[Maxx134]

 


man that's sucks- ull have some down time while it gets repaired

Sure does....  That's why I'm hoping Schiit will simply suggest sending me a replacement board (There are 7 of them in Yggy) that I can swap out myself.
I have no problem with opening the unit and changing the bad board (or at least the board containing the bad part).  I think it would be a lot easier than having to send the whole unit back down to the US for repair and be out of a dac that whole time.

The unit is not user friendly to just open up...
It is double encased, and
You can damage the ribbon strip connectors.

NNot that I opened mine to know.
It was shown on another site how someone opened one to mod it.

Anyways, most likely it is the main heavy board that has the transformers on it...
My first unit was shipped upside down and box was dragged about across US in a bumpy fedex truck from CA to NY,
And it was DOA, and my personal belief was that a heavy transformer dislocated.
No worries though as Schiit has great service and sent replacememt quick..

Woops I see you guys have working units...

So my question now is,
What OS are you using,
And have you updated the OS recently?

 

[Jamiee]

I've seen more difficult units to open than Yggy.
I'm used to working on PC's (desktop and laptop) and in the electrical bays of some of our milling equipment at work. Yggy just has a butt-ton of screws to get through in order to open it up. The ribbon cable isn't so fragile, but it's good to be
aware of and be gentile with.
If my problem is transformer related then yes for sure Schiit are the ones to do the repair. If it's a component on one of the daughter boards, and can be fixed by replacing the board; then I'm happy to do the work myself. Just depends on Schiit's policy on such things.

BTW, for those interested - I did find out that the fuse for the 115V Yggy is:
5x20 / 630ma / Fast Blow / 250v

 

[johnjen]

Can you get the (I assume ) Littlfuse type #?
I want to look it up…

Edit it would appear it's either a glass 217 type or a ceramic 216 type fuse

Thanks JJ

 

[NinjaHamster]

"The ribbon cable isn't so fragile, but it's good to be
aware of and be gentile with."

Why, Jewish people aren't good with ribbon cable?

 

[TheAttorney]

....Yggy just has a butt-ton of screws to get through in order to open it up. The ribbon cable isn't so fragile, but it's good to be
aware of and be gentile with.

BTW, for those interested - I did find out that the fuse for the 115V Yggy is:
5x20 / 630ma / Fast Blow / 250v

Thank you Jamiee.
 
And just to build up a better picture of the opening process: Which of the 18,000 (approximately) screws need to be undone in order to get the outer cover off? The ones around the edges only? What do the ones on top and bottom connect to?
 
In most walks of life, fuse replacement can be done by customers, so not obvious why Schiit chose to locate this component "inconveniently" deep inside the unit. Same will apply when they start introducing module upgrades.

 

[johnjen]

In looking at the pics it would appear that all 8 of the screws need to come out from the top panel,
along with 11 on the back panel,
and the ones on the outside edge of the bottom panel, as well as those that join the 2 bottom panels at the 'J' junction where the top mates up to the bottom panel

I don't know how many of these bottom screws there are but all the case screws are the same so if you're eyeing a different screw size it probably should be left alone.

This is similar to the Mojo amp only bigger.

Be careful of the back panel screws as they are seated in plastic and can be 'stripped' very easily.

Manual dexterity in the form of knowing how to start the small screws so as to NOT cross thread them is advised.
Also some previous experience in dealing with how to take complicated assemblies apart is going to come in quite handy as you need to pay attention to the ribbon cable that runs from the front panel to the rest of the unit.

And on this size of chasis, alignment of the inner case and outer case can be 'tricky' until you figure the trick of which screws to start 1st so as to help align everything back up.

Those tiny (4-40?) screws can be mangled all to easily so take your time and don't rush it.

JJ

 

[GreenLeo]

I've seen more difficult units to open than Yggy.
I'm used to working on PC's (desktop and laptop) and in the electrical bays of some of our milling equipment at work. Yggy just has a butt-ton of screws to get through in order to open it up. The ribbon cable isn't so fragile, but it's good to be
aware of and be gentile with.
If my problem is transformer related then yes for sure Schiit are the ones to do the repair. If it's a component on one of the daughter boards, and can be fixed by replacing the board; then I'm happy to do the work myself. Just depends on Schiit's policy on such things.

BTW, for those interested - I did find out that the fuse for the 115V Yggy is:
5x20 / 630ma / Fast Blow / 250v

Why is it 250 rated?

 

[magiccabbage]

   
Or you can use KS on foobar. Depend on the setup, can be a bit better.
 
http://www.foobar2000.org/components/view/foo_out_ks

Just played some Hi res music there through the yggy - it is recognizing the file type now, thanks for your help. 
 
By the way im 72 hours into burn in and my yggy sounds amazing. 

 

[Jamiee]

  Thank you Jamiee.
 
And just to build up a better picture of the opening process: Which of the 18,000 (approximately) screws need to be undone in order to get the outer cover off? The ones around the edges only? What do the ones on top and bottom connect to?
 
In most walks of life, fuse replacement can be done by customers, so not obvious why Schiit chose to locate this component "inconveniently" deep inside the unit. Same will apply when they start introducing module upgrades.

BACK: All screws on the back panel (including a nut around the BNC jack) need to come off.  As mentioned they screw into plastic so don't over-tighten when putting the Yggy back together.
 
BOTTOM: All outer edge screws come off (just the outer edge ones) the 2nd row screws as well as the ones towards the middle of the bottom plate hold the main board in place. DO NOT remove these.  The screws running along the bottom front that holds the bottom portion of the front bezel / top cover in place) need to come off.
 
TOP: All screws on the top cover need to come off.
 
 
 
 
CAUTION: 
 
- There is a ribbon cable that attaches from the main board / bottom plate assembly to the front panel.  Use caution when separating the two assemblies as you will need to carefully detach the cable (I recommend having Yggy oriented upside down when doing this) There's about 1.5" - 2.0" of slack in the cable.
 
- The front / top plate need to come off first - then you can slide out the bottom plate (towards the front) . To assemble do the reverse.
 
- Yggy is deceivingly heavy.  be sure to work on a stable platform (something cushioned though to prevent any scratch marks). and make sure to be grounded so as to not damage any of the electronics inside.  FYI: The majority of Yggy's weight is on the bottom plate.
 
- Power off Yggy for at least an hour before attempting any work on it.  This will allow any residual capacitance to drain out and save you from getting zapped!
 
- TAKE YOUR TIME - Seriously, this isn't a race...  Yggy has a lot of parts in it that can be broken easily if care isn't taken.

 

[Jamiee]

Why is it 250 rated?

Haven't met any 5x20mm fuse in my audio travels lately that wasn't 250V rated.

 

[US Blues]

BTW, for those interested - I did find out that the fuse for the 115V Yggy is:
5x20 / 630ma / Fast Blow / 250v

 
Thanks for the fuse info, and for the instructions for opening the Yggy.

 

[GreenLeo]

Thanks.  I would refrain myself from changing the fuse then.

 

[TheAttorney]

Haven't met any 5x20mm fuse in my audio travels lately that wasn't 250V rated.

+1. It's the current and speed ratings that really matter. 250v rating will be suitable for all countries under 250v.
 
The remaining question (probably not for Jamiee) is whether the 230v Yggy will have the same fuse rating as the 115v version?
The obvious choice would be to halve the fuse current rating for the 230v Yggy, but some manufacturers choose exactly the same fuse for all voltage variants. I guess to keep it simple they pick an average "one size fits all" rating. It's not an exact science, the designer has to balance safety versus premature failures, for example with switch-on rush.

 

[Jamiee]

Yeah the only way to know for sure will be to open the Yggy and check the fuse rating.
I know my Focal Solo 6BE studio monitors which came from England had a different fuse rating for 230v than I needed for 115V operation here in Canada. Nice thing is Focal reported the required ratings for both... so I was able to order the proper fuse ahead of time.

BTW, those looking to swap out the fuse in their Yggy will want to break out their multimeter to check for proper orientation of the fuse.
I know some don't believe in fuse direction but most audio fuses really do seem to have an audible direction to them and have some way of visually determining the direction on them.

 

[RadioWonder737]

This guy is crazy!!! He is suggesting "By-Passing" the main fuse!!! Unbelievable!!! 

 
 
 
http://www.tweakaudio.com/EVS-2/Schiit_mod.html