JimL11
1000+ Head-Fier
Would someone please please help!? I want to make the internal TVR1, TVR2, TVR3 and TVR4 pot settings adjustments after changing the 4 tubes in my SRM-007tII without blowing anything up. I am not an engineer but I am capable of following step-by-step instructions. I have 1 question. Is KG’s outline all I need to do? It seems simpler than the JimL11 + ColoradoTom outline. Many thanks in advance!
KG Outline
- Start with control pots set to the middle
Repeat the following a few times over 30 minutes
- Put voltmeter probes between TP1 and TP2 and adjust TVR1 for zero
(if you have to turn tvr1 more than .25 turn in either direction, stop and get new tubes)
-Then put a voltmeter between either TP1 or TP2 and Ground and adjust TVR2 for zero
-Then put a voltmeter between both TP1 and adjust TVR3 to zero
-Then put a voltmeter between both TP2 and adjust TVR4 to zero
end repeat
JimL11 + ColoradoTom outline
1. TVR1 adjusts voltages between + and - outputs for each channel
a. Insert positive probe into slot labeled “L+” and insert negative probe into slot labeled “L-”.
b. Adjust potentiometer labeled “TVR1” for the left channel. The potentiometer is EXTREMELY sensitive and the meter reading will have a tendency to drift around a bit. The goal is to get under 1 volt.
2. TVR2 adjusts the voltages of the outputs to be close to zero volts with respect to ground
a. Leave positive probe in slot labeled “L+”
b. Remove negative probe from slot labeled “L-” and attach to ground at back of amp. The goal is to get under 1 volt.
3. By alternating negative probe between ground at back of amp to slot labeled “L-” recheck and adjust TVR1 and TVR2 respectively
4. TVR3 and TVR4 - they adjust the plate voltages for the two sections of each 6CG7/6FQ7 to be equal to each other. Connect a voltmeter between both TP1 points or both TP2 points and adjust TVR3 and TVR4 so that the voltage between the two is zero.
TP1 and 2 are connected to the output sockets with 100 ohm resistors, so the voltage at those points is < 0.4 volts different from the voltage at the socket. Both procedures do the same thing, ColoradoTom's just has a little more detail.
Has anyone heard any of Mjolnir's new, more affordable KGSSHV Minis? I am seriously tempted. Apparently slightly lower voltage - 360V rather than 400V - would this result in a slightly less dynamic sound, or simply limit absolute headroom for the highest listening levels? My 007 mk1s should have arrived yesterday but my town is cut off in all directions by snow so it's going to be tomorrow or Saturday at the earliest. Then I will compare against L700 (with 006T) which I expect to be the more balanced system, but hoping to glimpse some of what a 007mk1 can do by listening at lower volumes which shouldn't tax the 006T so much.
The difference in headroom between 360V vs 400V supplies is less than 1 dB, which is negligible. Remember that 100VRMS in the headphones is going to be close to 100 dB, which is VERY loud, and a +/-360V PS means you can reach peak levels that are 17 dB higher. Unless you play your headphones at ear-damaging levels, you're never going to get close to the limits of the power supply.
Now you have caught my interest. How much, more or less, would the components for such an amp cost? Is there a BOM and schematic available for such a device? I don't have anywhere near the time to do this, nor do I have the knowledge, but I would fo it down the road.
The original articles on the SRX-Plus were published in AudioXpress magazine in Nov and Dec 2015 (two issues). The power supply described in there is no longer current, and a new one is imminent, however, you can also use a KGBH supply or the KG Golden Reference supply set for+/- 350V. There is more info in the SRX Revisited and SRX Plus build threads which you can find with an internet search.