[echineko]

I'm contemplating moving to a Stax setup, and I must say, these past few posts are unsettling. I'm planning to start with a Stax amp first until I can save up for an upgrade, is there any consensus on whether the tube or solid state variants are less likely to have issues? Or is it more dependent on the environment they're running in, dust, humidity etc?

 

[Tinkerer]

  Ok so I opened up the SRM-3 and the fuse was broken.  I just replaced it with a similar one but then the entire main board caught fire.
 
I turned it off immediately and found this
 

 
The bottom four resistors were burned.  Now, resistors are generic, and I can replace them easily, but I am just trying to figure out what could have caused it to burn like this in the first place.

 
I'd bet arcing from a short. Look at the traces underneath. That's where the original culprit probably is. With stuff that burned, you likely fried some of your transistors though. I'd pull everything from the right channel part of the board and test it with a multimeter. Then clean up the scorch and lacquer over the shorts on the bottom. Then get your replacement parts and install them.
 
But look upstream and see if everything looks fine from the input side. You don't want to fry it twice. Make sure the left matches the right voltage/current-wise

 

[potkettleblack]

This is extremely disappointing for a headphone of SR-009's stature, but mine is producing some sort of crackling noise. The closest analogy I can imagine is the noise that cheap speakers make when the volume is cranked up.

Could someone please tell me what might be causing this and how I can fix it?

In case it helps, I've been using it exactly for a month now.

Thank you.

EDIT: The only major factor that has noticeably changed is the temperature in my room because I've to crank up the AC to keep my PC cool during gaming. Is there a possibility that the lowered temperature is affecting the headphone?

The guys on here have a lot of experience and will be able to provide tips and checks - but if they are just a month old and this isn't the notorious 'Stax fart' I suggest contacting your dealer immediately. If it's an issue/fault that is outside of the norm, you need to get it replaced asap. You shouldn't be troubleshooting and considering workarounds for something that is brand new. Try not to let it get you angry.

 

[mulveling]

  My experience - "like snap-crackle-pop" and "definitely coming from the earpiece" but it does not sound like electrical arcing. It's just random intermittent noise. And very distracting and disruptive in my opinion.
 
But if it's related to burn-in, shouldn't I have experienced it since I first started using it? Why is it occurring after a month of use?
 
This is very frustrating and is really taking everything away from my listening experience. Please let me know any and every step that I can take to possibly solve this issue. Even the most basic of probable solutions are welcome since I'm new to electrostatics and haven't really been able to do anything so far to find a fix.
 
Thank you.

It seems far more likely to be an issue with amp rather than headphones -- especially since it happens with both your 307 and 009. I've heard distortion similar to what you describe a couple times, and it's always been the amp.
 
It's not the Stax "fart" -- which is a completely dumb name for that phenomenon, as it sound NOTHING like what you would expect from the name.

 

[Spirulina780]

So is the "stax fart" really annoying? is it a reason not to buy stax?

 

[bearFNF]

Not an issue that would keep me from my Stax.

 

[mulveling]

  So is the "stax fart" really annoying? is it a reason not to buy stax?

No. I find it to be less annoying than the microphonics from HD650 upgrade cables back when that was becoming a big deal (e.g. Clou / SAA / Zu / Cardas) -- and I still used those cables. And the Stax cables aren't microphonic.
 
Basically, I never even think about this phenomenon until I see it mentioned on the forums again. It has 0 impact on my listening experience.

 

[soren_brix]

  So is the "stax fart" really annoying? is it a reason not to buy stax?

Some heads tends to fart more than others ... 

 

[chernobog]

Good day, i have sr-303 phones with broken right case holder. Cant unpin metal connector from headband, is it even possible? Or only way to repair would be to 3d print new case holder and sticking to the pin?
Sorry my english.

Spoiler: pics

https://i.imgur.com/7aMTJkq.jpg https://i.imgur.com/wRHwwrG.jpg
https://www.staxusa.com/images/products/462.JPG

 

[The Dutch Guy]

A coupe of pages back I got the advice to ground my stax amp to my "CAI" (Centrale antenne inrichting, a wall outlet for TV/Radio/ Internet) And although i appreciate the help I found out it is in fact illegal and potentially dangerous to do so in the Netherlands, just like grounding to central heating systems or water/gas lines.
I am not sure about the safety concerns, as it appears to me that the Antenna's ground will be connected to your stereo system anyway if you have a Tv or Tuner connected, but the legal issues could spell disaster if such an illegal contraption is discovered after a fire: Voiding your insurance even if it wasn't the cause of the fire.

 

[Tinkerer]

  Good day, i have sr-303 phones with broken right case holder. Cant unpin metal connector from headband, is it even possible? Or only way to repair would be to 3d print new case holder and sticking to the pin?
Sorry my english.

Spoiler: pics

https://i.imgur.com/7aMTJkq.jpg https://i.imgur.com/wRHwwrG.jpg
https://www.staxusa.com/images/products/462.JPG

 
The pin is removable. Keep at it.

 

[DougD]

  This is extremely disappointing for a headphone of SR-009's stature, but mine is producing some sort of crackling noise. The closest analogy I can imagine is the noise that cheap speakers make when the volume is cranked up.
 
Could someone please tell me what might be causing this and how I can fix it?
 
In case it helps, I've been using it exactly for a month now.
 
Thank you.
 
EDIT: The only major factor that has noticeably changed is the temperature in my room because I've to crank up the AC to keep my PC cool during gaming. Is there a possibility that the lowered temperature is affecting the headphone?

 
I used to get a lot of crackling noises in my headphones, which I eventually realized were coming from the PC-USB. An expensive motherboard in a big tower with a lot of components, and apparently noisy. Fiddling with the buffering options in JRiverMediaCenter helped a bit. Moving to a different PC (a Windows laptop) essentially solved the problem, although the USB port on the laptop's left side has some noise, whereas both USB ports on the right side are quiet. Mysteries of the board layout, I guess.
 
One of the things that convinced me that the PC&USB could be implicated, in my particular case, is that the crackle disappeared when I used the lineout from a DAP directly to the headphone amp, bypassing the PC and the USB connection to my DAC. 
 
It's an easy thing to check. HTH.

 

[Tinkerer]

   
I used to get a lot of crackling noises in my headphones, which I eventually realized were coming from the PC-USB. An expensive motherboard in a big tower with a lot of components, and apparently noisy. Fiddling with the buffering options in JRiverMediaCenter helped a bit. Moving to a different PC (a Windows laptop) essentially solved the problem, although the USB port on the laptop's left side has some noise, whereas both USB ports on the right side are quiet. Mysteries of the board layout, I guess.
 
One of the things that convinced me that the PC&USB could be implicated, in my particular case, is that the crackle disappeared when I used the lineout from a DAP directly to the headphone amp, bypassing the PC and the USB connection to my DAC. 
 
It's an easy thing to check. HTH.

 
This is why I'm glad my motherboard has optical and coax output.

 

[astrostar59]

T

   
I used to get a lot of crackling noises in my headphones, which I eventually realized were coming from the PC-USB. An expensive motherboard in a big tower with a lot of components, and apparently noisy. Fiddling with the buffering options in JRiverMediaCenter helped a bit. Moving to a different PC (a Windows laptop) essentially solved the problem, although the USB port on the laptop's left side has some noise, whereas both USB ports on the right side are quiet. Mysteries of the board layout, I guess.
 
One of the things that convinced me that the PC&USB could be implicated, in my particular case, is that the crackle disappeared when I used the lineout from a DAP directly to the headphone amp, bypassing the PC and the USB connection to my DAC. 
 
It's an easy thing to check. HTH.

PC and Mac based USB can sound fabulous, but it needs some work. PC music servers built for the purpose are the easy option. I use a tweaked up Mac Mini and USB out. The ports on the Mac Mini are not equal, some are shared by other services inside the computer, so you need to choose the right one. Then feed that USB to a top convertor outboard, or use a DAC with a great implementation of USB input. Many DACs are not so hot on that unfortunately.
 
I added a regulated 12V DC power supply to the Mac Mini and use the TotalDAC USB cable / filter before my USB to SPDIF convertor. It works great, no noise and no digital artefacts, very analogue sounding IMO.
 
It can be frustrating with software and PC build options. Best way is have a dedicated PC server or Mac Mini only for music. A laptop will get to so far but will hit the buffers pretty soon IMO due to expandability and the compromised (small space lots of noise) circuits inside.
 
I now have well beyond the sound quality from a (good and dedicated) CD transport from AIF files. It is possible with a bit of work.
 
Hope this helps. 

 

[Senes]

Hello
I'm going to get a SRM-3 wired in 117v (initially wired in 100v but modded by Spritzer some years ago).
How can I switch it to 240v?
Is it the same as this :
http://www.head-fi.org/t/223263/the-stax-thread-new/15720#post_7530298
?

Thanks you