[Zoide]

Good to see you still around! Can't believe it's been so long since we started posting on head-fi.
I haven't heard all the new stuff. There's just so much these days. I still have a 007 Mk I and 009. It's so hard to amp them to potential. Only on a DIY T2 do I not find them lacking in any way. On a KGSShv they're both quite competent & enjoyable, but not "quite there" for me. The 007 Mk I is a bit dark and sleepy. The 009 has its slightly cold tone - and I was so enthralled with them at first (circa 2014). Now the 007 and 009 only sound "perfect" (each their own version of perfect) to me on T2 - it really does some magic there to fix the 009's tone while advancing all other attributes too. On BHSE (going on memory here) both 007 and 009 are certainly better than KGSShv, but honestly it's still much closer to the KGSShv level than T2 (that goes for most amps, actually). The L700 (both MK I and Mk II) is so much easier to max out, and so engaging when you do so. Like I said the L700 / hev90 pairing is blowing my mind. It's such an addictive sound, short of only a 007 / 009 + T2. I have some sort of part issue with my T2, or else I've be able to listen to that more, btw.

The ES-R10 is also wonderful in its own way, and much easier to drive to great heights than any Stax. It won't match a well-driven L700, 007, or 009 in detail. But has excellent detail for a dynamic driver. Its layering of information in the soundstage is really special, courtesy of the zelkova chambers. Nothing else quite like it (other than OG R10, of course). Doesn't sound like other closed headphones (in a good way). It's got a warm, sweet tone. No listening fatigue. And it's like a hard rocker's take on the original R10. More bass than the bass-heavy OG R10. Still not near basshead territory, and not as large a soundstage nor as technical as the OG. But quite honestly I sold the OG R10 because it couldn't rock. These can, and then some.

Oh my... I was tempted by a set of 007A / 007 mk2 in like-new condition for ~1300 euros, but not if it means having to spend several thousand on a "Mafia" amp too make them sound good!

Your ES-R10 description is so tempting, but I'd have to sell my lovely L700 to afford it.
Or maybe I could try a Nectar Hive X for less than half the money and enjoy it just as much...

I haven't seen that many mentions/comparisons of the Arya Stealth here (and its thread is not even part of the "High-end Audio Forum" here, so I'm guessing it's not really in the same league.

 

[mulveling]

Oh my... I was tempted by a set of 007A / 007 mk2 in like-new condition for ~1300 euros, but not if it means having to spend several thousand on a "Mafia" amp too make them sound good!

Your ES-R10 description is so tempting, but I'd have to sell my lovely L700 to afford it.
Or maybe I could try a Nectar Hive X for less than half the money and enjoy it just as much...

I haven't seen that many mentions/comparisons of the Arya Stealth here (and its thread is not even part of the "High-end Audio Forum" here, so I'm guessing it's not really in the same league.

Quite honestly you might enjoy the different presentation and perspective of 007 for a change of pace, even out of a less than ultra-fi amp. They're extremely enjoyable from my KGSShv, though right now my preferences lean more towards a well driven (w/ tubes preferably) L700 or the easily driven ES-R10. If you're amp isn't very powerful AND you enjoy higher volumes you may run into more trouble with 007 - my MK I's do seem as much as ~ 6dB less efficient than the L700, as the other poster mentioned.

I'd hold on to your L700 Mk I for sure. Don't sell them for a 007 or ES-R10. But explore those when you can

 

[Aspirant Audiophile]

I have a question about the lifespan of a BHSE in comparison with other ES amps.

How long can one expect a BHSE to last? How long will an ES headphone amp last, period? Something I have not factored into my setup budget is repair costs...I'm not so worried about the first few years, but I am worried about Decade #2.

 

[nepherte]

I have a question about the lifespan of a BHSE in comparison with other ES amps.

Mine's been chugging along for 6 years now. Still going strong. Tubes aren't pushed hard at all, so they should generally last for a long time. I'd say worst that can happen is a tripped fuse, which can easily be replaced. That's not to say it can't die on you, but I haven't seen many reports of it.

 

[Aspirant Audiophile]

Mine's been chugging along for 6 years now. Still going strong. Tubes aren't pushed hard at all, so they should generally last for a long time. I'd say worst that can happen is a tripped fuse, which can easily be replaced. That's not to say it can't die on you, but I haven't seen many reports of it.

I have an opportunity to get a 2012-model BHSE is why I ask. I'm a bit leery of buying a ten-year-old amp.

 

[nepherte]

I have an opportunity to get a 2012-model BHSE is why I ask. I'm a bit leery of buying a ten-year-old amp.

I wouldn't be overly concerned about that. If it's a trustworthy seller, the unit is in good working condition and the price is right, then go for it.

Disclaimer: I plan on letting mine go as well in the near future as I have a diy T2 from Kerry commissioned. Take my opinion for what it is

 

[bigjako]

Your best bet in this hobby (or at least my best bet) was finding someone who could service amps. There’s no way in hell I trust myself beyond some simple mods. In LA, I found Mike Check audio and have taken all my amps to Mike, and he’s solved my problems for $200 or less every time.

I still have an 006t from 1992 with the original tubes in it. Mike applied Dominik’s CCS mod for me. He fixed up my Electra when I got it, good as new. If you find someone who could service gear, you’ll be able to keep decades old amps in shape. The innards are all pretty low tech, this isn’t like finding someone to service your circuit boards in a laptop.

 

[number1sixerfan]

I have an opportunity to get a 2012-model BHSE is why I ask. I'm a bit leery of buying a ten-year-old amp.

Without any real data, it's pretty much impossible to speak toward long term longevity. And the reality is that things happen and the likelihood increases with age. Given the age, I probably would only pull the trigger if it was an extremely attractive price. I certainly wouldn't pay anywhere near the regular going rate.

In your case I would probably look at alternatives or save up to buy new.

 

[eskamobob1]

Hey guys. Trying to figure out what an old stax model is called. It's the one with drivers basicaly perpendicular to your ears and a massive box. I think its 80s but I'm not positive. Anyone know the model I'm talking about?

Edit: found it. SR-Sigma

 

[Aspirant Audiophile]

Without any real data, it's pretty much impossible to speak toward long term longevity. And the reality is that things happen and the likelihood increases with age. Given the age, I probably would only pull the trigger if it was an extremely attractive price. I certainly wouldn't pay anywhere near the regular going rate.

In your case I would probably look at alternatives or save up to buy new.

Many thanks, I PM'd you about this topic and on the advice of others.

 

[tjlindle]

Thanks @tjlindle, great read. I have the 404 version and my experience lines up with yours, subject to the differences between the 404 and the L700. I periodically consider selling mine, because they just don’t get the head time of my others (because of the non-all roundedness you point out), but in the end they provide such a unique experience that while the Omegas may be objectively better, the Sigmas are one of a kind and deserve a spot at the Stax family table. I love mine with acoustic rock and, particularly, live jazz.

I do find I need to turn up the volume relative to all the other Lambdas but that’s just the nature of the housing and driver placement. I have toyed with the idea of lining them with some other material, to lessen the dampening to try to reclaim some of the sub bass or slam, but then I worry I’ll just screw them up and I leave well enough alone. I also put a little glue where the driver housing connects to the gimbal to give them a little extra purchase. Benson told me that the non-Sigma headbands don’t play perfectly well with the increased housing size, so watch for them coming disconnected while you’re listening.

I've been reading up more on the Sigma and the importance of the damping material, I'm also considering fudging with it a bit to see if I can get less rolloff in the sub bass.

Another member told me the Sigma Pro extends quite well on the low-end so, it's possible that either different damping material/amount, or the L700 driver itself is the culprit (after all the L700 is not a bass cannon by any means, especially compared to a lot of its Lambda predecessors).

I am running them from a 353X, but I'm considering an energizer to hook them up to some pretty large vintage stereo amps I have around. Just to get them really juiced up and see what happens. I'm not entirely sure how to determine what constitutes a "good" amp to tap into regardless, am I shooting for 100wpc minimum? 150? Class A only?

Curious what would happen if you tapped some estats into a professional grade power amp (>1000wpc) would they explode? Would the SRD-7 collapse on itself? Just wondering where the upper limit is with these.

Thanks for the tip re: the housing/headband, I've been very careful with it so far fearing that that exact thing would happen

 

[KDS315]

Nothing woud happen, as their impedance is that high, that those power amps would hardly provide enough voltage to make them even move - despite the lack of bias voltage which is essential to their function. :LAUGH:

 

[zomkung]

I have a SR007 MK1 (broken cable) and a brand new SR-007 MK-II

How should I put a mod on?

Blu-tac on MK-II and swap the spring with MK1 and MK-II?


Note: MK1 is very old but still usable, only the cable is broken.

 

[KDS315]

Get a new cable for your MK1!!

 

[zomkung]

Get a new cable for your MK1!!

I cannot find any spare part, that's why I bought MK-2