Hi guys, although it's a sale post, it's sorta MJ2 specific, so I figured I leave a link here. They are unused and brand new and since unfortunately I had to move on from the MJ2 - these might come in handy for someone else:
Been running a set of Brimar '57 Footscray CV4033 square getter and i cant get enough of these. The footscray round/halo getters are also magnificent but the square getters has just enough sparkle and bass emphasis to take the crown. Its a really tough call to decide between the two footscrays and the rft foil getters. I think all three are excellent choices.
Been running a set of Brimar '57 Footscray CV4033 square getter and i cant get enough of these. The footscray round/halo getters are also magnificent but the square getters has just enough sparkle and bass emphasis to take the crown. Its a really tough call to decide between the two footscrays and the rft foil getters. I think all three are excellent choices.
I’m currently running a set of RCA 12at7’s, but that’s only temporarily till I do my second stage mods. At present caps are still burning in, but I have noticed a few things. Right now, my system is very dynamic and punchy, with a bass that is very slightly overemphasized, but deep and satisfying. Where I seem to need some tailoring is in the mids, I like my female vocals to be a little on the lush side. My Verite’s already are a bit recessed there, so I’m going to have to compensate a little. The polypropylene caps I used for bypassing the 680 uF and 1000 uF are partly to blame, they were cheapies bought to finish the job when I ran low on funds. Question is do I bypass them or replace them? Replacement would be-expensive and harder, best I can tell. If I just add a minimal value copper cap to each, would that be enough?
I'm late to this game and just got a MJ2. I was looking for a high powered tube balanced headphone amp on the more reasonable price scale. I'm surprised to see the MJ2 has not lost a lot of value - hopefully it'll stay that way when I decide to upgrade. But there isn't a lot of choices. I'm using a yggy hence the "need" for balanced.
I wanted to leave some quick impressions. In comparison. I'm using a pair of Electro-Harmonix 6922 tubes on low gain and balanced.
MT604 -> MJ2: increase in details, refinement (smoother), more space, better imaging, but still a nice engaging tuby midrange. More balanced sound (bottom end and top end) The MT604 sometimes didn't sound as extended in the top end. But for $170 MSRP I have nothing to complain about - it is a great livable tube hybrid balanced amp with gobs of power.
MJ2 -> Burson 3xp: increase in details, space and imaging. This amp has a special way of making the headphones disappear and the music to float. It's clean, but not dry or analytical. Soundstage sits further back and little more dynamic.
I ended up selling the Burson as I'm looking for that tuby midrange (colored, warmer, ephuoric, rich) for vocals. The MJ2 just suits me better.
One day I'd like to try a pure tube headphone amp (I'm thinking bottlehead crack, with the right headphones). But for now I'm happy with the MJ2 - it was power, tuby sound, but still retains more than enough details and space to be surprising.
Unfortunately I don't have the skills to mod it. And I'm not a huge tube roller - but I'll try a few different tubes when I can find a good deal.
Thanks all for those in this thread that helped me get here.
Tube suggestions for you, @hk29, if you want to stay with the ‘6922-type’ tube: Amperex PQ 6922, Amperex PQ 7308, Philips BEL E88CC, Sylvania (green print) 6922, Tungsram E88CC. I ‘roll’ / use these in a variety of h/p/a.
The tubes that I mentioned are very clear with excellent transients and ambience rendition. You might start with the Philips BEL. For a more ‘lush’ sound, you can go with RCA 6922 or RCA E88CC (not on my list). Note that there is a limit on the addition of “tubeness” to the Mjolnir sound since the tubes are in the driver stage while the output stage is solid-state.
Hey HK29!
Jonathan has a whole lot more experience tube rolling than most, his recomendations on 6DJ8's would be a great starting point. Other options to consider would be converting to a 12AT7 type tube, and shopping in that arena. I'm into tube rolling right now, and 12A's are a bit cheaper to collect. You would need a pair of adapters 6DJ8>12A*7, look on the Tubemonger site (I think direct links are against rules). But if you like the sound of the EH's, try one or two different, and if they do nothing for you, your golden!
Thank you for the comment! If you need a ‘treasure trove’ of tube experience, at the top of my list are @bcowen and @Wes S. In biblical terms, I am not worthy to change the adapters on their headphone amplifiers….
Does anyone else's Mjolnir 2 make occasional creaking/popping (I mean the unit itself, not in the audio chain). If I push town on the top of the unit it will make a similar clicking sound, so I'm pretty sure it's just a seam that moves slightly with the expansion/contraction of warmup and cooldown. Drove me crazy trying to pinpoint it for awhile, now it doesn't bother me. Just curious.
I haven't heard that, but have had other equipment that did similar. I liken it to older cars that would tick and creak for 10 or so min after shutting off.
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that I should first start?
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