[Mercuttio]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jahn Absolutely. My darth beyers with the Melos was amazing, glad you found them to be as well! btw folks, after you are done your Melos Pre-amp work, don't you think they deserve to be amped with some Melos Power amps? But not any old power amp... [size=xx-large] MELOS MONOBLOCKS. [/size]

John Grado's got some of those in his listening room.

 

[kiat]

I've just bought a Tesla ECC88 gold pin to replace the stock tube in my melos SHA-1 headphone amps.

Do I just directly replace tube? Is there any other steps that I need to do? Do I need to re-bias the amp again?

thanks for any advice given

 

[bozebuttons]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kiat I've just bought a Tesla ECC88 gold pin to replace the stock tube in my melos SHA-1 headphone amps. Do I just directly replace tube? Is there any other steps that I need to do? Do I need to re-bias the amp again? thanks for any advice given

Just install the tube directly,thats all you have to do other the making sure the amp is turned off

 

[kiat]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bozebuttons Just install the tube directly,thats all you have to do other the making sure the amp is turned off

thanks!! Was wondering if anyone has a copy of the manual. Got hold of this headphone amp without any manual.

 

[ironbut]

There's two Melos, a Sha-1 and a Gold. I think they were both under $650 and the Sha-1 has been serviced recently by Mark Porzelli (spelling probably).

 

[kiat]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironbut There's two Melos, a Sha-1 and a Gold. I think they were both under $650 and the Sha-1 has been serviced recently by Mark Porzelli (spelling probably).

What I have his the Melos SHA-1 version

 

[nikongod]

jahn had the manual posted on a temporary site about 2 weeks ago. it really dosnt give TOO much info.

mostly standard stuff like:
dont listen too loud so you dont screw up your ears.
the tubes that came with the amp are the best (********, but they are pretty good.)
it specifies the output impedances of the preamp, and headphone amp sections.

 

[kiat]

thanks. I'm drop jahn a msg to see if i can grab a copy from him.

thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikongod jahn had the manual posted on a temporary site about 2 weeks ago. it really dosnt give TOO much info. mostly standard stuff like: dont listen too loud so you dont screw up your ears. the tubes that came with the amp are the best (********, but they are pretty good.) it specifies the output impedances of the preamp, and headphone amp sections.

 

[nikongod]

the amp is working. if i told the boards how incredibly stupid my problem was most of you would not believe me, and the rest would accuse me of not wanting to square off against bozebutton & jahn's melos. i have been reduced to listening to ALL of my music on my omega 2's (or out of my icky portable amp) for the past few weeks, that should tell you all something.

until a proper battle can ensue, i have put the cover on the beast, and it will not be removed even to tube roll.

mini meet?
anywhere but my place.

 

[NoValidTitle]

Time for me to bump this sucker. Any progress made on you amps Computerpro or Nikon? I've got my SHA-Gold (Thx compro) and ordered a Hakko 936 today! I read the whole thread and the mods don't seem that hard I've done pleeeenty of soldering I've just never owned a good iron.

I will post pics in here as I mod away to contribute to the east coast Maestrobations.

 

[nikongod]

the only mods left to either of my amps (i bought a sha-1) is (are?) tantalium resistor upgrades, and riken ohm plate resistors. i have all of the parts, and know why carlo charged people crazy money to do this mod. there are many resistors. im not too hot on the plate resistor upgrade because both of my amps had been through MAR who used a plate resistor "network" i dont exactly understand so i dont want to change that. between PTP wiring and the spaghetti on the board, i have a tough time even following their thing end to end... they certanly installed this "system" for a reason, i just dont know how it works to see if i should rebuild it that way with better resistors, or just use the design on the schematic (and board.)

i had some "issues" with the gold, so it is out of comission for the moment.

there are some solid differences between the gold and the sha-1 in the PSU department. the gold has a better active filtration system that is actually more like 4 active filters in series. the sha-1 has a pretty simple actuve stage. the differences in PSU dont tell the whole story though (its never easy when dealing with this crap... but it sounds good in the end) on the sha-gold, the HV PSU actually starts on the back left of the board, goes to the middle left of the board, goes to the EXACT center of the board, then crosses through EVERYTHING across the audio path to the active stage, then crosses BACK across everything to the last bit. why they didnt just idolate the whole HV psu to a cormer is beyond me, the circuit is great, but the layout is poor. with the sha-1 the HV psu is more isolated. it comes close to the audio bits, but not as close, and it dosnt do that criss-crossy trick. there is no left chanel noise on a sha-1, but the psu is a little hissier. left chanel noise until removed is wayyyyy worse than the psu hiss.

 

[NoValidTitle]

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikongod /img/forum/go_quote.gif the only mods left to either of my amps (i bought a sha-1) is (are?) tantalium resistor upgrades, and riken ohm plate resistors. i have all of the parts, and know why carlo charged people crazy money to do this mod. there are many resistors. im not too hot on the plate resistor upgrade because both of my amps had been through MAR who used a plate resistor "network" i dont exactly understand so i dont want to change that. between PTP wiring and the spaghetti on the board, i have a tough time even following their thing end to end... they certanly installed this "system" for a reason, i just dont know how it works to see if i should rebuild it that way with better resistors, or just use the design on the schematic (and board.) i had some "issues" with the gold, so it is out of comission for the moment. there are some solid differences between the gold and the sha-1 in the PSU department. the gold has a better active filtration system that is actually more like 4 active filters in series. the sha-1 has a pretty simple actuve stage. the differences in PSU dont tell the whole story though (its never easy when dealing with this crap... but it sounds good in the end) on the sha-gold, the HV PSU actually starts on the back left of the board, goes to the middle left of the board, goes to the EXACT center of the board, then crosses through EVERYTHING across the audio path to the active stage, then crosses BACK across everything to the last bit. why they didnt just idolate the whole HV psu to a cormer is beyond me, the circuit is great, but the layout is poor. with the sha-1 the HV psu is more isolated. it comes close to the audio bits, but not as close, and it dosnt do that criss-crossy trick. there is no left chanel noise on a sha-1, but the psu is a little hissier. left chanel noise until removed is wayyyyy worse than the psu hiss.

I'd love to get a close look at that resistor network that MAR came up with. Maybe at a meet someday if it doesn't involve gutting the amp to see.

I'm going to start getting a cap list together. I'd like to place an order for most if not all of the caps by Sunday(right now about $500 to work with). This will be a very well documented project with pics detailing as much as I can. Any help on parts would be much appreciated. I'm going to use what I can from previous posts and looking around on PCX. I'm looking to use Auricaps and the higher end Blackgates wherever possible. I'd rather spend the money and do it right the first time then change them out later.

First question is... I noticed in pictures of bozebuttons amp the 4 caps at the front left and front right of the board(with the amp facing you) are yellow Auricaps. In someone elses pictures there were black caps in this spot(blackgates?) are there any sonic differences between the 2 in that location?

2. I've noticed some differences regarding the humungo cap in some of the Melos in this thread. What is the purpose of said cap?

3. Nikon why did you take out the cap near the M in Melos on the board? (the red part of the picture)

4. What is this green area that is only on Bozes unit?

 

[bozebuttons]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoValidTitle /img/forum/go_quote.gif 2. I've noticed some differences regarding the humungo cap in some of the Melos in this thread. What is the purpose of said cap? 4. What is this green area that is only on Bozes unit?

2 Solen cap which came in some golds & referance amps stock from melos.
4.those are offboard mounted Blackgate caps for the power supply,also has a larger transformer.

 

[nikongod]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoValidTitle /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'd love to get a close look at that resistor network that MAR came up with. Maybe at a meet someday if it doesn't involve gutting the amp to see.

if my amp and you are at a meet, youa re welcome to crack it open.
Quote:

I'm going to start getting a cap list together. I'd like to place an order for most if not all of the caps by Sunday(right now about $500 to work with). This will be a very well documented project with pics detailing as much as I can. Any help on parts would be much appreciated. I'm going to use what I can from previous posts and looking around on PCX. I'm looking to use Auricaps and the higher end Blackgates wherever possible. I'd rather spend the money and do it right the first time then change them out later.

if you have a schematic, pay MOST attention to the caps CLOSER to the tubes and mosfets. the LV caps before the regulators are of little value... maybe swap something bigger in, but dont go all boutique here... the HV suply is a bit of a debate. i only upgraded the cap which you circled as missing

on my amp, i used the film ONLY for that cap, no electrolytic. the power coming off of the regulator is pretty clean, the cap is just there to hold it rock solid. caps that are "immediately before" the plate resistors have an efect on the sound, and i like film there. it was also less expensive than a black gate (the big film cap was used elsewhere on the MAR moded melos's)
Quote:

First question is... I noticed in pictures of bozebuttons amp the 4 caps at the front left and front right of the board(with the amp facing you) are yellow Auricaps. In someone elses pictures there were black caps in this spot(blackgates?) are there any sonic differences between the 2 in that location?

the 4 HUGE tall caps near the front of the case are the output caps for the preamp stage. in my amp they are solens, stock was a "melos" branded part whcih i have no idea where it came from
Quote:

2. I've noticed some differences regarding the humungo cap in some of the Melos in this thread. What is the purpose of said cap?

i think you are talking about the film cap.
i dont know where carlo put it on the bosebuttons amp

on my MAR amp, it came directly across the DC side of the HV recifyer. i removed it from there and replaced the last electrolytic with it.

 

[NoValidTitle]

Just the two people I wanted to reply! Thanks that info helps a ton. Boze out of curiosity could you post a pic of the front of your amp? Looking at the pictures it looks like you have some crazy front panel setup.