Quote:
Originally Posted by Drosera /img/forum/go_quote.gif
To have some impressions of what it would look like, I found this here.
Whatever the benefits, it certainly isn't pretty.
|
I just got through looking at that mess...
Clearly you don't want to put this stuff anywhere near the pcbs or chips etc (heat build up is a bad idea for anything solid state)...the one exception to that being the clock can. He went way way overboard with the rope caulk.
The aluminum plate on the bottom is a great idea as is the home made platform and roller bearing footers.
I'll post a quick pic of the HK and the brass rollers I use for the Vanguard CDM12 Pro...looks way better than this guys mess (on the inside and outside)
The HK has a dedicated power supply for the Tentlabs TX02 board you see on mounted on the ceramic tile base. I used a set of soft rubber standoffs to further isolate the clock board from the chassis while the PSREG board for it is also mounted on the ceramic tile that is affixed under the transports mechanism proper. Every single diode,electrolytic cap and some resistors were swapped for Nichicon PW/Muse/HE/or VK and Elna Cerafine. Some Panasonic FM used in the lPSU section but for the most part this board used 95% Nichicon caps. Some PIO bypass caps are installed on the discrete output coupling caps (when used as a CDP instead of the digital out this section benefits greatly from the PIO bypass caps in this spot). Of course all the large electrolytic caps are also bypassed with PIO's including the PSREG board caps.
The diodes are all Fairchild UF4007, what else..oh yeah CMC jacks and silver plated copper OFC hookup wire. The biggest improvement came with the Tentlabs clock and separate PSU then the main PSU rebuild and finally the additional damping refined everything. I use 3 brass cones for feet and set the whole thing on a Bright Star IsoRock 4 platform (constrained layer device, look it up Bright Star Audio). The results are way better than stock, much much better resolution, stage depth, detailing etc..sounds far less digital that's for sure. The next possible step is to go with a Digital out reclocking board (Tentlabs TX03) but I don't think I'll bother.
The reason why I bothered going to all this trouble with this particular cdp is because it use a discrete analog output stage and the DAC chip is a pretty good Burr Brown unit the PCM1710U. I guess a good tweak would be to swap all the ceramic caps for silver mica........among other possible changes...maybe a better transformer (toroidal type, 30VA or so) Maybe
Brass Mi-Rollers
Peete.
PS : I need to take pics of the Ah Njoe Tjoeb 4000 which has far more extensive damping added to it along with big and small tiles to the top chassis cover. It's quite heavy compared to the HK CDP although the addition of the parts in the pic did add around 4 lbs plus 1.5 lbs of the caulk and 2 tiles. The chassis lid underside has quite a bit of rope caulk as well (not shown in the pic)
