The Audeze LCD-2 Ortho thread (New)
Jan 23, 2013 at 7:46 AM Post #3,902 of 7,138
HA-160 is not a valid choice.  It clips hard at 100mW into an LCD.  The Soloist however is much better, though still only 500mW.  The Mjolnir is also awesome but very different.  Much higher power, much more energy.  Basically the Soloist is a passive listen, the Mjolnir very active.  Too active for me, but others love it.
 
Jan 23, 2013 at 9:47 AM Post #3,903 of 7,138
Quote:
HA-160 is not a valid choice.  It clips hard at 100mW into an LCD.  The Soloist however is much better, though still only 500mW.  The Mjolnir is also awesome but very different.  Much higher power, much more energy.  Basically the Soloist is a passive listen, the Mjolnir very active.  Too active for me, but others love it.

 
I'm wondering how you "calculate" the mW you stated.
 
Jan 23, 2013 at 10:39 AM Post #3,905 of 7,138
Do you have a link for that ?
 
Because I really doubt that the HA-160 can only deliver 100mW into the LCD and 500mW for the Soloist :).
 
Jan 23, 2013 at 11:12 AM Post #3,906 of 7,138
Was being generous, it's actually closer to 80mW :p
 
http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/121105_blog_update_FirstAmpTests.pdf
 
The 500mW is from Burson's listed specs.
 
Jan 23, 2013 at 11:58 AM Post #3,908 of 7,138
The Output Vrms graph.  Solid state clips hard, so that quick turn to vertical is the max usable power.  Unless you like the sound of massive distortion :wink:
 
Jan 23, 2013 at 12:21 PM Post #3,909 of 7,138
Quote:
Was being generous, it's actually closer to 80mW :p
 
http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/121105_blog_update_FirstAmpTests.pdf
 
The 500mW is from Burson's listed specs.

 
Ok thanks !
Actually, Burson stated 250mW for the HA-160 for 1% THD (and 6moons claims that the HA-160 can deliver 800mW@60ohms max which seems quite correct).
And for the Soloist, it's 4W@16ohms (I suppose it's the max output power) so into 60ohms it's a bit more than 1 watts. 500mW for <0.03%THD which is not even noticeable.
 
To be drive at 90dB, the LCD2 needs 0.87mW (0.225 Vrms) and to have plenty of dynamic, let's say that the amp needs to drive the LCD2 at 110dB (I think it's even overpowered for a song), here you need a bit less than 90mW (2.26 Vrms). So the HA-160 can drive the LCD2 quite safely.
 
Jan 23, 2013 at 12:32 PM Post #3,910 of 7,138
Look at my sig and profile.  I like Burson.  But their power specs are deceiving.
 
If we look at the 4W spec, distortion isn't listed.  But it is for this...
 
THD: <0.03% at 30ohm with 1W ouput
 
So simple math later... 500mW into 60ohm
 
For the HA-160 they list two power rating but no load.  Given how it measured for Tyll it's likely this...
 
THD: 0.06% at 100mW
 
Is likely at 30ohm also.
 
Jan 23, 2013 at 1:05 PM Post #3,911 of 7,138
I'm not saying that you don't like Burson (actually I know you do and I like the review you did over the threads you posted ! Actually I think we have similar taste :p) but saying that the HA-160D can't drive the LCD2 is incorrect. :)
For a 1% THD, your sound is attenuated by 40dB. So for a sound of 90dB, the harmonics distorsion will be around 50dB which is not really noticeable while you listen to your song. (correct me if I'm wrong).
 
Jan 23, 2013 at 3:03 PM Post #3,912 of 7,138
80mW is louder than I listen to for sure.  But 1% odd order distortion is very hard on the ear.  It's that feeling you get that wants you to turn it down :wink:
 
Jan 23, 2013 at 3:04 PM Post #3,913 of 7,138
I was about to sell my LCD-2 Rev 1 and then my new dac arrived. I completely love it again now with the V200!
Sorry for interrupting
rolleyes.gif

 
Jan 23, 2013 at 4:19 PM Post #3,914 of 7,138
Quote:
Agreed, about time some people have agreed that the LCD2's (both rev's) can sound muffled, congested, shelved, too dark and laid back with certain music and gear.
 
2c.

If all of the above is at the same time then I'd see a Otolaryngologist immediately. Either that or upgrade from your Sansa clip :D
 
Jan 23, 2013 at 4:21 PM Post #3,915 of 7,138
And the wood has just cracked on my latest revision rosewood LCD-2s 
frown.gif
  Right through the section that limits how much the cup can tilt.
 
I noticed it when the right cup wasn't rotating smoothly when I went to put them back on (after having already used them for a few hours today, and I think I would have noticed the resistance earlier today so it probably just happened).
 
First wood cracking with the new design?
 

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