[ahmedie]

Ah right I read right over the links, yes I agree with your assessment now @Tinkerer

In the second picture, the resistor on the left. It looks like it's attached to a different trace next to it. Is that right? I don't think it is and I didn't do that to mine. I bet that's causing some of the problems of not all of them.

If I were you @ahmedie I'd trash the original resistors and replace with brand new ones, going from the original "bottom" connection (as oriented in that second pic) directly to the unused traces. I used these 150k 1w 1% vishay ones that are actually overkill but cost all of 25¢ apiece

guess i will do that !! i cannot get thing to stick together after melting the solider ... do you know the reason ? i only have 10 minutes soldiering experience lol

 

[Muffinhead]

guess i will do that !! i cannot get thing to stick together after melting the solider ... do you know the reason ? i only have 10 minutes soldiering experience lol

You have to tin the leads before you apply solder. Otherwise the solder won't connect. Also, you want to use flux or rosin core solder.

 

[JimL11]

guess i will do that !! i cannot get thing to stick together after melting the solider ... do you know the reason ? i only have 10 minutes soldiering experience lol

First, I assume that you are using electronic solder, which contains rosin flux in it, if not, get some and use ONLY that for electronics work.

So, you don't heat the solder and touch it to the component or wire, you heat the wires and let that melt the solder so if flows freely - a few seconds should do it if you have the proper solder and the proper soldering iron. You should put a bit of solder on the tip of the iron to help with heating the wires, touch the iron tip to the wire(s) to be soldered, then touch the solder to the opposite side of the wire from where the soldering iron tip is touching. Take a look at the other solder joints on the circuit board to see what a good solder joint looks like - notice how the solder blends smoothly into the circuit board pad and what remains of the component wires.

An exercise to test your ability to solder correctly:

cut 4 bare wires about 2" long and lay them out in a square with the ends overlapping. Solder the wires into s solid square. If you have done a good job, you should be able to squash the wires together and spread them apart again to form the square without anything breaking.

 

[ahmedie]

JimL11
Muffinhead
Thank you very much for the soldering tips!! I will train more before i do the next solder !
https://www.head-fi.org/members/jiml11.437292/

 

[DJ The Rocket]

@ahmedie just to stress the point:

PRACTICE! Practice desoldering on the PCB out of some junk you were going to throw away (hint: use a desoldering wick!), practice soldering headphone cables and then test them to make sure the connections are good. Read tips and tutorials online, there are a zillion good how-to videos for example. Soldering isn't a hard skill to learn, but it does need to be learned first.

If you ordered the resistors I linked, start practicing now and you'll be comfortable with it by the time they arrive!

 

[ahmedie]

legendary omega on auction ... 2000$ and going up!!
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b294416976

 

[Tinkerer]

It was at $1200 just a couple days ago. Now about $2500. Headband may be busted but that's an easy parts swap and the rest of the thing looks good so probably will keep going up.

 

[Muffinhead]

How do those cans sound, anyway? I have a feeling they're more a collector's item than anythinh else.

 

[SeaWo|f]

some people still swear by them.

I would be hesitant to pay these kind of prices though for a 20+ year old headphone when I thought I read Stax doesn't have replacement drivers anymore.

 

[wuwhere]

I would like to listen to it but not own one.

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/what-is-the-difference-between-stax-omega-1-and-stax-omega2.322545/

 

[ahmedie]

I would like to listen to it but not own one.

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/what-is-the-difference-between-stax-omega-1-and-stax-omega2.322545/

I read that and the the comparison link inside. It feel like a history class

 

[SeaWo|f]

Keep one thing in mind, spritzer comment(2008) about the sound of the original omega with the 007 driver probably applies to the 007mki driver, though it could be the mkii driver but definitely not the current revision mk2.9 which sounds a bit different.

Idk if he or anyone could comment on how the omega would sound with the current so called mk2.9 driver?

 

[ToroFiestaSol]

According to what I could read, the housing is extremely important too. SR-007 has a full metal housing, much stiffer than the Omega's resin cartwheel frame, plus a better designed headband (and spare parts available, unlike the Omega), so it should be the superior transducer if both have the same drivers.
PS: notice that I said "should be" and "if both have the same drivers" (SR-007 MK2.9 drivers in Omega housing, not the original drivers), don't jump on me, I haven't heard the Omega.

 

[SeaWo|f]

I agree it could go that way. I just tried to be very conservative with my comment because of the cost involved with the sr-omega these days.

 

[Muffinhead]

How can I tell if I have a pair of Sr-007 MK2'S or Mk2.9's?