Finally received the Shure SRH1840s today and am listening as I write this, connected to my WM1A. I'm still waiting for silver coated OCC 4.4 cable from Surf Cables, but am listening through the SE with the stock cable for now. I'm needing to turn the volume of the WM1A up to between 85 and 100 to get any sufficient to power these cans. The sound is truly neutral, and I'm not sure what I think quite yet. The WM1A is fairly neutral sounding as it is, so adding a neutral headphone might just dull the sound a bit too much. I'm going to wait for the 4.4mm cable and make a better decision next week. I'm wondering however if I should've gone for the HD660s, and might still swap depending on the 1840s sound with the new cable and through the 4.4mm output. LOVE the open back design though.
I am new here. First, thanks a lot for a bulk of very helpful information in this great thread!
I purchased a preowned WM1A (so burn-in should not be an issue) for a reasonable price and I got it Wednesday last week. I am realy happy! This is what I was looking for.
These is only a minor thing: the WM1A is lacking the virtual surround program VTP the A45 has. Due to minieer desease I cannot hear certain frequences on the left ear. E.g. Rolling Stones' stereo version of '2000 light years from home' turns into an instrumental, because the vocals are in the range I cannot hear. VTP Studio setting mitigates this pretty good.
So, long story, short question: is there a modyfied firmware with a 'close to mono' soundstage similar to VTP Studio setting you can recommend?
Finally received the Shure SRH1840s today and am listening as I write this, connected to my WM1A. I'm still waiting for silver coated OCC 4.4 cable from Surf Cables, but am listening through the SE with the stock cable for now. I'm needing to turn the volume of the WM1A up to between 85 and 100 to get any sufficient to power these cans. The sound is truly neutral, and I'm not sure what I think quite yet. The WM1A is fairly neutral sounding as it is, so adding a neutral headphone might just dull the sound a bit too much. I'm going to wait for the 4.4mm cable and make a better decision next week. I'm wondering however if I should've gone for the HD660s, and might still swap depending on the 1840s sound with the new cable and through the 4.4mm output. LOVE the open back design though.
If you need more warmth, play around with the vinyl processor, eq, DSSE HX, Phase Linearizer, it should help quite a bit. also, there are different FWs available, you should be able to find the ones more suitable to your taste. What do you like? Warmth, thick vocals, huge soundstage etc? People here should be able to help and advise you on what would be suitable to your needs. Tell us what is your favorite sound profile and go from there.
If you need more warmth, play around with the vinyl processor, eq, DSSE HX, Phase Linearizer, it should help quite a bit. also, there are different FWs available, you should be able to find the ones more suitable to your taste. What do you like? Warmth, thick vocals, huge soundstage etc? People here should be able to help and advise you on what would be suitable to your needs. Tell us what is your favorite sound profile and go from there.
Thanks, now I'm beginning to wonder if the SRH1840s sound better with my Hiby R5 which I bought at same time as the WM1A (for a more portable solution). Believe it or not, the R5 is a little more powerful than the WM1A and there are many more sound adjustments/equalizer settings that can be tweaked. I'm listening to these cans with the R5 and now am thinking that with a nice balanced cable and connection, I may keep them after all. I got a great deal on them ($380USD).
If you need more warmth, play around with the vinyl processor, eq, DSSE HX, Phase Linearizer, it should help quite a bit. also, there are different FWs available, you should be able to find the ones more suitable to your taste. What do you like? Warmth, thick vocals, huge soundstage etc? People here should be able to help and advise you on what would be suitable to your needs. Tell us what is your favorite sound profile and go from there.
I prefer strong, forward mids, not too much bass, bright, sparkly highs. Yes, wide soundstage and retaining that excellent, native separation. Warmth and thick vocals not as important. I’m on 3.02 and no idea what region. I don’t have a PC to check, only a Mac.
I prefer strong, forward mids, not too much bass, bright, sparkly highs. Yes, wide soundstage and retaining that excellent, native separation. Warmth and thick vocals not as important. I’m on 3.02 and no idea what region. I don’t have a PC to check, only a Mac.
I think 3.02 fw is a good Fw for huge soundstage, bright, good separation. Using China region gives best seperation and clarity, Japan Region is very special and very good too. I just remember, if you like strong forward vocal , maybe Japan region is a better choice while I prefer max clarity and separation, so I use China region.There are other regions but I’m not familiar with them.
For FW I recommend maybe try Classical FW, or Solis, or WM1Az; there are other suitable FWs as well but there are so many of them and I didn’t try all. Others can help you with different Fw they think maybe good for you; what’s the best synergy with your headphone and cables. Everyone has different taste of what’s best to them, we can only recommend what we think maybe good match.
Also ask Nc8000 for different fws, he should be able to help you
Thanks, now I'm beginning to wonder if the SRH1840s sound better with my Hiby R5 which I bought at same time as the WM1A (for a more portable solution). Believe it or not, the R5 is a little more powerful than the WM1A and there are many more sound adjustments/equalizer settings that can be tweaked. I'm listening to these cans with the R5 and now am thinking that with a nice balanced cable and connection, I may keep them after all. I got a great deal on them ($380USD).
The problem with the 1840s is that they can tend to sound thin (I haven’t listened to my own pair for a very long time for the same reason), so - if the R5 has a heavier sound then I can see exactly where you’re coming from - better system matching.
I think 3.02 fw is a good Fw for huge soundstage, bright, good separation. Using China region gives best seperation and clarity, Japan Region is very special and very good too.
For FW I recommend maybe try Classical FW, or Solis, or WM1Az; there are other suitable FWs but there are so many of them and I didn’t try all. Others can help you with different Fw they think maybe good for you; what’s the best synergy with your headphone and cables. Everyone has different taste of what’s best to them, we can only recommend what we think maybe good match.
Also ask Nc8000 for different fws, he should be able to help you
The problem with the 1840s is that they can tend to sound thin (I haven’t listened to my own pair for a very long time for the same reason), so - if the R5 has a heavier sound then I can see exactly where you’re coming from - better system matching.
Maybe JerryHead could try FW 3.01, it will thicken the sound a bit at expense of soundstage, clarity and separation. It should make 1840s sound better? Or even FW 2.00 that has a very thick sound although clarity and separation would suffer quite a bit; use Cn Region to alleviate some of the problem
Finally got around to changing regions now on my 1A and 1Z. Been taking mental notes on people’s progress with firmware and region combos. Even received a couple PMs (out of the blue) asking if I changed regions yet. Lol
Still on Jupiter301 T1 and new Japan region on both players. I was expecting from what I read that the 1A would move to warmer from my original factory U region and it did. I know this has been said before, but J is good for a frequency midrange correction over region U with the 1A. Obviously Jupiter301 T1 has an add, but I’m guessing that J is the way the 1A is actually designed to sound? Really good I have to say. Probably less curious about changing firmware on the 1A? Though the 1Z seems to emerge with greater smoothness and laidbackness from factory U?
I was actually expecting this from reading about the J region and the 1Z; kind of adding upon factors the 1Z has anyway. Maybe the midrange on U region set better with the 1Z? It’s going to take a while for the dust to settle with the 1Z. Probably will have to go back and forth over some older brighter firmwares as well as roll back to stock 3.02? 3.02 to my ears is pretty cool with the 1Z. Though with the new J region cohesiveness and politeness it’s grounds for taking the 1Z back into those forward and brighter sparkler firmwares.
The problem with the 1840s is that they can tend to sound thin (I haven’t listened to my own pair for a very long time for the same reason), so - if the R5 has a heavier sound then I can see exactly where you’re coming from - better system matching.
Yes, you nailed it when you mentioned "heavier." That's exactly the word to describe the synergy of the R5 with the 1840s. The WM1A isn't working with them. I'd probably send the 1840s back if I didn't have the R5. But with these two, it's working, and with a balanced and upgraded quality cable, it'll likely be all that much better.
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