[equalspeace]

3.01 on the 1A is pure magic. Balanced, detailed sound, with an excellent stage. I've actually been using the Oriolus Mk2 on SE output lately cause of the of the sensitivity of this IEM. Definitely a lower noise floor for sensitive IEMs on the SE side. Plus I need to burn that side in anyway

 

[flyer1]

My Z5's have been collecting dust for several weeks now..

New favourite combo: WM1Z/Sony Kimber/Final Audio E5000.

 

[Liono]

I talked to a Sony rep at a show a few weeks back, and he says that the 40th anniversary edition walkman will not be a top-end model but a mid-range model that incorporates a retro walkman feel to it.

I wonder what this will mean. Will it have a sound that is inferior to the NW-WM1A or similar? mm

 

[equalspeace]

I have reviewed all firmwares via SE not balanced if you are interested only on my Revonext QT2 AND senheiser IE80 its on this thread 3.01 its the best staging and bass gets deeper but a little lacking in my opinion... 2.0 less staging warmer bass but less deep and more like a bass effect... not like the bass on 3.01 where bass its more acurate and fast, 3.0 its an abomination... i think you could be right about 3.0 being a little bigger stage... I allways think Sony ingeniers balance bass response
with soundstage the more bass the narrower sounstage, for me thats just wrong,

(Sidecoment) there was a company named sensaura that maked awesome 3DPA cues too bad they all forgot about it when creative bought it and destroyed it with their (payed) propietary 3D effect no-were near sensaura couse they had embebed hardware inside their cards to acurately process the 3D effects....,

I think sony should keep searching the perfect staging and bass for IEM and Heaphones thats what we all want and they have hit the nail with 3.01 that im happy for. * for me it needs still some more bass.. and trebble refinement since i can hear well avobe 16khz why eq only gets there... ok no gimmics... I actually end turning down the 16kz band to boost the above spectrum... same with bass i end turning down 62hz band a lot -5db to hear 31hz and below more... so i might have some issues on my taste... U shaped freak. (WM1A)

yeah, the 3.01 tuning is definitely on the neutral side of things, which for me is how all DAPs should play out of the box.

 

[auronthas]

Recently i got my Sony WMC-NWH10 (picture below) WMport to USB female cable connecting my WM1A/Z to external DAC (DacMagic) with USB to USB-B , but due to this old DAC, the USB B input only support up to 16-bit 44.1kHZ...


I am wondering if there is any USB to toslink/coaxial/spdif cable available? As my old DacMagic is having toslink and coaxial input with 24/96kHz support .

 

[bflat]

Recently i got my Sony WMC-NWH10 (picture below) WMport to USB female cable connecting my WM1A/Z to external DAC (DacMagic) with USB to USB-B , but due to this old DAC, the USB B input only support up to 16-bit 44.1kHZ...


I am wondering if there is any USB to toslink/coaxial/spdif cable available? As my old DacMagic is having toslink and coaxial input with 24/96kHz support .

What you are looking for is a DDC device (digital to digital converter). There are a wide range of solutions at an equally wide range of prices. I would personally recommend the Singxer F1 which goes for about $200:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=singxer+f-1

I have the higher end model SU-1 which adds more digital out options like i2S. Those go for less than $400 for a base model and upwards to $800 for fully modded power supply.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...c=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=singxer+f1&LH_TitleDesc=0

A good DDC is always a good component to have and will likely find good use for all of your future DACs.

 

[auronthas]

What you are looking for is a DDC device (digital to digital converter). There are a wide range of solutions at an equally wide range of prices. I would personally recommend the Singxer F1 which goes for about $200:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=singxer+f-1

I have the higher end model SU-1 which adds more digital out options like i2S. Those go for less than $400 for a base model and upwards to $800 for fully modded power supply.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...c=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=singxer+f1&LH_TitleDesc=0

A good DDC is always a good component to have and will likely find good use for all of your future DACs.

Thanks, exactly I am looking for DDC, I thought there's a direct cable without PCB converter LOL

This could be another option, but not available…

USB to Digital Optical Toslink Coaxial Headset Output Audio Signal Decoder DAC Decoding Converter Adapter For Home HIFI Speaker
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cHrvzgz2

 

[Whitigir]

The connectors are more for conveniences. The format of the audio files are limited by the interfaces itself. For example, if your Walkman Digital out is limited at 16/44.1 then it doesn’t matter what DDC or Optical connections...you are using, you still get limited at 16/44.1

 

[bflat]

Thanks, exactly I am looking for DDC, I thought there's a direct cable without PCB converter LOL

This could be another option, but not available…

USB to Digital Optical Toslink Coaxial Headset Output Audio Signal Decoder DAC Decoding Converter Adapter For Home HIFI Speaker
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cHrvzgz2

I would not recommend cheap options like above. The devices is that type of pricing tier are purely designed to connect disparate interfaces without considering audio quality. You want to make sure you have the following so you get a net improvement in audio quality:

1) Good usb controller like XMOS
2) Asynchronous clock that has low jitter
3) Low noise - at least passive filters, but galvanic isolation is even better, but more expensive

I good DDC that all of the above features is not cheap, but consider it an investment that will hold its value for a long time. I've changed DACs and amps more times than I care to say, but my SU-1 has been the one constant component along with good cables.

 

[Liono]

Recently i got my Sony WMC-NWH10 (picture below) WMport to USB female cable connecting my WM1A/Z to external DAC (DacMagic) with USB to USB-B , but due to this old DAC, the USB B input only support up to 16-bit 44.1kHZ...


I am wondering if there is any USB to toslink/coaxial/spdif cable available? As my old DacMagic is having toslink and coaxial input with 24/96kHz support .

You want one of these puppies if you can still get them! Turtle Beach does the job for me! It doesn't require drivers and works with an OTG cable, which is what the WMC-NWH10 is.

https://www.ecoustics.com/products/turtle-beach-amigo-ii-micro/

It's also cheap! less than £10 when I bought mine. You need the Micro II USB model which has the SPDIF built into the 3.5mm jack like the old Minidisc recorders.

 

[Whitigir]

I would not recommend cheap options like above. The devices is that type of pricing tier are purely designed to connect disparate interfaces without considering audio quality. You want to make sure you have the following so you get a net improvement in audio quality:

1) Good usb controller like XMOS
2) Asynchronous clock that has low jitter
3) Low noise - at least passive filters, but galvanic isolation is even better, but more expensive

I good DDC that all of the above features is not cheap, but consider it an investment that will hold its value for a long time. I've changed DACs and amps more times than I care to say, but my SU-1 has been the one constant component along with good cables.

When it comes to “sound quality”. I also suggest to take @bflat recommendations. Unless, all you care about is “how to” connect your Walkman to desktop DAC regardless of everything else

 

[Rchandra]

So I've been noticing from time to time that the left channel sometimes has balance issues I've never had a issue on the right channel but when I run these balanced on the 4.4mm socket I'm starting to notice a lack of detail on the left side.. I thought it was my ears but going through the pages I've noticed others having a similar issue... I'm using the 4.4mm balanced with a adapter connected to my hd800S and sony z1r on the wm1a

 

[endlesswaves]

So I've been noticing from time to time that the left channel sometimes has balance issues I've never had a issue on the right channel but when I run these balanced on the 4.4mm socket I'm starting to notice a lack of detail on the left side.. I thought it was my ears but going through the pages I've noticed others having a similar issue... I'm using the 4.4mm balanced with a adapter connected to my hd800S and sony z1r on the wm1a

Some posters including myself mentioned this before. I just twist the plug clockwise a bit and it solved this matter. This problem doesn't cropped up too often but happens like once a fortnight.

 

[auronthas]

I would not recommend cheap options like above. The devices is that type of pricing tier are purely designed to connect disparate interfaces without considering audio quality. You want to make sure you have the following so you get a net improvement in audio quality:

1) Good usb controller like XMOS
2) Asynchronous clock that has low jitter
3) Low noise - at least passive filters, but galvanic isolation is even better, but more expensive

I good DDC that all of the above features is not cheap, but consider it an investment that will hold its value for a long time. I've changed DACs and amps more times than I care to say, but my SU-1 has been the one constant component along with good cables.

When it comes to “sound quality”. I also suggest to take @bflat recommendations. Unless, all you care about is “how to” connect your Walkman to desktop DAC regardless of everything else

Thanks for your both recommendation and thought. Actually my DACMagic is connected to HIFI system, not Deck DAC. I would think about investing a good DDC in future by looking at its price and I have an alternative plan as below but off topic.

I have another DAP R6, there is line out/coaxial out , managed to use 3.5mm jack and coaxial input to DACMagic, finally i can hear DacMagic 's Wolfson DAC perform 24/96kHz for the first time . Great sound.

 

[Mund1]

Some posters including myself mentioned this before. I just twist the plug clockwise a bit and it solved this matter. This problem doesn't cropped up too often but happens like once a fortnight.

In similar situations for headphone jacks, other cable jacks, and initially for dirty pots on my guitar and bass amps. I use CAIG DeOxit Cleaning solution Spray. When I notice a crackle, distorted connection on a jack, I will take a bit of the cleaner on a Q-Tip (I don't spray the jack), I take the Q-Tip and clean/lube the male connector, leaving a very minimal coating on it, plug it into the jack, plug in remove, repeat a few times, Rotate it in the jack, and problem solved. It enhances the electrical connection as well. Leaves a thin conductive coating.