when I start playing music, all is well, and dead silent when I stop the music. Only on cold start-up has this been observed. Thanks, and this could be totally unrelated to the solder issues.

I haven't had any issues with the Fotons. A bit of a faint tinkling or pinging type sound when a tube is warming up is not at all unusual and no cause for concern (in and of itself). If it was a solder issue you'd likely hear it beyond the warm-up period.

 

[Ripper2860]

A bit of a faint tinkling or pinging type sound when a tube is warming up is not at all unusual and no cause for concern

On the other hand, if you're seeing Tinky-winky while your tubes are warming -- seek help immediately!!

 

[Paladin79]

I haven't had any issues with the Fotons. A bit of a faint tinkling or pinging type sound when a tube is warming up is not at all unusual and no cause for concern (in and of itself). If it was a solder issue you'd likely hear it beyond the warm-up period.

Different factory, different solder techniques perhaps. I re-soldered the pins on an old Tung Sol power tube and like to never got solder to stick, just older pins and lots of time had passed. My Melz had not given me any issues but may have eventually by the looks of the solder. Now they are good for many years to come.

 

[bcowen]

On the other hand, if you're seeing Tinky-winky while your tubes are warming -- seek help immediately!!

And some are beyond help, obviously.

 

[Ripper2860]

If I didn't amuse myself, I'd go crazy!!

 

[HellooooThar]

Guys...I fixed my DAC. Something came over me tonight, and in a fit of frustration in plugged and unplugged it from USB about 150 times. Suddenly the box went *click* like it normally does when it gets a signal, and BAM: 32 bit, 192 decoding like it used to (I dont have any 32, 768 DSD files to test that out ). No idea how my 150 power cycles explains a working DAC, but it does.

 

[Ripper2860]

Happy to hear you got it sorted out. It gets power via USB, I believe. Do you think it might be a spotty USB cable?

 

[Keno18]

Guys...I fixed my DAC. Something came over me tonight, and in a fit of frustration in plugged and unplugged it from USB about 150 times. Suddenly the box went *click* like it normally does when it gets a signal, and BAM: 32 bit, 192 decoding like it used to (I dont have any 32, 768 DSD files to test that out ). No idea how my 150 power cycles explains a working DAC, but it does.

Could the cable be intermittent?