[Blue Meanie]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tooch I thought also that mine was dependent on the speed, but it doesnt seem so. Also, it usually starts when you first select a song, but stops after maybe 20-30 seconds. It sometimes starts flickering later on as well.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help. I hate to see a fine person such as yourself having to put up with a semi-defective D-25. Personally, I think your best bet would be to sell me yours cheap, and find another D-25 that doesn't exhibit a problem such as this one...

Jeff

 

[tooch]

Haha it was hard enough to get this one, dont wanna let it go just yet

I've noticed now that it seems to dim/flicker when it's having trouble reading the disc. There are some discs that it wont read at all, wont spin. Sometimes turning it upside down helps this.

Might try adjusting the laser, if I can get up the courage to do it

 

[tooch]

Well after a whole lot of mucking around and tweaking (read=wildly turning the pots

) I managed to get it reading a lot better now! Reads the discs it didnt do before, also reads some CDR's! Doesnt seem to skip as much and the backlight doesnt flicker anymore! Lets just hope I dont have to do it again, took me 2 days of stuffing around to get it perfected!

 

[Jahn]

This thread saved my D-15, i found it in my folks place buried under some pac man stickers. i twirled the orange thingies inside and now it at least plays, if i dont tap it or shake it or look at it. i tried to fine tweak it, but the best i can do is have it play all the way thru a cd if i just dont touch it - which is fine, because the sound is even better than my ipod.

the problem is the line out is very fussy - if i tap it this way or that, the entire left signal poots out. i have to twist/jiggle it just right and not breathe for 72 minutes and i get stereo. is there a way to fix this jack? if not the headphone jack is fine - but i'd rather use the line out, since i have a cmoy. btw the interconnect is not the problem - it works fine on my ipod. thanks!

Edit - i opened up the jack - i see three copper bars - i am assuming one of them controls the left signal. what can i do with it to make it connect?

 

[tooch]

Remove the old solder with some de-soldering wick, and then re-solder it to give it a nice clean connection!

BTW, if anyone is interested, i have an interest check on my D-25 in the Source Components section.

 

[Jahn]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tooch Remove the old solder with some de-soldering wick, and then re-solder it to give it a nice clean connection! BTW, if anyone is interested, i have an interest check on my D-25 in the Source Components section.

ack you just said the magic words that i can't do - SOLDER. you mean the jack isnt the prob - it's the connection with the PCB? i wish someone near me was handy with soldering, rats!

 

[tooch]

Hmm yeah unfortunately that's usually the problem when headphone outs and line outs go flaky, usually a dry solder joint!

 

[rider]

Hi, I have a Sony D211 and it's not working. It powers up ok and the disc spins but it cannot read the disc. I have had a look inside and the plastic ribbon that connects the circuit board to the lens assembly has broken off partly. The cost of repairing is around US $65 as according to the service personnel the entire lens assembly has to be changed. Is that true ? and is it worth it to repair this player? Has anyone here alternative suggestions for repair?
Thks

 

[Sazabi2001]

It seems here just only for SONY？？

I used to have 2 D-Z555s , the European-Type of D555 ; an a D250silver ---also the European-Type D25 . but I just sold them last year~

And now i have a Technics-SL-XPS900 (Japanese & American type may call Panasonic SL-XPS900~) . i fine it great that almost batter than D250/D25 , and better than D-Z555/D555 in some way( bass , I think~) .

I also got a JVC XL-P90 (Japanse & American type may call Victor-XL-P9) but dead~~ and now I must find the Laser-Unit call SANYO-SF89.5 to repair it~~Sadly I can't find it anywhere~~

As I search the internet , I found that Japanese may like Philips's CD-player more than others~~Just like Philips-AZ-6819/6829/6808 and Apple-philips-PowerCD. But it seems difficult to find them in anywhere~

 

[fureshi]

I purchased a D303 from a guy in germany who said that the pcdp played perfectly but after i got it, i realized that both the headphone and line out were quite staticky. moving the pot around didn't make a difference and after spraying it with some contact cleaner, it didn't get any better. sometimes it would play find but most of the time, the volume was inconsistent with lots of static.

after reading the previous posts from 555, i'm beginning to think that its caps have dried out or gone bad. does this sound like a problem with the caps to you guys, who have replaced bad caps? it looks like there are a total of 7 thru-hole radial caps that i'll probably have to replace. i don't know if any of the smd caps have gone bad but there's so many of them that i don't even know where to start diagnosing them. if anyone has the schematics for this board, it'd be helpful. thanks for the help!

 

[MdRex]

was hoping if someone could help me out with the possible problem... it completely failed to work.

 

[ricsam]

Hello,

My D-555 hasn't been used for a very long time. When the headphone jack is plugged in the right speaker is much louder than the left. When backing out the jack 1 click the left speaker is louder than the right. Backing out slightly more and the volume is so much louder with the left speaker. Almost normal but the right speaker is still lower in volume. I've read through some of the previous posts. Is this also a surface mount soldering repair, new headphone jack or possibly a contact cleaner fix?

Thanks,
Rick

 

[D555]

I think it might be the "bad coupling capacitor" problem. All of the surface mount aluminum electrolytic capacitors were bad, some were actually leaking electrolyte.

 

[ricsam]

Thanks for the responce. Excellent job on the repair of your sony. I'll try and get a schematic for the d-555 if possible. This way I can identify the location of C211 and C111. Hopefully they are close to the headphone jack area. If I can get a hold of the audio upgrade SMD caps I will. Any type of improvement is a plus. I'm not sure if I need to replace the power supply SMD but I may.

Rick

 

[Stephonovich]

Sorry all; realized it'd do better here. Don't want to be cross posting, so I erased this one and linked.