[bigjako]

A bit of a specific question/request for the Stax folks, but I've searched high and low and found only one video that shows it. I've tried searching for the EP-007 user manual, too, with no luck. Does anyone have any instructions or know of any guides for replacing the SR-007 (mk1, if it matters) earpads? I'm afraid of doing damage.

Do I put the metal ring in first, then install the earned over that (and the flange of the cups), or take the metal ring out, install into the pads first, then install the merged assembly onto the cups, as per the video. The guy in the video had to swap methods midway through so I'm trying to source the wisdom of the experts before manhandling these. Any tips or warnings are appreciated.

 

[nepherte]

I left out the metal ring altogether on my 007A. Seems to work just fine.

 

[padam]

A bit of a specific question/request for the Stax folks, but I've searched high and low and found only one video that shows it. I've tried searching for the EP-007 user manual, too, with no luck. Does anyone have any instructions or know of any guides for replacing the SR-007 (mk1, if it matters) earpads? I'm afraid of doing damage.

Do I put the metal ring in first, then install the earned over that (and the flange of the cups), or take the metal ring out, install into the pads first, then install the merged assembly onto the cups, as per the video. The guy in the video had to swap methods midway through so I'm trying to source the wisdom of the experts before manhandling these. Any tips or warnings are appreciated.

Here is the manual

But the video shows it perfectly, they go on together.

 

[yaluen]

Definitely spring into the pads then middle pin into the grommet first, else you risk poking the drivers. Instead of pinching and pulling the flap into place as in the video, I like to slide a small section of the flap into the gap first (maybe hold it in place with a thumb) and with a couple fingers in the ear cavity push the entire earpad assembly outward laterally, working around and slipping in the rest of the flap. Dunno if that's clear, am away from home at the moment or I could make a video, ping me in a couple days if you still need.

 

[bigjako]

Amazingly helpful, thank you everyone! I took off the stocks to clean and ordered 2 replacements from Vesper Audio (one as close to stock as possible and the other with some alacantra to see how that impacts the sound, primarily the treble). Since I'm going to have to install them twice in the next month I may try nephrite's idea to not use the ring on the first install.

 

[yaluen]

Video from Stax, maybe try with an Allen wrench or similar:

 

[bigjako]

Video from Stax, maybe try with an Allen wrench or similar:

Thank you, that's the best video yet. I really must get one of those little hook tools he uses, seems like it would useful for a lot of earned replacements.

 

[lostrockets]

Amazingly helpful, thank you everyone! I took off the stocks to clean and ordered 2 replacements from Vesper Audio (one as close to stock as possible and the other with some alacantra to see how that impacts the sound, primarily the treble). Since I'm going to have to install them twice in the next month I may try nephrite's idea to not use the ring on the first install.

how come youre getting vesper instead of stock replacements?

 

[lostrockets]

Supposedly sounds more "transistor like": more ooommppff, "harder" and colder sound than the standard tubes. Difference between the various makers of 6S4A seem to be rather small; most liked seem to be the NOS RCA or GE types which have gotten a bit rare these days.

If I may quote "SPRITZER" from 2012, he stated: "The 6S4/6S4A were only made by a few manufacturers so not a whole lot of variation there and they have much less of an impact than the input tubes."

Was wondering if I should get one 007T modified for me, too, hence why I had looked into that; but haven't made a decision yet ... also since I have my ANTARES tube hybrid already and a ECC99/CCS modded T1.

thanks for the tip, i just replaced the tubes with an extra set i bought and theres barely any noticeable difference.

dominik stritt does the 007ta black forest i believe is what youd want

 

[mulveling]

In 100's of tubes and dozens of tube components, I've yet to encounter a tube roll that didn't yield SOME kind of interesting sonic difference. Including many instance of "tube rolling that slot won't make much difference" (like follower / output slots). So I'm skeptical whenever that's asserted. That said, I didn't try rolling 6S4A when I had a KGST. It's possible 2 of the same tube may have different brand labels (very common). Are there any notable construction differences between the USA brands of this type? I guess it's also possible late production USA Sylvania / Philips ECG / GE / RCA were converging into a very similar "quality".

 

[KDS315]

dominik stritt does the 007ta black forest i believe is what youd want

I know Dominik well, he did my T1m4 (ECC99/CCS) mod and I picked it up at his house...

 

[droido256]

Question. What are the meaningful differences between the L-300 and L-700 physically. Besides that star brace on the L-700. To my naked (and no doubt amateur) eye. I don’t really see much difference. What is my curious eye missing. Yes to the ear overall the L-700 is better. A lot better But what makes it , 1300$ better. Just my curiosity. Both are jeez crazy in difference to the planars and high end dynamics. Given there’s no voice coil, and both look like the drivers are the same size, what does comparing electrostatic to electrostatic entail?

 

[SolarCetacean]

Question. What are the meaningful differences between the L-300 and L-700 physically. Besides that star brace on the L-700. To my naked (and no doubt amateur) eye. I don’t really see much difference. What is my curious eye missing. Yes to the ear overall the L-700 is better. A lot better But what makes it , 1300$ better. Just my curiosity. Both are jeez crazy in difference to the planars and high end dynamics. Given there’s no voice coil, and both look like the drivers are the same size, what does comparing electrostatic to electrostatic entail?

The biggest difference would probably be the earpads. The earpads are a lot thicker on the L700 vs the L300. Earpads have a very significant effect on the sound of a headphone, and my experience is that electrostatic headphones are even more sensitive to earpad changes than non-electrostatic ones. One common mod is to place L700 earpads on the L300, which some people prefer over either the L300 or L700.

The star brace on the L700 looks to be part of the driver design (electrodes maybe?). Electrostatic drivers are differentiated by a bunch of factors, like diaphragm thickness, stator/electrode design and placement, and a bunch of other things that more knowledgeable people will fill in.

A third aspect of the L700 design is its increased physical durability of the non-driver portions. A common failure point on the L300 is the headband arc snapping (especially if L700 pads are mounted on it). The L700 (particularly the mk2 version) uses more durable components. The L300 uses synthetic leather for its earpads while parts of the L700 earpads use real leather, which adds to the cost.

 

[CT007]

the L700 earpads use real leather, which adds to the cost

$150(used to be $130 recently) to be precise. Used them on my L300, and never the stock pads. Essential.
https://staxaudio.com/earpad/stax-ep-l700-earpad

 

[zolkis]

The biggest difference would probably be the earpads. The earpads are a lot thicker on the L700 vs the L300. Earpads have a very significant effect on the sound of a headphone, and my experience is that electrostatic headphones are even more sensitive to earpad changes than non-electrostatic ones. One common mod is to place L700 earpads on the L300, which some people prefer over either the L300 or L700.

I agree. I prefer circular drivers with shallow pads with large opening (SR-X Mk3/Pro, Gamma Pro, 007, 009, Phenomenon Libratum), but in the case of Lambda the thicker pads may work better. The large rectangular drivers create some more diffuse sound stage, and all Lambdas are a little bit harder sounding than say a 007 Mk1, or Mk2.

Sometimes the housing may cause too much interference, too. The Stax 009 is a clear example of that, e.g. the front metallic grill acting like a lot of secondary sound sources, creating a harder sound with more high frequency hash. When I listened to @thinker 's modded 009s, they seems a lot calmer and far more musical than they were before. In fact, I think it's one of the very best headphones in existence - keeping the 4K presence bump, but enveloped in a transparent and relaxed musicality it simply didn't have before. Good tube amps help that a lot.

Another example that comes to mind that people report the 007 Mk1 drivers sound better in the SR-Omega housing, somewhat comparable to the original. I never heard such a mullet, but I can relate to the plausibility of these statements.