[simontoyou]

It's been 15 years ever since I wanted a pair of Stax, and I finally made the jump! Got myself a pair of SR-L700's and an SRM-727II thanks to a classified listing here! Been enjoying them so far but I've been trying to get rid of PC audio buzzing.

Trying to switch some audio cables around to see if anything works, will report later!

Just a quick update on my PC audio buzzing:

My setup includes an old Gilmore V2 Preamp which was creating the buzzing. I swapped out audio cables but that only helped a little bit. However, I tried some DeoxIT cleaner/protector and the results were incredible! I cleaned out all my old connections but I think the major contribution was the "Gold" protectant that comes with the kit. The static isn't gone completely, but it is not noticeable at the max volume I listen at, so a big thanks goes to that company!

 

[mulveling]

My setup includes an old Gilmore V2 Preamp which was creating the buzzing.

Wow, that Gilmore V2 is a blast from the past! It was my first really good amp, circa early 2000s. Used and loved it with HD580, HD600 and HD650. Owned the V2 twice, and also a V2SE (briefly). My first V2 eventually died, sadly. It also came with a ground hum (electrical, not mechanical hum) that was resolved by slightly rotating the toroid transformer.

LOTS of clean gain on the V2, so could be good if you need a boost for a Stax amp paired with a low-output source. L700 is a nice choice too.

 

[simontoyou]

Wow, that Gilmore V2 is a blast from the past! It was my first really good amp, circa early 2000s. Used and loved it with HD580, HD600 and HD650. Owned the V2 twice, and also a V2SE (briefly). My first V2 eventually died, sadly. It also came with a ground hum (electrical, not mechanical hum) that was resolved by slightly rotating the toroid transformer.

LOTS of clean gain on the V2, so could be good if you need a boost for a Stax amp paired with a low-output source. L700 is a nice choice too.

I got it preowned around the same time and it still works well! Had to clean it out a few times but that's pretty much it. I'm really enjoying the combination and I'm not giving up on this bad boy until I'm mentally and spiritually prepared.

Here's hoping it'll last another decade!

 

[Kiats]

The mighty Stax Omega is back after replacement of the headphone arc by ES Labs HK. Benson also repaced the cable with NOS Omega cables. Happy boy!

 

[ruhian]

Hi all I have an option to grab a 007a or a 007 mkI at the same price ~$1,500, which should I choose?

Will get to test but not audition. Current setup is L700 and Srm1mkII (understand its not optimal).

While the 007 mkI seems more popular, its really old, and may run into issues and be hard to maintain

Your thoughts?

 

[catscratch]

What's the serial number prefix of the mk1? The best ones are the 70xxx serials followed by the 71xxx. The later ones start with SZ1 - those sound a bit darker and more muffled.

Basically, the main thing to watch out for with a mk1 is intermittance issues. The cables had inadequate strain relief, and occasionally the solder joint between cable and driver breaks. This will make the channel with the break cut in and out occasionally. So you want to make sure that this doesn't happen, you can fix it but you'll need to send it to someone qualified as it's a risky fix to do.

Channel balance issues are possible, if there is significant imbalance it points to driver issues and that will necessitate driver replacement. These days Stax will just throw in a pair of the latest mk2 drivers in there and they won't sound the same.

The other things to watch out for are pad wear and headband wear, the foam inside the pads doesn't last very long and if the pads are super worn you'll have to replace them. The headband elastic also wears out and becomes loose over time, but again you can just replace it with a generic elastic of a similar size and then cut it down to whatever size you want.

With a 007a, there have been so many revisions that it's hard so say what's what. Its sound will depend on what revision it is. But generally speaking, the mk1 will be better, and I'd take the mk1 if it's in good condition.

 

[ruhian]

@catscratch thank you for your advice sir. It is a 70xxx, pads and elastic seem in ok condition. Worried that the solder joint has been through wear and tear, and may be good now, but not so within a year or so...

 

[mulveling]

@ruhian 70xxx is very desirable! It all comes down to how much you can trust the seller (100% feedback at a minimum, etc) and if you have any appetite for the additional risk posed by older units. I gambled on a 71xxx unit and it was perfect - superb cosmetic & pad condition, no connection issues, perfect L/R channel balance, fantastic sound. The seller was/is active in posting here, and an extremely trustworthy fellow! I eventually sold it, but maybe should have kept that pair. I later got another 71xxx from my bff @purk, and as expected that was perfect as well. I can also happily confirm that the sound quality of the two units was 100% alike!

 

[ruhian]

@mulveling got it, it seems that mkI is simply higher risk higher reward...and I'm close to making the jump.

anyone with any bad experiences with the mk1s? or prefer the mk2 sound?

lastly on amp pairing - think my srm1mk1's wont bring out their full potential - heard KGHSSHV Carbon might be a good idea, but if we look at tubes Blue Hawaii or Grounded Grid?

Thanks all

 

[oneguy]

I wouldn’t pair a 007 with a BH or GG. It needs the solid state to brighten it up.

 

[Kiats]

@mulveling got it, it seems that mkI is simply higher risk higher reward...and I'm close to making the jump.

anyone with any bad experiences with the mk1s? or prefer the mk2 sound?

lastly on amp pairing - think my srm1mk1's wont bring out their full potential - heard KGHSSHV Carbon might be a good idea, but if we look at tubes Blue Hawaii or Grounded Grid?

Thanks all

I do enjoy the Mk1. So much that I actually have 2 pairs (as insurance). What I will say is that the Mk1 needs more power. If not, it will sound dark. I have not heard the KGGG but it sounds great off the Carbon and the KGST.

I might be wrong but I recall the BHSE was designed to better drive the 007 Mk1.

 

[zolkis]

anyone with any bad experiences with the mk1s? or prefer the mk2 sound?
lastly on amp pairing - think my srm1 mk1's wont bring out their full potential - heard KGHSSHV Carbon might be a good idea, but if we look at tubes Blue Hawaii or Grounded Grid?

I had a 70xxx Mk1 and also a Mk2. I published their measurements earlier in this thread.
The Mk1 had smoother sound, better bass extension. The Mk2 had better bass kick and somewhat more rough treble, but it was very well suited to jazz for instance.
My choice would be the Mk1. I did make mods (used modded 009 pads instead of the 007 pads + spring).
The BHSE plays wonderfully with the 007 Mk1. The SRM-1 Mk2 with some PSU upgrades could drive it, but wasn't the best still.
The Carbon and GG should be even better, and they can stay over headphone upgrades.

 

[number1sixerfan]

@mulveling got it, it seems that mkI is simply higher risk higher reward...and I'm close to making the jump.

anyone with any bad experiences with the mk1s? or prefer the mk2 sound?

lastly on amp pairing - think my srm1mk1's wont bring out their full potential - heard KGHSSHV Carbon might be a good idea, but if we look at tubes Blue Hawaii or Grounded Grid?

Thanks all

I would echo everyone else and go for the MK1, as long as it's in good shape and it's from a reputable seller.

I would just mention that the 007 needs a lot of power and although it can sound decent without it, you leave a lot of performance on the table if not. The SRM-1 MK2 isn't going to cut it, and I have one as an emergency back up amp and it's pretty much a non-starter with the 007. But that part you know.

I would also say that the BHSE does not cut it either. I only have this perspective after pairing it with a DIY T2, in which I saw a HUGE performance jump. Much better resolution, far more lively and energetic (I have a SZ1-xx model), with better bass performance and just really well balanced overall. Similar improvements were seen in the also very hard to drive SGL Sr. and to a much lesser degree the CRBN (which isn't nearly as hard to drive as these two). I'm not saying you need to spend T2 money however, just that the BHSE leaves some performance on the table with really hard to drive stats. I would probably go Carbon route.

 

[mulveling]

I wouldn’t pair a 007 with a BH or GG. It needs the solid state to brighten it up.

Agree, I liked it better with KGSShv Carbon than BHSE. And yes it's also great with T2, if a bit of a budget strain
The best price-to-performance amp I've heard with 007 MK I is my old IXYS 500V (onboard heat sinks) KGSShv from circa 2010. It's the most neutral sounding KGSShv I've heard. The Mjolnir mini KGSShv's were a bit bright to me (like the KGSShv Carbon), but this also paired well with 007 Mk I (I still liked my full size amp better). But if you can afford it (and not a T2), then a Carbon is the best bet.

On KGSShv's, there are a LOT of versions over the years, and I'd explicitly avoid the Sanyo 450V versions, which are too warm and dulled sounding. Also had a Mjolnir prototype-mini I wasn't particularly impressed with - sounded dry and sterile compared to a good full-size build.

 

[ruhian]

So I took the plunge, thanks all for your advice....tried it out on BHSE at the previous owners house, was blown away, cant believe they are still lacking / not at their full potential...
Edit: after plugging in to Srm1s I'm slightly disappointed hahaha it's not the same - was previously doubtful that it would makes such a difference hahaha