[artur9]

I think this part of the spec is relevant but I don't know how to interpret:
Gain: 22 (27dB)
Input Sensitivity: AKA Rated Output (Vrms)/Rated Gain. Or, 28V/22. You do the math.

 

[JohnnyCanuck]

It means that it takes 28V/22 or 1.27 V at the input to drive the amplifier to its rated output.

JC

 

[dave615]

It means that it takes 28V/22 or 1.27 V at the input to drive the amplifier to its rated output.

JC

The output of my CD player is 2v, which is pretty normal. My speakers are not known for being hard to drive...the specs for them are on this page:

http://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/monitor-audio-silver-10/?page=2

Thanks, David

 

[DrJam]

Hey everyone - I just got a Vidar a few days ago and have a question, thought I might ask here. I emailed Schiit tech support 5 or 6 days ago and have not had a response. Maybe it's a stupid question and that's why they didn't answer.

My system is Onkyo DX 7555 CD player, Freya, Vidar, Monitor Audio Silver 10 (4 ohm, 90 dB sens.)

At a fairly loud listening level (I don't have a dB meter), the volume knob on the Freya is about the 4 or 5 o' clock position. It's almost out of headroom on the volume knob. This is in tube stage with NOS Sylvania and Tung Sol tubes. I was kind of expecting more headroom on the volume with a preamp and amp of the same maker. The source is an Onkyo DX 7555 - the line output of the Onkyo is 2v. I guess what I am trying to say is I was expecting a fairly loud volume to be in the 2 o clock area on the volume, not 4 or 5 o clock. Is it because of the source? Here are the specs on the CD player:

Description: Single-box, fixed-output CD player with remote control. Formats played: CD, MP3 CD, CD-R/RW. D/A conversion: 24-bit/192kHz with switchable "Slow" and "Sharp" reconstruction filters. Analog outputs: 1 pair (RCA). Digital outputs: coaxial S/PDIF, TosLink. Headphone jack with volume control. Four-mode dimmer. Frequency range: 2Hz–20kHz. Signal/noise: 111dB. Dynamic range: 100dB. THD: 0.0027%. Maximum output level: 2.0V RMS. Output impedance: 470 ohms. Power consumption: 3W.
Read more at https://www.stereophile.com/content/onkyo-dx-7555-cd-player-specifications#4iIi3RJzGIb1wyBK.99

Should I be concerned about the lack of headroom? Is it because of the source or the speakers? There isn't anything unusual about the system.

Thanks, David

I have Freya+Vidar and Monitor Audio Sliver 8. Freya being fed by Oppo-105D balanced outs and I also have a sub being fed from the RCA outs of the Freya. Sub xover set to 80 Hz and yes, I'm probably running it a little hot.

The cable box feeds the Oppo via HDMI. This signal is very low amplitude, and to get any real volume while watching TV I have to use tube mode. I can hear it in JFET or passive, but with everything maxed out it's still not too loud.
Now, with other sources that are higher amplitude I don't have any problem getting enough volume. From foobar2000 on my PC, I can feed the Oppo via DLNA or Coax.
- Song: Robert Plant - Little by Little
- Coax from the PC to Oppo
- Oppo Volume Maxed out
- With Freya in JFET mode and volume at about 4 o'clock (5 o'clock is max) I was regularly hitting 110 dB on the Radio Shack meter.

Obviously if I switched to tube mode I would have probably blown something, so I have quite a bit of headroom over in tube mode, and in this case I would argue that 110 dB and not maxed in JFET mode means I still have some headroom there as well.

 

[dave615]

I have Freya+Vidar and Monitor Audio Sliver 8. Freya being fed by Oppo-105D balanced outs and I also have a sub being fed from the RCA outs of the Freya. Sub xover set to 80 Hz and yes, I'm probably running it a little hot.

The cable box feeds the Oppo via HDMI. This signal is very low amplitude, and to get any real volume while watching TV I have to use tube mode. I can hear it in JFET or passive, but with everything maxed out it's still not too loud.
Now, with other sources that are higher amplitude I don't have any problem getting enough volume. From foobar2000 on my PC, I can feed the Oppo via DLNA or Coax.
- Song: Robert Plant - Little by Little
- Coax from the PC to Oppo
- Oppo Volume Maxed out
- With Freya in JFET mode and volume at about 4 o'clock (5 o'clock is max) I was regularly hitting 110 dB on the Radio Shack meter.

Obviously if I switched to tube mode I would have probably blown something, so I have quite a bit of headroom over in tube mode, and in this case I would argue that 110 dB and not maxed in JFET mode means I still have some headroom there as well.

When you are using an amp and preamp of the same manufacturer, it seems like there should never be a problem getting enough volume....there shouldn't be any gain issues.

 

[DrJam]

When you are using an amp and preamp of the same manufacturer, it seems like there should never be a problem getting enough volume....there shouldn't be any gain issues.

Yeah, maybe, otherwise you can have some problems with lower-amplitude sources. In my system I previously used a home receiver and a 2-channel integrated amp. So, those were effectively an amp and preamp of the same manufacturer and I was able to get enough volume in each case. Personally I do like some gain in a preamp which is one of the reasons I bought the Freya, although I wish the JFET stage had some gain as well.

 

[unsane69]

Bit late with answers to this, but here goes:

I would get new speakers before a new DAC. DAC differences are really hard to hear. Unless you find your current DAC fatiguing, that's an easy one.

Well... Listening fatigue was part of my reasoning.

Hey @unsane69, folks! hope all is well!

I agree with artur9... even though I do NOT have a multi thousand dollar DAC, I do believe it might make a difference only if your existing one is REALLY really crappy...

New speakers would probably the best way to hear a big difference..

cheers!

Also, my speakers are pretty good, all things considered; an upgrade could easily cost me €2000-3000

A Modi MB has been added some weeks ago and, well... wow. Just wow. It made a boatload of difference. Coming from the D/S dac in my cd-player (a Burr-Brown btw, not bad per se; but yeah I did get fatigued by it easily). I'll refrain from Night/Day, veil lifting and similar phoolery, but yeah. Better soundstage, better instrument separation and cleaner treble are the standouts here. At €300. And I haven't had listening fatigue from digital sources since adding it. Thanx Schiit.

I tried the new Tung-Sol 6N7S in the Saga, it was awful the first few hours, but after a week I still didn't feel it surpassed the russian stock tube. Bought a '60s black base RCA and that is much, much better. I've stocked up on those

 

[D2Girls]

It’s been a long and arduous journey, but I’m finally close to my end game. I’ve been lusting after a pair of JBL 4367 for a very very long time! Nearly as soon as I got into this hobby in fact.

The only logical conclusion to go from here is higher up the JBL Synthesis line, perhaps to the Everest series, or possibly towards the Pro series, like the M2.

I plan to be replacing the Yggdrasil in my system next year, so pretty soon I’ll be gone (whoosh!) from this thread forever! Unless I get a Sol, or another Schiit dac. We will have to see. Because who would have believed I’d have attained my dream speakers in just a year and a half?

 

[Svatopluk]

If you don't mind my asking. What do you plan on using to replace the Yggdrasil?

 

[theveterans]

I’m thinking of Denafrips Terminator being Yggdrasil A2 replacement

 

[D2Girls]

If you don't mind my asking. What do you plan on using to replace the Yggdrasil?

Briscati m1

 

[BagelJoe]

Looking for some input for the two channel rig. I'm running a pair of Aerial 10T's, great speaker, with Krell amp and Audio Research Ref 3 pre amp. Considering a REL 212SE sub woofer. Anyone using a sub to great success? I know there can be crossover issues and the melding of the two speaker variables themselves.

Just looking for feedback and your thoughts.

Thanks

Joe

 

[US Blues]

Looking for some input for the two channel rig. I'm running a pair of Aerial 10T's, great speaker, with Krell amp and Audio Research Ref 3 pre amp. Considering a REL 212SE sub woofer. Anyone using a sub to great success? I know there can be crossover issues and the melding of the two speaker variables themselves.

Just looking for feedback and your thoughts.

Thanks

Joe

I've got 2 subs, one per channel. I will never not have subs in my system, what they provide is a solid sonic foundation that benefits most every type of music (solo piccolo tends not to benefit).

REL subs have a great reputation for sonics and for ease of "melding" into an existing system.

 

[Alcophone]

Looking for some input for the two channel rig. I'm running a pair of Aerial 10T's, great speaker, with Krell amp and Audio Research Ref 3 pre amp. Considering a REL 212SE sub woofer. Anyone using a sub to great success? I know there can be crossover issues and the melding of the two speaker variables themselves.

Just looking for feedback and your thoughts.

Thanks

Joe

I'm using a Rythmik Audio F12G (sealed, servo driven, 12" front firing) and I love it. My speakers have enough low end to not immediately notice when the sub isn't on (depending on the content), but eventually you will. 14 Hz at -2 dB means I have my frequency spectrum covered. I'm curious to try two subs, but this single 12 incher is plenty for my medium sized living room.
I use Audioquest RCA splitters to feed a full range signal into both my power amp and the sub. The sub has plenty of options for integration, like crossover frequency, slope, a rumble filter, a phase dial with many levels, etc. I used a dB meter at my main listening position, played a 50 Hz sine wave, and set the phase dial to where the meter showed the highest reading. It's incredible how different the bass volume can be depending on the listening position.
So basically I fill in the low end based on what the mains support. It also has a high pass filter that is fixed at 80 Hz (I think), allowing the power amp and speakers to work less hard, but I wasn't happy with the sound quality when I tried that. Similar to REL subs it also has a high power input (to feed it from the power amp), but the bass seemed boomy to me when I tried that. Granted, I didn't try hard to adjust the levels.

 

[artur9]

Considering a REL 212SE sub woofer. Anyone using a sub to great success?

I had an elaborate system I haven't had time to set up again (recent move).
Vienna Acoustics Haydns with TBI Magellan subs, one for each channel, each passive sub with its own Episode amplifier.
A preamp that does the crossover and time delay, Lyngdorf DPA-1. A speaker management device (Xilica XP3060) for PEQ and to blend in a 3rd sub to address room mode issues.

Once I got everything blended in properly, omg, it was a heavenly sound. My Gumby really liked playing with its friends

I also have a REL Habitat connected wirelessly to a soundbar. That's one impressive piece of kit!


My subs are/were: Mordaunt Short, Outlaw M8, TBI Magellan, SVS sb1000, REL Habitat. The Mordaunt Short died, can't recommend it. The outlaw is fine for movies not very good for music (too tubby), the Magellan are precise and measure deeper than they should, the sb1000 is crazy powerful, the Habitat is musical and good for domestic tranquility.