The Apple diyMod: My Take on the Famous iMod [56k killer] Featuring 3G, 4G, 5G and nano 1G!
Apr 26, 2011 at 9:36 AM Post #2,431 of 3,220
Apr 28, 2011 at 10:03 AM Post #2,433 of 3,220
I was looking for the best wire to mod my iPod but I failed to find any comprehensive guide on what to use (only some scattered info here and there) - hence my question:

What is the best wire to mod an iPod (5.5g)?:
- optimum gauge (that'll fit under 5,5g front panel)? as gauge has an impact on electron transmission(?),
- metal: silver, copper, any other?,
- single- or multi-core?
- type of insulation?,
- any specific manufacturer?,
- where to buy? (preferably inside the European Union, but only preferably),

Vinnie from RWA said: "We use Cardas' patented Golden Section Litz Wire. It is copper, and only sold in OEM applications (on a large spool) to manufacturers, not to the DIY community." and indeed it seems to be imposible to find online.

Thank you for all the help,
Paulus
 
Apr 28, 2011 at 10:45 AM Post #2,434 of 3,220
Gauge : Exactly correct.  Anywhere between 26-32 should fit unless insulation is very thick.
Metal : Your choice.
Solid-core, easier to work with.
Insulation : Thin and preferably very flexible, Teflon jumps to mind.
Manufacturer : Your choice.
Where to buy : Your choice, eBay is an option.
 
Note : Percy Audio sells Cardas solid-core single strand wire in 100' spools for VERY reasonable price.  I love that stuff for interconnects, just add Teflon tubing (yes, you'll sleeve it yourself) and you have awesome wire for cheap.
 
Quote:
I was looking for the best wire to mod my iPod but I failed to find any comprehensive guide on what to use (only some scattered info here and there) - hence my question:

What is the best wire to mod an iPod (5.5g)?:
- optimum gauge (that'll fit under 5,5g front panel)? as gauge has an impact on electron transmission(?),
- metal: silver, copper, any other?,
- single- or multi-core?
- type of insulation?,
- any specific manufacturer?,
- where to buy? (preferably inside the European Union, but only preferably),

Vinnie from RWA said: "We use Cardas' patented Golden Section Litz Wire. It is copper, and only sold in OEM applications (on a large spool) to manufacturers, not to the DIY community." and indeed it seems to be imposible to find online.

Thank you for all the help,
Paulus



 
 
May 5, 2011 at 6:31 PM Post #2,435 of 3,220
Is capped LOD really necessary if your amp already has capps for each channel?  The DC offset I understand will damage ear speakers if it reaches a critical level with additive affects from the swing of the current.  That may physically orient the head spreaker to a extreme position as to blow it.  If the LOD is not capped, and the offset goes into the amp connected.  Decoupling capcitor will filter it out and amp the audio signal minus DC, and the output cap will rid the whole situp of outputting offset to the headphones.
 
May 16, 2011 at 9:31 PM Post #2,436 of 3,220

 
Quote:
I'm finally screwing up sufficient courage to attempt the mod.  I've got a 5g 30gb (already replaced with 32gb CF card), and I'd like to try and fit the caps internally.  I've got the silmic IIs that look like they should fit.
 
My question, just to make sure:  How should I connect the caps and wires?  Is this right?  South pad of Z caps -> + leg of caps, - legs of caps to  south pads of L2/L3.
 
fishline


Just want to report that I've finally got it done.  I've gotten the wiring with internal caps a couple of months back.  However, when I used the diymod, from fully charged to battery indicator showing red took only around 45 minutes.  Besides, I did not have a LOD to test.  Now I've built a basic LOD (no caps, since those are already in the diymod), and I've found a short: when I solder the wire to the south pad of the right z cap, I had wire exposed a bit too long, and it seemed to touch the tiny soldering point right next to it.  Fixed that problem, and the battery life is back to what it should be (which is really good, because of the 32gb CF in place of the 30gb hdd).
 
So far, I've tried hooking it up to my Starving Student and AKG K701, and it sounds sweet!
 
 I gave my son an identical ipod 5g (also with the 32gb CF mod), so I will be able to compare them to see if I hear any difference.  Will report back soon...
 
 
May 23, 2011 at 3:57 PM Post #2,439 of 3,220
i recommend using the 2 pads down and slightly right from the bottom cap and inductor, tiny little pads that are there as test points for the output for service people i guess. there is complete continuity between them and the south pad of l2 and l3 use your dmm to test which is l/r i cant remember off the top of my head. you'll have to use some flux and tin the pads and wire first. use thin wire and secure it in place with a dab of epoxy once you test that its working properly. 
 
just edited the pic from above to show. it bypasses the bottom cap too, so you dont even need to remove that. so bottom is right and top one is left now i can see it.
 
.
 
May 23, 2011 at 4:22 PM Post #2,440 of 3,220
these things are really starting to die though, wont be too long before the parts are useless. the plastic in legit apple parts are getting old and brittle and oem are often dodgy.
 
May 23, 2011 at 11:01 PM Post #2,441 of 3,220
Quote:
these things are really starting to die though, wont be too long before the parts are useless. the plastic in legit apple parts are getting old and brittle and oem are often dodgy.


That's disturbing, Jeremy. I have a pristine refurbished iPod Video 5.5G - never used - that the Apple Store gave me circa 2007 when the battery on my old one died. I was thinking of having it modded at some point...
 
 
 
May 24, 2011 at 2:08 AM Post #2,442 of 3,220
it may well be fine, i'm just saying its a bit unpredictable and due to the fact that this is a 6+ year old model some of the parts are starting to show signs of fatigue, even the refurb ones. mainly in the little connectors, which are really quite fragile pieces of near impossible to replace thin plastic. you can get oem parts for most things that are new, but they are mostly of lesser quality and you cant get a refurb, or oem 80gb model logic board, the one with 64mb of internal memory, lots of ebay and other online sites claim they are selling it, but they arent, all of the oem boards i have seen, without fail are the 32mb model, which when using larger hard drives runs the battery out quicker and isnt as quick to seek, as the cache is smaller. 
 
but sounds like yours is probably a new board, just keep it out of the elements.
 
May 29, 2011 at 5:18 PM Post #2,444 of 3,220
Hi, I got an old ipod 5.5 from my sister.  I had just a few questions to double check before I start everything.
 
1. On the http://www.ualberta.ca/~jple/diyMod/, it says not to remove caps and inductors.  I still remove the Z chips, right?
 
2. If I want the caps to be inside the ipod.  The Caps go inbetween the Z chips and the C84/C85?
 
3. If I buy a regular LOD, which should have resistors in it already.  Do I still need to put 47k or 100R resistors in? 

 
Jun 22, 2011 at 6:20 AM Post #2,445 of 3,220
Can someone help me with some questions?
 
I been doing the DIYmod for an ipod 5.5.  The Left Channel is perfect, but the right channel is super quiet and fuzzy.
 
What I want to know is if this happens if the capacitor is defective.  I put 2 wire onto a headphone plug to test.( one to ground one to right channel) When I touch the line before the capacitor the sound is loud(same volume and quality as left channel) When I touch the other capacitor leg that leads to the line out.  Its super quiet and humming fuzzy sounding.
 
Z cap > wire > (loud) > Black gate NX HiQ 22uf 6.3v > (super quiet/fuzzy) > Wire> L2
 
These BG should be Bi-polar. So I'm not soldering to the wrong side.
 
What do you guys think?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top