yep stock+ is the way to go here.
Good luck on your exam.
Good luck on your exam.
TH-900 Fostex EZ-Simple Mods and other Fostex Dynamic Variants X00...Denon..More Bass ? Mid ? Soundstage ? Smooth trebles ?
- Thread starter Whitigir
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HAHA thanks!!! will do my best. Audiophile is a good student
Now can focus on papers after a perfect headphones are here!
Yeah, don't think too much about stock+ position during your exam. Must stay focus on test, not Fostex!
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So you love TH600 ? And you successfully modded it ? Ever wondered what would Th900 sound like for you ? 
? Ever wondered what would Th900 sound like for you ? So you love TH600 ? And you successfully modded it? Ever wondered what would Th900 sound like for you ?
Shhhhh... enough for now.
Let me leave happily with the current setup HAHAHA.
Oh btw, im freaking wonder why Tidal sounds better than Foobar Flac files.... WHYYY???
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Seriously ? I am sure you would hear improvements from th900 VS 600 and not Tidal Vs Foobar
. To all who enjoy these mods, please report back, and keep the thread alive 
happy tweaking!Seriously ? I am sure you would hear improvements from th900 VS 600 and not Tidal Vs Foobar. To all who enjoy these mods, please report back, and keep the thread alivehappy tweaking!
No...
I just wonder... Flac files should be the same with Tidal's files.. Do tidal tweak them to sound better? hmm
ravid350
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Thanks for sharing the mods. I quickly tried the foam disc mod on my TH-X00's. The stock plus seems to work better for me in improving the bass and smoothening the treble a bit.
Took the pads off my LA7000 and found the foam rings in two different positions (may be due to the "palm method" of removing pads) about 90* apart from each other. So at the least this thread allows me to set the headphones up with the foam in an equal position.
Listened to a couple of songs to try to ascertain differences but it was difficult to tell so decided to start with putting them both in position 3. As expected, the bass is so strong and clear. Now on to try a couple other locations..............more to come. Then on to the MD5000 and MD2000's..............thanks again for posting.
Listened to a couple of songs to try to ascertain differences but it was difficult to tell so decided to start with putting them both in position 3. As expected, the bass is so strong and clear. Now on to try a couple other locations..............more to come. Then on to the MD5000 and MD2000's..............thanks again for posting.
tomatoshoe
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Interesting.. Same as me. One of my foam rings on my TH900 wasn't lined up to stock. My other one was though.
A few comments to the mods.
Rotating the dampers will play with damping the driver loading in a different way but it's safe (won't ruin distortion and CSD measurements).
In my experience the cups mods do the least effect and the damper (the grey foam disk) mods do the most. I have used wool felt dampers for better mids and slighly (2-4 dB) less bass.
1. Pads
The TH900 pads have a plastic ring reinforcement that you need to cut off when you make the internal opening larger on the pleather flaps that secure the pads. You get less seal and less grip on the pads, they may also wear off more quickly. However one may assume that for better quality. I never tried this, but once I get new pads I may.
I have used carbon foam filling and left the pleather parts alone.
2. Tape covering holes
The TH900 loading is through the holes in the black plastic frame, and through the paper-like filters that cover them -- except 3 holes, 2 around the driver, and one on the outer perimeter of the frame (top position). It's a very clever loading, very difficult to calculate, and very sensitive. I have played with it a little and seems it's best to leave the factory settings alone. When you apply tape over the cups that's OK, but applying tape over the holes (even the covered portions) will change the loading, together with the measurements.
3. Removing the white polyfill from the cups results in the CSD showing strong and sustained midrange ringing ridge around 3 kHz. I am skeptical that by just covering with paper that ridge can be damped (covering by wool felt doesn't remove it either). But I will measure it (probably after my current rush is over in mid-April).
Until then I would say you do need to keep at least 3/4 thickness of the polyfill in order to have a clean CSD -- or use an alternative solution and make sure the CSD is clean. The ridge makes the sound more lively, but with bright piano recordings it will hurt the ears.
However also in my experience the tape (and basic Lawton mod) will indeed help in taming the treble, just don't apply it over any original paper, and use at least 3/4 of the polyfill.
I have also measured the Lawton basic mod applied in the cups, and it measures almost the same as the original fill, just sounds a bit more spacious. For those unsure about taping, I recommend it. I am currently using only the Lawton olive-colour carton-like pads glued to the inner surface of the cups, plus 3/4 original polyfill, plus paper tape on the black plastic parts of the driver frame.
Rotating the dampers will play with damping the driver loading in a different way but it's safe (won't ruin distortion and CSD measurements).
In my experience the cups mods do the least effect and the damper (the grey foam disk) mods do the most. I have used wool felt dampers for better mids and slighly (2-4 dB) less bass.
1. Pads
The TH900 pads have a plastic ring reinforcement that you need to cut off when you make the internal opening larger on the pleather flaps that secure the pads. You get less seal and less grip on the pads, they may also wear off more quickly. However one may assume that for better quality. I never tried this, but once I get new pads I may.
I have used carbon foam filling and left the pleather parts alone.
2. Tape covering holes
The TH900 loading is through the holes in the black plastic frame, and through the paper-like filters that cover them -- except 3 holes, 2 around the driver, and one on the outer perimeter of the frame (top position). It's a very clever loading, very difficult to calculate, and very sensitive. I have played with it a little and seems it's best to leave the factory settings alone. When you apply tape over the cups that's OK, but applying tape over the holes (even the covered portions) will change the loading, together with the measurements.
3. Removing the white polyfill from the cups results in the CSD showing strong and sustained midrange ringing ridge around 3 kHz. I am skeptical that by just covering with paper that ridge can be damped (covering by wool felt doesn't remove it either). But I will measure it (probably after my current rush is over in mid-April).
Until then I would say you do need to keep at least 3/4 thickness of the polyfill in order to have a clean CSD -- or use an alternative solution and make sure the CSD is clean. The ridge makes the sound more lively, but with bright piano recordings it will hurt the ears.
However also in my experience the tape (and basic Lawton mod) will indeed help in taming the treble, just don't apply it over any original paper, and use at least 3/4 of the polyfill.
I have also measured the Lawton basic mod applied in the cups, and it measures almost the same as the original fill, just sounds a bit more spacious. For those unsure about taping, I recommend it. I am currently using only the Lawton olive-colour carton-like pads glued to the inner surface of the cups, plus 3/4 original polyfill, plus paper tape on the black plastic parts of the driver frame.
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Yeah, do all mods, and you will bring about the ultimate quality out of your TH900. I added the part of how to control down more upper-mid and lower trebles energies spikes (step 5 in part II)
Also, the pad mod is "totally safe". Stock pads has the leather substances at the edges, it will hold on just fine and even return/retain to shape after a while.
Also, the pad mod is "totally safe". Stock pads has the leather substances at the edges, it will hold on just fine and even return/retain to shape after a while.
I am just wondering whether did you cover the original filter (white paper screen over the holes) around the driver? You didn't seem to cover them on the driver frame, that's good.
Also, it seems you only covered the edges of the frame around the drivers, not the filter itself, and that's good as well.
http://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1598384/
Overall nice mods and one can do them with easily available materials.
Also, it seems you only covered the edges of the frame around the drivers, not the filter itself, and that's good as well.
http://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1598384/
Overall nice mods and one can do them with easily available materials.
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Yeah, I know what to look for, and how to do stuff like these
. I really don't want to tell the people of uneffective and or negative effects mods, because it will confuse people. I simply want to share my sweet results to order and how to properly do it. I did forget to carefully explain on the drivers back, updating itAgreed, and hence the name (EZ-mods)
Also, the cups dampening tape will need (3 layers worth) to be effective and to clean up distortions, the drivers back will need dampened as well. I clearly stated that as well
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If anyone have any specific questions , please pm or fire away in the thread
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