[tomhk]

My D-303 has fuzzy sound output issue (both line-out and headphone), but the optical is fine. I guess it's the capacity. I need help to open the board but I'm not sure if i need to remove this flat wire? how to loose the "SMK 4" connector? Thanks a lot.

 

[tomhk]

Found a way to flip the board without detach the flat cable.

My D-303 has fuzzy sound output issue (both line-out and headphone), but the optical is fine. I guess it's the capacity. I need help to open the board but I'm not sure if i need to remove this flat wire? how to loose the "SMK 4" connector? Thanks a lot.

 

[jointdekulas]

Yep, I never removed this connector either. You can change the capacitors without removing the cable. A bad output almost certainly is due to bad capacitors.

 

[JStew]

Hi, this is my first post, nice to meet everyone, I am looking for some help getting a discman d-350 working. I have almost exhausted my capabilities so I am hoping for some advice if possible. Everything seems to run fine (tracking focus, sled movement, motor will turn on if I put a voltage on it, laser goes on, voltages adjusted, some caps replaced, a lot of continuity and voltages checked, etc).

When I put a disc in (or push the sensor switch), the laser comes on and tries to focus but the motor does not spin at all. In service mode, it will not come on either (in play mode but will come on if you hit the pause button test). My questions are as follows:

1) I believe it should, but could someone confirm that the disc should spin up (on this model) for a few seconds when it tries to detect the disc? Even if there is no disc and you press the door switch?

2) Does anyone have any experience with the suspected Motorola driver MPC1715FU? When I load a disc, As per the service manual, I get the proper CLV (1.7V) voltage and other voltages to the chip but the 0.4V motor output does not read. I am sure there may be other things that need to happen but any advice on how to do a rudimentary test this device? Please note, if I up the CLV voltage, the motor will turn on. .

Any thoughts before I continue my search? Thank you so much.

 

[asquare3376]

Email this guy.. He can fix anything
Kaosuncd@gmail.com
FYI - He is based out of Texas so you have to ship in your device at your cost. Return shipping is free.

Regards,
Amit

 

[JStew]

Email this guy.. He can fix anything
Kaosuncd@gmail.com
FYI - He is based out of Texas so you have to ship in your device at your cost. Return shipping is free.

Regards,
Amit

Thank you Amit for responding. I am aware of Kaosun and I have posted on his forum as well. I am mainly interested in the challenge to get this working vs getting it professionally repaired. I expect I will sell for parts if I reach that point. I was just hoping there may be some knowledge out there to help me clear this roadblock. Thanks again.

 

[Yetiritter]

Hello to all D-303 and D-350 users!

I`m also still using a D-303 and also had the skipping problem when the player was in horizonal position. In this case the bearings of the original Mabuchi RF-410CH motor are worn. The problem is that the original motor in the meantime isn`t produced any longer. So I found a similar motor which is the type "Mabuchi RF-410CA". Only the shaft (2,6mm) is shorter but from technical side it`s one by one the same like the RF-410CH. So I ordered one piece from China for about 2,00$ and tried to use it instead of the RF-410CH. What shall I say? Although the shaft is shorter it fits perfectly and the skipping problems are gone! So my D-303 is perfectly working again!

Br. Yeti

 

[LilSilverBullet]

Hello to all D-303 and D-350 users!

I`m also still using a D-303 and also had the skipping problem when the player was in horizonal position. In this case the bearings of the original Mabuchi RF-410CH motor are worn. The problem is that the original motor in the meantime isn`t produced any longer. So I found a similar motor which is the type "Mabuchi RF-410CA". Only the shaft (2,6mm) is shorter but from technical side it`s one by one the same like the RF-410CH. So I ordered one piece from China for about 2,00$ and tried to use it instead of the RF-410CH. What shall I say? Although the shaft is shorter it fits perfectly and the skipping problems are gone! So my D-303 is perfectly working again!

Br. Yeti

Could you share the procedure or tip/trick to replace the old RF-410CH with RF-410CA? I read that the gap between the turntable and the top of motor is crucial and it should be measured before the motor disassembly from the turntable so when new motor is installed it can be set to the same gap distance. Do you need to use any kind of glue to secure the motor shaft to the turntable? It would be great is someone write up the procedure (with pictures). This is common issue with D-303 or D-35/350 and the only replacement motor we can find is RF-410CA.

 

[Yetiritter]

Could you share the procedure or tip/trick to replace the old RF-410CH with RF-410CA? I read that the gap between the turntable and the top of motor is crucial and it should be measured before the motor disassembly from the turntable so when new motor is installed it can be set to the same gap distance. Do you need to use any kind of glue to secure the motor shaft to the turntable? It would be great is someone write up the procedure (with pictures). This is common issue with D-303 or D-35/350 and the only replacement motor we can find is RF-410CA.

Hi,
thank you very much for your answer. I didn`t make any pictures but the repair steps are very easy. You don`t need any glue, the turntable fits strong enough although the motor shaft is shorter.

Before I removed the turntable I measured the distance and created with my 3D printer an adjustment tool which makes it easy to find the right gap again. I also provide this tool for free (ZIP file).

I will get another broken D-303 in a few days. There I also will make some pictures and post it here.

Sorry for the circumstances!

Br. Yeti

 

[btl214]

Hi,
thank you very much for your answer. I didn`t make any pictures but the repair steps are very easy. You don`t need any glue, the turntable fits strong enough although the motor shaft is shorter.

Before I removed the turntable I measured the distance and created with my 3D printer an adjustment tool which makes it easy to find the right gap again. I also provide this tool for free (ZIP file).



I will get another broken D-303 in a few days. There I also will make some pictures and post it here.

Sorry for the circumstances!

Br. Yeti

Hi Yeti, very basic question. How do you get the Spindle Disc out of the shaft? I was trying to figure it out but in vain.

 

[Yetiritter]

Hi Yeti, very basic question. How do you get the Spindle Disc out of the shaft? I was trying to figure it out but in vain.

Hi,

I took a screwdriver and carefully levered the turntable off the shaft.

Yeti

 

[faichiu]

Hi Yeti, very basic question. How do you get the Spindle Disc out of the shaft? I was trying to figure it out but in vain.

Use two flat head screw driver. One on left and one on the right and Slowly take it out.

 

[jsilas]

Quote:

I have a D-465 that I've had for a couple of years. A while ago, it began to skip a lot on all of the tracks, and it wasn't before. I opened it up over a year ago and fiddled with the trim pots, and now it doesn't read anything. It powers up, the display reads, but it never registers the disc, or even spins. What could the problem be? Is there any place I can send it (for a minimal fee) to have it realigned and recalibrated? Or am I just out of luck? -Dan

Yeah, I have a D-465. It had a similar problem. It skipped a Lot on tracks 1-2-3 especially. Turning on ESP made if Far worse. The problem was the main CD turning motor itself. The black metal ring with the black plastic central snap on assembly that holds the CD, this entire unit, wobbled on the motor. It was the motor bearing itself that was damaged. (This was proved later when the motor was removed - it squeaked when turned and sounded "dry". The motor’s shaft itself wobbled. I applied light machine oil with a syringe to the motor's central shaft, and that helped a little... but it was a lost cause. Needed a new motor.) This caused the CD to wobble as it spun, resulting in the Laser not being able to read the CD... and it skipped. Especially on the first few tracks when the CD is turning faster.

The main motor was dieing. I replaced it by buying a model that used the same motor on ebay, and swapping the motors. A very cheap fix. If I had not replaced the main motor, it would have eventually failed altogether. Perhaps the problem with your D-465 is the main motor too?!

At this page at Partstore.com it lists the parts for the D-465 Discman player. The main motor of the D-465 is used by 63 other discman units. Copy and paste the list, then check ebay for one of these 63 models. Chances are there is one up there right now. Buy it and then swap the motor out and into your dead D-465.
Better yet get a Discman from ebay that uses the exact same Optical Laser Pick up and Sled assembly too. Then replace the whole thing. 90% chance this will fix your D-465! And guess what? 59 discmans use the same sled assembly as the D-465. So it should be easy to find one on ebay.
Like a Sony D-E451... there are a few up on ebay right now in fact.

Don't throw out your D-465. It could be fixed in this way for as little as $15 - $25. Well, assuming you can use a small philips head screwdriver that is...

What I have just outlined here, this idea of buying a unit that uses the same entire optical sled/laser motor assembly, obviously can be applied to all other discman's. It's gotta be the #1 easy fix for at least 50% of Discman failures. Because half the time the broken part is going to be in the whole optical pick up motor head area...

I know this is very old, but wanted to pay homage where it's due. Thanks to your guidance, I recently successfully repaired my D-465. Been listening with nostalgia ever since, and loving every minute. Thank you!

 

[Yetiritter]

D-350 and D-303 Repair Update!

A few weeks ago I got a tip from a user that the Philips CDM 12.3 (BL) meachnism should have installed the same Mabuchi RF-410CH motor like in the D-350 and D-303. I followed up on this tip and therefore ordered one from China.

This is the complete Philips CDM 12.3BL mechanism (I´m sorry In the pictures I all the time wrote "CDM 13.3" but in reality it`s a "CDM 12.3"):

After I removed the motor, I compared it to a defectice of a D-303 and was very pleased that these motors are actually almost identical. The only differences I could find were that the motor was driven by the Philips mechanism via a foil cable and the lower lid looks a little different.

After I have unsoldered the wires from tho old - worn - RF-410CH and soldered it to the new one from the Philips mechanism, the motor can be installed 1:1 in a D-350 and D-303.

At the moment I only made a comparison physically and didn`t try it in a CD Player.

In the next days, when I have time, I install it into my D-303 and will test it - I will let you know the result!

Yeti

 

[Yetiritter]

So as promised on Wednesday here is the result including a repairing guide:

The motor fits perfectly and ist working great in the D-303 and should also fit into the D-350 (it has the same mechanics inside like the D-303).

Before you take your Discman apart pay attention to the following Information:
1) Any attempt at repair is at your own risk, I am not responsible for any damages that may occur during the repair process!
2) If possible, repair the Discman in an ESD safe environment to avoid damages from electrostatics
3) Stick the screws with an adhesive tape on a blank piece of paper and label the position so that it is easier for you to reassemble.
4) Before you unsolder any cable, take a photo of the mainboard to be on the safe side so that you can solder it back on correctly.
5) When you reassemble the Discman, make sure that no cables block the laser mechanism or are squeezed or destroyed by screws or covers!
6) Despite the template that I offer for free download here, the laser may have to be readjusted. This can only be done with an oscilloscope and a special test CD.

If the Discman skips after it has been repaired, finds tracks with difficulty or does not read the disc at all, the turntable is in many cases a bit too high. If the player plays the CD without skipping, but you hear a background noise then the disc tray is also set a little too high. If the CD player plays the discs well, but reacts extremely sensitively to the finest touches or vibrations, the disc tray is set too low. If you don't find the right position of the turntable you have to readjust the Laser.


Step 1: Removing the bottom cover - remove the screws as red marked in the pictures:

Step 2: Removing the screws from metal case and motor

Step 3: Removing the screws from mainboard:

Step 4: Unlocking the foil cables for the controls and optical pickup:

Attention: Be careful and don`t use a pincer! The cables are very thin and will raze very easy! I used a small tweezer!

Step 5: Desoldering of the motor and groudning cables:

Step 6: Opening up the mainboard and removing the foil cable of the laser pickup (be careful and don`t touch the cable with your hands! The laser is very sensible and can be damaged because of electrostatics):

Step 7: Removing the screws from laser mechanic (be careful that the springs under the screws won`t fall out):

Step 8: Removing of the unlocked pickup mechanic and turning the laser to the back so that there is place for removing the motor:

Step 9: Removing the metal case of the pickup mechanic - carefully lever up the three latches (be careful and don't damage the foil cable):

Step 10: Removing the motor (Push it in the direction how it`s shown in the picture below):

Step 11: Removing the turntable from the worn motor (I used a flat screwdriver and removed it carefully by levering up the turntable):

Step 12: Placing the adjustment tool on the new motor:

Step 13: Fixing turntable on the new motor:

Step 13: Putting parts together again, congratulation you repaired your D-303/D-350!


I wish you much luck for your repairs!

Yeti