[KerryKing]

Im getting quite alot of the DC-offset :/ aprox 0.5V i think...
I will take off the Caps and measure to make sure. Hope i get time tomorrow

 

[BrinNutz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yeah, sorry about that lack of clarity. That one photo was actually done by the iPodlinux guys, and vvs_75 showed the ones from which we obtain the signal. KerryKing has a website featuring some of his DIY work, so check it out at Erik's and Sven's DIY page under "Erik's Gallery." It seems to be identical to the 4G click wheel, but I'll post it in the OP for future reference. Thanks for pointing that out.

Thanks!!

But I'm not too clear on where to solder the wires to the small piece there. What connections do I use? The pic isn't very clear, at least for the black wire.



Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif It wasn't that hard. Just use the Search function and put in "KoKoKrunch" for the username and "iMod" in the search terms. How much offset are you getting, Kerry? There are only 4 solder points you really need to make (take signal, to cap, out of cap, dock connector), so if it's in the tenth-of-a-millivolt range, it could just be the DMM. Your pictures seem to show pretty solid connections, so it could just be that. Try it with different caps to see if the problem is the onboard solder joints. Sometimes those pads can be difficult to work with, so see if you can find any equivalent pads to which you can solder your wires.

I'm confused now, so is the mod posted for the 4G Photo for the LOD or for the headphone jack.

I'm trying to find some Black Gates right now do to the mod there, but having trouble finding them. Are these it?
http://www.musicaldesign.com/images/47_6R3HIQ.jpg

BlackGate NX-HIQ 47uF/6.3V radial 6.3mm x 7mm x 2mm $3.95

I'm not to clear on if this mod is using the headphone jack or the LOD either...




I guess I am really just confused as to what the differences is between the 4th Gen click wheel and the 4G photo. It seems like there are 2 different soldering places on the board, no? I want to use the headphone out jack because I have a Zune also, so that would minimize having to buy another cable.

 

[BrinNutz]

Ok, I have takin pics of my PCD in my 4G Ipod Photo.

I am awaiting to find a good deal on a MK6006GAH to replace the dead MK3006GAL that was originally in it, so I thought about doing this mod.

I need to get : Solder (really thin right?), a soldering gun (with a really fine tip correct?), some good 30AWG wire (right?)??

I am also thinking of doing the capacitor mod with these :
http://www.musicaldesign.com/images/47_6R3HIQ.jpg

BlackGate NX-HIQ 47uF/6.3V radial 6.3mm x 7mm x 2mm $3.95

But, I am going sum up my posts, for the most part.

I am unclear of where to solder/desolder original parts, to use the headphone out jack with the capacitor mod (if possible).

Here is a pic of the two places that I see people soldering (pic is of my Ipod Photo 4G.

Now, do I use the one on the right or the left in that pic? and if it's on the right, which is R and which is L?

Thanks!!!

 

[wgr73]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrinNutz /img/forum/go_quote.gif Ok, I have takin pics of my PCD in my 4G Ipod Photo. 1. I need to get : Solder (really thin right?), 2. a soldering gun (with a really fine tip correct?) 3. some good 30AWG wire (right?)?? I am also thinking of doing the capacitor mod with these : http://www.musicaldesign.com/images/47_6R3HIQ.jpg BlackGate NX-HIQ 47uF/6.3V radial 6.3mm x 7mm x 2mm $3.95

1. Thin solder could help, it just depends on how careful you are. If your really good with soldering you could use thicker solder...if not use thin solder.

2.I would get a soldering iron, it will be much easier to work with instead of a gun.

3. 30AWG is probably your best bet. Though other modders have gotten away with 28AWG i think. Its up to you...just make sure its small enough to maneuver.

 

[ruZZ.il]

I'm wondering if anyone has a spare set of the BG NX 6.3V 47uF that they could part with, for price or price+a buck or 2, plus shipping, of course. Much appreciated. Thanks.

 

[joneeboi]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrinNutz /img/forum/go_quote.gif I need to get : Solder (really thin right?), a soldering gun (with a really fine tip correct?), some good 30AWG wire (right?)??

i) You don't necessarily need thin solder, but it is easier to work with.

ii) The finer the tip on your soldering gun, the better for this project. But if you're planning on using it for further DIY, don't get the finest tip as it won't be as versatile. Get a good temp-controlled soldering gun from Weller so you can have multiple tips for different soldering occasions.

iii) Anything finer than 26 AWG has worked so far.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrinNutz /img/forum/go_quote.gif I am also thinking of doing the capacitor mod with these : http://www.musicaldesign.com/images/47_6R3HIQ.jpg BlackGate NX-HIQ 47uF/6.3V radial 6.3mm x 7mm x 2mm $3.95

Those are kind of pricey, though for a pair it won't hurt too much. Check 9.4.0 at post #1 for alternative vendors.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrinNutz /img/forum/go_quote.gif I am unclear of where to solder/desolder original parts, to use the headphone out jack with the capacitor mod (if possible). Here is a pic of the two places that I see people soldering (pic is of my Ipod Photo 4G. Now, do I use the one on the right or the left in that pic? and if it's on the right, which is R and which is L?

In your image, the left rectangle is where you get the signal from. Desolder those resistors and test if the signal is working before you close up shop. The leftmost resistor is the right channel and the rightmost is the left channel. In the 4G click wheel non-photo, you have to desolder caps to get the signal, and they're placed right where the caps are in your image. But since we're dealing with the iPod photo, you take the signal from the resistors. Consult the following image,

If you're hoping to send the signal to the headphone jack, it shouldn't matter what is going on at the bottom connectors. But if you're still curious, the signal is sent to the pads labeled L2 and L3, with L2 being right and L3 being the left channel.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ruZZ.il /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm wondering if anyone has a spare set of the BG NX 6.3V 47uF that they could part with, for price or price+a buck or 2, plus shipping, of course. Much appreciated. Thanks.

YGPM.

 

[BrinNutz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif i) You don't necessarily need thin solder, but it is easier to work with. ii) The finer the tip on your soldering gun, the better for this project. But if you're planning on using it for further DIY, don't get the finest tip as it won't be as versatile. Get a good temp-controlled soldering gun from Weller so you can have multiple tips for different soldering occasions. iii) Anything finer than 26 AWG has worked so far.

Ok, I'll look...need cheap stuff..What type of wire is best, silver, copper? Does it matter?


Quote:

Those are kind of pricey, though for a pair it won't hurt too much. Check 9.4.0 at post #1 for alternative vendors.

I bought them already

Oh well..I bought 6 in case anyone needed them...or if I mod anymore iPods. =)


Quote:

In your image, the left rectangle is where you get the signal from. Desolder those resistors and test if the signal is working before you close up shop. The leftmost resistor is the right channel and the rightmost is the left channel. In the 4G click wheel non-photo, you have to desolder caps to get the signal, and they're placed right where the caps are in your image. But since we're dealing with the iPod photo, you take the signal from the resistors. Consult the following image,

Ok, so in my image, the leftmost rectangle is where I should desolder the resistors, then does it matter what side I solder my wire to? There would be 2 points per resistor where I could re-solder back on, correct?


Now, looking @ KoKoKrunch's pic here :

He soldered the capacitors in different spots.

But, as I understand it, I don't need to use those two spots since I have a Photo 4G, I use the one in the left rectangle of my pic to solder the capacitors to. Then, I solder wire to the capacitors, then solder again to capacitors again and then to L2 and L3 spots.
This will then allow me to have audio out of headphone jack with clarity.

Is that correct?

Or does this mod I said above give me the sound out of the LOD? I'm confused again.

Thanks alot btw for the help!

Quote:

If you're hoping to send the signal to the headphone jack, it shouldn't matter what is going on at the bottom connectors. But if you're still curious, the signal is sent to the pads labeled L2 and L3, with L2 being right and L3 being the left channel.

 

[joneeboi]

I believe gold is the best conductor, but it's restrictively expensive. At these small lengths, it won't make that much of a difference.

As for which side of the desoldered resistor pads you need, I couldn't tell you. The only sure way to find out is to check with your DMM if there is 0 ohms between the resistor pad and the leg of the WM8975.

If you want the signal in the headphone jack, solder the wire to the headphone jack. If you want the signal in both the dock and the headphone jack, send two sets of wires out of the cap: one to the L2 and L3 spots, one to the headphone jack.

 

[BrinNutz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif I believe gold is the best conductor, but it's restrictively expensive. At these small lengths, it won't make that much of a difference. As for which side of the desoldered resistor pads you need, I couldn't tell you. The only sure way to find out is to check with your DMM if there is 0 ohms between the resistor pad and the leg of the WM8975. If you want the signal in the headphone jack, solder the wire to the headphone jack. If you want the signal in both the dock and the headphone jack, send two sets of wires out of the cap: one to the L2 and L3 spots, one to the headphone jack.

Ok, so to test them, is there a "specific" leg on the WM8975 I need to use? And what setting on my DMM should I use?

Where do I solder to the headphone jack? I'm a little lost as to which points to solder onto there are 2 points.

R9 and R10. I believe those might be it, but don't know which would be L or R..

 

[joneeboi]

Check the datasheet on the Wolfson WM8971.

 

[BrinNutz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif Check the datasheet on the Wolfson WM8971.

K...Thanks!

Hopefully I get this right....

Now for another one. I can run the wires to the LOD and the headphone jack coming off of the capacitors, correct?

As in:

Wolfson>BG capacitor> wires to dock and wires to headphone jack.

That's how I think it may work best...Am I correct?


I read the datasheet and found pin 4 and 19 are the digital and analogue grounds, respectively.

Now, before de-soldering the L and R connections near the chip, I put my DMM on either side of each resistor (I think that's what those are), and I get a reading (using the 200K setting on the DMM), and was getting reading's of 1,000-1,200 on either side of each. I'm thinking this may be because of them still connected that the readings aren't changing. But I don't know.

When I do take them off (tomorrow) and I get a reading of 0 on one of them, that would mean it's the GND correct?

 

[joneeboi]

What you're looking for is continuity between the analogue out pins of the Wolfson and the resistors, R900 and R903. From the closeup image from ipodlinux, you probably want the south end of those resistor spots. And sending the signal to the headphone jack and the line out is a viable solution. It may not be the best necessarily, but as long as it serves your needs as closely as possible, it is the best solution.

 

[BrinNutz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif What you're looking for is continuity between the analogue out pins of the Wolfson and the resistors, R900 and R903. From the closeup image from ipodlinux, you probably want the south end of those resistor spots. And sending the signal to the headphone jack and the line out is a viable solution. It may not be the best necessarily, but as long as it serves your needs as closely as possible, it is the best solution.

Thank you!!!

I will be working on this tonight..at least the desoldering of the resistors..I'll post pics!

Waiting on the BG caps and needing to get some 30AWG wire....

 

[cfcubed]

Not to offend anyone, and this is just IMHO of course, but a DIYmod probably does not make a good first project of this sort. I'd expect one to be quite handy w/a soldering iron & have at least a couple builds of some kind under their belt before attempting this. At least maybe practice on a junker PCB w/SMD parts... Combing through this thread & that of similarly intricate projects shows what can go (horribly?) wrong.

Again, just an opinion & sure if one has a sacrificial ipod, or one already having issues, and wants a challenge/adventure - whatever. But if someone wants a DIYmod, has the resources but doesn't want the risk assoc w/doing one, there may be builders around willing to assist directly w/the work (other than myself at the moment

 

[KoKoKrunch]

I've actually replaced those copper wires in my photo with Silver/Gold alloys, I tore out one of the solder pads(L3) when I snapped it back because of the tight dimensions. Luckily those small circular unused pads with no apparent use on the iPod were there to save my life.

I can't wait to test it out again and see if there's any difference, I've accepted that my setup sucks, so there's no point testing them myself. But, I've actually heard a tiny difference(sounds richer) between headphone out and LOD with my BOSE speakers.