[drp]

@shipsup - Thank you; excellent news. Was a misconception on my part after reading earlier in the thread about popping off some part, plus the fact that I had not read where anyone had actually swapped a cable. Good chance I just missed the post.
 
@AudioCats - Good to see your post. Over the past few days, I read through your 001 amp mod (missed original post). Great information all around (Li battery, wall warts, plus the mods). Think you'll dive into this version? I haven't soldered a SOIC since doing the D25 mod many moons ago to make it a dual DAC player; just might be game to try something if you take the plunge. 
 
The wall wart I picked up (while I dig for my old Sony 4.5V) is a LKG Industries brand: universal, regulated; rated for 1.7 amp. The 4.5V setting measured accurately enough and had the correct tip. Seems to be doing the job okay, plus was convenient (I have a You-Do-It Electronics store a few blocks from my office).

 

[gilency]

How many mA does your LKG adapter output?

 

[xcd1947]

Too expensive...

 

[drp]

Quote:

How many mA does your LKG adapter output?

1700 mAH (noted above in aH). Way above what this little jewel draws. They had a slightly cheaper model with lower max current out, but went with this one as I can always use it later for other current-hungry applications. I'm usually shy about using universals but this one measured out better than others I've used in a pinch. 
 
If works for you and cannot locate one, I can snag and ship one to you.

 

[AudioCats]

Quote:

..
@AudioCats - Good to see your post. Over the past few days, I read through your 001 amp mod (missed original post). Great information all around (Li battery, wall warts, plus the mods). Think you'll dive into this version? I haven't soldered a SOIC since doing the D25 mod many moons ago to make it a dual DAC player; just might be game to try something if you take the plunge.
..

 
 
I don't think I will buy one. The circuit looks similar and price tag is too high. Plus I don't use portable stuff much, maybe twice a year (two 001's are enough for me). Judging from what I can see in the pictures, I suspect the circuit might be basically the same just a different layout. Some parts might have been changed due to availability.
 
That said, this is still a new model so having the warranty might come in handy if any issue surfaces later on. Any modification will void the warranty I suppose.
 
If any body insist on doing mods, though....

To Start (keep in mind this is from just looking at the circuit board photos, the actual operation might be different):
 
1) replace input caps ( two red film cap and two purple electrolytic behind the volume pot) with higher grade parts.
 
2) replace HV reservoir cap (the one in the center of the output board... C34?). Ideally you should increase value to 0.033~0.047uf. Maybe by paralleling three sonicap Gen1 0.015uf/600V. ( and surprisingly, soniccraft.com is having 50% off on these caps

)
 
3) replace output caps (output board c9/10/11/12) on the output board. Ideally you should increase the value to 0.022~0.047. Not sure how much room is available there, but since the original caps are WIMA MKP4 0.01uf/630V (8.5mm height, 10mm length) I suspect the heighth limit is around 9mm, you might have to parallel two smaller caps to make a bigger one. Try some sonicap 0.015uf/600v, they should fit...(come on, 50% off isn't enough of an incentive for you?).  For higher performence try Relcap RTE, also available from soniccraft.
 
The difficult part is step1. in the old days we have blackgates BGNX 47uf/6.3v for that location (in the 001 amp mods), the caps were $5 each and we were crying "too expensive!".... nowadays they are >$20 a piece if you can find them, it is probably easier to just use a couple of compact 1uf film caps and call it good. Judging from the first picture, the available room is probably around 0.5"x1"x0.5", not that many polyprop cap can fit in there, you might have to go polyester. Or, might as well do a full mod, use large boutique film caps for input, hide the caps in the battery compartment and use an external battery pack for power.

 

[AudioCats]

Power supply solutions:
 
If someone decide to do a full mod (using large film caps for input, hiding in the battery bay), then they will need an external power supply. Good news is, we now have readyly available large capacity USB battery packs (5V output) with high current output capability, and you can charge it via USB. 
 
5000mAH capacity for $20, not bad at all. It even comes with an assortment of tips. Might as well get a couple so you always have one fully charged ready to go.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5000mAh-2-USB-Output-Power-Bank-External-Battery-Pack-for-ipad-iphone-Mobile-New-/110996970095?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item19d7ef5a6f
 
Imagine this: use the power pack to power your source, such as iMod or Sansa Fuze (use the 500mA output), and the 002 (use the 1A output), then add an external cap box/LOD, and stack them together...
 
iMod / Sansa fuze
 capbox/LOD
      002
power pack
 
It will be a thick stack but there you have a true high-end transportable system.
 
And imagine taking that through the TSA checks......

 

[AudioCats]

options for input film cap (to hide into the battery bay):
 
1uf/200V sonicap gen-1
1uf/310V dynamic cap (speaker version; the electronics version is too big to fit).
1uf 160V K42 paper-oil
..

 

[gilency]

Audiocats, that external battery pack looks nice. Thank you for the find.
Why would you use the 1 AMP (not the .5) for the Stax 002? Recommended by Stax is 4.5V 300 mAh.
I dont see why it could not be used even without the mods.

 

[AudioCats]

either socket will have enough mA rating, but I'd use the 1A socket for more current head-room. Why not, it is available 

. Save the 500mA socket for the source.

 

[Sahara]

Hi.
 
I have a question:
 
Is possble to conect a SR-002 to SRM-001? Could the SRM-001 drive the SR-002 well?
I think the conector is indentical but I'm not sure at all..
 
Thanks
 

 

[shipsupt]

And it works great.  I grabbed a 003 cable and I've now set up a 252A to use with the 002's in my office.  It tightens things up and seems to give everything a little more authority.  I had some trance going this morning that gave me some impressive bass impact from these little guys.  It's definitely an improvement over the portable, as it should be.
 
I leave the 002's here for daily use, so cable swaps will be fairly infrequent, only when I take them traveling.
 
Quote:

@shipsup - Thank you; excellent news. Was a misconception on my part after reading earlier in the thread about popping off some part, plus the fact that I had not read where anyone had actually swapped a cable. Good chance I just missed the post.
 

 

[rudi0504]

Quote:

Hi.
 
I have a question:
 
Is possble to conect a SR-002 to SRM-001? Could the SRM-001 drive the SR-002 well?
I think the conector is indentical but I'm not sure at all..
 
Thanks
 

Yes you can connect your sr 002 to your Srm 001 , sr 002 has the same connector as sr 001 mk 2 

 

[oogabooga]

I had some trance going this morning that gave me some impressive bass impact from these little guys. 

How important is the fit/seal to get decent bass?

 

[gilency]

You need a decent seal but not as tight as with armature IEM's.
I don't have to get them too deep, just sealing the entrance of the ear canals and I get nice bass.
To me the bass is just as deep as the Westone ES3X or UM3X.
I listen mainly to Classical and Jazz.
Rarely Rock, never heavy metal.
Some people c/o of lack of bass with them, and as you know, even with IEM's; so obviously seal is important.

 

[shipsupt]

How important is the fit/seal to get decent bass?

Like most IEM's it is very important, but the fit is slightly different. You need to get a good seal, but it can be a fairly light seal and you don't need to get the tips deep into the canal. Of course, with different ears ymmv on how you get the seal right.