[xyxqb]

It could be they glued the insides in there, these things really aren't designed to be used for longer than two years at most before the H8 is out and they will expect you to upgrade.

could you elaborate more on this? im curious as im buying it for the long term and given how some modern day products adhere to 'planned obsolescence' this could very well be the case.... does the h7's lack of "modularity" make it a bad long-term purchase?

 

[xyxqb]

could you elaborate more on this? im curious as im buying it for the long term and given how some modern day products adhere to 'planned obsolescence' this could very well be the case.... does the h7's lack of "modularity" make it a bad long-term purchase?

It could be they glued the insides in there, these things really aren't designed to be used for longer than two years at most before the H8 is out and they will expect you to upgrade.

 

[xyxqb]

i am struggling with the head-fi quoting system on mobile... i apologize for ruining this thread

 

[User9876]

i am struggling with the head-fi quoting system on mobile... i apologize for ruining this thread

No problem, I think what @MarkParity is getting at is that for us here on HeadFi we don't tend to keep stuff for longer than the first 10 charges anyway .

If you are more of a "normal" user then I can see product lifespan being a concern though. We really don't know how long the batteries will last in normal use but I wouldn't think it would be more than 3-5 years if we assume that the batteries are considered to be past their best at say 70% of their rated capacity.

Of course you can continue to use the H7 way past the 70% figure though, assuming it doesn't fail in some other way, the batteries won't suddenly fail one day but if you do want the batteries replaced you will either have to DIY it or get a local place to take on the job for you as its rarely worth the cost returning stuff back to China for battery replacement.

 

[stersa]

Bought Shanling H7 and Shanling EC3…

Next week in my home..

Best Regards

Sisco

 

[dbsf]

@Shanling
\Shanling, tell me, at the stage in the photo, what should I do to get it out of the aluminum case?

There might be screws under MQA label. You can press and feel if there is a hole under the label. I do not have the machine, otherwise can take CT images.

If no holes under the label, then just push hard. Should not have any glue.

 

[MarkParity]

There might be screws under MQA label. You can press and feel if there is a hole under the label. I do not have the machine, otherwise can take CT images.

If no holes under the label, then just push hard. Should not have any glue.

I doubt there are screws under the MQA label, Quite a few Headfi owners will just peel the label off in disgust anyway MQA has no purpose to exist in this hobby.

On a serious note if it isn't glued it will be a very tight fit because if not there there is a risk of a rattle which will really upset most owners, I doubt Shanling themselves will reply on how to take it apart so some brave owner is going to have to take one for the team, go on it should be fine.

Perhaps if someone does it and breaks it we could all agree to send a $ each for the replacement one.

 

[Zmey69]

I doubt there are screws under the MQA label, Quite a few Headfi owners will just peel the label off in disgust anyway MQA has no purpose to exist in this hobby.

On a serious note if it isn't glued it will be a very tight fit because if not there there is a risk of a rattle which will really upset most owners, I doubt Shanling themselves will reply on how to take it apart so some brave owner is going to have to take one for the team, go on it should be fine.

Perhaps if someone does it and breaks it we could all agree to send a $ each for the replacement one.

mqa sticker and hires are under the glass there the glass is made. Therefore, there is nothing 99% under it. In addition, the insides move if i press a little. Yes, most likely just a tight fit so that nothing would hang out.

 

[Zmey69]

@Shanling there are problems with your case. he is of course very nice, but he handed the paint to the dac and from the dac to my hands. as a result, my Logitech mx 3s mouse suffered. it's ruined... this is not wiped off by anything. guys, keep in mind the case paints everything it comes into contact with!!!

 

[Zmey69]

But there is also good news. Pasted around the circle H7. I ordered a matte hydrogel film for an 11-inch tablet. With a knife from a vacuum cleaner (och sharp), I cut a little and glued it straight around. There are small bubbles in places, but this is nonsense and it is possible to drag on over time. It turned out almost perfectly.

 

[stersa]

Incredible euphonic, musical, full-bodied sound... that sound that hooks you... The H7 is a marvelous device

best regards

Sisco

 

[Shanling]

@Shanling
Unfortunately, I could not get a branded protective case. Although I didn't really like him either. Still, you can't think of anything better than pasting a protective film over the entire device (hydrogel). Because H7 is planned to live with me for a long time, you need to protect it as much as possible. In this regard, there is a need to partially disassemble it in order to paste it over. At the same time, I wondered what was inside. And then how to change the battery. Shanling, tell me, at the stage in the photo, what should I do to get it out of the aluminum case? Need to push towards the display? I'm afraid of damaging the cables leading to the display. Thanks.

Ok, so briefly how to take H7 apart:

!!Warning!! We do not recommend taking apart our devices. If you facing any issues, reach out to your seller within warranty or directly to us if the device is out of warranty. Proceed with this only at your own risk.

1) Take out both wheels. Simply pull them off, they are hold in place by friction and plastic spacers.

2) There are two brass rings around the volume pots, unscrew them.

3) Simply lift up the front panel.

4) Now the main boards can be pushed out of the aluminium frame. Push carefully from the front (display end), the boards will come out of the rear(RCA connectors end), with the back panel still attached.
!!Warning!! The PCB is connected to the frame with one cable for the antenna, at the rear and on top side. It's a small coaxial connector, disconnect it before pushing the board any further.



Now you have the boards out of the device and can do whatever you want with them.
For the batteries, they are hold in place by lines of glue connecting them to both of the boards and they are soldered in place by two posts. Exchanging them is fairly easy, but you need some basic repair skills.

Does it transmit as well as receive BT?

No, it's only receiver.

@Shanling there are problems with your case. he is of course very nice, but he handed the paint to the dac and from the dac to my hands. as a result, my Logitech mx 3s mouse suffered. it's ruined... this is not wiped off by anything. guys, keep in mind the case paints everything it comes into contact with!!!

You mean the velvety pouch that comes with the H7? I use it with my H7 and even with M9 and haven't seen any problems with pain coming out of it. But I didn't tried to soak it yet.

On a serious note if it isn't glued it will be a very tight fit because if not there there is a risk of a rattle which will really upset most owners, I doubt Shanling themselves will reply on how to take it apart so some brave owner is going to have to take one for the team, go on it should be fine.

Perhaps if someone does it and breaks it we could all agree to send a $ each for the replacement one.

Insides of H7 are not glued, they are just fitted, with some additional foam on the edges.

We always try to help users if they decide to repair their device by themselves. Not sure why you have such a pessimistic view of us.

 

[Kordonrules]

Ok, so briefly how to take H7 apart:

!!Warning!! We do not recommend taking apart our devices. If you facing any issues, reach out to your seller within warranty or directly to us if the device is out of warranty. Proceed with this only at your own risk.

1) Take out both wheels. Simply pull them off, they are hold in place by friction and plastic spacers.

2) There are two brass rings around the volume pots, unscrew them.

3) Simply lift up the front panel.

4) Now the main boards can be pushed out of the aluminium frame. Push carefully from the front (display end), the boards will come out of the rear(RCA connectors end), with the back panel still attached.
!!Warning!! The PCB is connected to the frame with one cable for the antenna, at the rear and on top side. It's a small coaxial connector, disconnect it before pushing the board any further.



Now you have the boards out of the device and can do whatever you want with them.
For the batteries, they are hold in place by lines of glue connecting them to both of the boards and they are soldered in place by two posts. Exchanging them is fairly easy, but you need some basic repair skills.



No, it's only receiver.



You mean the velvety pouch that comes with the H7? I use it with my H7 and even with M9 and haven't seen any problems with pain coming out of it. But I didn't tried to soak it yet.


Insides of H7 are not glued, they are just fitted, with some additional foam on the edges.

We always try to help users if they decide to repair their device by themselves. Not sure why you have such a pessimistic view of us.

You won me over @Shanling on your responses. Kudos.

 

[hooniebear]

@Shanling how much would battery replacement cost if I send it to Shanling after the warranty is expired? I am asking this because I want to use the device while charging (which many say will shorten the battery life)

 

[Shanling]

@Shanling how much would battery replacement cost if I send it to Shanling after the warranty is expired? I am asking this because I want to use the device while charging (which many say will shorten the battery life)

Don't have this calculated yet, but should be fairly cheap.