[yaluen]

Is there a way to adjust the fit of the SR-x07 model Lambdas? I have a 407, and the clamp pressure is killing me. If I use my hands to pull the earcups apart just slightly it's fine, but otherwise it's so bad that it doesn't matter what they sound like.

I don't have any real hope that the old trick of leaving them gripped on the box overnight will work due to the plastic headband, and I don't want to risk doing anything that the next owner might not like because I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to sell them.

Are all the new Lambdas like this? My next choice is the L300, but if it's got the same clamp I'd rather not bother.

The arc should loosen up with enough time being stretched, just be careful its not stretched too far out as its liable to snap at various places. IIRC the arc on the SR-507/SR-L500/SR-L700 uses a more flexible plastic and should be more comfortable in terms of clamp.

The L300 would most likely be even worse for you since its cups aren't designed to swivel fully (same with the L500 and L700 I believe). Skip to the part in my notes where I mention the "restraining tabs" and have a look at the accompanying photos to see what I mean: https://www.head-fi.org/showcase/stax-srs-3100.22188/reviews.

 

[DJ The Rocket]

@yaluen That is fantastic info, thanks for the help! I've read your review before, but I guess I didn't know what I was looking for at the time.

My 407 has the exact same restraining tab design as photoed on your L300:



There's almost no rotation allowed at all.

It also looks like I may be able to remove the earcups and switch them to my Lambda Pro head band & arc. I'll try that later tonight, maybe I can give the 407 a fair audition after all.

 

[yaluen]

Actually there is a difference in where the tabs are located on the new advanced lambdas which causes the following situation if your head's wide enough. I admit it's a bit hard to tell what I'm trying to show with my photos.



The tabs on the old lambdas shouldn't cause a fit problem.

 

[DJ The Rocket]

Huh I'm not exactly sure what you mean, but I got the 407 onto the Lambda headband no problem. Its not 100% secure because the old tabs that slot in the sides are much thinner, but for my purposes it's fine. The other way around doesn't work of course, I couldn't fit the Lambda earcups on the 407 headband. Slightly disappointing, but my #1 goal was accomplished at least.

Edit: I see what you mean now about the tabs. Odd that that's not the case at all with mine, the tabs were identical

 

[DJ The Rocket]

It looks like if I were to cut off the very bottom 1/4 inch of the headband, as marked in the pic, it would at least be able to swivel. I'm not sure how much this would help my specific problem though, and I'd better be damn certain that's what I want before I go dremmel crazy.

 

[yaluen]

Ok, I see where the confusion is. The tabs I'm referring to are these ones:



On the new advanced lambdas they end up on the other side of the gimbals. I assume you're referring to side-to-side rotation whereas I'm referring to up-down rotation.

 

[DJ The Rocket]

Yeah I realized that's what you meant, but they happen to work correctly on the old Lambda frame for me anyway. It's a Lambda Pro, if that makes a difference.

Then I was indeed talking about the other axis of rotation when I was talking about cutting that piece, which I meant to be a thought unrelated to the tabs you just pictured. I probably just didn't express that I was talking about two different things.

Edit: ok this is nuts. After taking them apart and putting them back together, suddenly they fit me perfectly now! And I have no idea what's different. I thought maybe the guy I got them from assembled them wrong, so I looked at the first pictures I took, and nope, it wasn't that.

Getting a new product and immediately having trouble with it screams "user error," I know. But is it likely that I messed up wearing headphones, the same way, for four days in a row?

Welp, I don't understand it, but I guess this is just the kind of knowledge mankind isn't meant to have. I'm going to go enjoy listening to these now. Welcome to the world of Stax I guess

 

[astrostar59]

Stax SR-009 and its gang...

Don't recognise the amp, what it it?

 

[JimL11]

Don't recognise the amp, what it it?

I think that's his DT-HWT DIY amp, based on the old Mullard tube amplifier circuit except with feedback taken before the output transformer, and output taken from the output tube cathodes rather than the plates.

 

[pham]

Thanks @JimL11... but this is the new DT-Reference, single-ended circuit topology headphone amplifier to drive planar magnetic headphones including the SUSVARA as well as electrostatic ear-speakers like Stax SR-009 and of course other dynamic ones.

@astrostar59 It weighs more than 40kg and took a lot of time and effort to craft. This system can really express the liveliness, freshness and coherent of the sound that dwells in the point of contact between the musician and his/her instrument, keep things natural, simple and beautiful...

 

[astrostar59]

Thanks @JimL11... but this is the new DT-Reference, single-ended circuit topology headphone amplifier to drive planar magnetic headphones including the SUSVARA as well as electrostatic ear-speakers like Stax SR-009 and of course other dynamic ones.

@astrostar59 It weighs more than 40kg and took a lot of time and effort to craft. This system can really express the liveliness, freshness and coherent of the sound that dwells in the point of contact between the musician and his/her instrument, keep things natural, simple and beautiful...

Interesting amplifier there. So you sell it to a customer, or is it a one off for your collection?

On Head-case you put up a pic showing other amps, including what looked like Jon Mclean's Carbon. How would you describe the sound of your amp v the Carbon on the 009s?

Have you heard the BHSE? If yes, how does it compare to your amp.

What is the specs i.e. voltage swing, power amp mA rating?

I think the thing I am trying to understand is how you got the voltage swing high enough, as that is a challenge on tube electrostatic amps as I understand it. The BHSE has 3 stages of fets before the EL34 last stage (for example).

 

[pham]

I'm coming from a small group of passionate engineers honest making technology, focused on design and craft finest hand-built headamps; not marketing or not creating super company but really create products that really bring a lot of value to the customers. Since most of the time, they do own a various type of headphones besides Stax and wish to have a single amp to treat them well.

I find it’s hard to compare to other brands as we’re really focused on what we do and we’re looking at what the technologies potential is for headamp and really try to push that potential as far forward as possible. I think for us we do this because we love it and that’s what I want to keep doing and that’s why we don’t participate in too much marketing or trying to say we are more than we are. We’re very glad that people enjoy and they want to keep supporting us and allowing us to continue doing what we love doing.

We believe our gears are tools for enjoying music, not for demonstrations of performance at the test bench. They might not be for everyone. However, if you value your musical enjoyment over brand-name show-offs and bigger-the-better spec sheet, these amps will never fail your expectations.

This is an example of the level of detail that we care about when dealing with the great enemy of high fidelity reproduction, vibration... Look how DT-Reference provides a direct path to remove all these vibrations through its built-in Resonance Control feet; offering a more refined and musical sound accompanied by a much lower noise floor, giving greater delicacy and resolution, particularly in the bass extend. It also helps to prolong the decay of harmonics after the plucked note and delivered higher dynamics all around.

 

[tigon_ridge]

delete. point missed apparently

 

[paradoxper]

And you're still missing the point.

 

[Muffinhead]

@JimL11
OK, got the parts. I'm gonna start with the cap replacement. I don't know how to go about discharging the capacitors. I've set my multimeter to 500v dc, set the probes on the solder piles, and I get nothing - no voltage at all. I am almost certain there's still voltage in those things and I don't plan on dying, lol. What am I doing wrong?