[krude]

I've recently upgraded the connectors on my Toxic SW22 (silver/gold) cable for my HEKse. With the conclusion that the connectors are also very important and well worth getting the best available for that cable. I fitted the connectors myself and, despite my dodgy amateurish soldering skills (using Oyaide silver solder), the SQ differences were obvious from the first few seconds of listening.

My SW22 originally came with own-brand Toxic gold-plated connectors as these were the cheapest. They looked good with a carbon fibre-like finish, but made no claims to any audiophile credentials. When I upgraded from HEK V2 to SE with larger sockets, I replaced the 2.5mm Toxic jacks with 3.5mm ViaBlue gold-plated - a bit more expensive and very well constructed, but still no claims to any audiophile credentials. This was a couple of years ago and I can't remember if I noticed a difference in SQ, which suggests that the difference was not memorable.

More recently, I swapped the connectors for the best I could find. The key audiophile credentials for both AECO and Furutech is that the pins are one piece end to end milled from solid metal; and the core metal is copper rather than nickle/brass/etc. Whether these two factors matter in practice can only be determined by listening.

First I replaced the ViaBlues with AECO Gold plated. I could have chosen rhodium or silver, but went for the allegedly warmer sound of gold plating to see if that tamed the HEKse's slightly forward nature. The AECO's did inded have a slightly warm presentation, but the fundamental benefits were across the board - all the usual cliches. On a practical note, these tiny plugs were a pain for an amateur to solder and I wasn't impressed with the cable strain relief mechanism, but for SQ they were worth the £80 per pair.

Then I replaced the Toxic 6.3mm jack with a Furutech rhodium plated. The SQ improvements were also across the board, but it did follow rhodium's reputation by imparting a more neutral and transparent overall presentation that rather nicely balanced out the AECO's warmer gold presentation. Because there's only one plug to change, it's even better value at £40.

Whilst I could immediately notice the SQ differences, both connectors then suffered from a burn-in period. I've convinced myself that this is not just me getting used to a new presentation - because the sound could flip one day to the next, from say a bright forward presentation to dark subdued and then back again. I felt the gold AECO settled down after about 1 week, and I'm still not sure if the rhodium Furutech has fully settled after 2 weeks. Of course, the longer the period the harder it is to determine what's what, but I've satisfied myself that some of this is due to real burn-in. So when people think they're hearing new headphones burn-in, it may be the headphones themselves, or the cable, or the connectors - I suspect it's a combination of all three.

When you mentioned your system soundijg differently back and forth, are you sure its not power related?

 

[TheAttorney]

When you mentioned your system soundijg differently back and forth, are you sure its not power related?

It would be foolish to be absolutely sure of any subjective test.
I do appreciate that it is easy to be fooled by all sorts of variables like power supply, system warm-up times, mood, expectation etc.

But I do my best to try to mitigate these things - I think it helps that I have a fairly constant main rig with just a single headphone that I have got to know over months and years. I get to know the sound characteristics very well across a variety of background circumstances. When and if I replace my HEKse with one of the latest TOTL headphones as discussed on this and similar threads, it's my intention that will be my one and only end-game headphone.

My system's SQ does change a bit with the quality of power supply - with a particularly noticeable improvement late at night - but I've taken that into account and am as sure of my findings as I reasonably can be. What's much harder is my preferred final test of any change: Go back to the original component after fully getting used to the new component over a long period - this is completely impractical because of the soldering.

 

[krude]

It would be foolish to be absolutely sure of any subjective test.
I do appreciate that it is easy to be fooled by all sorts of variables like power supply, system warm-up times, mood, expectation etc.

But I do my best to try to mitigate these things - I think it helps that I have a fairly constant main rig with just a single headphone that I have got to know over months and years. I get to know the sound characteristics very well across a variety of background circumstances. When and if I replace my HEKse with one of the latest TOTL headphones as discussed on this and similar threads, it's my intention that will be my one and only end-game headphone.

My system's SQ does change a bit with the quality of power supply - with a particularly noticeable improvement late at night - but I've taken that into account and am as sure of my findings as I reasonably can be. What's much harder is preferred final test of any change: Go back to the original component after fully getting used to the new component over a long period - this is completely impractical because of the soldering.

Hah I hear you, I also get considerably cleaner sound late at night. We're in the same boat of power. I found it makes comparison of components with smaller imact factor very difficult. Power conditioning is a very difficult and often very costly topic.

I own the Soloist GT, and its so power dependant it's unreal. It can sound harsh (even from a linear power conditioner) and unrefined or it can sound clean, crisp and pretty jaw dropping (late at night ) ...

 

[TheAttorney]

I own the Soloist GT, and its so power dependant it's unreal. It can sound harsh (even from a linear power conditioner) and unrefined or it can sound clean, crisp and pretty jaw dropping (late at night ) ...

I have a fairly high end Audience TSSOX power line conditioner, plus a couple of add-on conditioning widgets, plus carefully chosen power cords and it's still not enough to fully banish the day-time listening issues.

And closer back to topic, how over time does your Soloist GT compare to Ferum Oor and your other amps when driving your range of TOTL headphones?

I find DAVE's cross-feed a must-have option for giving a more realistic headphones sound stage, so ideally my end-game amp will also have this feature. And the GT is one of the few amps that has a CF option (and is therefore automatically more desirable, all else being equal), but it's not clear if it's a sophisticated CF with time delay, as in the SPL Phonitor, or just a simple blending of channels (which doesn't add depth to the sound stage).

 

[krude]

I have a fairly high end Audience TSSOX power line conditioner, plus a couple of add-on conditioning widgets, plus carefully chosen power cords and it's still not enough to fully banish the day-time listening issues.

And closer back to topic, how over time does your Soloist GT compare to Ferum Oor and your other amps when driving your range of TOTL headphones?

I find DAVE's cross-feed a must-have option for giving a more realistic headphones sound stage, so ideally my end-game amp will also have this feature. And the GT is one of the few amps that has a CF option (and is therefore automatically more desirable, all else being equal), but it's not clear if it's a sophisticated CF with time delay, as in the SPL Phonitor, or just a simple blending of channels (which doesn't add depth to the sound stage).

Yeah I think it's borderiline impossible to clean impure power short of investing megabucks into some sorts or regeneration, at which point you might as well redo your power installation if you are a home owner and get a direct line to each room with audio gear.

GT is an amazing amp, I only recently heard it at it's fullest when doing some late night listening, but ... during the day it can sound rubbish. I can very clearly hear the distortion creaping into the midrange and the treble as midrange and treble glare. Oor has none of that, I've never heard it sounding sub optimal. Also the GT has a fan which I find to be loud, but others barely notice it, so it's a personal tolerance thing. I think you can't go wrong with either ultimately, they are both excellent, but at the same time sound completely different. GT is airy, and a bit more spacious, Oor is darker but a lot more refined a lot of the time. Oor is more about the midrange, GT is more about the air. Two very different sound signatures / presentations, so it's a taste thing. You could easily own both and be ok with that. Cayin is very good, but you have to run it at almost full capacity for Susvara / TC, which is a bit uncofortable, but you can make it sound very good when you set the levels right.

As far as I'm aware crossfeed on the GT is more of a blend approach of some sorts. Don't think it's time based. My experience is it boosts up the bass a bit and makes the stage narrower.

 

[prismstorm]

Got the Ferrum OOR + HYPSOS stack and the chain is Macbook Pro > AudioQuest Cinnamon USB Cable > Bifrost 2 Unison USB > XLR Interconnect > Ferrum OOR (powered by HYPSOS) > XLR out to Susvara

Although the sound is very transparent and clean, bass is still not that strong, and even on high gain mode (+dB) the volume knob is cranked to 3 o'clock position and Susvara is still not having enough power or sounding full or loud enough. HYPSOS display indicates output power to be around 15-17W and output current at 0.6-0.8A. What gives? Is Susvara still being underpowered, I thought this combo is already one of the best for driving it?

 

[LarsMan]

Got the Ferrum OOR + HYPSOS stack and the chain is Macbook Pro > AudioQuest Cinnamon USB Cable > Bifrost 2 Unison USB > XLR Interconnect > Ferrum OOR (powered by HYPSOS) > XLR out to Susvara

Although the sound is very transparent and clean, bass is still not that strong, and even on high gain mode (+dB) the volume knob is cranked to 3 o'clock position and Susvara is still not having enough power or sounding full or loud enough. HYPSOS display indicates output power to be around 15-17W and output current at 0.6-0.8A. What gives? Is Susvara still being underpowered, I thought this combo is already one of the best for driving it?

It's never going to be a bass-heavy thing like the Abyss 1266, that's just not how it's tuned. Perhaps I'm misunderstanding what you're saying ,but the output setting for the Oor should be 24, so that would make a huge difference right there if you're showing it as 15-17. I've got the Hypsos/Oor going to the Susvara from an MSB Analog DAC, and it is big-time fat sounding and not lacking in volume at all. I hope you get it figured out, 'cause it really is great!

 

[prismstorm]

It's never going to be a bass-heavy thing like the Abyss 1266, that's just not how it's tuned. Perhaps I'm misunderstanding what you're saying ,but the output setting for the Oor should be 24, so that would make a huge difference right there if you're showing it as 15-17. I've got the Hypsos/Oor going to the Susvara from an MSB Analog DAC, and it is big-time fat sounding and not lacking in volume at all. I hope you get it figured out, 'cause it really is great!

Perhaps I should be more clear, if you look at the left side of the HYPSOS display, both the 'Nominal Output and 'Output Voltage' has been set to 24.0V (I set the HYPSOS configuration to Ferrum OOR). What I was referring to was that the 'Output Power' was 15.1W and the 'Output Current' was 0.6A as can be seen on the right side of my attachment. This setting mirrors the OP @tdx 's setting on his OOR + HYPSOS in his picture, so I'm pretty sure I'm running everything correctly and driving the Susvara with maximum power. However, it still sounds very tame and not loud enough, even with 15.1W of power driving it .....

 

[Roasty]

it feels like you're expecting the Susvara to be something it's not. rather than spend more money trying to fix it, you might want to cut your losses and look at other headphones. the Abyss and Solitaire P come to mind.

 

[LarsMan]

Perhaps I should be more clear, if you look at the left side of the HYPSOS display, both the 'Nominal Output and 'Output Voltage' has been set to 24.0V (I set the HYPSOS configuration to Ferrum OOR). What I was referring to was that the 'Output Power' was 15.1W and the 'Output Current' was 0.6A as can be seen on the right side of my attachment. This setting mirrors the OP @tdx 's setting on his OOR + HYPSOS in his picture, so I'm pretty sure I'm running everything correctly and driving the Susvara with maximum power. However, it still sounds very tame and not loud enough, even with 15.1W of power driving it .....

Gotcha - I thought I might have misunderstood, and I did. So that's set correctly; perhaps you could try out a different DAC from the Bifrost 2, on a trial basis to see if that makes any difference?

 

[krude]

Perhaps I should be more clear, if you look at the left side of the HYPSOS display, both the 'Nominal Output and 'Output Voltage' has been set to 24.0V (I set the HYPSOS configuration to Ferrum OOR). What I was referring to was that the 'Output Power' was 15.1W and the 'Output Current' was 0.6A as can be seen on the right side of my attachment. This setting mirrors the OP @tdx 's setting on his OOR + HYPSOS in his picture, so I'm pretty sure I'm running everything correctly and driving the Susvara with maximum power. However, it still sounds very tame and not loud enough, even with 15.1W of power driving it .....

I sound like a broken record but use 6-8db bass shelf, that will give you ample bass, try a silver cable to get the dynamics and extension going. Susvara has a flat bass, you expect Harman target bass curve. You do it through adding a bass shelf, thats it. Also are you using Bifrost2 in balanced? Is your digital output around 0 (as loud as possible)?

 

[chesebert]

Got the Ferrum OOR + HYPSOS stack and the chain is Macbook Pro > AudioQuest Cinnamon USB Cable > Bifrost 2 Unison USB > XLR Interconnect > Ferrum OOR (powered by HYPSOS) > XLR out to Susvara

Although the sound is very transparent and clean, bass is still not that strong, and even on high gain mode (+dB) the volume knob is cranked to 3 o'clock position and Susvara is still not having enough power or sounding full or loud enough. HYPSOS display indicates output power to be around 15-17W and output current at 0.6-0.8A. What gives? Is Susvara still being underpowered, I thought this combo is already one of the best for driving it?

Told you already the cans are current starved.

 

[krude]

Told you already the cans are current starved.

That's interesting, what would you recommend?

 

[chesebert]

That's interesting, what would you recommend?

What is the actual output? Did anyone measure the amp? 15w if real into a planar diaphragm will fry it if your ears are not already fried.

 

[krude]

What is the actual output? Did anyone measure the amp? 15w if real into a planar diaphragm will fry it if your ears are not already fried.

You refer to the Hypsos panel right? This is the PSU output into Oor, not Oor into cans. So hopefully no ones head exploded just yet