[Jamiee]

let me put it this way....
Two years ago when I first tried an audio grade fuse (Hi-Fi Tuning Supreme) in my PS Audio PerfictWave Power Plant 5...
 
(A) I was surprised by the improvement in SQ  (cleaner, livelier, more up-front (forward) image)
(B) I couldn't figure out what the arrow marking on the fuse body was for.  I mean surely fuses aren't directional, right? .... (or so I thought).
 
After a few days I decided to swap the fuse around and to my utter shock I heard an immediate difference.
So much so that I jumped online and started searching Google for the topic of directional fuses.  I had never heard of or even contemplated that such a thing existed - but now that I've heard it, I'm a believer.
 
The reason to use a volt meter is indeed to determine the live end of the fuse holder.
Most fuses have at least some sort of way of determining the correct direction of current flow through the fuse.
It could be an arrow marking like on the Hi-Fi Supreme fuse, or as simple as the direction of the lettering along the fuse body.
 
For example:  In the case of FURUTECH fuses - The "F" in Furutech denotes the end of the fuse that should go into the live end of the fuse holder.
 
This makes it easy to determine the correct fuse orientation every time - takes the guess work out of it. 
 
 
Trust me, I used to think a lot of this stuff was audio-fool quackery too.  It wasn't until I really started listening that I could actually hear some of these changes happening.
The fact that my system has become more resolved through the years hasn't hurt either.
 
I don't know the science behind most of it, but I do know my system very well and I trust my hearing.

 

[mikoss]

I also think I see where people might think the fuse is limiting current flow, but that isn't true either. There are much smaller "pathways" for the electricity to flow through within the equipment... Printed circuit boards, wires, solder joints, transformer windings, etc. Everything is sized for how much current will be flowing through, including the fuse. Upsizing the fuse to a higher current rating will simply affect how much current can flow through in the event of a fault, such as a wiring short circuit. This is an abnormal situation where you would want the fuse to be sized in accordance with the components downstream.

The fuse is merely a wire that melts if a certain amount of current flows for a certain amount of time.

If you still believe the fuse is limiting the amount of energy available to the Yggy, I suggest this: set up a logging voltmeter across the fuse. You should never see any voltage being dropped across it. You could also set up the logging voltmeter on the load side of the fuse. It should remain stable at nominal voltage from the supply (eg. 120V).

I want to know how the tweak fuses work myself. I'm an electrician and it makes no sense at all.

 

[Eee Pee]

It makes zero sense.

What about the fuses or circuit breakers in your house or building? They're messing it all up! Nevermind the all the wire inside and out.

Well designed power supplies and that bank of capacitors, etc… that holds power in reserve, for some reason…

 

[Jamiee]

I believe Dave Wilson said that he can hear the total build up of solder in his speakers.
Pretty sure he's actually performed solder listening tests...  Go figure!
 
Funny thing is... I don't doubt him

  
 
 
Yes Yggy is darn good as she is. (Just wish mine was working 

)
Swapping fuses etc. is mainly for the crazy among us that are willing to take things just that little bit further to eek out an ounce of improved sound quality.

 

[Wynnytsky]

Jamiee how about trying your CD player or TV's SPDIF outs?
Doesn't sound like a driver issue.

Assuming Yggy is short for Yggdrasil -- what is the 2nd Y supposed to be?

I've only got a couple days of research in this DAC and desperately wanted to pull the trigger this weekend.  My main reservation is that almost none of the positive reviews even mention which input they're using.  They're drawing strong blanket conclusions on what's better and worse without any consideration for the USB transport.  How are these people even qualified to judge DACs?

One evangelist character goes Crazy Eddy on the Yggy w/o any mention of inputs, until the very end where he discloses having tried it with the Off Ramp 5 and heard no improvement, so he returned to the USB input for good.  That statement was huge for me only because Off Ramp is supposed to be about as good as they get.

But then I read another review where a guy concludes the Yggy was spanked by his entry level MSB.  Then in the comments [almost in passing] he mentions that the Hydra-Z changed his results, without even bothering to see what it did for his MSB, or even mentioning which cable&input the Hydra-Z was on.

Both reviewers had little interest in the non-USB inputs, and what they did have to say completely contradicted each other.

I need to see a reviewer compare Yggy to 2 other DACs (price competitive PLEASE).
I'd like to see the analysis done via USB and repeated via AES through a single USB interface (ex: PUC2, U12, Hydra-Z, OffRamp, etc).

If you reading this Schiit, RB2013 is all-in with R2R and he'll review the schiit out of your unit if you send him one (once the hibernation issue is put to bed <= kinda funny when I write it)

Sucks cause I really wanted to be impulsive this weekend.

BTW:
People use the term USB Interface a lot and today I read a guy refer to it as a "interface / transport".  I always used the term USB Transport hoping it would catch on, but my friends are giving me blank stares.  CD players are CD Transports (input CD, output synch digital), so why not USB Transport (input USB, output synch digital)

 

[johnjen]

snip
If you still believe the fuse is limiting the amount of energy available to the Yggy, I suggest this: set up a logging voltmeter across the fuse. You should never see any voltage being dropped across it. You could also set up the logging voltmeter on the load side of the fuse. It should remain stable at nominal voltage from the supply (eg. 120V).

I want to know how the tweak fuses work myself. I'm an electrician and it makes no sense at all.

It isn't the voltage that is important, but the current flow into and thru the diode bridge.
It's the current flow thru the fuse that heats it up, even if it's only a slight amount.
It's the current flow that is ever so slightly limited.

And trying to measure curent flow, dynamically, with music playing and then be able to interpret the results is a mighty tall order.

And as I stated, with our audio systems as they are, we are able to hear very high resolution, so is it any surprise that we actually can hear small seeming insignificant influences?

But again, the ONLY true test is to find out for yourself if these changes make any differences, or not.
Some will venture down this road and directly experience for themselves, while others won't.

And relying strictly upon an intellectual approach is not anywhere near the same as direct personal experience.

And we certainly won't 'settle' this age old debate via an intellectual discourse, but hopefully some will be motivated enough to actually find out for themselves.

JJ

 

[US Blues]

  My main reservation is that almost none of the positive reviews even mention which input they're using.  

 
Yggy sounds like real music (the second "y" is part of the nickname- no hidden treasure). I use an Oppo BDP-93 disc transport and play rebook CD's, commercial DVD-A's & BluRay discs, and home -burned DVD-A's for Hi Res files from HDTracks. The Oppo feeds Yggy via the 75 Ohm coaxial input, via an "audiophile" coax cable.  As I said it sounds like music, and makes me very happy.

 

[wink]

Quote:johnjen

 It isn't the voltage that is important, but the current flow into and thru the diode bridge.
It's the current flow thru the fuse that heats it up, even if it's only a slight amount.
It's the current flow that is ever so slightly limited.

You do realise, of course, as stated before that the capacitors in the power supply charge up and supply more than enough DC current to the equipment.
 
Even if the equipment is run at full tilt, the power supply should supply ALL the current needed to do the job.
 
If the power supply cannot do this, it is a sign of bad design.

 

[johnjen]

You do realise, of course, as stated before that the capacitors in the power supply charge up and supply more than enough DC current to the equipment.

Even if the equipment is run at full tilt, the power supply should supply ALL the current needed to do the job.

If the power supply cannot do this, it is a sign of bad design.

Yes… I do.

However, in my experience it's never as simple as we like to think of it.

JJ

 

[ignaceii]

Where rhe hell can I write a new post. .?
You can see all the new posts. But a BUTTON to click saying ADD NEW POST, nothing. What kind of user interface is this ?
Sorry to screw up your thread, but only reply works to get sonething written.

Ignace
Belgium.

Thks for the advise.

 

[i019791]

Where rhe hell can I write a new post. .?
You can see all the new posts. But a BUTTON to click saying ADD NEW POST, nothing. What kind of user interface is this ?
Sorry to screw up your thread, but only reply works to get sonething written.

Ignace
Belgium.

Thks for the advise.

I think that your ADD NEW POST button is here the REPLY button
If you need to really reply to a specific post, use the QUOTE button

 

[ignaceii]

So a post as such does not exist. It is a reply to a quote in a thread.
Very confusing but ok.
But what I want to do, is ask a question regarding receivers that can be used with the pmc speakers 24.
I need to write a thread I guess then.
Ok , nowhere on th forum panel I see Add or Write a new thread.

Searching , ok... But adding a new one.

Thanks for replying , much obliged...

Ignace

 

[Jamiee]

  Jamiee how about trying your CD player or TV's SPDIF outs?
Doesn't sound like a driver issue.

Assuming Yggy is short for Yggdrasil -- what is the 2nd Y supposed to be?
 

 
I did try a SB Touch into the Yggy as well - It didn't work.
Inputs I've tried: COAX, AES/EBU, & USB.  So yeah, there's something definitely wrong with my unit.
 
I'm in contact with Schiit now, so we'll see what happens....
 
 
As mentioned earlier, "Yggy" is just the nickname given to the Yggdrasil 

 

[Wynnytsky]

 
As mentioned earlier, "Yggy" is just the nickname given to the Yggdrasil 

 
"hello siri google Yggy"
after a 30sec adver you'll get an interesting account on how Yggy was made and it's origins
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zR6ROjoOX0
 
Googling Yggdrasil suggests much of development did not take place in Valencia, CA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YA38ffX1AHo
 
Here's a tip.  Use these tracks to seriously cut down on Yggy's warm up time.
(I know this because they sounded exactly the same 6hrs later)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvMXVHVr72A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFg6amMLd-o
 
 
Seriously it would be nice if Schiit released a video showcasing their statement DAC's internals/construction.
(once back orders are under control)

 

[AudioBear]

So a post as such does not exist. It is a reply to a quote in a thread.
Very confusing but ok.
But what I want to do, is ask a question regarding receivers that can be used with the pmc speakers 24.
I need to write a thread I guess then.
Ok , nowhere on th forum panel I see Add or Write a new thread.

Searching , ok... But adding a new one.

Thanks for replying , much obliged...

Ignace

On my browser the start a new thread is next to the reply button and that's all i see.  There is one thing you can do if you want to stay in the same thread.  Just put a title in bold at the top of your reply.  In your case maybe something like  Any reports of PMC Speakers 24 with Yggy?  That would certainly make clear you are introducing a new question.  i agree the software is a little odd about this. Or is it us that is odd in the way we use the software?  Maybe it was intended for 50 or even 500 page threads on the same topic.