The Stax Thread III
Apr 15, 2014 at 2:06 PM Post #2,056 of 25,626
Interconnects for the SR009
 
There doesn't seem to be much discussion of interconnects at head-fi, but a few months ago I realized that the ICs I was using with my DIY triode amp (unbalanced inputs) were the weak link in my system so I started reading reviews and discussion forums to see what people were saying. Since then I've listened to quite a few ICs, but the ones I'm keeping are the top of the line HIgh Fidelity Cables CT1-UR (Ultimate Reference). For those who don't know, the High Fidelity cables work on a different principle that owner Rick Schultz calls magnetic conduction. He's patented it and their website describes it so I won't repeat that here. For a couple of months I've owned the CT1-U, their 2nd best cable, but based on a review, word of mouth and Rick's own recommendation I decided to trade up to the UR. I'm not one to rave, but yesterday I received them, and I can say with confidence that these are by far the best interconnects I've heard, and that their resolution has transformed my system. And they're not broken in yet, though thoroughly cable cooked. (According to Rick, after 100 hours in your system they will be pretty well broken in.)
 
You can read that review of the UR here:
http://dagogo.com/high-fidelity-cables-ct-1ur-ultimate-reference-speaker-and-interconnect-cables-review
 
There's also a High Fidelity Cables thread at Audiogon.
 
Now, there may be better ICs out there, but there are no comparative reviews to go on, and expensive as they are the UR are far less expensive than for example the new Tara Labs Air Evolution.
 
If you are happy with the 009 sound you're getting - and I mainly mean if you're enjoying their tonal balance and resolution with your amp, and you're got a high quality source and good power conditioning - then you really should give the UR a try.
 
Here are the other ICs I've listened to in my system, roughly in descending order of transparency, realism and overall satisfaction:
 
HF CT1-U - a very nice sounding IC, but lacking resolution, body and impact compared to the UR (note: the Us are not yet fully broken in either - but the differences between the U and the UR are not at all subtle).
 
Shunyata Anaconda - nice, but not as resolving or as natural-sounding in the highs as the U in my system. Also bettered by low capacitance DIY silver/cotton ICs made by a friend.
 
HF CT1-E - did not hear these at the same time as the Anaconda so cannot make a direct comparison. However the Es sounded significantly bass shy - I'm told that the bass improves with more break-in (up to 200 hours?). With that one possible caveat, they might be a good choice in a "budget" 009 system - there is a family resemblance to the Us, just not as much of everything. (Did not have them at the same time for a direct comparison.)
 
Synergistic Research Tungsten, Audience AU24-se, Dave's Cables D3, Grover Huffman ZX+ - not resolving enough to be worth considering with the 009, IMO.
 
Summary judgement: if you listen to a lot of classical, jazz or other mainly acoustic music, the 009/UR synergy can be amazing. The UR's ability to uncongeal info buried in less-than-good older recordings (e.g. CDs recorded with early digital technology, or older analogue transfers, even mono) is unparalleled by other cables I've heard. For example, on David Zinman's beautiful Dvorak Legends CD (Nonesuch, recorded in 1983 on Sony gear), orchestral detail that even with the Us sounded dulled down and blended in now stands out in bold but believable relief - suddenly there's space around everything, a delicacy of articulation in the winds that wasn't there before, and better string sound. The URs sound great with rock too - bass is full, textured and dynamic. I'm pretty sure these cables will make any kind of music you throw at them more vivid, involving and fun, assuming the rest of your system is up to it.
 
Apr 15, 2014 at 5:00 PM Post #2,059 of 25,626
  Interconnects for the SR009
 
There doesn't seem to be much discussion of interconnects at head-fi, but a few months ago I realized that the ICs I was using with my DIY triode amp (unbalanced inputs) were the weak link in my system so I started reading reviews and discussion forums to see what people were saying. Since then I've listened to quite a few ICs, but the ones I'm keeping are the top of the line HIgh Fidelity Cables CT1-UR (Ultimate Reference). For those who don't know, the High Fidelity cables work on a different principle that owner Rick Schultz calls magnetic conduction. He's patented it and their website describes it so I won't repeat that here. For a couple of months I've owned the CT1-U, their 2nd best cable, but based on a review, word of mouth and Rick's own recommendation I decided to trade up to the UR. I'm not one to rave, but yesterday I received them, and I can say with confidence that these are by far the best interconnects I've heard, and that their resolution has transformed my system. And they're not broken in yet, though thoroughly cable cooked. (According to Rick, after 100 hours in your system they will be pretty well broken in.)
 
You can read that review of the UR here:
http://dagogo.com/high-fidelity-cables-ct-1ur-ultimate-reference-speaker-and-interconnect-cables-review
 
There's also a High Fidelity Cables thread at Audiogon.
 
Now, there may be better ICs out there, but there are no comparative reviews to go on, and expensive as they are the UR are far less expensive than for example the new Tara Labs Air Evolution.
 
If you are happy with the 009 sound you're getting - and I mainly mean if you're enjoying their tonal balance and resolution with your amp, and you're got a high quality source and good power conditioning - then you really should give the UR a try.
 
Here are the other ICs I've listened to in my system, roughly in descending order of transparency, realism and overall satisfaction:
 
HF CT1-U - a very nice sounding IC, but lacking resolution, body and impact compared to the UR (note: the Us are not yet fully broken in either - but the differences between the U and the UR are not at all subtle).
 
Shunyata Anaconda - nice, but not as resolving or as natural-sounding in the highs as the U in my system. Also bettered by low capacitance DIY silver/cotton ICs made by a friend.
 
HF CT1-E - did not hear these at the same time as the Anaconda so cannot make a direct comparison. However the Es sounded significantly bass shy - I'm told that the bass improves with more break-in (up to 200 hours?). With that one possible caveat, they might be a good choice in a "budget" 009 system - there is a family resemblance to the Us, just not as much of everything. (Did not have them at the same time for a direct comparison.)
 
Synergistic Research Tungsten, Audience AU24-se, Dave's Cables D3, Grover Huffman ZX+ - not resolving enough to be worth considering with the 009, IMO.
 
Summary judgement: if you listen to a lot of classical, jazz or other mainly acoustic music, the 009/UR synergy can be amazing. The UR's ability to uncongeal info buried in less-than-good older recordings (e.g. CDs recorded with early digital technology, or older analogue transfers, even mono) is unparalleled by other cables I've heard. For example, on David Zinman's beautiful Dvorak Legends CD (Nonesuch, recorded in 1983 on Sony gear), orchestral detail that even with the Us sounded dulled down and blended in now stands out in bold but believable relief - suddenly there's space around everything, a delicacy of articulation in the winds that wasn't there before, and better string sound. The URs sound great with rock too - bass is full, textured and dynamic. I'm pretty sure these cables will make any kind of music you throw at them more vivid, involving and fun, assuming the rest of your system is up to it.

 
MIT for ME
 
Apr 15, 2014 at 9:03 PM Post #2,061 of 25,626
I had high fidelity CT-1U interconnects before and they were great on my speaker system. I also enjoy hidiamond xlr3 balanced interconnects as well. Hidiamond has little more density in mids so i use them for vocals. Anything else i play with high fidelity (ct-1e for now)

Planning to get CT-1UR sometime this year.
 
Apr 15, 2014 at 10:29 PM Post #2,064 of 25,626
I like Mogami IC
smily_headphones1.gif
excellent and with a lifetime warranty

+1 on Mogami. Use them with my McIntosh gear and my WES. Good for the pro's, good enough for me.
 
Apr 16, 2014 at 7:59 AM Post #2,065 of 25,626
  Ear pad issues.
 
 After months of experimenting with the old brown ear pads, the best sound I could get from the 007 Mk1 is...
 

This must be the most dedicated and thorough 007 ear pad tweaking of all time. Ever!
I doubt if even sprizter has gone this far on pad modification (or has he?...).
 
 I thought 007 Mk2 pads could be brown as well as black. I certainly received a new brown pair a few months ago. They did seem very slightly deeper than my old Mk1s, but also very soft. Although hardly conclusive, the Mk2 black pads (and 009 pads) I came across at a meet seemed to be noticeably stiffer than either of my brown ones - as if the leather was a bit tougher.
 
Regarding removal of the pad grill - it's not just house dust you need to worry about when storing. How can I put this... all human heads shed skin dust and dandruff. So I won't be taking my grills off no matter how good the sound improvement.
 
Now that I've been experimenting more carefully with pad and spring rotation, it's surprising how much difference a few degrees can make (pad more obvious than spring). Very broadly, I can move from "wide and open" to "dark and shut in". The complication is that the shut in effect can also improve the solidity of the central image, which can be very pleasing on, say, female vocals. Then there's the bass impact factor. At one point, I thought I had all planets in alignment with the best overall balance, but I can't remember now what that perfect combination was
frown.gif
.
 
Apr 16, 2014 at 9:38 AM Post #2,066 of 25,626
  This must be the most dedicated and thorough 007 ear pad tweaking of all time. Ever!
I doubt if even sprizter has gone this far on pad modification (or has he?...).

 
Thanks, but this was just desperate tweaking to make them sound more open. Spritzer, AFAIK, prefers the Mk2 black earpads both for sonics (better bass) and comfort. He advised me against removing the springs, since they ensure the right distance and condition of the earpads.
However, after a lot of testing I am happily living without them.
 
I thought 007 Mk2 pads could be brown as well as black. I certainly received a new brown pair a few months ago. They did seem very slightly deeper than my old Mk1s, but also very soft. Although hardly conclusive, the Mk2 black pads (and 009 pads) I came across at a meet seemed to be noticeably stiffer than either of my brown ones - as if the leather was a bit tougher.

 
I didn't know there was brown Mk2, thanks... perhaps mine is also Mk2 and that is the reason it sounds better with trimmed height.
At some point I will definitely try the 009 pads (unmodified should sound good), but at the moment I am in new love with the 007 and current pads.
 
Regarding removal of the pad grill - it's not just house dust you need to worry about when storing. How can I put this... all human heads shed skin dust and dandruff. So I won't be taking my grills off no matter how good the sound improvement.

 
Now that is a valid and good point, thanks! During these months I haven't notice any issues with the cleanness of the drivers, but will definitely take out the microscope tonight :). I promise no pictures lol :).
 
Now that I've been experimenting more carefully with pad and spring rotation, it's surprising how much difference a few degrees can make (pad more obvious than spring). Very broadly, I can move from "wide and open" to "dark and shut in". The complication is that the shut in effect can also improve the solidity of the central image, which can be very pleasing on, say, female vocals. Then there's the bass impact factor. At one point, I thought I had all planets in alignment with the best overall balance, but I can't remember now what that perfect combination was 
frown.gif
.

 
Welcome to the club :). So the shut in is when the spring radius is pointing forward, and open is when it points downwards or backwards?
Now also try taking the spring out, I am curious of your opinion. The grill is of less effect than the spring, and the foam height, so I might end up putting them back as well.
 
Apr 16, 2014 at 9:48 AM Post #2,067 of 25,626
I've swapped between MK1 and MK2 pads a couple times on my 007mk1s. I prefer the comfort of the latter, but seem to prefer the sound from the former. I'm guessing I'm just able to get a better seal with them. It's such a pain in the ass swapping pads though that I gave up experimenting.
 
Apr 16, 2014 at 12:58 PM Post #2,068 of 25,626
Taped some holes and removed a speck of dust on my borked out LS driver.. Still, imbalance.. There is the balance control, just not sure I want to own a headphone with imbalance, really. The process went fairly easy, I just don't think the left driver is recoverable by me at least. It sounds as good as ever, though, and there is no visible dust in the driver now.
 
Apr 16, 2014 at 1:14 PM Post #2,069 of 25,626
Originally Posted by zolkis /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
Welcome to the club :). So the shut in is when the spring radius is pointing forward, and open is when it points downwards or backwards?
Now also try taking the spring out, I am curious of your opinion. The grill is of less effect than the spring, and the foam height, so I might end up putting them back as well.

 
With the pad's seam starting around 2pm, rotating the seam up towards 1pm gives me a more shut in sound with fuller bass. Rotating downwards towards 3pm gives a wider sound stage and lighter more open sound (more 009 I guess). It's not night-and-day and there isn't a right or wrong for me. I'm happy with dark and I quite like some extra weight to the bass. But more recently, now that my brightness allergy is cured, I like the openness even more, and there was a particular point of planetary alignment when the bass had great, tight "slam", which was really good too.
 
I've tried the spring between 2pm (just below the seam) and 5pm. This is harder to pin down, to the point where I haven't yet discounted  imagination. But recently I've fixed the pads with a bit of masking tape, so now I'll have less variables to play with. If only Stax had designed in a single-click lock/unlock mechanism to each of the two rotating discs - I would have paid a lot extra for that best-of-both-worlds feature.   
 
I won't be taking the spring out altogether. Putting the pads back on is such a fiddly procedure, it's just too much trouble for me to find out.
 
Apr 16, 2014 at 1:50 PM Post #2,070 of 25,626
The LS just have that ethereal 'stat quality, which the 307 doesn't quite posess to the same degree. The 307 is much more of a modern aggressive signature with tactile bass and a generally forward sound. LS seems more clean, neutral, coherent and effortless, though slightly edgy. 
 

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