[Jimster480]

Nope, only for 48KHz family.
It's 176.4kHz for 44.1KHz family and it is NOS at those highest source sample rates, but over all not NOS.

I'm sorry but what are you referring to?

 

[automojo]

There were rumours of a firmware update a few pages back. Does anyone have any more news? I'm wondering if it might improve compatibility with my Cayin N3 - is it Linux-based, I think it runs a custom version of HiBy - which sometimes works with the DAC3. I haven't asked Christophe about the update yet - thought I'd check in here first.

I highly doubt it, because this DAC uses a fairly simple USB interface

 

[Haden2866]

I heard back from Christophe regarding Android support. According to him a f/w update that is intended to address Linux issues is in the works, he hopes this update will help with Android as well. I would think it could help with the issues on High Sierra too. The DAC is in fact field-upgradeable which is good news but requires Windows for that. Let's hope he has enough cycles to get it done.

I highly doubt it, because this DAC uses a fairly simple USB interface

We established a few pages ago that the DAC3 has field-upgradeable firmware and that an update is in the works. You may have already seen this and be doubting nonetheless, in which case apologies.

 

[automojo]

We established a few pages ago that the DAC3 has field-upgradeable firmware and that an update is in the works. You may have already seen this and be doubting nonetheless, in which case apologies.

Great!!!
No worries...
I wasn’t aware
Thanks!!

 

[gvl2016]

I and some other people should, supposedly, be notified once the new f/w is available, but nothing yet. My understanding for its USB input the DAC has a micro-controller with a built-in USB interface that runs custom code to make it appear as a UAC1 device.

 

[automojo]

Sure..
My Maverick D1 Plus uses a Tennor chip.
No reclocker.
Extremely quiet and very good sounding.
May be a bit old school, but works perfect for my needs.
Feed it a clean, quiet 5 volts and you good.
As I have found with other DAC’s with this chip, and the DAC 3,
A USB cord with a physically separate power and insulated wire makes a big difference.

 

[Haden2866]

What about data-only USB cables? Does such a thing exist? I have a couple of battery-powered DACs including this one.
I guess one could snap the power pins of a standard USB A or B plug. 1 and 4 I think.

 

[automojo]

What about data-only USB cables? Does such a thing exist? I have a couple of battery-powered DACs including this one.
I guess one could snap the power pins of a standard USB A or B plug. 1 and 4 I think.

You need to supply 5 volts to the DAC somehow.
Wireworld makes a inexpensive cable that isolates the power and data wires, the Chroma.

 

[automojo]

You can also use a outboard Power supply that bypasses the Computers 5 volt power, like the USB Disrupters, etc
The cable in my experience makes more of a audible difference.

 

[Haden2866]

You can also use a outboard Power supply that bypasses the Computers 5 volt power, like the USB Disrupters, etc
The cable in my experience makes more of a audible difference.

Thanks. Yes I am using a 15v iFi Audio iPower SMPS with my DAC3. Just wondering whether there is any improvement to be gained by isolating it entirely from the USB power supply.

 

[kvik]

If you don't want to

What about data-only USB cables? Does such a thing exist? I have a couple of battery-powered DACs including this one.
I guess one could snap the power pins of a standard USB A or B plug. 1 and 4 I think.

If you don't want to modify, an Sbooster Vbus2 Isolator or iFi iDefender can be used. There are data-only cables as well, I believe Curious Cables makes one (has an alt. version w/o sep. power). I am sure a lot of other diy cable makers could also make you one.

I am not sure about this, but seem to remember some DACs need USB-power initially to perform a 'handshake', even when they are self-powered. Easy to try out, if you snap the pins as you suggest. Might be useful for others to know, if this is the case for DAC3. Though probably the designer would know, so perhaps just ask him.

 

[Haden2866]

If you don't want to

If you don't want to modify, an Sbooster Vbus2 Isolator or iFi iDefender can be used. There are data-only cables as well, I believe Curious Cables makes one (has an alt. version w/o sep. power). I am sure a lot of other diy cable makers could also make you one.

I am not sure about this, but seem to remember some DACs need USB-power initially to perform a 'handshake', even when they are self-powered. Easy to try out, if you snap the pins as you suggest. Might be useful for others to know, if this is the case for DAC3. Though probably the designer would know, so perhaps just ask him.

All very helpful. iFi Defender I am familiar with and will probably try at some point. Sbooster Vbus I haven't come across but looks to be good value.
In the interests of advancing both the science and the magic, I am prepared to take one for the team and sacrifice a whole printer cable by snapping off pins 1 and 4 to establish whether the DAC3 needs USB power for a handshake.
I will report back...

 

[kvik]

I believe Sbooster deals with VBUS (pin 1) only, whereas iDefender deals with both VBUS (pin 1) and GND (pin 4). Exactly how iDefender deals with GND, I don't know (iFi calls it IsoEarth). You might want to start with snapping pin 1, check for connection/handshake, then snap pin 4 and check again (rather than snapping both at the same time). I have a self-powered DAC which works fine with iDefender, and also with a plug where VBUS has been cut off. Haven't tried the Sbooster.

 

[automojo]

It’s all good
I tried the Schiit Wired on my Maverick and it made the sound worse.
I think the additional USB processing was to blame.
For me the Wireworld Ultraviolet USB, made a much bigger difference than trying then using the Disrupter. The Disrupter works well on my Maverick D1, with the Tenor chip. It also cut the dropouts down to zero. Entry level lap top with marginal USB power.

 

[richard51]

I pick a very interesting remark on the Chord Dave thread about Nos dac:

Romaz about the chord dave:
«Having owned a very fine TotalDac d1- monobloc, I find NOS DACs like the Nagra and most resistance ladder DACs much more to my liking than any chip DACs I have thus far heard. They are indeed smoother and less "digital" sounding than chip DACs but I admit now that it is a distortion that I favor with NOS DACs. The problem with enjoying distortion is while pleasing on some level, there are limits to how real and engaging this can ever sound and you don't realize it until you hear something like the DAVE. With NOS specifically, there is the other problem of low ambition. The NOS concept aspires only to translate the original digital signal as best as it can. Rob, as we know, aspires to a much higher goal as he has been very clear that his goal has always been to reproduce the original analog waveform and this is simply not possible without oversampling and so it is ironic that people equate NOS to analog when it has no real intentions of truly being analog.»

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/chord-electronics-dave.766517/page-443#post-13155785

It explain the intention of one of the greatest Dac designer Rob Watts in few words....
I recommend to all to read about this guy...

The few of us that enjoy the French minimalist design Dac at the price paid, must think seriously before upgrading it.... My Dac 2 is so good in my system,musical, and non fatiguing, I will postpone to a future indeterminate my wish for the Dave... I think, but it is solely my non informed opinion, that under 1000 bucks, any so called upgrade of this battery dac will be a sidegrade....Enjoy your music, my best wishes to all of you for the best part of the year to come...