Guys, this may sound absurd to some here, I don't know what I have been missing out all these years but just only today I have discovered a new sub-genre of music, its called Symphonic Metal. Just want to share this amazing genre of music that is both relaxing and entertaining to listen at the same time.
Old response but couldn’t help myself, if you discovered this 2 weeks ago, then here are three songs that can get you more into that sub genre which is basically why I listen to music in the first place:
Haggard - Per Aspera Ad Astra
Therion - The rise of Sodom and Gomorrah
Therion - La Maritza
All Nightwish, Epica, and Xandria Albums are highly recommended as well.
Might be on old question covered already, but I couldn’t find it.
Do you have any issues with the Wm1A remote control while LDAC streaming is active?
Background story: I use the ES100 exclusively with Wm1A over LDAC, the equalizer of ES100 over LDAC is providing an excellent setup -to my ears- for certain lists I have, and as it is very small and I terminated a bunch of short cables for all the IEMs I have. Reaching to the flimsy buttons on the ES100 for pause, play, forward, backward is a nightmare, also while it is connected to the car AUX.
So I got the small Japanese remote and it works perfectly with WM1A, except when the ES100 is connected over LDAC as well! Basically, every split of a second the sound will cut continuously till I shut the remote off!
I ordered the new Qudelix 5K which should arrive next week, to understand if it is an issue with the ES100, or the LDAC in general.
Yet wanted to know if any of you had a similar experience or an advice.
I totally disagree with you regarding your 24bit claim. My ears don’t lie! I’ve been entertaining with recorded music since mid seventies & spent 100 of 1000 dollars or more in trying to improve sound. I finally found the sound in 24bit. You get the best commercialy avaible version in 24bit. But there will be versions were the differences are minimal. Or that the provider simply cheat and sell a CD version as a 24bit.
I can agree here.
For example, much of my music is 24bit flac.
But your forgetting those the 24bit can be so many different formats (like DSD), so processed differently, with different bitrates...
I believe the biggest difference is that 24 bit recordings are mostly newer recorded events, which are using newer equipment.
If the specific sonic improvements detected are not related to "loudness" (dynamic range), then it has something more to do than just the 24bit depth aspect.
Maybe more the source, format, better recording studio gear, mastering methods, or sampling bitrates.
I'll take this opportunity to say that I appreciate your contribution to this thread in offering these firmwares, and also your patience in kindly directing people to the right post/info.
Between the ZX300, ZX507, WM1A, WM1Z (maybe even the A45/55) is it possible to graph the differences that their hardware has on the sound?
For example, take sub bass, if you put the same firmware or tuning that maxed out sub bass on each device how different would the hardware impact the sound?
I'm not a graphs person by the way, I was just thinking that would be a visual way to display how hardware impacts the sound and by how much.
Between the ZX300, ZX507, WM1A, WM1Z (maybe even the A45/55) is it possible to graph the differences that their hardware has on the sound?
For example, take sub bass, if you put the same firmware or tuning that maxed out sub bass on each device how different would the hardware impact the sound?
I'm not a graphs person by the way, I was just thinking that would be a visual way to display how hardware impacts the sound.
For anyone interested, the A40Series firmware mod was released.
Edit: If you want to post this on other forums, it would be nice to provide a link to this post, and not
a direct Google Drive link or anything like that. Thanks!
Hello people,
There is a new (unofficial) firmware for the NW-A40Series. Please welcome...
NW-A40Series Reloaded andReloaded+
This firmware mod is based on the firmware of the NW-ZX300, and it brings the following features: - new, improved sound - high gain setting
- Bluetooth Receiver function
- 10 band equalizer
- DSEE HX AI (from DMP-Z1) and other 4 selectable DSEE HX modes
- DC Phase Linearizer with 6 selectable modes
- Vinyl Processor with 4 selectable modes
- Visualizers: Spectrum Analyzer/Analog VU Meter/Digital Peak Meter - hardware accelerated rendition of the UI
There are some removed features in exchange: - FM Radio
- Noise cancelling
- Language study
The Reloaded+ version brings a different sound than the normal version, and a slightly
improved battery life.
How to install the modified firmware 1. Connect the player to the computer using the USB cable, and enable
the Mass Storage mode.
2. Open the "Model Switcher" tool, and choose the second option.
The device will do an update, which should take around 1 minute.
3. After the device restarts, do a full factory reset.
(Settings > Device Settings > Reset/Format > Restore to Factory Configuration)
4. After the Reset is complete and the device restarted, install one of
the two firmware versions - "A40Series Reloaded" or "A40Series Reloaded+".
While in this "switched" state, you can freely switch between these two firmware versions.
How to get back to the stock firmware 1. Connect the player to the computer using the USB cable, and enable
the Mass Storage mode.
2. Open the "Model Switcher" tool, and choose the second option.
The device will do an update, which should take around 1 minute.
3. After the device restarts, do a full factory reset.
(Settings > Device Settings > Reset/Format > Restore to Factory Configuration).
4. After the reset is complete and the device restarted, install any version of the official Sony firmware.
Notes
Notes regarding the installation/model switching - If (usually) Microsoft Defender detects the Model Switcher as having a virus, it does not have a virus. Feel free to check the file with a more competent antivirus, or just don't try the mod I guess.
- You will not be able to just install the mod without switching the mod first. Please follow all the steps!
- Do not try to install an official firmware version without switching the model back first!
- A full factory reset will erase the "Hours played" counter (if you care about it),
and it will also erase anything in the internal memory. If you use a MicroSD card,
don't worry about it, as nothing from the MicroSD card gets deleted.
- Using the switcher itself will also reset the "Hours played" counter, but it will
not erase anything from the internal memory of from the MicroSD card.
- If you switched the destination of your player to J, doing a factory reset will make
it unable to change the language. To change the language, switch the destination
to another one, change the language as desired, and then you can change the
destination back to J. If you never heard of destinations, you have nothing to worry
about. (Rockbox destination tool)
- If you will still get any "Database issue" errors after doing the full factory reset,
just do another full factory reset. Once the error is gone, it will stay gone until you
will use the "A40Series Reloaded Switcher" tool again. The error is usually gone
after the first full factory reset.
Notes regarding the use of the mod - Having "Direct Source" mode on while playing DSD files, will result in no sound
being played back.
Between the ZX300, ZX507, WM1A, WM1Z (maybe even the A45/55) is it possible to graph the differences that their hardware has on the sound?
For example, take sub bass, if you put the same firmware or tuning that maxed out sub bass on each device how different would the hardware impact the sound?
I'm not a graphs person by the way, I was just thinking that would be a visual way to display how hardware impacts the sound and by how much.
How could the hardware sound be separated out? Don't see any way to do that, and it is even more impossible to try to compare against different models, with different hardware, AND different firmware/software, etc., etc. And what is the relevance to anything to do that, even if it were possible to do?
Always use your walkman to format your microsd card first before placing music inside.
Meaning if you have placed music inside an existing sdcard that was formatted by windows or preformatted out of box. You have to transfer the music from the sdcard out to a PC/MAC. Do the re-format on the walkman before transferring back.
From my own experience, there's a sound quality difference when you use a sdcard that is formatted by the Walkman itself.
How could the hardware sound be separated out? Don't see any way to do that, and it is even more impossible to try to compare against different models, with different hardware, AND different firmware/software, etc., etc. And what is the relevance to anything to do that, even if it were possible to do?
Frequently I see comments along the lines of the WM1A being very neutral, it seems regardless of firmwares/tunings etc. I enjoy sub bass and was wondering if hardware limitations meant that it can't register as deep as perhaps the WM1Z or other models like the ZX507?
I originally meant a single tuning that emphasized the deepest sub bass compared on any of those devices to see how which could go deeper than another. People make graphs for equipment so I just wondered if it was possible - I don't understand these things and was trying to get my head around tunings vs hardware so please disregard my post.
I do find that the ZX507 is able to deliver deeper sub-bass over the ZX300. This is tested with intentional EQ bass adjustment and use of DC phase Linearizer type A Low on my most *bass intensive music. At the lowest sub-bass region, the ZX507 feels more defined with more boom and slam while the ZX300 sub-bass felt weaker, like a one noted thump.
So far I do think that Sony has been spot on when it comes to describing the technical merits of their designs on their product page:
Newly developed FT CAP
Custom-made for Sony and tuned by Sony engineers, the newly developed FT CAP (high polymer capacitor) strengthens the power supply to the amp block for a balanced output. This helps the NW-ZX500 deliver expansive vocals and instrumentation, plus powerful bass notes.
That is odd as all my albums are tagged with ALBUMSORTORDER.
When I view Aerosmith "Toys in the Attic [Hi-Res]" is the third album shown (I also have the previous two albums and they start with "101 - Aerosmith [Hi-Res]" and "102 - Get Your Wings [Hi-Res]"
As I HAVE SAID different formats, different tags.
Flac maybe uses ALBUMSORT
DSD/MP3 maybe ALBUMSORTORDER
MP4-AAC/ALAC I am not sure what iToons uses
APE has it's own ape tag format
As I HAVE SAID different formats, different tags.
Flac maybe uses ALBUMSORT
DSD/MP3 maybe ALBUMSORTORDER
MP4-AAC/ALAC I am not sure what iToons uses
APE has it's own ape tag format
I'm considering pairing WM1A or WM1Z(or Lotoo Paw 6000) with Noble Audio Katana (
it will come next week ).
Do you have a recommendation, experiences with this combination?
Dilemma, which player to buy?
Thanks for yours answers.
Ladislav.
I tried the Nobel Audio Katana Universal while in the demo process against the Noble Audio Encore Universal from a 1Z. Not sure of the 1Z firmware, but it was before Sony 2.0 came out.
But strangely I was all set on buying (the Encore IEM) even before hearing them. That kind of happens where I already know to buy an IEM before demoing it due to a good review. I had read Pinky Powers review of the Encore. The Katana actually made me want the Encore more as it kind of shows the Encore personality by it’s contrast. But many want of course what the Katana does itself!
Both are pure BA IEMs. Katana 9, Encore 10. Both came out at roughly the same time with the Katana slightly earlier. Both co-flagships before the Khan last year and Sultan this year. The Katana is more flat, where the Encore is W graph-out. Both are a continuation of the Noble K-10. The 1Z was nice with the Katana. I could not hear any hiss, but both are considered very sensitive. I after getting great fit really like the Encore. More treble spike along with a treble dip going down towards the mids. The bass is said to be enhanced in the Katana though I didn’t seem to notice it. Katana very straight laced, which people who like it are after. The Encore has a treble spike that is still not that strong even combined with the treble enhancements of the 1Z.
Probably the best is both the 1Z and 1A have the ability to warm up the overall BA coldness. Now I use the 1A more with MrWalkman and J region added the 1A/1Z+ and the Encore with a 4.4mm HanSound Audio ZENTOO cable. I was able to get fit with LL tips.
But I don’t think anyone would loose matching the Katana with either player.
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