[Rhamnetin]

If you want to minimize capacitance then going for a Phono cable is an easy play, but usually the AWG will be very small as well.

I’ve used and liked silver Audioquest cables - Wind, Fire, and Wild are good, and come up used at big discounts. Not as low capacitance as their Phono cables, but easily low enough to not cause problems.

Thanks, I think I'll borrow a Wind. I'll have to look around for used interconnects, maybe Audiogon since there don't seem to be a lot of them for sale here.

I guess that also raises the question: is there an audible difference with an SR-009 system between low enough capacitance and ultra low? Assuming other variables don't differ too wildly.

 

[SeaWo|f]

Idk if anyone has experience with them but dyson audio has inexpensive solid core silver interconnects. Might be worth a look.

 

[JimL11]

Yeah I am trying not to tame them. I know that Cardas Clears have very low capacitance, so I will try those. As does Danacables but they can't be borrowed so I'm gonna have to rule them out.

Cardas clear is specified at 16 pf/ft for RCA connection, which is relatively low. Kimber KCAG is similar. Blue Jeans LC-1 cable runs 12.2 pf/foot and is very reasonable in cost, although it may be considered too down market for this thread. The lowest capacitance cable I have measured is Chris VenHaus's DIY silver cable which measures < 6 pf/foot. Unshielded though, which may or may not be a problem.

If you want to minimize capacitance then going for a Phono cable is an easy play, but usually the AWG will be very small as well.

I’ve used and liked silver Audioquest cables - Wind, Fire, and Wild are good, and come up used at big discounts. Not as low capacitance as their Phono cables, but easily low enough to not cause problems.

AWG isn't an issue for interconnects - 30 gauge AWG can carry over 50 mA current without any problems, and no line level signal will require even 1% of that much current, unless you are running 600 ohm professional gear. The main issue with 30 gauge wire is that it is so thin it is difficult to work with.

Given the typical margins for high-end cables, I think used is the way to go.

 

[mulveling]

Thanks, I think I'll borrow a Wind. I'll have to look around for used interconnects, maybe Audiogon since there don't seem to be a lot of them for sale here.

I guess that also raises the question: is there an audible difference with an SR-009 system between low enough capacitance and ultra low? Assuming other variables don't differ too wildly.

As mentioned before, I think the input impedance on most electrostatic amps (50K - 100K) makes this a non-issue. In the vinyl world, capacitance can be a real issue for interconnects between an MC stepup transformer and a 47K input phono stage - because the reflected impedance is much much lower than that 47K. The biggest differences I've heard by far, in cable swapping, has been in that slot. I've had higher-quality 1m interconnects lost out badly to lesser 0.5m interconnects in that slot, probably because it's so sensitive to cable capacitance - and a low capacitance phono cable was the easy winner here. Feeding these same cables into Stax amps there are no such issues; the highest quality cable (best solid-core silver in air tube) wins as expected. So I wouldn't worry about that unless you're wanting to try some crazy cable design with an exceedingly high capacitance.

 

[Rhamnetin]

Thanks for the education as usual everyone. I will be taking all of your advice. And I definitely hope to buy used due to the prices of some of these. I'll look into Dyson as well, and I wasn't aware the KCAG had such low capacitance (I was also looking into borrowing a KCTG).

 

[Ojisan]

Speaking of interconnects, are there any low capacitance high quality interconnects that are not very laid back sounding that you guys like with your Stax systems? I am still testing out different ones.

With my limited experiment, I made a 1-ft XLR cable using Mogami 3173 (AES/EBU cable, 15.3pF/ft) and Mogami 2549 (3.4pf or 23pf/ft depending on where you measure it) and 3173 has consistently given me slightly brighter but less weight versus 2549 with a warmer and more weightier sound. I was quite surprised that there is a noticeable difference with such short cable between amp and DAC. Just my $0.02 for another data point...

 

[VRacer-111]

I'm about to sell my whole setup to finance stax lol. I'm still not sure it's worth it.

I could afford it if I just got the 3100, but I want to get the Woo Wee converter and a good power amp, for clarity and soundstage. I'm probably gonna get the Parasound Z-amp v3 as a power amp, run through the SMSL M6's quite-respectable DAC. Gonna miss switching between $300 pairs between tracks, rolling op-amps, and staring at my beautiful steampunk little dot.

Does anyone have experience with the Woo and the stock energizer? Are the sound differences worth the money? Anecdotes about the Stax SRM-323 vs 252 ( figure this is a reasonable analog if no anecdotes can be found for the woo)?

If you can, try out the L300 before you decide to go in on one. No issue with sound, but comfort can be an issue with pads as thin as stock T50RP pads. L500 and L700 pads are much more comfortable being thicker and keeping your ears off the driver screen protection.

As for differences between STAX drivers (SRM-323S) and an Estat transformer with amp (Mjolnir SRD-7 powered from NAD C275BEE for my setup) there is a noticeable difference - mainly in the presentation of the low end, the dynamics, and fullness of the sound. The amp used will be the major factor in the sound quality you will get from a Estat transformer/stereo amp setp. SRM-323S is a nice driver unit though, and there is not much of a difference in detail, speed, and clarity compared with an Estat transformer and good amp setup.

 

[336881]

As mentioned before, I think the input impedance on most electrostatic amps (50K - 100K) makes this a non-issue. In the vinyl world, capacitance can be a real issue for interconnects between an MC stepup transformer and a 47K input phono stage - because the reflected impedance is much much lower than that 47K. The biggest differences I've heard by far, in cable swapping, has been in that slot. I've had higher-quality 1m interconnects lost out badly to lesser 0.5m interconnects in that slot, probably because it's so sensitive to cable capacitance - and a low capacitance phono cable was the easy winner here. Feeding these same cables into Stax amps there are no such issues; the highest quality cable (best solid-core silver in air tube) wins as expected. So I wouldn't worry about that unless you're wanting to try some crazy cable design with an exceedingly high capacitance.

Yep. Phono is just about the only area where I will concede that a high quality low capacitance cable really makes a difference. Putting the record player in another separate room triples it value sound wise. Most people will tell you to make the phono cable as short as possible and if the record player is in the same room as the rest of the gear they are right but if you have the option of another separate room I say go for it. I like cryoparts frugal cable. A 20ft. cable would probably be around $350-400. Van den hul is probably #1 in this arena but quite a bit pricier and not much better than the frugal imo.

Everything else I would just use mogami/neutrik.

 

[AthenaZephyrian]

I've heard about the pads, and am getting a pair of SoCas adapters, to roll the excellent pads from my MSR7's. People tell me to audition headphones...I guess I'm an idiot for not visiting Walmart's "Summit-fi" section to listen. In all seriousness, though, where the heck do you guys go to audition very high end cans? I can't imagine Stax are common, even at headphone shops, given that people these days like sleeker aesthetics.

Unfortunately, I'm comparing the 252s to the 323s,....and people say the 252s is garbage. I don't know that I could afford the 323.

 

[mulveling]

Employ the old days of head-fi method, which was close to the only method available to most of us for a while: but used, try it, sell if you don’t like it or when you want to upgrade.

If you buy and sell carefully, high end headphone gear has better residual value than just about any other consumer good. The used market here is very strong and healthy.

 

[AthenaZephyrian]

Employ the old days of head-fi method, which was close to the only method available to most of us for a while: but used, try it, sell if you don’t like it or when you want to upgrade.

If you buy and sell carefully, high end headphone gear has better residual value than just about any other consumer good. The used market here is very strong and healthy.

I guess I could finance the 323s and the L300's, and it would be easier to resell than the woo/parasound stack. I can't find any used stax 252s or 3100 sets. Thanks for the advice.

 

[richford]

Due to the large page count and recent amount of off-topic posting, I've restarted this thread.

As Carl said back in 2007:



For the sake of those people seeking information, especially given the discussion of vintage gear which often needs maintenance or repair, please do keep on topic (or not far off it).

The old threads are here:

The Stax Thread (New)
The Stax Thread
Long, meandering comparison of Stax 404 and Stax X-III, Episode I

 

[richford]

Please excuse me if I'm posting in the wrong place - I was pointed here by another user. I have a NEW question about Stax SR Sigma (1980s I think, coupled with passive energizer)

I am trying to ascertain what the most appropriate acoustic wool replacement would be to refresh what's there at the moment inside the ear cups. [What I have currently looks similar to chamois leather.]
And also where to obtain the replacement material.

 

[xevman]

Does anyone know how to remove earpads on SR009? I'm thinking of replacing mine in the near future and cant for the life of me figure out how to remove the old ones.

 

[statfi]

Does anyone know how to remove earpads on SR009? I'm thinking of replacing mine in the near future and cant for the life of me figure out how to remove the old ones.

This is what I do. There is a dust screen with a very flexible "frame" held in place by the earpods themselves. The ear pads themselves stretch quite easily without damage. Pull the dust screen out through the ear holes in the pads, deforming its frame as needed and stretching the pads themselves a bit. *Note the rotation of the ear pads so you can replace them in the correct orientation! The pads have a "flap" covering their inner surface (opposite the surface that rests against your head). When the pads were installed, a metal plate was inserted between the flap and the main body of the pad, so that the flap actually holds it in place. Then the plate was secured to the ear cups with 6 Philips-head, self tapping screws per side. I use a lot of axial force on #1 precision screw driver to remove the screws without stripping their heads. Note how much torque it requires to start the screws turning, so you have a feel for how much to tighten them upon re-assembly. After the screws are out, the plate and earpad "fall off" the ear cup. The screws hold the plate to the polymer material inside the ear cup. When replacing the screws I am careful to allow the screws to gently "find" the threads that have already been cut into the holes , as opposed to cutting new threads, and to not strip those threads. After the earpads are replaced, re-insert the dust screens, to get back to the approved listening condition. (FWIW, I prefer the sound of the 009 without the dust pads in place, as discussed elsewhere on this thread.)