[seedubchris]

I don’t know why people are so eager to “upgrade” cables without analyzing the sound first. Listen to many sources and genres. The manufacture spent great deal of time and effort to create its sound signature. Sure, your source affects, but still give it a chance. If eventually the signarture isn’t to your liking, then ask yourself: “What am I missing here?”

More highs? Go silver. But remember, it may turn glaring, even overbearingly so.

The bottom is too thin? Opt for copper. Still, that initial smoothness may end up mawkish.

Just wish to “open” the sound? Choose silver coated copper. You may not detect any difference, especially if the stock cable is SCP.

Be wise. Don’t throw hundreds or thousands of dollars on cables. Remember: TPU loves to turn green…cables don’t last long in general. Look for value.

Finally, an audiophile can easily morph into an audiofool. Look at digital cables. People spend thousands of dollars on cables that merely transmit zeroes and ones, swearing that special silver mined in the mountains of Chile improves the sound so much…lol.

Digital cables are not all equal . There are all kinds of impedences and ohm requirements... people used to think digital clocks were all the same and redbook was as good as it would get. Rob Watts of chord has shown me otherwise .

 

[seedubchris]

Delete

 

[crinacle]

Digital cables are not all equal . There are all kinds of impedences and ohm requirements... people used to think digital clocks were all the same and redbook was as good as it would get. Rob Watts of chord has shown me otherwise .

Why are you digging up a post from half a year ago? Sound Science is that way

 

[seedubchris]

Bored I guess .. nuthin personal .

 

[PunchLine]

Digital cables are not all equal . There are all kinds of impedences and ohm requirements... people used to think digital clocks were all the same and redbook was as good as it would get. Rob Watts of chord has shown me otherwise .

What’s does people perception of Redbook have to do with digital cables?
And what does Rob Watts have to do with digital cables?
You’re really all over the place…

This statement:

Digital cables are not all equal . There are all kinds of impedences and ohm requirements

At first, I thought you’re merely stating the obvious fact that both AES, SPDIF, USB and Topslink cables are in existence. But your second post clarify that in your mind not all standard-meeting USB cables (for example) are equal and some offer better sound quality.

This thread has not room for this discussion, so I suggest you Google the subject and educate yourself. There are many great exchanges and papers in which your opinion has been scientifically and empirically destroyed. Shredded to pieces, including every one your points.

I find it important to reply since your opinion could lead people astray and encourage them to spend money on products that bring them no advantage.

A good sound to you all.

 

[melons]

especially on the left side. Pulling that one out is not comfortable as well. I would have preferred a less deep nozzle, but on the other hand isolation is very good.

Have you tried twisting/rotating the iem's slightly to extract from your ear?. I'm not an 64Audio owner, but my CA Andromedas (std. not custom) are very difficult to pull out of my ears with most tips but if I rotate the iem anti-clockwise they just slide out (might help/work with your customs?), If not I'll happily swop for a pair of Sennheiser IE80S iem's

 

[Deezel177]

Have you tried twisting/rotating the iem's slightly to extract from your ear?. I'm not an 64Audio owner, but my CA Andromedas (std. not custom) are very difficult to pull out of my ears with most tips but if I rotate the iem anti-clockwise they just slide out (might help/work with your customs?), If not I'll happily swop for a pair of Sennheiser IE80S iem's

Very important tip, indeed. When pulling out customs, the most ideal method I've found is to unhook the concha, then twisting forwards as you pull them out. This should follow the natural contours of the ear and make the in-ears slide out painlessly no matter how tight (and my A6t's are personally the tightest I own).

 

[davidcotton]

Very important tip, indeed. When pulling out customs, the most ideal method I've found is to unhook the concha, then twisting forwards as you pull them out. This should follow the natural contours of the ear and make the in-ears slide out painlessly no matter how tight (and my A6t's are personally the tightest I own).

To take it slightly further, some people also recommend using the cable socket that plugs in (note, NOT the cable itself and I take no responsibility if it goes wrong!) for something to grab on to as well.

 

[Deezel177]

To take it slightly further, some people also recommend using the cable socket that plugs in (note, NOT the cable itself and I take no responsibility if it goes wrong!) for something to grab on to as well.

I'd personally recommend against it as it may cause pressure (or strain) towards the connector and/or socket. Placing your thumb under the connector as you grab onto the IEM to create a fulcrum of sorts is as far as I'd go.

 

[plakat]

Have you tried twisting/rotating the iem's slightly to extract from your ear?. I'm not an 64Audio owner, but my CA Andromedas (std. not custom) are very difficult to pull out of my ears with most tips but if I rotate the iem anti-clockwise they just slide out (might help/work with your customs?), If not I'll happily swop for a pair of Sennheiser IE80S iem's

Very important tip, indeed. When pulling out customs, the most ideal method I've found is to unhook the concha, then twisting forwards as you pull them out. This should follow the natural contours of the ear and make the in-ears slide out painlessly no matter how tight (and my A6t's are personally the tightest I own).

Thanks to both of you. Actually twisting is what I do, but I'm still working on the right mix between twisting and pulling out That was way easier with those custom protection plugs, those do not go as deep and are made of rather soft silicone. The N8 is a much tighter fit and follows the contours of my ear canals much more.
But I'm getting better with each time...

I have to pass on the offer to swap for an IE80S though The N8 fits my taste very well, I really like what I hear. And did I mention that fantastic bass?

 

[seedubchris]

What’s does people perception of Redbook have to do with digital cables?
And what does Rob Watts have to do with digital cables?
You’re really all over the place…

This statement:

Digital cables are not all equal . There are all kinds of impedences and ohm requirements

At first, I thought you’re merely stating the obvious fact that both AES, SPDIF, USB and Topslink cables are in existence. But your second post clarify that in your mind not all standard-meeting USB cables (for example) are equal and some offer better sound quality.

This thread has not room for this discussion, so I suggest you Google the subject and educate yourself. There are many great exchanges and papers in which your opinion has been scientifically and empirically destroyed. Shredded to pieces, including every one your points.

I find it important to reply since your opinion could lead people astray and encourage them to spend money on products that bring them no advantage.

A good sound to you all.

Merely stating my opinion which last I heard I’m entitled to. Rob Watts has identified problems in the redbook coding and is improving the redbook standard decoding with Dave as I hear it any way showing there is room for improvement in today’s digital vs. vintage digital. Opinions have also progressed on the cable front in the same way so maybe today’s science just isn’t quite there to measure or quantify why these properties in cables do in fact change the sound. Shunyatta is working on a system that measures these properties in cables. Why can I clearly hear a difference in a toslink optical,vs usb etc.. in the professional world any old crap digital cable will not suffice . These cables are expensive just like the audiofile offerings because they use better materials and have been rigorously tested to deliver to spec.if I’m carrying around 7k worth of reference you can bet I’m not gonna skimp on the usb link from the ak380 to the Hugo and from the Hugo to the 18tzar which I receive in two weeks. Now I don’t advocate spending more than needed to get the right build in a cable but quality is quality ,and crap is crap right? For instance there are people that say you can’t possible hear the difference in audio cable. I sure as hell can .

You (or any one else) got any recommendations for what cable to use with my new CIEM tzars ? Seems like silver ain’t the way to go . Too resolving? I figure with the Hugo 2 something in a copper would smooth the top and give it a lift in the bass. I have PlusSound gold silver x6 which could be cool. A little rich sounding maybe. I’m in the states so Effect audio might be hard to swing. Any one tried the new Norn copper offerings ? Any one know the exact pin sizes and connector type used on the 18tzar? Thanks.

 

[PunchLine]

Merely stating my opinion which last I heard I’m entitled to. Rob Watts has identified problems in the redbook coding and is improving the redbook standard decoding with Dave as I hear it any way showing there is room for improvement in today’s digital vs. vintage digital.

Non sequitur

Opinions have also progressed on the cable front in the same way so maybe today’s science just isn’t quite there to measure or quantify why these properties in cables do in fact change the sound.

Whose opinions? If digital cables affect the sound, they are defected.if you want to change the sound, get an EQ.

Shunyatta is working on a system that measures these properties in cables.

A known leader in the snake oil busseiness. First they make claims, now they're trying to measure them. Brilliant.

Why can I clearly hear a difference in a toslink optical,vs usb etc..

Although both are digital, Topslink is an optical signal with jacks prone to jitter, whereas USB is voltage based, asynchronous with CRC logic. If you seek good SQ, avoid Topslink.

in the professional world any old crap digital cable will not suffice . These cables are expensive just like the audiofile offerings because they use better materials and have been rigorously tested to deliver to spec.

Sorry, you have no idea what you're talking about. Professional studios use exclusively $10 USB cables because they know they do the job perfectly well . It was design and tested to meet the USB requirements, and does so for years no end. Just visit a studio and suggest they switch to a $700 usb cable. They'll shoo you off, rolling in laughter. Audiophile cables in general, and more so digital, are banned from those facilities.

if I’m carrying around 7k worth of reference you can bet I’m not gonna skimp on the usb link from the ak380 to the Hugo and from the Hugo to the 18tzar which I receive in two weeks.

Many audiophile equate expensive with quality. The snake oil purveyors love it. I suggest you use the enclosed usb A&K. Their engineers settled on it for a reason.

Now I don’t advocate spending more than needed to get the right build in a cable but quality is quality ,and crap is crap right?

Sure, but a $10 usb cable is plenty high quality. It certainly transmits the data just as well as a $1,600 one.

For instance there are people that say you can’t possible hear the difference in audio cable. I sure as hell can .

Analog cables alter the sound signature, and it's perceived by most people. On the other hand, if a digital cable sounds different it means either impedence out of spec, poor terminators or shabby shielding.

You (or any one else) got any recommendations for what cable to use with my new CIEM tzars ? Seems like silver ain’t the way to go . Too resolving? I figure with the Hugo 2 something in a copper would smooth the top and give it a lift in the bass. I have PlusSound gold silver x6 which could be cool. A little rich sounding maybe. I’m in the states so Effect audio might be hard to swing. Any one tried the new Norn copper offerings ? Any one know the exact pin sizes and connector type used on the 18tzar? Thanks.

I find both silver and copper to tinged the sound way too much. I prefer silver coated copper. My life style is active, so I go for a 4-wire braid (for durability) . Check out Plunge Audio. That Canadian fellow builds mean cables for digestible prices.

 

[seedubchris]

Sorry, you have no idea what you're talking about. Professional studios use exclusively $10 USB cables because they know they do the job perfectly well . It was design and tested to meet the USB requirements, and does so for years no end. Just visit a studio and suggest they switch to a $700 usb cable. They'll shoo you off, rolling in laughter. Audiophile cables in general, and more so digital, are banned from those facilities.

Not in the pro recording studios I live in day in and day out including the one that I own and operate for a living for the last 30 years . It’s chock full of quality digital transfer cables including the usb cables . While you may have been reading up on the matter, I have been watching and working with Grammy winning artists and engineers and they don’t laugh me out of anywhere. The Sony room I worked in had the highest end cabling I have ever seen including 1k watt pass labs mono blocks . Maybe you should visit some higher end studios and see for yourself. Let’s just agree that we have different views and experiences relating to the subject. I agree with you that the usb cable may be the one digital cable where a cheap option will work just fine but the rest of your assumptions regarding quality cables being banned in mastering and recording studios is inaccurate in my experience. Cabling is a huge cost for any studio build,especially the more high end places that have Cardas patch bays and cabling through out .

So the a18 ships with a silver plated copper cable? If so maybe I should get a solid silver cable made up for some tonal variety. Anyone tried pure silver type 2 Litz with the a18 and if so how does it compare with the stock spc cabling? Is it possible that a aftermarket spc cable would be of a higher quality than the one supplied with the CIEM.? Someone reported the PlusSound silver copper X6 sounded good with the 18. I figure with the three options available I will be able to find the best cable for my needs. If anyone has been through this process please chime in.thanks

 

[toaster]

This thread is supposed to be about 64 Audio...

 

[ambrose1985]

can anyone tell me if 64audio is going to release another flagship anytime soon ?