[goodsguys]

Just purchased sparkos opamps for an asus stxII soundcard and have replaced the 3 muses,

What do think about increasing the size of the 220uf capacitor across the opamp power lines to help provide more power and stability.

The sparkos are class A and have a higher current draw, do you think a larger cap, or a few more 220uf caps in parallel, would help.

Did read earlier about a 10uf silimic being good in this position, so decreasing the size of the capacitor seems another option.

Or am i entirely wrong, is it the atx power supply within the pc that is more important then local bypass capacitors.

Thanks!

 

[HeyManslowdown97]

I wish people would mention both the devices and opamps they are trying in them, when they give their opinion

There are several reasons why I don’t like to say what device I’m putting my op amps in. One is that op amp itself has its own particular audio signature and how it compares to circuitry can really be affected in either a positive or negative way as to how it’s implemented into a particular DAC.

I don’t believe that there is a “better or worse” audio modern op amp. However, Many manufacturers today aren’t making op amps exclusively for audio unless it’s a company like Bursons or companies like TI or JRC making an exclusive audio line like “MUSE” or the 16xx series of audio amps made by TI. Moreover, the majority of those lines are built on previous archetypes of famous and glorious makeups of op amps made 20-30 years ago!

The main difference is better nano technology computations with 3D printers/laser trimmings and better transistors, etc. For audio application any modern op amp will be able to perform at a high level (provided it’s a genuine part that’s gone through a quality controlled testing in the supply chain).

So then it becomes a question of taste and musical preferences. Some people prefer narrow or a wide soundstage due to what will enhance the music genre they prefer, etc and some will prefer what can described as “warm” “bright” “neutral” and any other adjective used to describe sound quality/signature.

I actually don’t have problem mentioning what devices I’m using my op amps on if it’s a formed in question of a device I own like ”what would sound good in x device...” to give suggestion. But to state it in general I feel muddy’s the waters.

 

[bogginhead]

Has anyone here used or heard any gear using the AD LT1169? I received a couple of samples of it in DIP-8 and I can't find out much about it online. Supposedly it's supposed to have very low distortion, but I can't seem to find anything else on it.

 

[HeyManslowdown97]

Has anyone here used or heard any gear using the AD LT1169?

Funny you mentioned the LT1169 because I did a cross reference of AD part for the Opa2111 (which I get in the mail today & has very little said about IT on the internet).

Your best bet (if you don’t get response) is to try it and if you feel comfortable sharing your thoughts and opinions on the thread.

If it helps Lt1113 also popped up so they may sound similar or relate since they both dual fet with low noise?? Not sure as I haven’t used either??

 

[goodsguys]

How much of a difference is there between sparkos dual and muse 02, i know the answer is somewhere in this thread but to help me from having to read through hundreds of pages, can you please help.
Is there a minor improvement, or is it more night-and-day.
Thank you

 

[spbkaizo]

Hey has anyone tried the ADA4625?

https://www.analog.com/en/products/ada4625-1.html

I've just placed one into a headphone amp. I really really like it. Worth getting to experiment with, great clean sound and seems to help low end a lot.

 

[HeyManslowdown97]

I've just placed one into a headphone amp. I really really like it. Worth getting to experiment with, great clean sound and seems to help low end a lot.

Thanks for the feedback. How is the soundstage? That’s my biggest concern after the cleanest

 

[Rroff]

I wish people would mention both the devices and opamps they are trying in them, when they give their opinion.

Mostly my impressions have been from various DIY amps so mentioning the device itself is somewhat meaningless to most people :s (generally loosely of similar principles to the O2 and PBA amps but also fairly different from the stock version of those designs). DAC wise fairly varied - including a SB X-Fi, Creative AE-5 and a couple of standalone DACs that use variants of the ESS Sabre and I've built some DIY DACs based on TI's PCM series.

Broadly the impression of an opamp is similar but different circuits can change things - the biggest difference I find, other than what actual stage the opamp is used in, is what if any capacitor is close to and bridging the + and - power pins of an opamp especially perception of bass and soundstage.

I love the AD8066 it’s really alive and has the best sounding bass I’ve heard in op amp but it’s fatiguing for me.

AD8066 is something else if you use it in a "dual mono" type pseudo balanced amp with an active ground with a 10uf Nichicon FG or KZ series bridging the power pins - does need headphones with separate grounds to each driver though and you do get slightly increased noise floor compared to some other approaches but the overall result is really pleasing for music listening - the upper mid-range veil is almost entirely gone and the result is far more effortless sound.

 

[HeyManslowdown97]

AD8066 is something else if you use it in a "dual mono" type pseudo balanced amp with an active ground with a 10uf Nichicon FG or KZ series bridging the power pins - does need headphones with separate grounds to each driver though and you do get slightly increased noise floor compared to some other approaches but the overall result is really pleasing for music listening - the upper mid-range veil is almost entirely gone and the result is far more effortless sound.

Awesome stuff. Great explanation about the relationships between ICs and Op Amps too!

In my experience with op amps it has been the exact same. I’ve tweet with the caps and improved power supplies and lot of the “problems” went away immediately with my favorite op amps ! The “trick” is finding the right tweak!!!!

Right now, I’m rocking a Opa2111kp. It’s really, really nice. I love how it’s balanced with nice bass and tremble. Love the Opa2107 for its laid back and dark sounding but that (I know is an acquired taste).

If I can somehow get the Opa627 2x to fit in a limited space dap and prevent it from oscillating that would be my first choice!

I love the dynamic sound of the AD8620 but it’s a little to harsh in the high frequency. If someone can “solve” that problem with tweaks on a dac IC it would make it something really, really special.

As far as quality, all the modern op amps are of high performance (IMO) the only thing to concern oneself is with finding the best Audio signature and then optimize it. It’s also a good ideas to know what you want in a sound and what genre you listen to most for best audio signature. If you are lucky to have multiple DACs with DIY op amp rolling Capabilities even better!

Thanks the to tip with the AD8066. Will experiment with that rig you presented here! The bass is just soo sweet on that op amp!

 

[mwildebeast]

Just finished some basic portable stuff with 3x P(rototype)-OPA1656 and 2x OPA1688 in parallel, wow 1656 heat up like hell compare to 1652 in this same system. still in burn in phase (yes a believer here )

I know this thread and post are a bit old, but after your op-amps burned in, did you notice any sort of meaningful difference in sound quality? I actually recognize the PCB as coming from a Topping NX4 DSD, since I have one, and I began looking into the 1656 because like you, I wanted to upgrade the op-amps that Topping used (mostly just because I can lol). I already have some 1656's on the way, and they should be here by the weekend. It would be great to know if it will be worth the effort!

I was going to replace the 1688's with the 1656's as well, but it sounds like the 1656's aren't really designed for driving headphones (due to the capacitive loads). I mostly wanted to replace the 1688's with the hope of getting more output current. Plus, the 1656 seems to have generally better specs.

 

[Rroff]

What do think about increasing the size of the 220uf capacitor across the opamp power lines to help provide more power and stability.

The sparkos are class A and have a higher current draw, do you think a larger cap, or a few more 220uf caps in parallel, would help.

Did read earlier about a 10uf silimic being good in this position, so decreasing the size of the capacitor seems another option.

Or am i entirely wrong, is it the atx power supply within the pc that is more important then local bypass capacitors.

Thanks!

I wouldn't go changing 220uf capacitors that are close to the opamp at random - they are often specced at 220uf for ESR reasons both in terms of power delivery to the opamp(s) themselves and if applicable the regulators feeding them will sometimes have an ESR range needed for stability - without knowing the requirements of the broader circuit the results could be unknown.

Bulk capacitor banks in the power supply phase (you'll often find 4x 470uf - 2 per rail) and generally you can add or upgrade the capacitors there to improve the power filtering without issue but that won't necessarily help if the opamps need a local supply to deal with current spikes (though this is less usual to find on a PC soundcard).

There are various combinations of 10uf (usually paired with a 0.1-0.22uf ceramic or film) either rail to ground or rail to rail that can have an impact on performance but generally specific to certain opamps like the LM4562 that might be having stability issues in certain circuits.

 

[Jimmy24]

I know this thread and post are a bit old, but after your op-amps burned in, did you notice any sort of meaningful difference in sound quality? I actually recognize the PCB as coming from a Topping NX4 DSD, since I have one, and I began looking into the 1656 because like you, I wanted to upgrade the op-amps that Topping used (mostly just because I can lol). I already have some 1656's on the way, and they should be here by the weekend. It would be great to know if it will be worth the effort!

I was going to replace the 1688's with the 1656's as well, but it sounds like the 1656's aren't really designed for driving headphones (due to the capacitive loads). I mostly wanted to replace the 1688's with the hope of getting more output current. Plus, the 1656 seems to have generally better specs.

No noticeable difference as far as I can tell for the LM833N, OPA2107, and OPA2210. The Burson V6 Vivid's have about 20 hours but they told me I needed at least 100 hours before getting its full sound. I will let you know when I go past that and see if I notice a difference.

 

[Jimmy24]

How much of a difference is there between sparkos dual and muse 02, i know the answer is somewhere in this thread but to help me from having to read through hundreds of pages, can you please help.
Is there a minor improvement, or is it more night-and-day.
Thank you

I would like to know how the MUSE02 compares with OPA2107, but would like to know people's thoughts on the Sparkos Dual, is it worth it?

 

[HeyManslowdown97]

Maybe stupid question but is it possible to replace BUF634 with a single op amp like Opa627??

Also can the BUF634 be used a headphone driving output amp if you put two onto a SOP-to-Dip adapter. If so what sound signature would “buffer” op amp have like the BUF634??!

 

[endia]

Maybe stupid question but is it possible to replace BUF634 with a single op amp like Opa627??

you can but you need an adapter since they are not pin compatible. also while doing that, you're losing buffers high output current (250 mA buf634 vs 55 mA opa627) and almost zero output impedance advantages of buffer..

Also can the BUF634 be used a headphone driving output amp if you put two onto a SOP-to-Dip adapter. If so what sound signature would “buffer” op amp have like the BUF634??!

buffers do not amplify signal voltage, it's output is same as the input voltage.. using it in the gain stage is pointless..