[Chefguru]

Does anyone have a video showing removal of the 007 pads? I've seen video of placing a new pad onto a cup, but am unclear how to pull them off as doing the process in reverse doesn't seem to work. Perhaps I'm not trying hard enough, but it's an old 70xxx mk1, so I don't want to accidently damage anything.

 

[oneguy]

Never done a mk1 but I didn’t the mk2 based on the posts here and it worked as advertised for both on and off.

 

[yaluen]

Does anyone have a video showing removal of the 007 pads? I've seen video of placing a new pad onto a cup, but am unclear how to pull them off as doing the process in reverse doesn't seem to work. Perhaps I'm not trying hard enough, but it's an old 70xxx mk1, so I don't want to accidently damage anything.

https://streamable.com/zcp8gx

Can give the spring a wiggle if the center pin is stuck in the grommet.

 

[Chefguru]

Never done a mk1 but I didn’t the mk2 based on the posts here and it worked as advertised for both on and off.

https://streamable.com/zcp8gx

Can give the spring a wiggle if the center pin is stuck in the grommet.

Thank you both

 

[Therkild]

Hi all.
A set of Stax Lambda Signature Professionel and SRM-1/mk2 has come up locally for sale in Denmark for 300€.
Will probably need re-capping etc but still a fair price as far as I can see, but what`s your opinion?

 

[alota]

Hi all.
A set of Stax Lambda Signature Progessionel and SRM-1/mk2 has come up locally for sale in Denmark for 300€.
Will probably need re-capping etc but still a fair price as far as I can see, but what`s your opinion?

Well. I bought srm-1 mk2 on ebay for 320 and sold for 280. With headphone is really good price. And imho the amp is really good

 

[aokman]

Hi all.
A set of Stax Lambda Signature Professionel and SRM-1/mk2 has come up locally for sale in Denmark for 300€.
Will probably need re-capping etc but still a fair price as far as I can see, but what`s your opinion?

Recapping is good but mine tested perfectly anyway when I removed the caps… Biggest things I found worth doing is redo the thermal paste on the outputs and redo the calibrations / multi turn trimmers are good if you can find something to handle the voltages.

Im currently benchmarking the SRM-1 against my modded SRD-7 and Lundahl and it seems to perform well with a decently flat FR but some weird results in the higher frequencies / very load sensitive.

 

[Zoide]

Hi, I recently bought a 2-year old SR-007 Mk2 (blu-tack and spring modded), and they just don't seem to fit right.

The fabric at the sides of the head pad looks very saggy and loose.
See how the pad just falls down with no support if I angle the headphones:

And if I put them upside down, the head pad stretches almost all the way down to the metal arc:

So... Is that normal?

Also, I read that the ear pads should be worn with the thick part facing the back of one's head. So if the opening is shaped like a "D", the straight part of the "D" would go to the rear. And this is supposed to be important for the drivers to be angled properly relative to the ears. However, if I do that I don't feel like they seal well in the front of my ear, and in fact they seem to fit better backwards (thick part of the pads / round part of the "D" opening in front).

EDIT: Never mind, I think I got the pads to fit OK with the thick part facing backwards. I think I just need to press the metal arcs together a bit so they clamp harder.
I still need to figure out what's wrong with the head pad, though. It doesn't feel like it's doing much.

Thanks

 

[ufospls2]

Interesting new amp from iFi. I'm supposing it's some sort of combo of the iESL and iCAN Pro using transformers for the e-stat section?

Called the iCAN Phantom

 

[aokman]

I’m glad it supports high res audio… on a more serious note thats a wild design haha

 

[alota]

I’m glad it supports high res audio… on a more serious note thats a wild design haha

Imspired by captain Nemo

 

[cayfounnosett1982]

(ideally second-hand to keep costs down):

1. Stax 007mk2
2. JM Audio XTC
3. Hifiman HE1000v2
4. Stax L700mk2?
5. Others?

I think l300 should be added to the list
they very cheap
and because of the shape of the driver, they do not have the same sound as round omegas
and I like modern stax first of all because they don’t have old foam rubber from the 1970s
like in old stax and in general, it seems to me that time does not work in favor of electrostats
membrane tension may loosen over time
stator insulation may also start to not be as good
so it seems to me that the cheapest modern stax
are a good choice for second-hand to keep costs down

 

[Homrsimson]

In case anyone is looking to pick up a like new stax 400s amp, I’ve got one for sale (and happy to consider reasonable offers):

https://www.head-fi.org/classifieds/stax-srm-400s-electrostatic-headphone-amplifier.47121/

 

[BTD1]

Interesting new amp from iFi. I'm supposing it's some sort of combo of the iESL and iCAN Pro using transformers for the e-stat section?

Called the iCAN Phantom

Apparently, the "cartridges" are to keep folks from selecting the wrong bias. My question is what happens if you have, say, an x9000 and you select 600 or 620 bias, as is easy to do on the original IESL. Will the higher bias damage the phones?

 

[catscratch]

Hi, I recently bought a 2-year old SR-007 Mk2 (blu-tack and spring modded), and they just don't seem to fit right.

The fabric at the sides of the head pad looks very saggy and loose.
See how the pad just falls down with no support if I angle the headphones:

...

Also, I read that the ear pads should be worn with the thick part facing the back of one's head. So if the opening is shaped like a "D", the straight part of the "D" would go to the rear. And this is supposed to be important for the drivers to be angled properly relative to the ears. However, if I do that I don't feel like they seal well in the front of my ear, and in fact they seem to fit better backwards (thick part of the pads / round part of the "D" opening in front).

EDIT: Never mind, I think I got the pads to fit OK with the thick part facing backwards. I think I just need to press the metal arcs together a bit so they clamp harder.
I still need to figure out what's wrong with the head pad, though. It doesn't feel like it's doing much.

Thanks

I can't see your pics, but what I can say is that the thicker part of the earpad should be behind and below the ear. A good way to align them is to angle the seam in the earpads towards your temple, this way the thick part of the pad is about where it should be (assuming the seam in the pad is exactly opposite the thicker part).

The headband can be bent mercilessly to create as much or as little clamp as you want, and angle the earcups however you want them to be.

The elastic that holds the headband will stretch and loosen up over time. This is normal, but if it no longer holds the headband where you want it to be, you can simply replace the elastic. Right above the earpads you see two little plastic tabs held in by screws, remove the screws and the tabs and you'll see how the elastic attaches. Simply get another elastic from a crafts store or wherever, cut it down to size, cut a little hole for the post and reattach it with adhesive. The headband itself slides off the elastic freely. It's a simple mechanism though it could definitely be more user serviceable.

I also hate the whole elastic system cause the headphones just aren't big enough for my distended head and the best way to get them to fit is to take the damn thing off entirely, and put some padding around the headband instead. Self-adjusting systems just mean they adjust themselves badly.

It's a tricky headphone to get good sound out of but it scales VERY high in a good system.