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The Zishan dsd's corner

Discussion in 'Portable Source Gear' started by neog007, Nov 17, 2016.
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  1. PochoLaPantera
    Hi, thanks.
    I want to do a mod for one time only. I can't go testing since I don't have much money. that's why I ask here, since they have a lot of experience in this thread and I wanted a mod where it works wonderfully. I will do it only for once time.
    Thank you. I appreciate
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 17, 2019
  2. PochoLaPantera
    1.PNG 2.PNG 3.PNG 4.PNG
    Amazing work i want to know to do that
    i can find this things in my country but Which of them should I buy?
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2019
    DBaldock9 likes this.
  3. Ivan TT
    Hola, @PochoLaPantera!
    Firstly, please don't worry about your English, significant number of people on this thread are not native English speakers (including myself), and we are hear to help each other in pursuit of elusive HiFi sound, so as long as we can understand and relate to each other language is not an issue.
    Fair enough, there are few significant improvements one can do on a budget, but some of them while cheap require skills/tools that you may not have, either find someone who can do it for you for free or for small fee.

    #1. Learn how to open your DSD without damaging it. It's VERY important as few people here and elsewhere damaged screens on day 1, ouch!
    After undoing screws and removing side plates I push (gently!) from USB port side and then help the board slide out grabbing it by its sides when it slides out.
    Pushing it back in should NOT be done with any force, insure that top digital board (the one with LCD screen) slides into dedicated slots before pushing it back in, I also filed/shaved a bit of aluminium inside of the casing on the top side edge opposite from LCD screen so that the battery is not damaged in the process, it helps a lot.
    Watch LCD screen when the boards are out, it's very fragile!

    #2. Replace LM4562 with genuine part, I believe arrow.com delivers to many countries (and the delivery is free!), can you check from your side?
    https://www.arrow.com/en/products/lm4562nanopb/texas-instruments

    #3. This and following step will require hot air soldering station and skills, I do not recommend buying one unless you plan to do "no stone left unturned" type of mods (like myself and some others here), but it's expensive for one-off mod. I heard some people had luck with local electronics/mobile phones repair stores (those guys who hack XBOXes and PSs are good too), give it a go.
    You need to buy this lot:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10P...MFX-LP5907-LLVB-IC-REG-LDO-3/32843589082.html
    and replace ALL LDO's on the digital board (x5) and 1 one the bottom of analog/DAC board, labelled DE=A1D
    You will also need to buy this:
    https://www.arrow.com/en/products/tps73250dbvt/texas-instruments
    And replace 1 LDO labelled 48MD (can someone please confirm it's correct label in stock DSD?) on the analog/DAC board. I don't have ability to post photos now, but will do it when (and if) you get parts.

    #4. Replace two oscillators on digital board with these, insuring correct frequency is followed as printed on stock parts:
    https://www.arrow.com/en/products/dsc1001di2-045.1584/microchip-technology
    https://www.arrow.com/en/products/dsc1001di2-049.1520/microchip-technology
    They are a bit smaller in size but experienced person with hot air station should not have any difficulties.

    All in all I think it's less than $10 in parts + labour but these mods should improve your DSD's sound considerably.

    #5. Replace LPF opamps. This one is tricky as there's too many options (from cheap to VERY expensive) and this will require desoldering/soldering in 4 capacitors that are placed on top of LPF opamps in addition to the opamps themsleves. I would try reseacrhing what people say about these: AD823, AD8599, OP275 (genuine/original) AD8620, OPA1688 and check what is within your budget too. I'm sure some other forum members will add their recommendations as well. Or do what I did and remove LPF circuit altogether, no need to buy expensive opamps, problem solved! :floatsmile:

    #6. Audio decoupling capacitors. This is usually step #2 (after changing DIP8 opamp), but removed them from my DSD and other Zishans too, so other forum members are better placed to recommend replacements.
    @ThanosD and @Merlin-PT recommend these and FM series are well-regarded as decoupling capacitors in audiophile circles:
    https://www.arrow.com/en/products/eeu-fm1a221/panasonic

    Hope it helps and most importantly, enjoy the journey!

    PS: I would NOT recommend taking things any further until you have basic stuff done, especially if you don't have much experience as damaging your DSD beyond repair is a real danger (I did it couple of times but fortunately managed to fix the damage). But unless you are prepared to accept total loss beyond repair EVERY TIME you attempt anything more advanced, DON'T DO IT!
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2019
    iano, nesty, endia and 2 others like this.
  4. PochoLaPantera
  5. Ivan TT
    PochoLaPantera likes this.
  6. ThanosD
    Damn, I am too slow. Ivan basically covered everything. I can speak for the output caps, since I changed them, and had a great effect on the sound.

    Regarding where to buy stuff, this is a quote from arrow's shipping restrictions:
    "We do not ship orders to North Korea, Cuba, Iraq, Iran, Libya, Sudan, Syria, nor to the Crimea, Donetsk or Lugansk Regions of Ukraine."
    So I think they can ship to you. They have free international shipping, and veru fast delivery time! I really recommend them
     
  7. PochoLaPantera
  8. Ivan TT
    What do you recommend by the way?
     
  9. ThanosD
    This is the one I went with. It was recommended to me (unfortunately I don't remember by who), and it made the sound a bit more dynamic, and improve bass response. Back then, there were a couple more recommended to me as alternatives to try, but there is no way I am finding that conversation.
     
  10. Ivan TT
    Cool, thanks!
    It was @Merlin-PT
    Updated my long post on previous page.
     
  11. PochoLaPantera
    The last one, @Ivan TT
    I want to know with the materials that I must buy and also ask someone to weld me. I was finding out and the prices I get the same as buying a Hiby R3. In terms of sound the Zishan dsd ak4497 with the mods will be better than the Hiby R3 or some dap close to that price?
    Thanks and sorry!
     
    DBaldock9 likes this.
  12. Ivan TT
    Sorry, I never had Hiby R3. I did extensive listening comparison to Chord Mojo (about US $500 currently), I like my DSD better, but it's very subjective.
    Having said that modding is a high-risk activity and quite a niche game, if in any doubt tere's plenty of quality DAPs out there that sound great and have awesome features (like R3).
     
  13. Themilkman46290
    Well i havent heard the r3, but i also havent heard alot of mainstream daps that can go against a modded zishan dsd, hibby r3 is more convenient i am sure, and also will play better with more low z gear. Honestly a nicely modded dsd can go against most mainstream daps in the $300 level and a really modded dsd can surely go against the $400-500 level. but this is my opinion, i have only listened to the fiio x1mkii, x3 mkiii, the x5 mkii, xduoo x10, f. Audio s1, ibasso dx50, dx90, dx120, and other zishans and walnut daps, and i felt the zishan dsd with mods put them all to shame, altho the ibasso dx90 still intrigues me (lots of mods out there)
     
    PochoLaPantera, nesty and DBaldock9 like this.
  14. Merlin-PT
    The list are some that I liked, but only based on stock/availability in arrow.com and size that could fit:
    https://www.head-fi.org/threads/the-zishan-dsds-corner.826185/page-116#post-14773107

    There are more cap brands/models recommended by others that I want to try.


    @PochoLaPantera
    Regarding opening the box, there's one more thing to add about the gold color buttons, they are loose, they are not fixed to any place and will fall.

    If you open the box, with the buttons side up and slide the LCD screen out into the buttons direction, the buttons will fall inside the box into the LCD and scratch it.

    So never slide the LCD screen out of the box in the direction of the golden buttons, the boards must go out slowly in the other direction.
    Also have the buttons side facing down, so they don't fall into the board and scratch it.

    This problem was reported by some users and is a great warning for all of us.


    @Themilkman46290
    I decided on those you see in the last photo because of small size, it's a compromise for size/capacity/price.
    We need 6.3 V, low ESR, high capacity, up to 2200uF is recommend in the datasheet.
    I was already happy with 1000uF, but used lower capacity (2x220uF = 440uF each side) because of size/price.
    If you have space inside the box, Ivan recommends better options, because of higher capacity.
    There are a few more posts after the one I quote.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2019
    iano, PochoLaPantera, endia and 3 others like this.
  15. Themilkman46290
    Thanks dude, i appreciate it.

    is the side where the white box underneath it gets bolder the - side or is that the +?
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2019
    DBaldock9 and Merlin-PT like this.
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