[Mark Up]

Interesting. Are there any equal to or higher quality 1/4 inch TRS, to dual 3.5 mm (to go in each ear cup) cables out now that work with other headphones (with 3.5 mm input jacks on each ear) that one could try? Any ideas? I am fine with the quality of the stock cables, I just would like to find a shorter version that I could use in addition to that. I bet some other headphone must have these.

 

[thesmokingman]

You mean a balanced cable? There's the Kimber Kable set for starters, then the customs like Moon and the like. Some of these can get up there in costs...
 
Back in college, there were so many hifi shops. I remember walking into the local shop and buying Kimber by the foot and terminating it. It's a lil harder to do that these days it seems.
 
 
http://www.moon-audio.com/silver-dragon-headphone-cable-v3.html
http://www.surfcables.com/products/sony-mdr-z7
http://www.doublehelixcables.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1
http://www.nordost.com/leif/blue-heaven/blue-heaven-headphone-cable.php

 

[Mark Up]

Nope, not balanced, just regular 3.5 mm to dual 3.5 mm like the included non-balanced cable. Just shorter, if it exists.

 

[Whitigir]

Nope, not balanced, just regular 3.5 mm to dual 3.5 mm like the included non-balanced cable. Just shorter, if it exists.

Any places could offer you that cables, no big deal.

Onto the improvements after all mods. Finally, I was able to achieve more trebles and sparkles almost similar to the MDR-SA5000, modded. However, much deeper and stronger sub-bass. The kind that is slamming and sparkling while being so relaxed and musical at the same time with wide soundstage. I am addicted to it!

 

[Mark Up]

I actually talked to the person who runs Audiocadabra.com where I got my solid core copper upgrade cable for my HD650. I plan to sell those as I've found a better open pair, to replace them. He said he'd be able to upgrade that cable to work for these cans. I will have to send my HD650 cable (2 meters) to him - with a Sony MDR-Z7 stock (black unbalanced regular type) cable. How do we get those, direct from Sony? I'd want to keep my existing cable of course for it to have as a longer cable option. In my opinion, there is no better cable than solid core copper. Not too flexible, but it's usable in a stationary stay home situation as it worked for me there.

 

[tradyblix]

  Nope, not balanced, just regular 3.5 mm to dual 3.5 mm like the included non-balanced cable. Just shorter, if it exists.

There is the  Sony MUC-B12SM1 3.5 short cable for the Z7. I have this and the balanced and they're both great cables. I use the balanced whenever I use PHA3 directly and I use the other for direct iPhone or Tube Amp connection, with adapter. 

 

[Mark Up]

Thanks for that info. Since I'm selling my HD650 I'll probably send the Audiocadabra.com cable I got for it to them with a stock Z7 cable from a Sony parts place and have him put that together (screw on ends, etc). It's solid core copper, my favorite kind of wire.

 

[thesmokingman]

Why don't you buy some mono 3.5mm plugs and solder them yourself? It is actually quite easy. It would take 5 minutes. Why do they need the sony cable, to transfer the plugs? You don't need the sony plugs. They're kind of unsafe too, screw your cables in and in the case of an accident and the cable is pulled, damage will occur because the cable is screwed into your cans. Like for ex. when you stand up and unknowing step on the cable or it gets caught on something. I don't usually screw my cables in because it defeats part of the reason of having removable cables.

 

[Mark Up]

That makes sense. I wonder if I can snip existing cable near the Sennheiser plugs and strip away the covering, and wrap the copper around the internals of a 3.5 mm plug. Are those kinds of 3.5 plugs usually solder-only or would some work like that? Either way, given the design of the inputs on the Z7, do you or anyone have a particular plug I should look for (brand, etc.)?

 

[thesmokingman]

Solder only. I couldn't imagine how big they would have to be to not be attached by solder. Too many negatives vs soldered connections. A few post back I posted a pick of my self made/modded cables. I bought these plugs off ebay (pack of 4 at $5), took a week or so to get here. Btw, if you don't solder you can pay a shop to do it. Should take 10 minutes, well under their hourly rate. Also if you're looking for higher end plugs, you can get them from the custom shops. It doesn't have to be mono, can be stereo and in that case ya simply treat l/r poles on each plug as one. Using a stereo plug in mono is to sum l/r together in each side.
 
 
 

 

[Whitigir]

That makes sense. I wonder if I can snip existing cable near the Sennheiser plugs and strip away the covering, and wrap the copper around the internals of a 3.5 mm plug. Are those kinds of 3.5 plugs usually solder-only or would some work like that? Either way, given the design of the inputs on the Z7, do you or anyone have a particular plug I should look for (brand, etc.)?

No, there are the type that you can clamp the wire onto as well. But soldering joints are more common due to smaller size and faster sales. You can also use some small but solid tool to clamp the wire on if the terminal is long enough.

 

[tradyblix]

I've thought about the issue with the screw with the MDR Z7. The problem is that with the normal or kimber cables they have relatively heavy casings on the end, and it's just a 3.5 minijack, so if you don't screw them in they tend to easily pop off, which is more annoying. I usually screw them in (they also tend to come undone fairly easily as well) and I am just careful with the cable. in any case with a 1m cable it is hard to step on it. Since I usually have these plugged into expensive amps on a desk. I have become very careful about not getting up while I'm still plugged in, I always power the amp off and unplug first...

 

[Mark Up]

I noticed a good click when plugging in the existing standard cable before screwing in, it should keep it in place. I'll go standard solder plugs then. I know someone who works with this stuff all day who could easily do that for me. Thanks for the input. Audiocadabra.com 2 meter cable (as I have for my HD650, without the plugs (just exposed ear cup input cable ends). He's responsive to email and might cut a deal for his reduced labor and parts cost. My cable was under $200 shipped. It requires long burn in. Going back to the old (high quality) stock HD650 cable shows subtle improvements. Mainly clarity without harshness. Bass is a bit more extended, and cleaner. Solid core copper is the best.

 

[thesmokingman]

  I've thought about the issue with the screw with the MDR Z7. The problem is that with the normal or kimber cables they have relatively heavy casings on the end, and it's just a 3.5 minijack, so if you don't screw them in they tend to easily pop off, which is more annoying. I usually screw them in (they also tend to come undone fairly easily as well) and I am just careful with the cable. in any case with a 1m cable it is hard to step on it. Since I usually have these plugged into expensive amps on a desk. I have become very careful about not getting up while I'm still plugged in, I always power the amp off and unplug first...

 
 
It should snap or click in tight. It should also take some pressure to pull out. The sockets use compression to snap the plug into place, they are pretty standard. Mine snap firmly with a good click. I've had sockets that had weak compression which I found out during soldering other headphone projects. It's easy enough to remedy.

 

[tradyblix]

It snaps in, but there is no way I'd describe it as "tight'. It's similar to any minijack connector.
 
There is a reason why Sony engineers designed it with a screw in connector in the first place, after all. 
 
I've several times pulled them out when they aren't screwed in. I know, because I tried while worrying about pulling them yanking while screwed in. 
 
Not gonna fall out on it's own accord, but still. YMMV. I am using much bigger, heavier cables than you are probably going to use. 
 
I'd be more worried about the annoyance of losing a channel than I would be damaging the cord.
 
It doesn't seem like you have much choice however, since this screw type isn't commercialy available I don't think.