[RobertP]

Nowadays, I make sure that battery stay around 90 to 40 percent charge to insure maximize sound performance.

 

[Maxx134]

Oh. Simply put I’m thinking of using the 4.4mm ended cable from the 1AM2 for the WH-1000XM3, which is where the idea comes from. I’ll see how it sounds. Thanks for that explanation

It may fit perfectly but no good for player if the headphones are wired not balanced inside.

thinking of my WH-1000XM3

If it's single ended wiring it will short the negatives together inside.

So even though it’s suggested in the cable listing that it would work, the cable would actually ruin the Walkman!

Agreed, the perfect fitting cables have no relevance, if the headphones is wired inside single-ended, then it will combine the negatives and so be danger for the Sony wich needs the wires separated, and full balanced inside the headphones wiring.

 

[Gamerlingual]

It may fit perfectly but no good for player if the headphones are wired not balanced inside.

If it's single ended wiring it will short the negatives together inside.

Agreed, the perfect fitting cables have no relevance, if the headphones is wired inside single-ended, then it will combine the negatives and so be danger for the Sony wich needs the wires separated, and full balanced inside the headphones wiring.

I actually went back to E-Earphone to sample the Z7M2 and Z1R and spent a solid 3 hours using them both. I did a lot of stretching around my neck and back before diving in and finally noticed the little differences. Both offer better sounds for the electric guitar riffs and drums while the Z1R has more of a concert feel to it. After really analyzing the sounds using my Z1, I went back to adjusting the EQ on the Z1 using my WH-1000XM3 while going back to the Direct stock sound on the big cans. I managed to get the ideal EQ to match the sound of them as close as I could. Mission accomplished. Then, I transferred whatever FLAC files I had and changed them into ALAC and adjusted the EQ from the Z1 settings (as close as I could) to the Sony App and virtually got the matching soundstage I wanted. It worked out better than expected and now I can keep using my iPhone 11 Pro in BT mode while using my 1A and 1Z for my 1AM2. People are right that you gotta put in the time to really analyze all the sounds and pitches to understand how the instruments can create that synergy you want out of your cans.

Oh and regarding the clamp force, I really made sure I adjusted both headphones and didn’t have much pressure today, Stretching then lightly and made sure the height was where it needed to be so I could feel the comfort. I was too determined to give up. Ultimately, I felt that the biggest difference was spending an extra $500 to $1700 USD on the MDR-Z1R and Z7M2 to get more stable guitar rifts and better mid percussion which I found it hard to justify when comparing it with my 1AM2. Still, I see why people love those headphones for their different target markets. They are well done and worth the price of admission to those that decide to take the plunge.

Truly, the best combo I found was the Z1 combined with the IER-Z1R connected to my PHA-2A amp in balanced mode brought the best audio experience that my ears could listen to after all the studying I did at E-Earphone and Dyna 5555. This was probably more extensive than it needed to be. But hey, I did my homework.

 

[Sonywalkmanuser]

I felt that Z7M2 has wider soundstage and a deeper bass over the 1AM2.

Tonality wise they sound 95% similar. 1AM2 had abit more midbass boost and slightly brighter.

In the end I picked the 1AM2 as I felt it has a more fun tuning over the more neutral Z7M2.

 

[Gamerlingual]

I felt that Z7M2 has wider soundstage and a deeper bass over the 1AM2.

Tonality wise they sound 95% similar. 1AM2 had abit more midbass boost and slightly brighter.

In the end I picked the 1AM2 as I felt it has a more fun tuning over the more neutral Z7M2.

Hi there. I was referred to you by @Redcarmoose but it says your profile is limited in who can see it. Would it be ok to ask a couple of follow up questions considering your expertise over PM?

 

[Vitaly2017]

Mysterious mystios

 

[Ravenous]

If you change the model to 1Z, then you will have to use 1Z tunings.

Most of my tunings are for 1A, but some are for 1Z as well, like this one, which I recommend trying: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1KlDLzWBSPpOpGLA8vKEbsf8wEaNAgizs?usp=sharing

There is another one in my signature, WM1Z².

So I've noticed that the reason why I was not able to install your Autumn+ tuning to my WM1A(1Z J) was because the WM1Z+JP installer detected my device as U region, even though I set the region to J with the command prompt (scsitool-nwz-v26.exe H: dest_tool set J). Does this mean that even though the command prompt lists my device as J region with the command "scsitool-nwz-v26.exe H: dest_tool get", that my device is actually still U region?

 

[515164]

So I've noticed that the reason why I was not able to install your Autumn+ tuning to my WM1A(1Z J) was because the WM1Z+JP installer detected my device as U region, even though I set the region to J with the command prompt (scsitool-nwz-v26.exe H: dest_tool set J). Does this mean that even though the command prompt lists my device as J region with the command "scsitool-nwz-v26.exe H: dest_tool get", that my device is actually still U region?

If the original region was one from the Universal variant (like U, MX, E), and then you change the region to one from another variant (like J from JP variant, or CEV, CEW from EU variant), you will still have to install packages for the original variant.

So if your device is Universal by default, that does not change when you change the region. You can use the J region but the device will stay Universal.

 

[Ravenous]

If the original region was one from the Universal variant (like U, MX, E), and then you change the region to one from another variant (like J from JP variant, or CEV, CEW from EU variant), you will still have to install packages for the original variant.

So if your device is Universal by default, that does not change when you change the region. You can use the J region but the device will stay Universal.

Ah ok, so the region change command just changes the sound signature of the device, and not the actual region. Would I have to reapply the region command change after using any tuning mods/firmware updates/nw changer or does the region signature stay set?

 

[515164]

Ah ok, it just the region change command just changes the sound signature of the device, and not the actual region. Would I have to reapply the region command change after using any tuning mods or does the region signature stay set?

It's actually more like each region belongs to a variant. However, the variant will always be the original one, while the region can be changed.

Once you set a new region, it will stay set until you change it again.

 

[mwhals]

Still saving for a WM1Z, but it will be later in the year before I have the cash in my personal account. If at the time, it is determined there is a new model announced, I will just wait for the new model. If the new model kills battery time like the ZX507, I may still get the WM1Z (maybe at discount).

 

[Duncan]

Then, I transferred whatever FLAC files I had and changed them into ALAC and adjusted the EQ from the Z1 settings (as close as I could) to the Sony App and virtually got the matching soundstage I wanted. It worked out better than expected and now I can keep using my iPhone 11 Pro in BT mode while using my 1A and 1Z for my 1AM2. People are right that you gotta put in the time to really analyze all the sounds and pitches to understand how the instruments can create that synergy you want out of your cans.

Because my CD ripper (dbPoweramp) seems a bit fussy with trying to obtain track listings - every now and then I resort to ALAC via iTunes, as the Apple database seems to be very thorough, I can note two things:

I don’t personally like the tone of the ALAC decoder on the WM players, something not as nice to me as using the FLAC one...

Additionally, even if you’ve ripped to ALAC and are using that with BT from your iPhone into the WM, you’ll see it is transcoded into AAC, so even if it does work for you, to save space, just stick with AAC for BT connections out of your iPhone

 

[nc8000]

So I've noticed that the reason why I was not able to install your Autumn+ tuning to my WM1A(1Z J) was because the WM1Z+JP installer detected my device as U region, even though I set the region to J with the command prompt (scsitool-nwz-v26.exe H: dest_tool set J). Does this mean that even though the command prompt lists my device as J region with the command "scsitool-nwz-v26.exe H: dest_tool get", that my device is actually still U region?

there are 2 regions on a player. One is a hardwired region defined by the label on the side of the player relating to where the player was intended to be sold and this region cant be changed and decides which fw installer you should use. Then there is the soft region which can be changed with the rockbox tool and decides features and sound tunings

 

[Duncan]

@RobertP - whilst I’m patiently waiting for your magician skills on the upcoming Orion10Z - do you think that switching my player back to 1A, flashing stock fw, and then installing 10A will yield me better results than my 1A switched to 1Z with stage 5?

I must learn to not be so impatient lol

 

[nc8000]

Because my CD ripper (dbPoweramp) seems a bit fussy with trying to obtain track listings - every now and then I resort to ALAC via iTunes, as the Apple database seems to be very thorough, I can note two things:

I don’t personally like the tone of the ALAC decoder on the WM players, something not as nice to me as using the FLAC one...

Additionally, even if you’ve ripped to ALAC and are using that with BT from your iPhone into the WM, you’ll see it is transcoded into AAC, so even if it does work for you, to save space, just stick with AAC for BT connections out of your iPhone

yes ALAC is a file codec not a BT codec and iOS only supports SBC and AAC over BT