[powertoold]

I will try to do what you did Jon

 

[joneeboi]

I must warn you that the diyMod does not close as uniformly as originally with those wires flying everywhere. When you try the diyMod 5G, avoid the straight-to-dock method as best you can. My diyMod would benefit greatly from a new front plate.

 

[iQEM]

Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif I thought about it, but it actually goes in line with the ideology of the diyMod: simplify the signal path between the DAC and the amplifier. Granted, you'd have to change the thread's title, but with this whole new title-of-the-thread-creates-the-link business, changing the title will destroy every link in the world wide web. Besides, it would bring Apple and Microsoft DAP users closer than ever because they would share in the same legacy. I think Zune owners deserve to have a proper line out, don't you? I haven't heard from the Zune 2Gs, but I know that the first ones had a volume controlled, who-knows-what's-in-the-signal-path line out. It would be pretty cool if we could help those Zune owners out. *cough wgr73 cough*

oh i c, then let's continue...shall we ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by CAvanessia /img/forum/go_quote.gif Here is my super temporary Sonicap setup until they are fully burned in (200 hours I guess). I have two 4.7uf GenI with 0.1uf GenII caps in parallel. From initial impressions, it *seems* that the bass hits slightly harder and deeper than the BGs that have around 50 hours of burn-in. Also it seems more spatious. I don't know if I should roll caps since these sound good enough. I really want to try some Obbligatos since they are fairly affordable and according to one or two reviews to be better than the Sonicaps. We'll see after a few days

nice one Christine...so you use 2 pair of caps, right ?

 

[powertoold]

Wow, I just tried to do the direct thing with my Nano ... don't do it lol

It is probably the most difficult single thing I've done ever. I didn't have any hot glue (can't really use it because of space), so it was very hopeless to have the wires slip again and again. I also burnt out the pad for the right channel and had to solder it on the top.

I don't even know if I succeeded because when I close the Nano, everything may have gotten stressed and broken again. LOL I am never going to open the Nano up again, Wow.

Soldering directly to the DAC was easy... the dock... oMG it is so damn hopelessly frustrating haha.

 

[iQEM]

powertoold, have you use a lil' gauge wire ? i had the same condition as yours before BUT now after i switch to other lil wires it doing just fine, even my lcd came back to normal...

now i still stuck with the clickwheel & other button cause of the ribbon cable...

 

[joneeboi]

What you could also do is just tape the wires down. It isn't as firm as hot glue, but it's still better than nothing while still ensuring a good, tight fit. Nevertheless, ruZZ.il pulled off the hot glue technique, so it isn't necessarily impossible. With some clever sleight of hand, I'm sure you can figure something out.

I think we're all familiar with the feeling of despair you were expressing. Just take a few days off to regain your composure, and tackle it again. I had procrastinated that diyMod 5G for almost a whole month before going at it again and finally figuring it out; even then, I had to work 3 straight hours just to get those two solder joints done. Give yourself that break you know you deserve for doing such ingenious black magic on your iPod nano (which is always fun bragging to your friends about) and wring out that stress. Get your spirit back, and I'm sure everything will go well for you when you reattempt it.

 

[pcyl]

So what the outcome to use 47UF or 4.7 uf for dock?

 

[cfcubed]

Quote:

Originally Posted by powertoold /img/forum/go_quote.gif Wow, I just tried to do the direct thing with my Nano ... don't do it lol

Yeah, I *was* going to keep mum till I do my 40GB 3G but since I'm waiting on that mini battery..... Using thin gauge wire and wire-wrap wire as a last resort.

Forgive me if this has been discussed, but other than the challenge of it, I don't really understand doing this mod to any iPod < 10GB. Seems moving to a lossless format is commensurate with this upgrade & once you do that you need the space. Sure this mod can't help but boost lossy format quality but I'd expect to notice (more of) a difference between lossless & lossy formats on ipods w/this mod.

Guess I'd consider selling an ipod < 10GB (instead of risk damaging it) & buying a 3rd or 4th gen for $100 for an easier time of it. Easy for me to say as I got my 3rd gen free due to its dead battery & it's owner got an iPod Touch for Xmas

P.S. Looks like modders might want to use thinner wire than they have on hand... As I have a 50ft spool of 30awg wire-wrap wire (*looks* like silver coated solid copper core w/very thin Teflon insul), I could part w/a couple dozen 1ft strips... ConUSers could PM me w/their address & I'd send you 1ft & even cover the stamp

 

[KerryKing]

diyMod is done

But now i have to get a dock to see if it works

I have some pics that i will upload to my site in the sig during the night

Anyays it boots and hp out still works

Thx for all pics and help

 

[joneeboi]

Glad we could help, Kerry. I'd love to see some of those pictures.

cfcubed:

Good call on the wire wrap wires. navships has 36AWG SPC (OD of 0.44mm), but 36AWG strippers are hard to come by. The cheapest I saw online was $45. Hm...

 

[cfcubed]

Quote:

Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif Good call on the wire wrap wires. navships has 36AWG SPC (OD of 0.44mm), but 36AWG strippers are hard to come by. The cheapest I saw online was $45. Hm...

I think the smallest you'd want to go is 30awg... It's also the smallest hole in my strippers. I've used it before to fix/bridge lifted PCB traces

Red spool below:

This stuff is like 30 years old or so (from my father - fixed tube-type TVs then tinkered in solid-state). Looks new & takes solder well, etc.

 

[CAvanessia]

I also used wire wrap. It is from Radioshack and *looks* silver coated.

 

[powertoold]

Hey guys, I have a question.

If I removed those Z Z caps, and the inductors near the Line Out, would I be able to get a normal Line Out signal anymore without doing the diyMod?

I am just trying to figure out a method of making sure I am getting the direct signal from the DAC instead of the normal Line Out.

 

[joneeboi]

Quote:

Originally Posted by powertoold /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hey guys, I have a question. If I removed those Z Z caps, and the inductors near the Line Out, would I be able to get a normal Line Out signal anymore without doing the diyMod? I am just trying to figure out a method of making sure I am getting the direct signal from the DAC instead of the normal Line Out.

Those objectives don't really lend themselves to the other. If you don't want to do the diyMod, how are you going to get the signal from the DAC? If you cut the caps and inductors, you don't have a regular line out. If you cut them and don't diyMod them, you don't have the signal from the DAC. To "mak[e] sure [you are] getting the direct signal from the DAC instead of the normal Line Out," you are pretty much doing the diyMod or paying for an iMod/GMod.

 

[powertoold]

Sorry for being vague Jon, I just wanted to make sure my direct DAC solder was good and making contact. I just tried to use the Line Out to my Sonicap dock, and I heard both channels fine, but I wasn't sure if I was hearing the normal Line Out or my actual direct connection from the DAC.