[Muffinhead]

Exactly how muddy? Would the l700 via the 252 sound significantly better before.mod or amp upgrade foe 007? I will have to live with the combo for some time

Let's be clear: these are both world class pieces of equipment (Sr007 and T1), so they sound fantastic compared to basically anything else. If you wanna audiophile nitpick like we all do, then yes, there is a slight bit of confused bass that my ears picked up. I could live with it, but I wanted to DIY anyway so I decided to try to make it even better than it already is. Bottom line: you'll likely be happy with the T1 Sr007 combo.

 

[AudioThief]

Let's be clear: these are both world class pieces of equipment (Sr007 and T1), so they sound fantastic compared to basically anything else. If you wanna audiophile nitpick like we all do, then yes, there is a slight bit of confused bass that my ears picked up. I could live with it, but I wanted to DIY anyway so I decided to try to make it even better than it already is. Bottom line: you'll likely be happy with the T1 Sr007 combo.

Thanks. That is what I figured myself, but I have no experience with it. Just keep reading how power hungry it is.

 

[SeaWo|f]

If you know you want a new amp later then without question I vote for the better transducer -sr007

 

[AudioThief]

If you know you want a new amp later then without question I vote for the better transducer -sr007

Thanks for the input. I will upgrade amp at some point likely this year, but I want to be able to enjoy my 1400 usd purchase before I upgrade amp, thats essentially my worry hehe.

There seems to have been a lot of hype around the l700 as many seems to view them as equal in ability to sr007. I take it you guys disagree with that.

 

[SeaWo|f]

I have not heard the l700, so I will not comment on its sound compared to the 007. I have not seen people referencing them as equal. I had seen people like the l700 more than the 007 on some amps but that in the cases I've seen has been acknowledged by the individual to be because of the relative needs to drive each to its maximum.

 

[JimL11]

Resoldered the new resistors, voltage checks out at 16 and 22 v from the batteries. I have applied the ceramic mounts with thermal paste to the heatsink, but am unsure how to apply the mosfets. Do i put thermal paste on the back of them and then press down?

Correct. You don't need a lot of paste - the idea is to fill any gaps/irregularities between the insulator and heatsink or MOSFET - if they were all perfectly flat with 100% contact you could do without the paste. Here's an interesting post I found on spreading paste.

https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Thermal-Paste-Application-Techniques-170/

 

[catscratch]

I'm not sure what the output power of the (stock) T1 is, but I'd wager it's not enough for the 007. In terms of 007 vs L700 - the 007 is on a higher level technically. A bit more resolution, bigger and more 3d soundstage, better imaging, more tactile slam to the sound and tighter, more extended bass. However the L700 is a bit more neutral in some ways - the 007 has a big dip around the presence region, 2khz to 5khz, which makes it sound a bit muffled at low to medium volumes. Combine that with the fact that without sufficient output you'll start to lose some presence at both ends of the spectrum, and you get to a point where an underdriven 007 doesn't sound very good IMO and would be a waste of money.

Basically, if you go 007, get a KGSS or similar amp. With a lesser amp, get the L700.

The L700 is a great high-end headphone in its own right, enough resolution to be truly transparent, great mids and highs, and pretty decent soundstage with very holographic imaging. It doesn't scale like the 007 and doesn't reach the same heights, but it's a bit more neutral, is far easier to drive, and is definitely better for low to medium level listening. On the flip side, a well-driven 007 is really something else, but it takes some work and money to get there.

Unfortunately, 'stats and 'stat rigs are a bit like a hole in your desk into which you pour your money. So tread carefully.

 

[SeaWo|f]

If cost is an issue I would sill go the 007 route.

After purchase fix the t1, probably caps, feed back mod. Then sell it, the 252 and l300.

Use that money for a used kgsshv or spritzer s budget version.

Just how I am, I would feel I missed out when passing on the 007.

Edit:: you will sill need to inject some cash to get the new amp, selling your plasma for a few weeks will cover that.

 

[JimL11]

After purchase fix the t1, probably caps, feed back mod. Then sell it, the 252 and l300.

Use that money for a used kgsshv or spritzer s budget version.

Just how I am, I would feel I missed out when passing on the 007.

Um, the T1 doesn't have a feedback mod. It has a CCS mod, which @Muffinhead is building, that improves its drive capability to where it can drive the 007. It still doesn't have the drive capability of a KGST, or the regulated power supply of the KG amps, but it does a decent job with the 007.

An unmodded T1 does fine with any of the Lambda models.

 

[SeaWo|f]

My bad. Was typing T1 and thinking 727 for some reason.

 

[AudioThief]

I'm not sure what the output power of the (stock) T1 is, but I'd wager it's not enough for the 007. In terms of 007 vs L700 - the 007 is on a higher level technically. A bit more resolution, bigger and more 3d soundstage, better imaging, more tactile slam to the sound and tighter, more extended bass. However the L700 is a bit more neutral in some ways - the 007 has a big dip around the presence region, 2khz to 5khz, which makes it sound a bit muffled at low to medium volumes. Combine that with the fact that without sufficient output you'll start to lose some presence at both ends of the spectrum, and you get to a point where an underdriven 007 doesn't sound very good IMO and would be a waste of money.

Basically, if you go 007, get a KGSS or similar amp. With a lesser amp, get the L700.

The L700 is a great high-end headphone in its own right, enough resolution to be truly transparent, great mids and highs, and pretty decent soundstage with very holographic imaging. It doesn't scale like the 007 and doesn't reach the same heights, but it's a bit more neutral, is far easier to drive, and is definitely better for low to medium level listening. On the flip side, a well-driven 007 is really something else, but it takes some work and money to get there.

Unfortunately, 'stats and 'stat rigs are a bit like a hole in your desk into which you pour your money. So tread carefully.

I value your opinion greatly - I know of your extensive time in the headphone game. Thank you for your input!

I was actually thinking about getting a Stax amp (727 for instance?), as they are readily available on the domestic market. While the mjolnir amps are geographically close (From Island to Norway), the import tax is ridiculous in Norway, so it would be extremely costly to get one of their amps.

You are right, electrostat-rigs are expensive. But what I learned when I heard the SRS 3100 is that dynamic/planars are essentially not interesting for me, as clearly to my ears electrostats are far superior for my tastes. So I view any purchase I do now a long term investment - I am not looking to switch and swap a bunch - there aren't many options for me going forward.. Its essentially, in my eyes:

L700 + good amp
SR-007 + good amp
SR-009 + good amp

Now, my thinking goes that L700 is perhaps more immediately satisfying given that the SR-007 needs a good amp, which the T1 might not be for the 007. I have no idea if L700 via 252 sounds better or worse than SR007 via T1, however someone in the L700 thread said that 252 was almost same performance as 006ts with the L700.

The SR-009 will be out of my budget for many years to come, and so really the SR-007 used is my only option to get into that high fidelity. I can justify purchasing an expensive amp to round out my setup, but not 009 + amp at the money I'd have to dish out.

If cost is an issue I would sill go the 007 route.

After purchase fix the t1, probably caps, feed back mod. Then sell it, the 252 and l300.

Use that money for a used kgsshv or spritzer s budget version.

Just how I am, I would feel I missed out when passing on the 007.

Edit:: you will sill need to inject some cash to get the new amp, selling your plasma for a few weeks will cover that.

I get the feeling that I need to jump on the opportunity to get a SR-007 if it is significantly better than the L700, which it seems to be.. At least long term.

I have a bunch of dynamics I can / will sell...

TH 900, HD650, AH-D5000, JVC HPDX1000, and of course my L300 + 252 which could be sold in the future. So my thinking was sr-007 + T1, then upgrade to a stax amp such as 727 to pair with the 007.

 

[SeaWo|f]

With such a varied collection make sure you feel that you can be happy with a single high-end setup. Some are happier with the variety. I can understand why.

 

[Tinkerer]

So my thinking was sr-007 + T1, then upgrade to a stax amp such as 727 to pair with the 007.

I'll tell you right now as someone that has had both, a T1 will sound superior to a 727A modded or unmodded with a 007. Just save your money for a KG/SRX+ build if you want to upgrade. Everything else is pretty much sidegrades and the old T1 if she's got good caps and tubes is pretty much top of that particular heap for the price. A good power supply on the tiny amps is pretty impressive too. Take your old 252S and slap a regulated 1.5A or so wall wart with the correct polarity on it and compare it to the T1 once you get it in. They'll be closer than you expect.

 

[AudioThief]

With such a varied collection make sure you feel that you can be happy with a single high-end setup. Some are happier with the variety. I can understand why.

I will probably keep one dynamic headphone for bass purposes. 95% of the time I listen to my L300, and have been since I got them in october.

I'll tell you right now as someone that has had both, a T1 will sound superior to a 727A modded or unmodded with a 007. Just save your money for a KG/SRX+ build if you want to upgrade. Everything else is pretty much sidegrades and the old T1 if she's got good caps and tubes is pretty much top of that particular heap for the price. A good power supply on the tiny amps is pretty impressive too. Take your old 252S and slap a regulated 1.5A or so wall wart with the correct polarity on it and compare it to the T1 once you get it in. They'll be closer than you expect.

Interesting. What is an SRX? I gotta admit I am a bit confused about all the mjolnir amps.. Which amplifiers should I be looking at for the 007 specifically?

 

[SeaWo|f]

That will largely be based on your budget.